hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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1934 Ford
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I have one that I forgot I had. I'm not sure if it works, but the visible drum portion will move around if you lightly shake it. It appears complete, but the black face will need to be repainted and the whole thing needs to be disassembled and cleaned. The chrome plating on the frame that actually sticks thru the dash will need to be replated as well. Please let me know if you, or anyone else for that matter, would like me to send them photos. Looks like a great candidate for an easy restoration.
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Can anyone recommend a reliable water pump rebuilder for a 1930 Plymouth water pump? It's tough to trust some of the adverstisers in some of the magazines sometimes, so I'd like to get a couple recommendations if any of you know of any honest, reliable, high quality rebuilders. Thanks!
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How often do you change the gear oil in the rear axle and in the transmission?
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I am looking for an idle solenoid bracket hold down screw and a throttle lever for a Rochester Quadrajet Carburetor from 1968-1981 or so. The specific application is for a 1974 Camaro Z28. The screw should be a common generic carb piece (that I can't seem to find anywhere) and the throttle lever is also fairly generic, but I need the one with the ball stud at the top, not in the middle area. Please email Chris at lutzc01@comcast.net or Private Message me if you have either of these for sale.
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Beautiful!
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The realism school in the art of concrete sculpture has made great strides in the last few years.
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I must say, this is a great bill and I fully support it and here's why:
1) MD is just catching up with almost every other state where 25 years is the norm. If the AACA norm is 25 years, then all states should have that norm in order to qualify as classics.
2) Being from VA, I see PLENTY of cars from MD driving around 495 with antique plates. Many of these cars are things like 1992 Sevilles, 1990 Buick Park Avenues, but more importantly, many are pickup trucks. Almost every one of these cars/trucks is a clapped out, one-foot-in the junkyard vehicles that are being driven by non-automotive enthusiasts simply as a tax and registration savings. Rarely is it something like a 1992 Olds 98 in mint condition going out for a Sunday drive. These cars are being used as every day drivers and are simply not classics, antiques, or anything else other than condition 4 or 5 used cars. Yes, there are exceptions, but most 20-25 year old "antiques" in MD are being used as daily drivers to skirt the tax/registration fees. Pay attention next time you're in MD and you'll see what I mean.
3) A 20 year-old car is simply not old enough to be an antique car. The average age of all vehicles on the road now is 11 years old. Is making it another 9 really that tough or special that it should be an "antique?"
4) All these people are giving the rest of us bad names by taking advantage of the system. The same thing happened in VA. Now you have to prove you have a daily driver in addition to your antique, as 1/2 the "antiques" out there were clapped out 1985 Ford trucks that were being used by contractors as daily work vehicles. I can't tell you how many 1982 Chevy trucks I've seen in the recent past with antique plates and 1/2 ton of mulch in the back, 4 people in the front seat and not one patch of paint left on the vehicle. I'm sorry, but this is not an antique, is not in the spirit of the collector car community and is not being driven by an enthusiast. I would invite everyone to encourage this new law to help keep the hobby for enthuiasts with 25-year old vehicles or older. Do we really need another non-insured, clapped out, 1992 Ford Taurus wagon looking like it came from the demolition derby driving down the road with "antique" MD tags? I would say no. What are your thoughts...?
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Anyone know anything about translating 1930 color codes? Chrysler Historical found my build card, and it says "8236 Code A" for my paint. Apparently, the secret decoder ring between these numbers and paint codes has been lost. does anyone have any info? I'm trying to figure out how my car was painted originally.
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I just got a repro pair of the saddles from Marge Verdone just today. Her email address is verdones@evenlink.com. They come with a good polishing on the easy to see surfaces, but are a little rough-cast in the middle/inside areas. They also require screw holes to be drilled and tapped. They are solid stainless steel. I was very pleased with them, considering you can't get real ones anywhere. I'm having mine drilled and tapped tomorrow and I'll be sending them out for a final polishing/finishing in a couple weeks. I would recommend them, but they will need a little work to be show worthy.
I have no info on the slats...
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One of mine was cracked, but someone repaired it long before I bought it. They did a so-so job, but it looks like a repair can be done at least. It would probably be easier than finding another replacement piece, and maybe cheaper, since these aren't just laying around in junkyards. Maybe you could have another piece molded from one of your good ones?
