hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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"Safety glass comes to mind. You have to install it on any restoration where the original glass was single window pane."
Right, but if you have an existing car in your garage, there is no law that states you have remove all your glass from the car and replace it with safety glass, although that is common sense if you are restoring your car.
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Wow, really like that '28 with the black and blue paint! Beautiful car.
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Thanks for all the posts!
Frank29u, thanks for the tip about the upper line not being under pressure. That didn't even occur to me, so that line stays.
28Ply cpe., thanks for the link. They have the copper tubing in my size I need (I have a kinked lower tube that should probably be replaced), so that's extremely helpful. I'll have to call them about the line nut. I didn't see it on their site; only saw 1/4" on there.
Regards.
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Agreed. Why destroy something like this when you can buy a decent fiberglass Ford replica that you can build however you like. Ultimate destruction is the future of our hobby, it seems.
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I'm looking for a 5/8" brake line nut for a 1930 Plymouth for a 5/16" copper brake line, or info on any suppliers/people that may have them available. This piece goes from the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir to the upper copper brake line, which in turn, snakes down to the master cylinder. Yes, I'm aware of the safety risks with copper lines and may replace them with cunifer lines. Thanks for any leads!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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Seldenguy has it right, just looking for a new nut and maybe a replacement copper brake line; I'm not entering the Great Race with it, just tooling around at slow speeds. Cunifer may be how I end up going once I find a authentic looking nut. I thank everyone for their comments.
Also, I stand by my "run what it came with comment." There has never been an instance that an old car had to be retrofitted with a new technology.
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Thanks for all the replies, I'll look into all of this and hopefully piece it back together. My lines are definitely all copper; doesn't stick to my industrial-strength magnet. In the US, as long as what is on your car came during your model year, you're good to go. Everything is grandfathered in, as it should be. Can't get into much trouble with high gearing, 45mph top speed and 48 hp anyway.
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I'm looking for a 5/8" brake line nut for a 1930 Plymouth for 5/16" copper brake line, or info on any suppliers that may have them available. This piece goes from the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir to the upper copper brake line. Thanks.
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Thanks Mochet. I'll look into this.
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Sambarn,
Thanks for the info; I appreciate it. Yes, Plymouths had hydraulic brakes from day one in 1928. My copper tubes themselves are in excellent condition except for the slight kink in one and the cracked nut on another. I'll hold out and see one some of the other folks have to say.
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Why? Because that's what the car came with originally and I am keeping the car authentic.
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I have a 1930 Plymouth with a damaged and kinked copper brake line and a cracked brass nut. Does anyone know a place that can fabricate new copper brake lines and associated brass nuts? Thanks!
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Can't help you with parts, but great job on saving another Plymouth. Can't wait to see it on here when you're finished.
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Love the post. Keep up the great work!
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Agree. Hubcaps say "GMC."
Love all these posts, thanks guys!
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I did a little more research. Your block number 3970010, wasn't introduced until late April of 1969, meaning it had to have been from 1977. There should also be a casting date on the block, which should be at the rear of the block to the right of the casting number. It should read something like M 3 7, Meaning Dec 3, 1977, for your block. See if that is on the back of your block and that should answer the question about the date.
Also, Chevrolet started painting their blocks "corporate blue" in 1977, so if you have any blue paint left over on the block, then that's another give away.
Valve reliefs were common with certain Chev small blocks during the era, while others didn't have them. Depends on the application. Hope this helps a little.
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Here's the outlet I was talking about. It is for sale.
http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt7/hursst/c75ac2be-c83e-4242-98b1-1ee34df1d8c5.jpg' alt='c75ac2be-c83e-4242-98b1-1ee34df1d8c5.jpg'>
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Water pump, 1920's-early 1930's? Don't know application or actual year.
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Rods rust,
Yes, it goes behind the water pump and attaches to the block. Let me get back to you on that this afternoon. I'm away from the part right now.
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The 350 came out in '67, but it was a Camaro exclusive for the SS-350. Not sure what you mean about the partial VIN. Yours shows a 7, why would an 8 be mentioned or the '68 model year be mentioned when your VIN has a 7?
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1- Chevrolet
7- Either 1967 or 1977
K- McKinnon Plant
444516- Sequential number
T- Tonawanda Engine Plant
12- Assembly Month (December)
02- Assembly Day (3rd of the Month)
CKH- I'm not sure of the year of your engine, as I only have 70-75 info. During this timeframe, this was either a 307 or 350 engine. If your engine is a 1967, this would probably be a 327, if it is a 1977 engine, then it would probably be a 350 2-bbl, but don't quote me.
My source is Chevrolet by the Numbers 1970-1975. Maybe a guy with the 65-69 book will chime in, or a guy who knows 1976+ engines will help...
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What is a "Hot Rod"? If you are talking about an AACA "Documented Race Car" that can be shown in Class 24A, I can think of several '32 Ford Roadsters. Three of them sold for over $200.000.00, what will Joe Adverage pay for a stock restored '32 Ford Roadster? Bob
Come on, you know what I mean, I mean a rare or significant car that was hot rodded, let's say in the last 40 years (usually in the last 10 years) that should have been restored as stock, such as the 1933 Continental, or the Darrin Packard that was mentioned. I'm not talking about a Ford Roadster from the 40's or 50's that set land speed records and has historical value in that form.
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The recent 1933 Continental posting a few hours ago made me sick to my stomach, so I wanted to post another thread. Has anyone ever undone a hot rod? For example, I would love to purchase that Continental Hot Rod and restore it back to original, just to spite the neanderthals that destroyed it. The obvious problem would be where do you get parts? With a car like that, those cretins probably scrapped all the other parts to the car, so you'd be stuck with a frame and body, but not much else. I would think this would be easier with a more common car, since original parts would be easier to find. I guess there are not enough AACA-type people out there to save these cars from being destroyed. It looks like for every AACA-type, there are about 5 hot rodders. I fear that in another 50 years, there will be no antique cars, just hot rods.
Back to my main point, are there any examples of hot rods that have been saved and restored back to original?
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Hello, the attached photo is of a generator bracket for a 4-cyl Plymouth, but I'm not sure of the year. My 1930 30U has a similar bracket, but my bracket is curved, not straight like this one. Any ideas on the model year? Thanks for any help.
Where can I get new copper brake lines and new brass line nuts for 1930 Plymouth?
in Technical
Posted
35cz8, thank you for the tip, but these are generic replacement kits in steel; not what I need for my car. I appreciate your help either way!
I've decided to keep my upper line from the fluid reservoir from the master cylinder the same, since it is not under pressure, and I'm going to try Heavy Wall Copper Tubing from here: Classic & Exotic Service, Inc. to replace my short kinked line (thanks for 28Plymouth Cpe.! for the link!)
I'd like to thank all the posters for their advice and time, but I think I'm going to try the Heavy Wall stuff and keep my car as authentic as possible. Still looking for an authentic or authentic-looking line nut 5/8" for a 5/16" line, if anyone knows of any.