Mark Shaw

I run Lester brand & Universal brand BW tires with good overall performance on my 29 and 13 buicks. My 31 has Firestone brand WW tires sold by Coker that have not performed as well.

Many of you know Garyl Turley from Wichita, KS. He is a past national HCCA president and an originator of the REO 1 & 2 Cylinder Registry. His car barn was burglarized a few days ago. They took his red open trailer which was loaded with swap meet parts that he had down at Chickasha last fall. There was an unrestored complete 1916 Model T engine, a power glide transmission, and an early rear & front end off of ??? among other things on the trailer. They took a considerable amount of brass. Included were a newly restored sets of Solar No. 41 and Solar 41A sidelights. One set had magnifier lenses. A repo set of brass E & J side & taillights for his 1912 Model T; a brass Corcoran tail light off of his 1909 2-cylinder REO; ALL his inventory of repo Vintique motometers, radiator caps, mirrors, hubcaps, etc. that he took to swap meets (4 large blue plastic storage boxes); all the brass (manganese bronze) castings he had such as Neverout taillight brackets, castings for early 1 cylinder Cadillac and 1 & 2 cylinder REO's (pedals, seat brackets, body irons for the top, etc.), and early Model T's (1912 rear fender irons, rear frame cast brackets). Approx. 3 dozen head, side & tail lights (1920's on back) he had purchased from the Jasper Wigglesworth collection. Plus his modern tools, 2 air compressors, paint guns, buffers, and floor jack. If you see or hear of anything such as this "surfacing", please call Garyl or Linda at (316) 832-0994. Posted by Verne Shirk for Garyl. (For those of you who don't know him he was left blind after an antique car accident in Y2K.) I know this isn't directly Buick related but it is brass era. You never know where this stuff may show up. He would appreciate it if you could keep an eye out for any suspicious activity such as people trying to sell a large amount of Vintique part, brass lights, etc. Thanks! Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Let's catch this thief!

Many of you know Garyl Turley from Wichita, KS. He is a past national HCCA president and an originator of the REO 1 & 2 Cylinder Registry. His car barn was burglarized a few days ago. They took his red open trailer which was loaded with swap meet parts that he had down at Chickasha last fall. There was an unrestored complete 1916 Model T engine, a power glide transmission, and an early rear & front end off of ??? among other things on the trailer. They took a considerable amount of brass. Included were a newly restored sets of Solar No. 41 and Solar 41A sidelights. One set had magnifier lenses. A repo set of brass E & J side & taillights for his 1912 Model T; a brass Corcoran tail light off of his 1909 2-cylinder REO; ALL his inventory of repo Vintique motometers, radiator caps, mirrors, hubcaps, etc. that he took to swap meets (4 large blue plastic storage boxes); all the brass (manganese bronze) castings he had such as Neverout taillight brackets, castings for early 1 cylinder Cadillac and 1 & 2 cylinder REO's (pedals, seat brackets, body irons for the top, etc.), and early Model T's (1912 rear fender irons, rear frame cast brackets). Approx. 3 dozen head, side & tail lights (1920's on back) he had purchased from the Jasper Wigglesworth collection. Plus his modern tools, 2 air compressors, paint guns, buffers, and floor jack. If you see or hear of anything such as this "surfacing", please call Garyl or Linda at (316) 832-0994. Posted by Verne Shirk for Garyl. (For those of you who don't know him he was left blind after an antique car accident in Y2K.) You never know where this stuff may show up. He would appreciate it if you could keep an eye out for any suspicious activity such as people trying to sell a large amount of Vintique part, brass lights, etc. Thanks! Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Let's catch the thief who tries to sell this stuff!

