Pete Phillips

Photos, first group.

I and several other North Texas Chapter members will be heading for Salado tomorrow. I will try to post photos of the cars during the meet, assuming the weather cooperates, so check back on this thread for updates. I think there will be a pretty good turn-out. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

There is a very active chapter of the Buick Club of America in Rhode Island and eastern Massachusetts--the Minuteman Chapter. They will be hosting the Buick Club's national meet in Danvers, Massachusetts in July of 2011, and it would be wonderful to have a '52 Roadmaster in attendance. Pete Phillips Head Judge, 2011 BCA National Meet

Methinks the guy who didn't want to receive the Bugle magazine with his newly activated BCA membership is actually enjoying it now (wink-wink, ahem...)...

Not my car, and I have no connection with this, but ran across it this morning on Craig's List. 1937 Buick 2-Door Sedan Is on the O.K.C. Craig's List, but located in southern Missouri. Looks like a pretty solid and complete car from the photos. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

Couple of additional photos.

I attended a flea market in Fort Worth, Texas today and was surprised at how many old Buicks were for sale there: 1965 SportWagon with factory A/C, power windows, 4-bbl. V8 in decent shape, but the paint was a bit weak, $7000. 1969 Riviera, same condition as the above car, $6500, probably an older restoration. 1962 Special 4-dr. sedan with 198 V-6 and rare 3-speed stick shift, running, driving car in gray primer, $2000. 1939 Special 4-dr sedan, very nice running, driving car with wrong wheels & '53 wheelcovers, "sold" sign on it when I got there 1972 Skylark red convertible, 350-4-bbl., had GS hood and GS red stripes on rocker moulding, bench seat, but no "GS" badges on it anywhere that I could see. It's hard to know when these are the real thing or a clone. Very nice car, $21,000 price and still there at end of the day. 1954 Super 4-dr. sedan, totally original, unrestored car from a local estate, still titled in original owner's name, not running and had some fender & bumper damage at left front, no rust anywhere that I could see, very solid floors, showing 40,000 miles which I believe to be correct, engine turns with effort, needing paint, driver's seat upholstery, and it has no power steering (ugh!), asking $2000. This one was very tempting because it is such a time warp; been sitting since 1977. Has 1953 wheel covers. I also saw a '56 Special convertible, no top and missing a few trim parts, but solid with new black paint & slightly incorrect upholstery, no price. Enjoy the photos. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

A 1987 LeSabre 4-dr. sedan with over 200,000 miles on it ought to be under $750 to purchase. Anything more than that, and as Mike says, you can get a better car with lower mileage. They do last 200,000 miles without an engine rebuild if they have been taken care of and not abused, but I've not heard of very many with more than that amount of mileage. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Can't believe no one has answered this question yet, so I'll attempt to. Just watch--I'll unintentionally give some wrong info, and then there will suddenly be 10 others jumping in and telling me how wrong and stupid I am... It's been a few years since I worked on a '36 Buick. Have you dug around on the trunk floor to see if the gas tank straps are bolted to the bottom of the trunk floor? I've encountered that on some cars, but can't remember if the '36 Buick is that way. If you can't see a bolt or nut anywhere else under the car, that may be where they are. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX.

The best thing to do would be to tell people where it is located, so they know whether it is half a continent away from them, or just down the road in the next town. We know it's not in Ohio so that only leaves 49 other states and all of the Canadian provinces.... PUT COMPLETE INFO IN YOUR AD!

My suggestion is that you join the Buick Club of America (BCA) and put a "parts wanted" ad in the monthly magazine. You might be surprised at the response you get. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

The Bugle, by contract with the printer, is mailed on the 4th of each month, which means most members in the U.S. receive them the second week of each month. The contract gives the printer a day or so of leeway, in case the 4th falls on a Sunday or a holiday, which is the case this time (Easter Sunday is the 4th). So, I don't expect the April issue to even hit the mail until Monday the 5th, which is okay. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Bugle Editor

Thanks to all who responded, especially Kris. Replacement speedometer is located. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

I have the bracket with three attaching holes, the diaphragm, the chain and plastic wheel the chain runs around, and the rubber hoses. $25 will get it to you with postage paid by me. Pete Phillips 314 N. Walnut St. Sherman, TX 75090