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I'm looking for a set of 1930 Plymouth 30U Roadster Top Saddles. These would be the chrome (or nickel?) saddles that attach to the 4 metal strips on the back deck, so the top can rest on them. I'm looking for originals or repros; doesn't matter. I've had some leads recently, but they have not panned out.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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I'm looking for a set of 1930 Plymouth 30U Roadster Top Saddles. These would be the chrome (or nickel?) saddles that attach to the 4 metal strips on the back deck, so the top can rest on them. I'm looking for originals or repros; doesn't matter. I've had some leads, but they haven't panned out yet.
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Have you tried the guys at National Nostolgic Nova? National Nostalgic Nova Club
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Good for you for restoring this car; that will be quite a challenge. You'll have something very unique when you're finished. Can't wait to see more of your progress.
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I would say it's because when a luxury car gets to be about 9 years old, stuff starts to break and parts start to get hard to find. Maintenance costs are FAR more than the car is even worth at that point and no one feels like paying the price. The few cars that do remain are abused by owners because they can't afford to fix them, so they are run into the ground. That's true with almost every luxury car. Unless the car has low mileage, no one is interested in saving it because it's not worth it. In 1941, a Marmon 16 was the equivalent of a 2002 Cadillac DeVille today. I know that you can't really compare a Marmon 16 to a 2002 Cadillac, but in historical reference, that's the equivalent.
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Thanks for the photos. According to the 1930 Plymouth owners manual, each one came with the following. Are these the same for your 29-30 DeSoto? Looks similar to the '31 Dodge tools. I assume they are:
1) Wheel rim wrench
2) Wheel hub cap wrench
3) Brake Cylinder Bleeder hose assembly
4) Brake Cylinder Bleeder hose connection
5) high-pressure lubricant gun
6) Tire pump
7) Auto jack
8) Auto jack handle
9) Starting crank assembly
10) #1 wrench
11) #2 wrench
12) Push rod adjusting screw wrench
13) #4 wrench
14) Pliers
15) Screwdriver- large
16) Hammer
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Beautiful roadster. I notice that you don't have the metal "saddles" on the outer 2 rear deck slats. Are you missing them, or did your car not have them to begin with? What do you use, if anything, to secure the folded top to the rear deck?
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Try going to NastyZ28 Second Generation Camaro Owners Group. This is a 2nd generation Camaro site, and there are a TON of 2nd gen guys on here. You should be able to find a forum on there where you can bring up '73 Type LTs for sale and I bet you could find one through that site. I have a '74 Z-28 Type LT, so I'm quite familar with those cars, if you have any questions. Sounds like you know what you're talking about, though, and maybe you know of the site already. Good luck either way, the '73 Type LT is a GREAT car!
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I would be very interested. Please PM me if you can. Thanks!
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I'm looking for any tools that came with the 1930 Plymouth to complete a set for my car. These are hard to identify as they were not labelled, but maybe someone knows what they look like. I already have the tire iron and the crank starter handle. Please send me a PM if you have any for sale.
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Does anyone know why, after 8 months, I cannot get an email response to my online registration in order to join the discussion on the Plymouth Owners Website? Obviously, from the older parts of this particular forum, this has been a problem for years. Why have an online discussion page if new members have no way of joining it? New members are the future of your club and they will soon be former members if you cannot provide basic benefits that are offered in the membership description. Thanks for any help.
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I also own a 1930 Plymouth 30U. Having restored a 2nd generation Camaro, I will tell you that a restoration on a 1930 Plymouth will be EASY, as long as most, if not all the parts are already there. I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you may have about your car, although I'm no expert and have only had the car for about 6 months. Feel free to Private Message me.
For some of the other Plymouth guys, I joined the Plymouth Owner's Club about 6 months ago and I love the club, but I'm having problems registering to get onto the forum. I sent 2 emails to the moderator, as instructed, but never got a response or account. Does anyone know what's going on with that? I'd really like to get on the forum, but I never get a response. Thanks.
1930 Plymouth 30U Misc Engine Parts For Sale
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
For Sale: 1930 Plymouth 30U 4-cyl Engine Parts: "Silver Dome" Cylinder Head $75; Crankshaft $50; Starter (works!)$100; Flywheel $50; Pressure Plate $75; Clutch $25; Upper Generator Support Bracket$10; Water Pump Jacket $20; Speedometer (all there, but will need some work) $90. All parts are used. Offers considered. Photos available upon request. Prices do not include shipping. Local pickup available or I can deliver to the Carlisle or Hershey, PA shows. Email Chris at lutzc01@comcast.net<o:p></o:p>