Dan O

Did you ever figure this out? Snowed in? Merry Christmas from Texas!

My guy uses these fellows for supplies - https://www.miamicorp.com/

Those latches are troublesome if not working right. Cable gets stretched and frayed. I have mine in great working order on my sedanete now after replacing cables and springs, lubing pulleys and latches. I used to have to give the hood release cable a strong jerk to get the latch to pop open. I keep a transmission funnel at hand to slip in the gap so I can open it by myself. If done right, they will pop open and stay open until you can walk around and open the hood.

Probably need to buy another on eBay. There seem to be a lot of "parts only" models on there for 49's. Shipping is prohibitive I guess. Never seen anyone sell parts from one in 20 years of eBay shopping.

Great looking wagon - those look correct to me.

I just returned this morning from my local radiator shop here in SW Houston with a re-cored radiator for my 49 Roadmaster convertible. Walter, the owner, has had his own shop, Anderson Radiator, since 1978. He could not fix mine so he ordered a new core from Maine Radiator to his specs. It ran $850 with tax. They are all made with better technology now - he said it is a three row radiator and has twice the cooling capacity as before. However, it looks the same to my untrained eyes. I paid the same for the same job on my 49 sedanete in the last year from another old radiator shop in Waco area. Another shop here in Houston wanted $1200 plus tax. This is the most surprisingly/disgustingly expensive thing I have run into in my projects. Some say you can go with aluminum but no radiator man has advised that to me. They clog up unless you have a super clean engine I have been told.

Here is a nice 1949 76S for sale on Craigslist - not mine https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/d/kansas-city-1949-buick-roadmaster/7686832643.html

SOOO, you're the culprit! 😉

Poor old car! Painted an ugly color, fitted with plaid set covers and then neglected!

Contact the seller of this alternator on eBay. He has a lot of stuff that is not listed online and may have one for you. Click here

I did not say I wanted to run the old tires to 70 mph. I just was asking for clarification on the roadability of older bias ply tires... Harumph!

I am not going to get them but here is a link to them on Facebook Market Place: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/871406034056224/ Seller supplied me with a lot of data besides what you see here.

I don't know much about old bias ply tires longevity so any info is appreciated. I have some great looking old Denman Classics with no apparent tread wear I think they date from, what, the 50th week of 1993? Or 1983? So, those are reliable at 70 mph?? I use one as a spare as you see,

They are L78-15 Coker Commanders.

1999? These tires look like they have not been driven many miles but 1999 was a long time ago for a tire - that changes the trade if I need to swap out tires. I have included a photo - are those actually Buick factory wheels?

OK, but is the bolt pattern going to match up from the newer '53-'54 wires to my older '49? And the '49 uses lug bolts that screw into the wheel hub - is that the same on the '53-'54 or a problem? I bet the '53-'54 has the lugs on the hub, right?

Greetings! Is the bolt pattern the same? I found a set of apparently OEM wire wheels with SKYLARK on the spinners and decent Coker bias ply tires mounted. I do not see any damage and the chrome is good. Tires are older - date code is "129" which I assume is 12th month of 2009 since they were mounted pre-2014. I think these would look great on my '49 convertible. And yes, I have read the discussions on here regarding truing the rims and balance and difficulty keeping clean but I have always wanted a set of wires on something!

bump If nothing for sale - anyone know a rebuilder?

Here are some photos. I have a fresh trunk lid in primer ready to paint and install. No rust issues, Runs and drives smoothly and stops nicely. One repaint in not so great shape. I do not really need to sell it and it will not be a steal but reasonable. More details available if you are interested in pursuing. if you Original dash paint and door panels

I can text some to you more easily but will send a few thru PM now. I am traveling for another week or so.

Maroon & tan?

Thanks, guys. I will give them a call. Also, if you ever need a starter or generator rebuilt, Joe's Starter & Generator Repair in Hewitt, Texas is really good. 254-666-7747. $75 to fix my starter that had some sort of short in it. Four day turn around.

I called one of the "old reliable" Buick parts houses today about their fuel pump rebuilding service for my 1949 320CI Roadmaster. They send your core out somewhere to get it done for $105 plus shipping both ways. The kits are $93.50 alone. Does anyone know where they are sending them? I'd rather not pay a middleman. And, I'd rather not have to do this myself at this price. Also, any sources for a decent rebuild kit? I am aware of Fusick, Kanter, Bob's and CARS.

The lubrication of the linkage fixed my problem and thanks for the tips. And I do have a rebuilt transmission and all new rubber mounts. NOW, I must replace the fuel pump before it hits 103 again here in Houston.

We re-adjusted the shoes as suggested above and got more pedal but found new brake line hoses were needed. There were definite restrictions in the hoses from old fluid. Fresh, open hoses helped balance the brakes as well. I the brakes are worked out now in this super hot & humid Houston summer. Next comes radiator repair. If you have a 1949 Buick, be aware there were two different hoses for the rear used at the factory - an early and a late. One is female, female and the other male, male. So take a look at what you have before you order. Bob's Automobilia has both.