Dan O

Thanks, Pete. I was over-thinking this. The WD-40 on the linkage at the end of the steering column did the trick.

Hello all - I had my Dynaflow removed and rebuilt and now when I move the shift lever it is hard to move from park all the way down to reverse and not smooth like it was. Can anyone tell me how to correct this or what's going on? The rebuilder is two hours away so I can't readily take it back to him.

Thanks again, Ben! I am afraid I will have to go to the shop and read the manual to these mechanics. It's in the car in their lot now or I'd dig into it myself. Do you or anyone else know if a 49 Roadmaster has a pedal adjustment? Would that be something addressed with the master cylinder replacement or...?

JF - Is the pedal travel adjustable? Sounds too easy. And what do you mean by "lost motion"

I had the wheel cylinders and master cylinder replaced in my 1949 Roadmaster this week by some young mechanics that just don't know drum brakes I found. They got it back together but there is a lot of travel in the brake pedal now. I press the pedal and it travels 6+ inches I guess before it starts engaging the brakes. It then will stop the car ok but the pedal is about three inches from the floor. I do not think they are spongy from air still in the lines but they feel soft too now. Is this travel because the brake linings are not adjusted properly now?

Another thing to figure when replacing a harness is when will you be repainting your engine compartment and components. You don't want to install a fresh harness only to remove it later when you get around to restoration/refurbishing. That slowed my purchase of a new harness many years. In the meantime, I never had an electrical issue that did anything that tape could not cure but was not really driving the car except a few miles at a time. I used some electrical tape. A LOT of tape. I really do love the new harness.

Old wiring on these cars is a cruel problem - you think you can just leave it alone, don't touch it, wrap it with some tape, dob on some liquid tape, etc. I have never had one catch fire (I have two 49's) but I was certainly happy when I replaced the entire wiring harness. They are not cheap but the ones from YnZ are well made and complete, plug n play so to speak.

Hans - As to clamp size, just measure your ducts - some are 6" and some are 4", I believe. I am not sure if some of mine were removed (doubtful) or if the factory was inconsistant in applying these. They are useful though with the replacement hoses that are more flexible. I bought the CARS clamps for 5/8" heater hoses thru Bob's Automobilia as I said above - they leaked and I could not tighten them enough. So test yours for leaks. Perhaps they fixed the design but they fit loose about a year ago.

YES, flair! That's the word! Now, I guess I'll need to order one online. Not many calls for metal fuel line fittings or gas space heater-type stoves anymore

I have been using an old Carter fuel filter with the stone filter element in my 1949 Roadmaster with Carter carburetor. I apparently striped the threads in the filter body as the fitting on the steel fuel line will no longer grip and stay in place. I ordered an AC brand from CARS aka oldbuickparts.com and was disappointed to find that the AC inlet is for a 1/8" male fitting while I had a 1/4" on the Carter. I found an adapter at Advance Auto parts but it is apparently incorrect as I cannot get a good seal. I applied a gasoline-tolerant thread compound that was supposed to not need setting when I put it together and tightened it all down. When starting, the filter-bowl fills up and supplies the carb. But it leaks badly at the adapter and female connector on the supply line. I think I must need a different type of adapter? I see now the threads on the adapter I bought are NPTF on the large inlet and NPTM on the outlet side - could that be it or is it something more fundamental like the need for a seat in the adapter? Anyone know where I can get one with a 1/4" inlet and 1/8" outlet like the Carter?

Here are some photos from the engine compartment of my 1949 Roadmaster convertible. I believe it is fairly original. It does not have clamps on all the fresh air ducts and does not appear to have used them in those places originally. Where I do see clamps they are band type clamps and are on passenger side, low. These hoses are really stiff compared to the replacements I got from Bob's - probably age but the replacements are very good but need clamps imho. I have used two-wire clamps on the air ducts of another '49 that needed the air hoses all replaced. I got them on Amazon (clicky). They look pretty good to me. Also here are photos of the clamps on the water lines that go to the heater and transmission cooler. Finally, the radiator hose clamps - these are not original and probably not correct. Be careful on ordering the heater hose clamps - I ordered a set from Bob's Automobilia and they were all too big. We had to cut them off and replaced with modern ones, I have not bothered sourcing any correct ones yet. I'd appreciate a source if anyone has one. Bob Carrubba told me he got the clamps he sold me that did not fit from CARS in NJ.

