hddennis

MaxwellFox, My 1917 Maxwell Commercial Chassis uses the passenger car linkage so I can't show you that as your truck is slightly different. My throttle lever when pulled causes the floor pedal to drop as well but the pedal works independently of the lever. I looked in my files and found these pictures of a 1921 truck and hope they might help you. Howard Dennis

TheMoneyPit, Thanks, I've added these to my files. Appreciate the help. Howard Dennis

TheMoneyPit, Could I trouble you for a closeup picture of the Maxwell lapel pin from your collection? I have book from 1917 showing it and other Maxwell merchandise. Thanks, Howard Dennis

maxwellfox, Appreciate the help, makes me feel a lot better about my engines oil system. Seems like these oldtimers followed the KISS strategy of design. Howard Dennis

Thanks, That makes a lot of sense. When I got no response on this question I went back to the garage and rechecked my valve chamber to look for drain holes and found none. I then checked the tappet travel wondering if they acted as pumps and brought the oil that was splashed on them from the crankcase up into the valve chamber. That was when I noticed that although I assumed the valve chamber was dry from lack of oil I now believe the oil has drained back past the tappets since the last time (months) I ran it as I noticed that the tappets were well lubricated in their bores when I moved them after their long winter's nap. If you ever run across your source of this information please post it here so I can save it to my files. Howard Dennis

Google image search turned up this interesting story. Okay race car fans, what the heck is a " Douglas Air Cooled"? Douglas aircraft engine? Howard Dennis https://www.worldofspeed.org/archive-blog-1/2018/9/7/oregons-own-the-duchess-only-woman-race-car-owner-promoter

Gary, Maybe you can help me out now. Checking my 1917 engine's valve chamber and am curious if you know anything about how tappets and valve stems get lubrication? There are no tubes nor can I find any way valve chamber is supplied with oil nor how it would return to oil pan? Howard Dennis

Thanks Lump, I'm all set now, appreciate the offer. Howard Dennis

You need to ask this in the Buick section. Howard Dennis Sorry My mistake

So they actually charge $700.00 to reline your clutch!!? Howard Dennis

Did you try calling them? That price seems insane for a strip of lining and some rivets and each car make pictures a different clutch. I doubt they would go to that much trouble to sell just the service. It's worth a phone call to check. Howard Dennis

mikeydog, don't know if this will help or not but found this online. Everytime it comes up in one of my Maxwell online searches the price goes UP?? Don't understand the sales tactic but here it is anyway: https://fortwayneclutch.com/product/cone-clutch-1916-maxwell-model-25-cone-clutch-refurbishing-skus-1916m_refurb/ Howard Dennis

It would be interesting to ask this question on one of the Model T Ford websites. All I can add is a few years ago I bought 4 new tubes for my 1917 Maxwell 30 x 3 1/2 size from one of the well known Ford suppliers and they were marked Made in China. I can't keep them inflated for more than 2 months without them loosing half the 60 pounds required. It has become a normal ritual to re-inflate the Maxwell's tires, my wife's bicycle and lastly before I put everything away I have to re-inflate the tires on my portable air compressor. Guess what they all have in common? China made tubes!! Howard Dennis

Andrew, are you talking about the script shown in this period photo? If so they show up on eBay on occasion. Most originals are steel but some earlier ones are brass and I think reproduction brass ones are available. http://www.brassauto.com/Year Badge Info.html Howard Dennis

I'm trying to locate the current owner of a 1913-14 Maxwell 50-6 . The 2007 Maxwell Registry lists a Kenneth Lawrence of La Selva, Ca. . From what I can find there are only 2 survivors of this model and I know of the one in New Zealand but want to contact the owner of the one last known in the U.S. . Howard Dennis

https://www.etsy.com/listing/910333248/peerless-motor-car-company-pressed?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=old+car+part&ref=sr_gallery-2-39&organic_search_click=1&frs=1 Howard Dennis

I Googled it first under Google books and it is listed in a lot of period automotive literature as a starter/ lighting unit. No specific make car is listed so I assume it was an aftermarket kit for unequipped cars. I didn't try any farm journals. Howard Dennis

Not mine just hoping someone can use a good deal: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-GRAY-DAVIS-DYNAMO-Antique-Auto-Lighting-Generator/264954725150?hash=item3db088431e:g:w7cAAOSwoB1fNyPz Howard Dennis

Not mine just hoping someone can use a good deal: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-Carburetor-DRJH-0-DRJH-O-Brass-Bowl-UPDRAFT-CARBURETOR/264962658774?hash=item3db10151d6:g:elQAAOSwMJZfuF~Y Howard Dennis

First off, Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I have the manifolds off now to chase a pesky oil leak so until that is done and reassembled I can't apply and test your suggestions. As mentioned during the rebuild the valves and springs were replaced with New Old Stock so I think that isn't the problem. Mixture if anything is a little rich for my taste but hard to address properly until engine is running smoothly. When it's running again I plan to add Marvel Mystery oil and purchase an infra red thermometer and test that as I think it will at least point me in the right direction. I tried the plug wire search in the past but didn't get a definitive result but I was doing one at a time and will see now if I can find the strongest cylinder as per your instructions. Howard Dennis

Thanks TerryB, but wouldn't this just show a weak cylinder as far as compression goes? I've worked on this engine enough over the years to know that all cylinders have decent compression, exact figures I don't know but all four are strong. The valves and springs are all new and the settings are correct. Howard Dennis

Years ago on another forum as a novice I was told the only stupid question was the one that wasn't asked. I'd like to test that theory. Several years ago after getting my 1917 Maxwell running to my satisfaction I put it into winter storage. When I went to restart it in the spring it wouldn't run worth a darn. Pretty sure my problem then was an almost trashed brass K D carburetor due to ethanol gas. I've never been able to get it to run right since. I'm fairly certain I've managed to cure all my ignition ills in the Atwater Kent distributor after battles with both original AND new parts. I've gone through three different brands of period carburetors used on Maxwell's and have finally returned to another K D carburetor that seemed to solve the problem and run decently for a short period but now I noticed while walking back into the garage some light missing from the running car's exhaust. History on this engine: It was totally rebuilt in the 1960's by a cost no object wealthy owner. When I acquired it the motor was the only restored part and had never been run until several years ago. Here's my stupid question, could my intermittent miss possibly be a sticking valve and how do I pin that down as the problem? The engine still doesn't have more that 2 hours running time since the 1960's rebuild and this crazy miss is totally random. Any suggestion as to a scope or instrument that would allow me to pin down the cylinder and the eliminate the possibility that it could still be fuel or ignition related? Howard Dennis