I have a used one off of a 1970 Electra 455. Will that work? Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

$15 apiece plus postage, or all for $60 plus postage. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

I have some '63 Wildcat body parts for sale; will fit 1963 LeSabre, too. The trunk lid has two or three pea-sized rust holes in each rear corner, which can be repaired. The right front fender has a 1" by 2 or 3" hole right behind the lower wheel opening, in a flat area, also can be repaired without too much problem, with some fiberglass matting. No dents in either of these. I need the room, so $40 plus shipping for either one, or save some $ and pick them up here in northern Texas. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

My '62 Electra's speedometer self-destructed a couple of weeks ago. Started screeching while I was driving it, and the needle went crazy, went way beyond 120, disappeared, and never came back. Today I finally dismantled the dashboard and pulled it out, and not only is the needle broken, but the center point around which it pivots is out of its hole and looks to be ruined. Does anyone have a used speedometer assembly they could sell me? The only thing more frustrating than this, is that I may have to replace the odometer as well, and it reads 25,xxx on this low-mileage car. Any leads appreciated. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Tx

Yes, carefully pry out the wiper switch, then there is another chrome nut, like the one that holds the light switch, that you turn with a large, flat-bladed screwdriver. Pete Phillips

I have a couple of N.O.S. wheels for one of those, and I think they are 18". Can check if you are interested. Pete Phillips

Behind the dash, on the side of the headlight switch, there is a little button, about the size of the push-button on the top of a ballpoint pen. Push the button down while you pull out the knob and stalk of the headlight switch. Then, take a wide, flat-bladed screwdriver, insert it into the hole where you removed the headlight knob, and unscrew the little chrome fitting that holds the headlight switch against the back of the dashboard. If I remember right, the wiper switch has a similar screw that holds the assembly to the back of the dash. You have to pry out the wiper switch button and lever carefully. The ignition switch is held against the dash by four screws, all of which have to be accessed from behind the dashboard. I'll wait to answer the rest after I look at the '55 Century tomorrow that I am restoring. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

It's too confusing for me, sorry. I'm usually fairly decent at diagnosing cranking system electrical problems. You've made too many changes from what is supposed to be correct for that car, and I can't understand why you have made them, because that is obviously what is now giving you the problem. Seems to me the easiest fix is to install a wire from the battery terminal on the voltage regulator to the amps gauge, and try it then. I know the modified car guys will take offense, but in my opinion, when you start making changes from the way Buick wired the car up originally, you are simply asking for more problems. DO IT THE WAY THE MANUAL SAYS! Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas 1948 Roadmaster 1949 Super wagon 1950 Roadmaster 1959 Electra 1962 Electra 225 1963 Wildcat conv.

Joel, Yes, you can remove the rear end and transmission while leaving the torque ball joint intact, provided you remove the cross member that supports the rear of the transmission. I'm not sure I would want to try to line up the repaired transmission (with entire rear end and torque tube assembly attached to the trans.) with the back of the engine, though. Could be a bit difficult to manage, though some might think pulling and lining up the engine with the front of the transmission is just as difficult (not me). I presume you don't need to paint or detail your 401 or your inner fenders/firewall, which would give another excuse to pull the engine? P.S.: Where in Texas are you--near enough to join the North Texas Chapter??????? Would love to see some of that fleet you have. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas 1948 Roadmaster sedan 1949 Super Estate Wagon 1950 Roadmaster 2-dr. ht. 1959 Electra 2-dr. ht. 1962 Electra 225 4-dr. ht. 1963 Wildcat conv. 4-spd. Sherman,Texas

Roger, At an asking price of $21,000, I don't think it will get sold anytime too soon, either. Engine sounded very good, all lights work, and the sheet metal is in amazing condition. Here's another Chickasha photo--LOTS of old stationary engines. Pete

Here is a 1928 model 48, I believe, 6-cylinder business coupe (no back seat), for sale for $9700 if I remember correctly. This is a superb swap meet for Pre-World War Two cars and parts and restoration supplies. Look for an article in the Buick Bugle soon. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338