Bill Reichert

Very simple check... pull the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator. Sniff for gas odor. If the fpr leaks, it can throw the map off!

My wife is getting a new Daytona brake system in her TC. (Other goodies also.) I now know what a Blessed Christmas is! My mechanic was back in his shop yesterday for the annual Christmas Eve luncheon. He has beaten bone cancer and it is GONE. His grandson is a mechanic there. His brother the chief of police was there and well as his daughter that handles the bookwork and his nephew that played Christmas songs on the xylophone. I believe I am his longest customer at 54 years of relying on him and his mechanics. Twice he was almost libeled by TV stations that were sloppy in their work. Then the newspaper wrote a 1/2 page article implying that the Catholic Church dropped the ball when he didn't get into the seminary. A stubborn guy that won't let you have your car back till he likes the way it works. I guess prayer works when you have people from every religion bugging God to do something.

We need an emoticon for me banging my head into a wall!

I just pulled the seat belts in one and they have a cable running there. No electrical connection though.

As carnival workers say, every civilian is a turkey.

While you are back there, replace the rubber fuel lines and filter. Definitely wait till warm weather! If you want a free piano tuning in Texas let me know. I'll just charge for travel expenses! I blew a deal a long time ago with Busch Entertainment to tune the piano in Florida. Fly down on corporate jet, tune the piano, and spend a couple days once a month!

I was taking a break when I saw your post. I still have to install the right rotor and caliper and then bleed. (the brakes) Please don't try to rotate the flare nuts on the trailing arm steel line. My experience is on a 41,000 mile car with surface rust only on some parts like the trailing arm! No body rust.

Good post at the perfect time. There are FOUR hoses. 2 on each side. One on each side at the swing arm pivot at the rear, one that you saw at the caliper! I am finishing up the job of replacing them. The ONLY flare nut that will rotate on the steel line is the one at the front of the trailing arm. I tried to get the others loose while they were on the car and after I got them off. You have to start with the caliper flex hose. goggles are advised. At the front of that hose, heat with a torch till the hose blows off. Have a fire extinguisher handy. OR just use a small propane flame. Once the hose blows off you can rotate the flex line fitting off the steel line easily. Then go to the front hose. Heat the rear fitting for that hose till the rubber line blows off. Rotate the steel line off the off the flex hose fitting. Go the the front of that flex line. Rotate the flex hose off the steel line. NOTICE!!!!!!!!!!!! I say rotate the flex line fittings off the steel line! You will not get the flare nuts loose except for the front of the front line to rotate. Not doing it this way means you will probably twist the steel line and need to replace it also! Also remove the bracket on the swing arm that holds the brake line and the abs sensor wire during disassembly. REASSEMBLY Start at the front hose. Insert the front hose in the bracket and install the clip. The clips and hoses are made so that the hose only goes in the clip in one position. If you look you will see it is part hex and part rounded. When it pops in the bracket, install the clip. Then attach the steel lines. Go to the rear of that hose and install it in the bracket that bolts to the swing arm. Rotate the STEEL line onto the flex hose. Go the the rear of that steel line and rotate the flex hose onto the steel line. NOTES You will have to bend the steel line on the trailing arms some to be able to rotate it on the front flex line. Take a picture of before you start. The front flex lines are interchangeable. The rear flex lines at the caliper are not! When you take the parts out of the boxes, identify the calipers and the rear flex hoses as right or left. Same for the outer brake pads. Inners are the same? My calipers had rotted dust boots. I replaced the calipers also. I also had to tap the outer pad into place?! They were Raybestos pads and a little too thick to slide in the the inner pads in place. There was plenty of clearance to slip over the rotor even with this oddity. HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Master cylinder is going bad and I won't install a rebuilt master on anyone's car much less my own. There might be a good rebuilder but I'm not going to find out.

Could also be the knock sensor trying to save the engine! Definitely get it checked. Post up where you are for a mechanic that knows the engines.

email Tryingbe at Yahoo.com.

OK. I guess it's farther towards the car center than other Mopars. I wasn't too happy and it was cold.

Where are the jack points. I was expecting pins on the rocker panel like other cars of this vintage. They weren't there last night.

Let me know if you are interested. A friend has it. I will send you his email if interested. Good headlights. Damage to rf and engine has been pulled. Interior is toast. It's going to the crusher with many good parts THREAD CLOSED

As on old geezer, I would say the master cylinder is going bad. Buy a NEW one. Rebuilt units will not give you the warning you are getting right now. They just go to the floor when you need them the most. NEVER use a rebuilt master cylinder. NEVER>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>NEVER^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^NEVER use a rebuilt master cylinder! NEVER

Don't ask how I know that stuff is flammable if you don't wait a few seconds for it to evaporate! Don't worry, it was an old garden tractor. Just give it some time to evap.

I just found some under the Jaguar number for 205 shipped.

If your city doesn't salt the roads for snow you should be good. You might find the a water leak at the top of the windshield on each side which is cured with a little bit of foam weatherstripping there. You might want someone in US to check for rust before buying. Some of these cars have moved from our rust belt up north to Florida. My wife and I just met a young couple 25 or so from Milan on Oct 4! They have been here for 3 years in St. Louis.

WHAT BRAND hall effect processor did you install. Some are bad out of the box! Digger is right on in his last post about the idle air motor.

In addition to our wonderful resident Hemi, there is MINIMopar site and the knowledge center on Turbo-Mopar. DamnTheTorpedos problems right now. Of course there will always be the impossible problems to be traced down! Three of those that I have had are: a corroded bullet connector in the wiring under the battery with no protection, bad splice in the ground wire going to the alternator, fuel pump wire broken where it goes from from inside the body to the fuel pump. BOOKMARK the 2 sites above. Minimopar is a Motorola engineer in Chicago by the way. Yay Motorola! On a side note, I think the Az heat must be good for the brain?! Aside from Hemi, I met a young man from there that showed me how to calibrate a new chip for the ECM. I am just a dabbler that has had turbo mopars since 1987. I'm still learning from the whiz kids that weren't even born when these cars were new! I might even mention that you can get a destroked crank to reduce the stroke to 2 liters and titanium rods for an engine that would make the TC feel like it had a Masi engine. Of course the rods are in excess of $1,500 each.

Yep. Most of these would have been junked without forums to help each other.

I think its the studs for the exhaust manifold. Cylinder 1 and maybe 2. If the head needs to be milled flat, the intake and exhaust needs to be removed. sorry about that, I always leave things out. some times the studs back out instead of the nut coming off the stud. the mechanic will know what to use.

Someone that is coming to recalibrate an engine for me says he has no problem with the new felpro. He has run the 1/4 mile at 102 mph with a Felpro gasket. If you want to sleep well at night, get the one I listed above. He actually sold his last MP gasket for $70 and bought the Felpro for $17.

From Al Gore and the interweb? \ We are saved at the last minute. Replacement for the Mopar Performance head gaskets. "I ordered some 005 headgaskets from my dealer and got #5281064 instead. Parts guy said it is the same as 005, just under this number. They arrived the other day and sure look the same as 005." It is also for the cross drilled heads. Don't worry about what the means if you don't know. It is $40 and carries a 12 month warranty. I'm happy because I'm putting an engine together and can't find my last 006 and somebody is coming to recalibrate the computer next week. these are getting scarce also. Closest one to Mo. was 250 miles away and it's one the way here.