Dan O

I put a small inline electric fuel pump right off my gas tank to push fuel to the rebuilt mechanical pump in my '49. It's a Chinese 6 volt pump and it works well. I have a momentary switch mounted under dash. I let mine sit for weeks and then the bowl empties. This makes it easy to fill and not drain down that precious six volt battery reserve and also avoid heating up my starter and wires. I put a hotrod-type clear inline filter back there in front of the electric filter as well. I also keep a can of starter fluid handy and use it on initial startups. It sure gets her going without a lot of hassle. Once warmed up, she starts good thereafter until I put her back to bed.

Depending on your engine size, there is one Edmunds dual car intakes on eBay now https://www.ebay.com/itm/265929077604?hash=item3dea9bb364:g:A2sAAOSw8NJjDlj2&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoICqHUWfV1vAdWe9R%2FHT1IRts6XIqiD4A9%2Bv9xr5EcJswHVP1b%2BHrhPenAigKyQjx%2B9yu7VFBGQK0uG0npIWLnK7CpLyvQO6JqLcEy8ohQdTudqcZWxy8bCMrG3tjZMx7XZI09F5lyGVaYXCPF7ZJd72PiAuIamx5i1QVF5%2FYDXn4H%2BfGqVbuxjjDwmdL3mAbSR4cLo3d8spi%2FR0AB5fpv0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4bM3_v6YA Check the "completed items" too as I think there have been others listed lately. I get an alert on these but do not always look at the item as I have one myself. Price is about right on this one with carbs.

That beast pops up every few years. It is a strange machine.

I am looking for a nice set of rear shocks for my 1949 Roadmaster. I believe they are Delco 2105c and 2105d part no. Would prefer NOS if possible but rebuilt will be great.

I'd be happy to sell it to you at an unreasonable price! I have the convertible as well.

I made some comments in another thread here - "I did drive it 25 miles today and it did well. It gave a bit of resistance at speed when I tried to push 70mph and surged a bit as if it just would not go over 70, but then it did and cruised along at 70 for most of the way. I have a rebuilt motor, tranny, brakes, carb, etc so she should run like new. I have driven extensively in a 54 Ford, 53 Merc back in the 70's and they ran better that this so something is going on. " It does ride very smoothly on rough streets with potholes. Most of the rubber has been replaced and it has zero body squeaks so that is nice. The Dynaflow winds up and takes you down the highway in a dignified albeit moderate rate of acceleration - no complaints really. Brakes well enough. Not too noisy with the windows down. So it's not thrilling to drive but it's got a LOT of style and that's the point with these pre-sixties cars imho.

About 6 hours with the CLR, lunch and naps and other stuff. 15 minute dry time between coats.

Probably would but I doubt it would last very long in Texas heat.

I have looked at boiled linseed oil, clear coat etc and went with Zep Floor wax on my old original finish 1949 Roadmaster today. So, I thought I would share the process and results with the board. The car was pretty clean and I hit it with CLR and a Scotch Brite scrub sponge about three times to get off the old dirt and loose rust. The CLR is a mild rust remover at best but did what I wanted and was not too rough. Some folks use Bar Keeper's Friend and that is probably OK as well. This course just took off all the loose rust and dirt, It did not knock off any paint and I am glad of that. Once dried, I applied three coats of the Zep floor wax with a clean sponge. Many RV owners use the Zep on their rigs so this is where this idea comes from, I believe. I waxed this thing by hand back in 1985 just for grins when I was a mere child and it looked pretty good but time has degraded the paint even though it has been in a barn. The directions say to swirl it on your floor and that is probably best for the first coat but it does show swirl marks and long sweeps are probably better. It is forgiving with multiple applications that even it all out, more or less. I am wondering what a buffing will do. Before & after pictures follow. Some like the so-called patina some do not. I would love to paint it but I just don't think dropping $20k on body work and a paint job is wise. So I will enjoy her as she is for a bit and decide what to do next. What do you think??

Mr. Joe - many thanks - I will investigate and report back!

