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Posts posted by hursst
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Was able to do all 5 myself. One of them took under 5 minutes, which tells me it was a much newer installation. I believe the other 4 have been on the car for at least 30 years. Those were very difficult to get off, as they were almost fused to the wheel and the intertubes were sticking to the inner tires and wheels. Thanks again for the help. On to the next project...
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Beautiful car. Wish I had more space, or I'd think about myself. Hope it goes to the right home.
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Thank you kindly for all the advice and suggestions. I decided to go to TSC and I bought a tire iron and schrader valve puller. It took me about 2 hrs, but I finally got one of the tires off. Four more to go (I'm going to powdercoat the wheels, get new tires, tubes, and vintage schrader valves). Not fun at all, but it's nice to learn another old car skill and not have to pay someone else to do it. The other tires should go faster now that I sort of know how to do it. Thanks again!!!
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Thanks again. I don't have any of these tire irons, but I may be able to make due with something else. I'll give this a try and see what I can do.
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Thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with how these tires are mounted or removed. What do you use to remove your tire(s)?
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Hello, I wanted to ask if anyone knows a place in Northern Virginia that can remove tires from the wire wheels of my 1930 Plymouth. The tires have intertubes. The local tire shops won't touch them. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Thanks again. I think this gives me a pretty good idea of what to look for now. I really appreciate the help.
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Yes, this does help me get closer to an answer. According to the 1934 Master parts book, there is a Phaeton and a Convertible Sedan, but no mention of a Touring that I can find. The Convertible Sedan is listed as a Model PB, whereas the Phaeton is listed as a Model U and a PA. Would you know if your body style would be considered a Phaeton, officially? If so, then the part numbers do match up for your car and a 1930 30U Roadster, which answers my question about what it looks like. My next question would be if it was chrome or not, like yours. In the few photos I've seen of a 1930 30U roadster, the wipers do not appear to be chrome. Thank you for posting these photos, I appreciate it!
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Thank you for the response, but the '30 would be mounted on the upper windshield and may or may not have been different. I guess only way to be sure is see one on a '30 that is verified to be correct. Thanks again!
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Still looking for a photo of a correct wiper motor for an open car 1930 Plymouth, preferably a roadster? Thanks for any information.
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For all the AMC guys, some of you probably know this place, but there is a junkyard called Leon's off of Rt 29 south of Culpepper, VA that has tons and tons of AMCs, mostly 60's-70's. Every variety from Marlins to Gremlins to Ambassadors, Javelins, Americans, to even a '63 American Bell Phone Service Car in the dark green color. Most are quite rusty but fairly complete as there is less demand for the AMC stuff. They are rapidly crushing out some of their old cars to make room and gather revenue. I really hate to see these cars get crushed, so I thought I'd mention it in the hopes that some enthusiasts could take advantage and pick up some parts. Their phone number is <nobr>(540) 547-2366.</nobr>
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Thanks!
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Does anyone have a photo of a correct wiper motor for a 1930 Plymouth, preferably a roadster? Thanks for any information.
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Any 1930 Plymouth Headlights?
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Just a friendly note, you have 1976 listed in your ad, but you have 1967 listed on the title to your ad...
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Thanks again! Your help is greatly appreciated!
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Yes, it may be time for that since I keep having these electrical gremlins and the wiring is either original, or at a minimum, about 35 years old.
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As far as I know, wiring is original, except the ignition was replaced before I bought it with a modern coil along with about 4 new wires. This replaced the original coil/ignition combo.
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Hello,
I have a 1930 Plymouth 30U Roadster and my voltage limiter just fried and I was wondering if anyone has an idea on what may have caused this. I've been having many electircal problems recently, starting with a blown fuse and a dead battery. The battery was old and would not take a charge, so I replaced it, along with the fuse (6 volt battery and system). I also made a slight adjustment to the generator's third brush ( I moved it down a very slight amount) to try to correct a slight discharge condition when the headlights were on. This improved it very slightly and it seemed good enough. I drove it for another couple weeks (weekend driving), then I noticed that I had another discharge condition and when I would rev the engine, the gauge would go deep into the discharge range. This is when I checked the voltage limiter and saw it was not getting any power from the generator. I looked inside the limiter and it was burned out and a little melted. I assume my adjustment of the third brush must have caused this? Any other ideas on why this would have happened? I'm not very skilled with electrical problems and learning a little by trial and error, I guess the hard way.
In addition, does anyone know where I can get a new voltage limiter for this car? A cursory look did not reveal any available, but maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Thanks for any guidance on getting my Plymouth back on the road.
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Looks great. Glad to see that another old car will be back on the road.
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Looking for some 1930 Plymouth Tools to complete a set:
Tire Pump
#1 Wrench
#2 Wrench
Brake Bleeder Hose
Brake Bleeder Hose Connection
Please PM if you have any of these for sale.
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Congratulations on a great restoration. Your project is an inspiration to us all and shows that any car can be restored with the right attitude, knowledge, and maybe thicker wallet.
I hope to pull a car out of a junkyard one day soon and do the same thing...but I'm out of the space at the moment. Although many of the cars in the junkyards I see are beyond a rational-cost restoration, I still hate to see them go to the crusher either way.
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Thanks again for the tips. It seems like I'm operating normally, according to what you are telling me. I think I'll leave the third brush basically where it was before and it looks like I'll be fine for night driving with the ammeter around +1 while at speed (about 35mph). I do a small amount of night driving and I'm usually no more than 10 miles from my house, so I should be fine. Again, I appreciate your willingness to help and share you experiences.
1930 Plymouth 30U and Related Parts
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
1930 Plymouth 30Uand related parts for sale: Crankshaft $50; Pressure Plate $75; Clutch $25; UpperGenerator Support Bracket $10; Water Pump Jacket $20; Wire Wheel in excellentcondition: $75; ~1928-1933 gauge cluster off/on light switch/dome light switchin salvageable condition: $30; Set of 5 Schrader Valve Covers and securing nuts$40; ~1928-1933 #5 MOPAR Wrench $10; 1929 Instruction Book (Owner’s Manual) Fifth Edition May, 1929 $65, 1930 Instruction Book (Owner’s Manual) First Edition April 1930, $65. All parts are used. Prices negotiable. Photos available upon request. Prices do not include shipping. Local pickup available in the Northern Virginia area. Call, text, or email Chris (703) 565-7476, lutzc01@comcast.net<o:p></o:p>