Bill Reichert

I don't know what year or model of Caddy is similar to the TC but there was one parked next to mine years ago. I was going to insert the key when I realized it was too wide and too high. The color was a close match to Royal Cabernet. One of my TCs was repainted by the po with that color.

I have a number of Dodge and Chrysler turbo cars. If the trunk floor was rusted through, I recommend your check the front of the floors. They are VERY prone to rusting through. Especially where the E brake cable goes through the floor. If the car lived in the rust belt north, you may have serious rust in that area. I'm currently repairing the rust in a Daytona with moderate rust. Hole on both sides of the floor. I think the TC had more protection than the average Chrysler but it would be wise to see just how bad the underside is. I have seen pics of resto's where the integrity on the car is questionable without new steel welded in. The K frame in the front can also be in peril from rust.

Maybe a little PB BLaster on the socket to loosen it. Unplug the wire and wiggle and rotate. You have the broken one so you know what it looks like. The one that I replaced in the accident was already rusted and broken. The bulb is part of the black plug. The housing is white. I don't know which bulb it was but I had to unplug the wire before the socket had clearance to rotate.

I think there is one for sale right now around Az. Just needs engine and transmission. It was mentioned on Turbo-Mopar.

GregTC sounds like a Chicago or Detroit special.

I like the Pirelli tires. They don't wear as well, but I like the soft ride and they stick better wet and dry. The new TC I got last fall has Goodrich and they aren't bad. I think the Pirelli would minimize the "cowl shake" with the softer sidewalls.

I made the same mistake on the cornering light? The socket IS PART of the bulb. I never saw one like that before. "I have to use tweezers to get the old bulb out of the cornering light"

G&G I like that! Now I have 3 reasons to add a 3 car garage! Keep all 6 cars out of the weather, add a full hoist, (I'm 70 and still change my oil) have a hardtop hoist or 2 in the ceiling. Now how do I pay for it? I had a new customer last week and knew before I met him that we would get along. He had a 5 car garage. After I was done he showed the his Cobra replica with a 429 Ford bored and stroked to 469. He said he was racing and a Lotus 7 blew by him like he was standing still. So....he bought a Lotus 7 kit. Supercharged 3.8 GM engine. He said that was so easy. All he had to do was form some aluminum for behind the seats and drop the drive train in. I never did see the pick of the litter at Hunter Farms. Hunter Engineering as in hoists, alignment racks, etc. He had 6, 4 car garages at the house! The lesser cars were kept at the factory.

l have to do that for my wife's winter and summer TC's. I got the one that got side swiped by a fire truck back together and backed it out of the way so I could work on the MF garden tractor on father's day. It's 29 years old. We celebrated FD on Saturday.

Jury rigging?

The TC had a minor accident and is a pain to get replacement parts lined up. My wife totaled a Volvo with the Town and Country 10 years ago. The Town and Country took about 2 days to replace parts. If the bumper shock mount had not shattered, it might have just been a scratched bumper on the Town and Country. I'm on 3 weeks on the TC. I should have written down the sequence of removing parts since there are so many little pieces. Anyway, the body work is done. Just the driver's mirror to replace. For some reason, I had a spare. I'm glad, I repaired the original mirror 2 weeks before the accident. I would have been really upset if the perfect mirror had been smashed!

Salt City (Chicago) is not the friend of aluminum radiators. (eek) Chris's radiator is probably heavier than a lot of the new cheap parts though.

That and the cornering bulb that goes on with the turn signals. It is an 881 halogen. I just looked at the TC owners manual. I calls for a dual element. WRONG. Don't know what the original was but it is 1156 single element now. I threw in a new 552 flasher just for the heck of it. I picked up some electrically conductive paint for the 3rd brake light problem just for the heck of it. That part must have been designed by the British company Lucas (the PRince of Darkness)

Well I guess I look like a fool. Ghosty is correct. The 2 bolts were really corroded. I had to keep turning each bolt back and forth to clean the rust off and prevent breaking them even with PB Blaster. All the other stuff I did was nonsense except treating some parts for corrosion. All the front lights are now working. Sincerely The FOOL PS I used to rebuild the old player pianos. I had one that really was designed wrong and the third time I tore it down, I analyzed every thing about it and discovered it NEVER did work. After correcting that problem, it worked fine.