You may not know Garyl Turley from Wichita, KS., but he is a past national HCCA president and an originator of the REO 1 & 2 Cylinder Registry. His car barn was burglarized a few days ago. They took his red open trailer which was loaded with swap meet parts that he had down at Chickasha last fall. There was an unrestored complete 1916 Model T engine, a power glide transmission, and an early rear & front end off of ??? among other things on the trailer. They took a considerable amount of brass. Included were a newly restored sets of Solar No. 41 and Solar 41A sidelights. One set had magnifier lenses. A repo set of brass E & J side & taillights for his 1912 Model T; a brass Corcoran tail light off of his 1909 2-cylinder REO; ALL his inventory of repo Vintique motometers, radiator caps, mirrors, hubcaps, etc. that he took to swap meets (4 large blue plastic storage boxes); all the brass (manganese bronze) castings he had such as Neverout taillight brackets, castings for early 1 cylinder Cadillac and 1 & 2 cylinder REO's (pedals, seat brackets, body irons for the top, etc.), and early Model T's (1912 rear fender irons, rear frame cast brackets). Approx. 3 dozen head, side & tail lights (1920's on back) he had purchased from the Jasper Wigglesworth collection. Plus his modern tools, 2 air compressors, paint guns, buffers, and floor jack. If you see or hear of anything such as this "surfacing", please call Garyl or Linda at (316) 832-0994. Posted by Verne Shirk for Garyl. (For those of you who don't know him he was left blind after an antique car accident in Y2K.) I know this isn't directly Buick related but it is brass era. You never know where this stuff may show up. He would appreciate it if you could keep an eye out for any suspicious activity such as people trying to sell a large amount of Vintique part, brass lights, etc. Thanks! Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Let's not let the thief sell that powerglide transmission on this site without getting caught!

Sounds like you need a new carb, but for now you can try Viton gasket material or you might use super glue until you find another carb. Either one is compatable with gasoline.

My first wood spoke prep job (1929 Buick) involved lots of scraping, a little sanding and lots and lots of picking paint out of cracks with dental tools. It was a long painstaking process, but it did work well to retain as much original wood as possible. My last wood spoke prep (1915 Buick) started out to be the same. I masked all the spokes prior to having the felloes sand blasted (along with the rims & body). My blaster guy (a real experienced blaster 70+ years old) asked me why I didn't want him to blast the wood spokes. I explained my concerns about loosing too much wood etc. He simply asked if the wood was in good condition. I said I think so. He said the best way to find bad wood is to gently blast the spokes with greensand (he uses greensand for everything). Then he gave me a little demnstration on one spoke. If the wood is good, like mine was, the spokes come out looking great with no added effort except to pick out any remaining particles that may stay wedged in cracks. After blasting, I primed and painted all the metal and finished the wood with several coats of spar varnish. The varnish darkens the wood to a nice rich color without any stain. My spokes look great with much less time and labor than my first job!

Definately drive it to the meet! This may be a once in a lifetime opportunity to really enjoy a vacation with your car. The extra parts already mentioned should be enough if you have serviced the wheel & axle bearings and keep a copy of the BCA directory with you. BCA members across the country are more than willing to help get you going again. I followed in the "trouble truck & trailer" for the Seattle to Rochester caravan last summer, and except for an unavailable wheel bearing that put a 41 sedanette on my trailer, anyone with a problem got it fixed in less than half a day!

Fred is offering some good advice here. If you still have no gas after Fred's suggestions, check the operation of the float itself. Rust and varnish from old stale gasoline can make the float stick. It must cycle up and down smoothly. Don't be afraid to get into the guts and figure out how it works so you can identify the problem and fix it. The first vacuum tank I ever re-worked was on a 24 Buick truck at the BCA national last summer. Others could not believe that I would try fixing something that I had never had apart before, but I did it because that is all part of the fun.

The Old Guy has a good idea with special name tags. How about just putting your forum "handle" on your name tag along with your name? Im my case, it is the same, but for others......it's a good idea.

Blackwalls are much easier to care for and do not yellow with age. I agree with previous posts that your car looks good with BW tires and wouldn't be improved with WW tires. Check out http://www.universaltire.com/cart.php?target=category&category_id=286

Harold, I suggest you call my buddy Frank in Vancouver.

I currently have my 15 speedster tank out for tin plating. But that is a hot dip process that would not work for you. To clean the tank in my 29 buick, I used a whole can of Drano drain cleaner in about 2-3 gallons of hot water and about one coffee can full of crushed pea gravel. I removed the tank, filled all the openings, and did the twist with the solution in the tank....shaking and rolling it to make the gravel work all the crud off the inside. I dried it out with a hair drier and used Hirsch tank sealer per the instructions. It is still working fine after 15 years. http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=6&CATID=3

The bad clutch probably had little to do with the rear end failure. It is more likely that the gears were improperly adjusted most probably after a broken axle was replaced. Your best and least expensive bet is to find a parts car. Try this link: http://www.beaverheadriver.com/ranch/cars/index.htm

These look like the ones in my 1913 modle 31 Buick! I really don't want to take my steering box apart to verify, but they sure look to be the same. The first time I reassembled the steering box, I put them in backwards....The wheels went left when I tried to turn right....Could be a fun prank on tour....

