hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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Hello,
I have a 30U and I'm having problems with the fuse going out all the time now. I'm out of fuses, so thought I'd ask for some advice. The car will start and drive just fine, but will have no lights or horn without a fuse. If I put a fuse in and connect the battery, the fuse will heat up and break in about 8 seconds (30 Amp fuse). I've had similar problems with the fuse going out in the recent past, both times were when I demonstrated the horn at a car show with the key off. I would replace the fuse and be fine for a while, now, the fuse won't last at all.I assume I have a crossed wire somewhere or a bad ground, but wanted to ask for advice before I start taking the whole electrical system apart past the fuse point. It's also impossible to test, as I can't get any power to the system without blowing the fuse. I'm not very skilled with electrical, either. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
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Hello,
I have a 1930 Plymouth 30U and I'm having problems with the fuse going out all the time now. I'm out of fuses, so thought I'd ask for some advice. The car will start and drive just fine, but will have no lights or horn without a fuse. If I put a fuse in and connect the battery, the fuse will heat up and break in about 8 seconds (30 Amp fuse). I've had similar problems with the fuse going out in the recent past, both times were when I demonstrated the horn at a car show with the key off. I would replace the fuse and be fine for a while, now, the fuse won't last at all.I assume I have a crossed wire somewhere or a bad ground, but wanted to ask for advice before I start taking the whole electrical system apart past the fuse point. It's also impossible to test, as I can't get any power to the system without blowing the fuse. I'm not very skilled with electrical, either. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
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That's the one that was for sale at Carlisle.
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Just curious, any luck with this lead?
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There was just one for sale at Spring Carlisle (in PA) show this last weekend. It was still there as of Saturday at 2pm. 1971 4-door. 8,900 original miles. $7,900. Don't know if it sold or not. Call Toys With Wheels, Carlisle, PA 17013
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I may be able to source one on Monday...
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I'll add that on my 30U, when I push up on my timing lever, as you do in video #3, mine is very tight with no movement. I don't have any other advice on the other videos, but it seems like you've made a big improvement thus far. Continued good luck in getting it dialed in.
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By "right side," do you mean driver's or passenger's side? Just wanted to make sure there's no confusion.
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I'm interested. Please see my PM.
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No such thing as a '44 Ford pickup. It may be a '42 titled as a '44 if it was released by the gov't, otherwise, no such thing. Try asking for '42 and you'll get more hits.
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Still looking for a photo(s) of the 1930 Plymouth tool kit. There are some good photos of a 1929 tool kit going around, but it is missing a few tools. Just curious if anyone has an ORIGINAL set and could share some photos.
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Please see my PM.
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Keiser31, thank you very much! I have wire wheels, so looks like I'll be starting a search for the one on the right. you are a wealth of knowledge, hope I can reciprocate one day.
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Hello. In the 1930 owner's manuals, it mentions under the tools section that a Wheel Rim Wrench is included. Does anyone have a photo of what this looks like? I'm still trying to put together a complete collection of tools. Thanks for any assistance.
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Thank you for the response. I had another gentleman in another forum say the exterior support bars were chrome as well, so thatsounds liek the correct answer to me.
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You may want to try Leon's in Culpeper, VA, if you're willing to travel a little. They probably have a few of these.Address: 6207 James Monroe Highway, Leon, VA 22725
Phone:(540) 547-2366
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Hello, I have a 1930 30U roadster and the 4 top support bars that are mounted on the rear deck are currently pot-metal colored, which is the way they were when I bought the car 4 years ago. My question is, would these bars have originally been just cleaned-up pot metal, nickel plated, or chrome plated? I assume these were originally nickel plated, but I don't know for sure and thought I'd ask the experts to make sure I finish them correctly.
What about interior door handles? What was the finish on those? Mine are currently just pot metal colored.
Any help is appreciated.
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I can't help with this problem as I don't know how much play is "allowed", but I'm interested to find out what the solution is at the end of this, as it looks like you're chasing it down ther correct way. I'll also offer encouragement and let you know that we are interested in your posts. This will probably help some of us out in the long run.
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Depending on where you are, you may want to try Universal. They are out of Elizabethtown, PA.
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That's a good answer. Not sure if AEV is authorized by Chrysler...or Mr. Norm's current cars/trucks, or current "Nickey" Camaros, etc.
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I'm speaking specifically about cars from around 1998 and newer, where the lineage is not as clear. For example, how would a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with an AEV package be judged in 2040, when it's a "classic?" Here's the webpage that shows an example of these types of Jeeps: http://www.lindsaychryslerdodgejeepram.com/certified-aev-dealer.htm You can buy these vehciles new, right off the showroom floor, from an official Jeep dealer, yet they are shipped from Jeep to Montana to get some of these conversions. Would these vehicles still be legal if you had an AEV brouchure showing the options purchased, plus copies of the dealer invoices? What if you went back to the dealership 2 months later and had a conversion done? Would that still count? you can do this with many, many new vehicles nowadays.
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In the last 15 years or so, there have been many, many "dealer special" type cars that have been created and sold directly from dealerships. Such examples include the 2000-2002 Tom Henry Racing SS Camaros, the SS Camaros made through GMMG, the Berger Camaros, plus cars like the Mr. Norm's GSS Challengers, or the hundreds of Mustang special editions that weren't built directly through Ford. If you go to any Jeep dealership, there are tons of Wranglers with full off-road accessory kits offered directly through aftermarket companies or even MOPAR, but these are not factory options or even factory accessories, but maybe "dealership or dealership contracted" conversions.
In not too many years, some of these cars will show up on AACA show fields. Would the AACA consider these cars stock, as long as they were delivered from the dealership in this guise, and with documentation literature? What about cars like the recent Shelby GT, which could have been bought new as a Mustang GT, then shipped years later to Shelby for a Shelby GT conversion? What will be considered "stock" in the future?
I think this will be a new problem coming up in a few years, as these cars are kind of stock and kind of not stock at the same time.
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Does the Spark Advance lever on the dash do anything positive or negative when this problem starts happening? If you pulled the advance lever out, do you get a little more correct timing for a little while, or would that not even make a difference at the point where the timing is failing? Just thinking if you can postpone or lessen the effect by advancing the timing with the spark advance lever, maybe this would prove that it is definitely distributor-related? I'm no expert, but just a thought.
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1930 Plymouth 30Uand related parts for sale: Crankshaft $50; Pressure Plate $75; Clutch $25; UpperGenerator Support Bracket $10; Water Pump Jacket $20; Wire Wheel in excellentcondition: $75; ~1928-1933 gauge cluster off/on light switch/dome light switchin salvageable condition: $30; Set of 5 Schrader Valve Covers and securing nuts$40; ~1928-1933 #5 MOPAR Wrench $10; 1929 Instruction Book (Owner’s Manual)Fifth Edition May, 1929 $65, 1930 Instruction Book (Owner’s Manual) FirstEdition April 1930, $65. All parts areused. Prices negotiable. Photosavailable upon request. Prices do not include shipping. Local pickup availablein the Northern Virginia area. Call, text, or email Chris (703) 565-7476, lutzc01@comcast.net<o:p></o:p>
1930 Plymouth 30U Electrical Gremlins
in Technical
Posted
Thanks Rusty. Just picked up 10 new fuses, but I'll try your test light idea so I can start tracking. I have a wiring diagram, so that will help, too.