Hans, just buy it!! I asked the seller to add more photos. He is selling his deceased dad's cars he says. Apparently does not have a clue about selling on eBay or elsewhere. It's worth more that $7000 but we need to see the floor boards. Not running - a potentially cracked water jacket or bad Dynaflow knocks thousands off the price for me. Here is the new listing - https://www.ebay.com/itm/275742760574

Looks like just rust to me. The insulation probably fell down on the valve cover and rusted it like that. Mine was that bad once.

He's goofy on his sales pitch. Sounds like he has read too many Bring a Trailer ads BUT the car appears to be all there including the rear side moldings. That's a big plus. And it looks dry inside from what little you can see.

This ends in 21 hours - opening bid $15k. He has more photos that he sent me. Interior looks pretty good. No engine shots though. 1949 Buick Roadmaster 76S on eBay

Here is another 49 - a Roadmaster 76S on eBay now, He has more photos said it was his father's. Not much practical info though: 1949 76S For Sale

That is a great price for a car in that condition from what I we can see. But do I need three '49s??

I am going thru the vavuum lines on my 67 Eldorado and found a loose line that runs from some type of manifold on the upper left side of the radiator (see fmy finger pointing to the radiator connection) to my carb where it has a Y splitter (pointing again at Y with two srews in the lines as stoppers). I do not see where this should connect and can't readily find it in my shop manual. Any ideas? I see no open inlets/outlets on carb nor air cleaner.

Thanks for the real world experience with the Riviera. It does not really translate to a 49 with knee action shocks but thanks. This forum for Performance and Modified seems to not get many participants. The regular forum here is the GOLD standard for advice on old Buicks and has so many great participants (Old Tank especially). I made the same post in the HAMB Jalopy Journal and got some varied advice on lowering a car. They are a different group as you can see in the posts. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/advice-needed-on-lowering-a-1949-buick.1280126/ It appears fresh springs and lowering spindles from Fat Man are the way to go - at least for me. But my mind is subject to random meaningless changes.

OK. Thanks for the advice! I will not be getting a new frame though.

I am considering replacing my worn out springs with new lowering springs in my 49 Roadmaster. The front end has been rebuilt and it has 3 new Delco knee-action shocks. Running original drive-train with Dynaflow automatic transmission. I could swap out the rather tall Firestone tires with some www radials I have from Coker but I like a still lower look without going full airbag route. I have never lowered a car so what might I encounter with a 2" drop? Will the tires hit the fender wells a lot? Ride go to hell? Pumpkin hit the pavement? It has that wonderfully soft ride now. I have seen lower springs at Eaton and Shocks2Springs for $404 and $450 a pair respectively. From a similar post on Jalopy Journal I understand '79 to '84 GM G-Body car OEM shocks will lower it 3" in rear as will '69 GM truck springs. AND one can just cut the springs but that sounds like a bad ride, or is it??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124113189480?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1465&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=1f3db3bc4112475eb3d020a4e7704835&bu=43206861564&osub=-1~1&crd=20221109124532&segname=11051 $17.61 for ONE light bulb from JC Whitney. Not a pack of 10 as I hoped. Is this possible? Here is the reply I got when I asked: Thank you for getting in touch with Customer Care Center regarding the light bulb posted price. No worries, I can assist you with this! Upon checking, the light bulb posted price is for one bulb only. Thank you for your inquiry. Working with you, Alter C. Customer Service Representative

These were used on differnt makes besides Buicks but I agree with Ben.

If is is a spinning shaft, we discussed the fix for a spinning shaft last May 2021 and you, Steve, were involved. Here is the thread:

I put a small inline electric fuel pump right off my gas tank to push fuel to the rebuilt mechanical pump in my '49. It's a Chinese 6 volt pump and it works well. I have a momentary switch mounted under dash. I let mine sit for weeks and then the bowl empties. This makes it easy to fill and not drain down that precious six volt battery reserve and also avoid heating up my starter and wires. I put a hotrod-type clear inline filter back there in front of the electric filter as well. I also keep a can of starter fluid handy and use it on initial startups. It sure gets her going without a lot of hassle. Once warmed up, she starts good thereafter until I put her back to bed.