We have a good foundry in Portland OR. Where are you located?

Check the AACA forum under this subject for details and links to photos, including some Buick parts cars.

The BCA PWD After-Tour will depart the BCA National Meet in Bellevue Washington on Sunday morning July 29th 2007 and head for Anacortes Washington. (Please use this link to see Anacortes) http://www.anacortes.org/video/chambervideo.mov The first annual PWD After-Tour was a great success and we expect several more prewar cars to be touring with us through the San Juan Islands & some of the most scenic parts of the Pacific Northwest. I expect that many will want to extend their stay after this tour. (Just cut and paste the registration form to a word document to print it out.) Registration Form Buick Club of America Pre-War Division After-Tour July 29th to August 1st, 2007 Registration Deadline: June 15, 2007 (Get your reservation in early for best rooms) Tour Fees: $100 for car and driver, $50 adult passenger, $30 child under 12yrs. These fees cover cost of ferries and admissions to attractions. Hotel & Meals are to be paid by participants. Hotel Reservations: Call the Cap Sante Inn, Anacortes, WA at 1-800-852-0846. Ask for the Buick Club room rate: ($73.00 Queen, $75 King). Tour Itinerary: Sun, July 29: Depart BCA National Meet, & tour Boeing & La Conner Arrive at Hotel, Anacortes WA for a dinner ?mixer?. Mon, July 30: Loop Tours to Sedro Woolley, Fairhaven and Chuckanut Drive Tue, July 31: Ferry to San Juan Island, tour island, lunch and return to Anacortes. Wed, Aug 1: Return to Bellevue WA via Whidbey Island and a short ferry ride. Arrive at Hilton Hotel, Bellevue WA at about 3:30 PM. (Tour booklets can be picked up at the Pre-War table or Pre-War meeting in Bellevue) Name: ________________________________________________ (please print) Address: _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ Evening Phone: ______________________ e-mail: _____________________ Year of Buick: ______________________ Model: _____________________ Passenger?s Names: ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ Please send your completed registration form with payment to: Jack Gerstkemper 22021 NE 128th Circle Brush Prairie, WA. 98606

There were lots of aftermarket lenses made in the teens and twenties. Yours looks similar to a Warner Lenz I have that was made in 1912. I doubt that your lens if for a specific make of car. You can check Ebay completed listings to see similar lenses and prices.

Barry, I like your idea of the collage. I just wish I had taken more photos of my cars over the last 30 years. But you an I have had some similar car history. I see that you had an AMC Pacer. I freely admit that an AMC Pacer X was my first "new" car. My wife and I bought it new for only $4000 when it was 1 1/2 years old because the dealer just couldn't move it. It was emerald green with tinted windows and we called it our "UFO martian bubble car". It could take corners like it was on rails. My very first car at age 16 was a 62 MG Midget, (everybody needs to own a little sports roadster) followed by a 47 Willys wagon (sleeper) with a 489 Pontiac V8 (blew the doors off little 289 mustangs), a 63 El Camino, BMW 1600 & VW Bug (while stationed in Germany), 69 Pontiac LeMans, etc. etc.... Now I drive a 2005 Silverado to tow my old Buicks.

Bill, I have several rods and linkage "forks". I replaced all the linkage rods in my 15 Buick before I found the originals hidden inside other parts. Please post a photo with a tape measure so we can see what style you need.

Barry, This is one instance where the overused term "Awesome!" really applies. Thanks for sharing. Mark Shaw

Check the completed listings for 31 Buick on Ebay. There is a very nice opera coupe in Portland OR that did not meet reserve.

Still for sale. Contact Gill or Wanda wandacommons@computerconnect.net

I do have all three spare jets, but they are for the small series 1930 engine.

Povertycove, If you have steel felloes, you should be able to use penetrating oil between the rim and the felloe to release it. With the lug nuts and lugs removed, let the air out of the tire and make sure the valve stem is at 6 O-Clock. Pull with your hands at 10 & 2 O-Clock until the top comes loose. Then, the bottom must go straight down to allow the valve stem to come out to remove the rim with the tire.. If that does not work, you may have to use a heavy rubber mallet rather than just your hands to help release the rim from the felloe.