Unfortunately, the car is not stored at my home so I cannot jack it up to see if there is equal steering turns lock to lock as EmTee suggests BUT I had two older mechanics work on it and one did a front end alignment where we replaced everything but the center drag link (would not come off). One remarked on the steering wheel and said it could not be merely pulled off and re-positioned like some cars I have had (is that right??) So, I will break out the manual and review. the steering box info. I did drive it 25 miles today and it did well. It gave a bit of resistance at speed when I tried to push 70mph and surged a bit as if it just would not go over 70, but then it did and cruised along at 70 for most of the way. I have a rebuilt motor, tranny, brakes, carb, etc so she should run like new. I have driven 54 Ford, 53 Merc back in the 70's and they ran better that this so something is going on.

I have had my front end rebuilt so it is all tight but the steering wheel seems loose with a lot of play as I drive down the road. I can turn the steering wheel 15 degrees or so before it turns the wheels. So, I am constantly moving the steering wheel. What is the cause of this? I have not touched the steering box so I guess that needs attention? Also, my steering wheel sits at 90 degrees to the right when I am driving straight ahead. Not sure how to address that issue but I bet they are related. Any tips and advice will be most appreciated!

I heard about this thing called Uber the other day.

I KNEW I should have kept my mouth shut. 😨

Very Interesting story about this - I heard that the large parts supply kept in the basement under the supply house in Newton Upper Falls that was covered up, not filled in, and the mall was merely built on top of it. The entry to the basement with many NOS parts in it still is accessible thru a stairway next to the Cinnabon store. This may be just an internet rumor but I heard you can slip the janitor a twenty and he will let you bring out whatever you can carry. Bring a flashlight.

Thanks for the exploded view and advice. I just called Bob's and ordered the parts with express shipment. It's strange that the local parts stores all list them but they are just too thick,

OK - I know Bob's Automobilia has these but my car is up on the rack, broken apart and the O'Reily's seals are too thick. Same for other OTC shop seals. Does anyone have a part number or something that I could use to get the proper seals for my 1949 Roadmaster 76s at a neighborhood parts shop?

Here is a rare one for all you straight 8 fans. Seller is not sure what engine it fits but I bet a 320. Not cheap at $1199 but that is a nice polish job and these are RARE. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155065844281?hash=item241aa50239:g:6qgAAOSwbNZixRdJ

All weekend? You got off light. Somebody told me 40 years ago that outgoing young lads in the 50's would try and replicate this pattern by putting a 1st grader's pencil, eraser side out, in a drill bit and make the swirls with red rubbing compound. This stuff is quick in comparison! And it does look surprisingly good. I am sure that is on account of your care and accurate cuts. Was there an Exacto knife involved?

I'd put lights in in them and say it was done by Ned Nickles!

I agree with Joel and will add that when the latches are working properly, the hood will lift and disengage from both the rear and front latch when pulled and released from inside the car. You then can walk around to the hood slide your fingers in the opening and lift the hood. I am sure the engineers never imagined a woman servicing the car as the gas station attendants did that for you up until the oil embargo in 1970's. If the latches are not working like they should (the front ones like to stick), I stand outside the car, reach in the open door or window, pull the cable release, then insert the skinny end of a long transmission oil funnel into the gap, then release the cable. The funnel will hold the hood open while you walk around the door and open the hood. A piece of wood trim works to prop it open as does a long screw driver with a wooden handle. It does take some strength and long arms help a lot!

Got no bids at auction so now it's low-ball offers online. Looks like a nice car to me! https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1948-buick-roadmaster-109562

No! 🙄

Thanks - they gave me a decent quote I think - $110 for rear pair and $140 a pair front.

I was lucky to score some NOS Delco front shocks and one rebuilt rear one. I am still on the lookout for a drivers side rear for a reasonable price. She still lists a bit and my mechanic friend advised new springs since everything else has been attended to. She's a high mileage car as well as old and seen rough use as a ranch car. The old owner said it was nicer than a jeep, so why not?