keiser31

Clearly, the 1939 Dodge of Canada had 1939 Plymouth sheet metal so I do not think "hotrodchic's" car is Canadian.

Dave....I think I have come up with enough to buy your car......

I divorced one!

Viewed from the driver's seat in left hand drive car. The numbers on the tabs are from left to right 5, 6, 4, 2, 3, 1. The 1st tab (#5) holds a wire to the tail lamp. The 2nd tab (#6) holds a wire to each head lamp. The 3rd tab (#4) holds a wire to each head lamp. The 4th tab (#2) holds a wire to the horn. The 5th tab (#3) holds a wire to each cowl lamp. The 6th tab (#1) holds a wire to the horn, a wire to the ammeter and a wire to the signal lamp switch. Hope this helps. John

I have a 1931 Dodge that was converted to wire wheels for that very reason. I sold the owner of the car some drums and he found some of the original optional wire wheels. Then I bought that car. You should not need to use a machine shop as I have a photo/drawing of a wire wheeled '25 Chrysler so they should be out there. Chances are they interchange with other cars.

Try these...these are for a 1930.

Very cool car.

Just to inform....the 1939 Canadian Dodge were basically 1939 Plymouths along with the front end sheet metal and trim.

Yes, that could be it exactly. For a "build sheet" you can go to the Chrysler Museum website and they will send you an exact copy if you send them the serial number on the door post and $45.00. It will tell you who ordered it and when it was built and what colors/trim it came with.

Uh oh... I was wrong. Bob did not get that item. Sorry.

I would say that you might want to keep it original since you already have two muscle cars. You can always find a "rod" project later down the line. In keeping it original, you will #1-preserve a great car, #2-be able to drive the best of both worlds, #3-if the suspension is done correctly for the car, it will be a breeze to steer without power steering and #4-roll the windows down and feel the wind along with the feel of the "old car ride".

Well, last week for the very first time, something that I sold on ebay was shipped and lost. It was a 1930 DeSoto radiator cap. It was wrapped well and large enough not to lose. If I have to insure everything from October on through ebay, the buyer will simply have to eat that cost because I am NOT going to suffer a loss from some shipper's mistake.

The serial number should start with "D-11" for 1939.

1930 Plymouth roadster.

If you really need it, PM Bob Scafani (dbracer). He purchased it.

Sure would like to see a photo of that 30 something Dodge hanging on the wall.

1939.

CAR...possibly a replica. DRIVER...truly an idiot.

I'll bet it felt like when I went skydiving...

Uhhhhh...............................no.

Try this guy...he has loads of MOPAR stuff. Tom Sehloff sehloff_mopars@yahoo.com

You can buy anything from me except my two 1931 Dodge Brothers coupes, my grandfather's pocket watch, my wife and my kids. Oh....and my kitty Rusty.

Sounds to me like another brake shoe adjustment and then another bleeding is in order. If it all worked fine and all you did was to change the shoes, then all you need to look at are the shoes. I'm thinking that you have only a couple of possibilities for something to go wrong. Either the shoes were not "fit" to the drums, the shoes are mixed up (primary/secondary shoes in the wrong positions) or the adjustment is off. I would have a hard time believing that the booster all of a sudden took a dive on you. I used to be a brake mechanic and the booster problem usually gradually goes bad.

I just saw some wiper arms on ebay.