Jump to content

hursst

Members
  • Posts

    1,557
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by hursst

  1. I have a cylinder head for a 4-cylinder 1930 Plymouth 30U in my basement. I'd prefer that it go to help restore a correct restoration rather than sit there waiting for the next spider family to show up.

    Does anyone know if this cylinder head would be the same for the 1927 Chrysler 4-cyl? KEVINZ, could you post a photo of the cylinder head and I can see if it's the same as the one I have?

  2. Thanks again for a perfect show. Looks like you also finally figured out how to dial in the weather, along with the 27 miles of cars and parts. I really appreciated all the extra effort shown by everyone in the AACA and the Hershey Region. The show was superior in every way.

  3. Hello, I have a 1930 30U, built in late 1930. Would this model be of help? If so, what specific dimensions do you need? The only dimensions I know from the owners manual are 11" (279.4mm) drums and 1 1/2" (38.1mm) wide brake shoes. If you need more specific dimensions, which it sounds like you do, let me know and I could try to take a look at mine for you.

  4. Car looks great. I have a 1930 30U Roadster with whitewalls which I will replace with blackwalls when these tires wear out.

    As for chroming, I've been VERY impressed with Librandi's, which is near Harrisburg, PA. This is probably your best bet for show quality chrome. They chrome everything, not just bumpers. I'm sure there are many other good shops, but this is the best I've dealt with. I have also had success with Bumper Boys, from CA, but they seem to be hit or miss. I've heard bad things about them, as well. Although I've never tried them, I've heard many good things about Tri-City plating out of TN. Whatever you do, don't use Nu-Chrome out of MA. These guys took almost a year to do a re-annodization project for about 16 trim pieces I had, then they lost some of pieces as well. This was about 3-4 years ago. They were liars and jerks about the whole thing on top of it all.

    Good luck!

  5. I'm interested in assembling a tool kit for my 1930 as well, but don't even know where to start looking for them. I only have the hand crank and lug wrench, and who knows if those are even the correct ones. Everything else is missing. Keep us posted.

  6. Thanks again. I decided to go with the "longer" shoe in the front and the "shorter" shoe in the rear, as Marty described. If that's what the manual is saying, plus that's the way I found them when I took them apart, I think I'll go with that. I got a new one-man bleeder and I was able to get it to a moderately hard pedal. I still have some more bleeding to do, but it's drivable around the neighborhood for now. I think I need to replace the brake fluid reservoir, just as the previous owner was trying to do. I think it is slowly seeping fluid out of the bottom due to corrosion. I think that's why I keep getting some air in the brake lines no matter how much I bleed them. Thanks again for the advice; with your help, it's roadworthy again.

  7. Guys, thanks for the advice. I tried going with the original valves, but I had trouble with the one-man bleeding unit, so I switched to modern fittings for now. Turns out the brake bleeder is no good anymore anyway, so I have to start all over with a new bleeder kit tomorrow. I think I'll stick with the modern fittings until I can find an adapter or other solution that works well.

    As far as the brake shoe directions, I saw the diagram in my owners manual, but I didn't see any reference to which direction was the front of the car. If the diagram is representative of the driver's side, then the long shoe is in the rear. Marty, does your parts guide specify which direction is the front of the car when viewing that diagram? I'll check the brake drums out, that's a good idea. I'm only going to do light driving for now, so I'm not too concerned.

    My car was greased before I bought it a few months ago, so I haven't gotten to the grease fittings yet. I'll keep both of your opinons in mind when I get arond to greasing.

    Thanks!!!

  8. I blew a rear brake cylinder a few weeks ago in my 30U with fluid all over the floor and everything. I've had the car only 3 months now. Upon taking the whole mess apart for a rebuild, I noticed that the brake shoes were installed with the long shoe pads towards the front of the car, while the short ones were towards the rear. Everything I've ever known is that the short shoe pad goes to the front, not the rear. Is there something different about the 30U, or, as I'm assuming, the previous owner(s) installed the brake shoes incorrectly? I have now had both rear cylinders and all 4 brake shoes professionally rebuilt and they are ready to install. I figured I'd ask just to be 100% sure.

    While I'm asking, does anyone still use the stock brake cylinder bleeder valves (the ones with a screw-in valve that has another screw-in bolt to seal up the valve), or has everyone switched to zerk fittings? I'd like to run the originals, since I like EVERYTHING stock or orginal, but I hear they can be annoying when bleeding them. However, I have a specialized bleeder pump that has many different rubber fittings, so it will fit the originals or zerks just fine. What are some of the opinions out there? Any comments are appreciated.

  9. I guess I won't be able to figure it out for certain until I see some photos, but I'll have to look under those chrome rests to see what I have. Didn't think to look up there.

    Thanks for the compliment, I'm very pleased with the car and I'm trying to fix it up and get everything as original as possible without going thru a restoration. Too nice to restore, but won't win any AACA awards. Congrats on your Dodge purchasae as well.

  10. Keiser31, thanks. I think that solves that mystery in a hurry. Regarding the side curtains, the other gentleman said in his email, which I revisited, that the car he was discussing was a DeSoto of the same body style as the 30U Roadster. I'm guessing the Plymouth maybe never had anything like that since it was a "cheaper" car. I appreciate your posting!

  11. Hello, new to the forum. I bought the 1930 30U Roadster that was mentioned a few threads below and I had a few questions that maybe some of the Plymouth folks could answer.

    1) There are 2 different types of hubcaps on the car. They both have the same "Plymouth" wording (not the just "P") from the outside, but inside they are different. With one type, you can see the "Plymouth" words pressed into the steel from the other side. On the other type, you cannot see the "Plymouth" words pressed in as if it is a 2-piece affair. There is also a logo "S" with "Scovill" typed on it, visible from the inside of the hubcap. This style also has a 1" edge height, while the other one is only 3/4". Anyone have an explanation? Which type is correct for a late-model 30U?

    2) The car is missing it's side curtains and support rods, which I'm having reproduced. The gentleman who is helping me with getting these reproduced says that in the rumbleseat compartment there was some type of compartment or attachment point that was on the back of the wooden supports of the front seat that stored or mounted the side curtains. Mine just has a black-painted wooden seat back along with a wooden frame. There is no evidence of anything else being there. Does anyone know if there was supposed to be something there and if there are any photos available of what it looked like?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

  12. Lou, thanks for the reply. I think that's a little out of my price range, especially if one needs painting, but thank you anyway.

    Fred, yes I've been scanning ebay daily, but I need a pair, not a single for VA. I restored a torn-up 1920 PA plate and it came out so-so. It's a little pitted and my painting is average at best, but looks WAY better than the rusty bent hulk it was before. I'll keep searching. Thank you.

    -Chris

×
×
  • Create New...