Hopefully the LAST post on this. The bulbs listed in my owner's manual are WRONNGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG The parts store still have the wrong number! On the Yahoo site I found a post for parking lights as 67 bulb. Turn signal 1056. Ghosty and G&G your bulbs must have been changed before or the factory caught the mistake before yours were made. Or they were involved in bumper benders. Going back to parts store for 3rd time.......

On mine there is a metal bracket around the housing. The bracket has to come out with the housing. The bracket is screwed to a stainless piece behind the bracket. The screws are hidden by the.......bumper mount. It appears that someone else went before you.

Well the bolts were allen head. Then there are 2 phillips head machine bolts to remove. They were seized. Steel bolts going through stainless steel to steel. Did I mention I had the bumper OFF? These 2 bolts were seized so I drill them out with a high torque slow speed drill. I'm going to replace these with pop rivets that will be easier to remove in the future. You also have to remove the bumper mount on the bumper to get to one of the screws! I checked and the lens is glued on to the plastic housing so this is ALL necessary! Summary: BAck out 2 allen head bolts that are accessed through hole under bumper. Remove 4 bolts holding bumper on car. Slide bumper out 4" so you can unplug all light connections to bumper. Remove bumper! Remove bolts that hold bumper to bumper mount on car. Drill out 2 rusted phillips machine bolts. Replace all 4 2057 bulbs in these 2 housings. (Unless you like unnecessary work in the future) Apply LOTS of dielectric grease to all electrical connections. Pop rivet where the 2 Phillips machine screws were or get new metric machine screws. (Ace Hardware) If you do this apply something to prevent rust! Install bumper mount back on bumper. Slide bumper back in place. Install of 4 bolts. Drink a fifth of your 101 Wild Turkey diluted with Hawaiian Punch. Or pay a mechanic for 3 hours labor for replacing 4 bulbs!

At the St. Louis Easter show some have an easel with info about the car.

It looks like the housing unbolts from underneath. There are 2 star shaped bolts that can be seen in you look up through the holes. My problem is that the holes are NOT lined up with the bolts! Enlarging the plastic is no problem but there is a metal piece that also needs to be enlarged. Another question is the multi-prong fitting there. What does that do? I also discovered a totally rusted out plug for the cornering light. It would be a good idea to smear dielectric grease in all those front light plugs.

Hard top on stand and soft top down? Just my guess.

I now know how the bumper and front fenders go on and how to fit them properly. I had to coax the front bumper mount back on the left side since the fire truck was going faster and pulled the bumper forward. Always nice to have a 20 lb. hammer handy!:eek: It's nice to have a parts car also? I did some rust treatment while I was in there.

That's Turbo-Mopar. There is a fake site from quite a few years ago without the dash that is useless.

I don't know about the V6 but on the 4 you need to bleed air out of the cooling system. There is a plug at the the thermostat housing, that needs to be loosened to let the air out as you fill the rad. A lot of times the plug is corroded in place..... If that is the case...you can drill a 1/16th " hole in the top of the thermostat to let the air past. I'm guessing the brown is rust..... which means the heater might be clogged. Since you live in LA, that should not be a problem.If the green is at a seam, you might be able to cure that yourself. I used a propane torch years ago after paying to have a leak fixed 3 times. I just melted the solder and cleaned it out to clean copper and re-soldered the seam.

That reminds me of test driving a Datsun 2000 Fair Lady back in 67? The top would not latch and the console lid kept popping open and the glove compartment dropping open. The salesman was doing well holding the roof down and closing the other two items till they popped open at the same time and he let go of the roof. I had to grab that at 50 mph to keep it from self destruction. When I see a Nissan ad I am known to say "A Datsun is a Datsun no matter what you call it."

Firstly, I found the stud gun fun for pulling dents from 2 1/2" hail a couple years ago. It works great. As for the accident, a Fire truck got the left front of the hail damaged car that my wife uses in the winter. Gotta save the perfect one for salt free driving! I have the parts from a parts car. The strange thing is that the fender I'm putting on is from Ca. that I bought for the parts car about 6 years ago. So this is the third car for this fender! If someone is having a front fender shipped, I would recommend using duct tape for at least a 1x2 board that will stick out 1" further at the top front and rear of the fender. Use LOTS of duct tape! These two corners are very tender. The first fender received was bent at the rear, the second was bent at the front corner! Break time is over and it's time to do some rust proofing and start installing the good parts.