Pete Phillips

A very nice Buick. Nice to see a correctly painted oil filter cannister! Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Mike, Go ahead and send it. Another guy told me a week ago that he would buy it, but I've received nothing from him, so first check to arrive gets this. Pete Phillips 314 N. Walnut St. Sherman, TX 75090

Do you have the bell housing located properly on the back of the engine? Maybe it is rotated one bolt hole too far? It is easy to do when you are on your back underneath the car and can't see what you are doing. Something pretty obvious is very wrong, to cause that much of a tilt. Pete Phillips

Color #49-09 is Regency Blue as a previous responder noted. It shows up in text on my 1949 paint chart, but I had to go to a 1948 paint chart to see it in color (so it is a 1948 color, also), and it is a very, very dark blue which almost looks black. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 1949 Super Estate Wagon and others...

I have some photos of a 1971 LeSabre 2-door hardtop with very low mileage, but do not have any of the convertible. Will these help? Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

I agree with "Dynaflash 8" and with the comments about GM not building brand or name loyalty by foolishly dumping its well-respected, high quality car names that people could identify, e.g.: LeSabre; Park Avenue; Riviera. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

And they ( the new 1936-1938 Buick Club) put out a nice magazine, too. I just received my copy and it has a beautiful, full-color photo of a 1936 Buick on the cover. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, TX

I took the carburetor apart on the '37 Buick today, and half of the leather cup on the accelerator pump was missing--just disintegrated. That, and most of the spark plugs had too big a gap. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

I have a left front fender with cornering light cutout for a 1971 Electra, Centurion, or LeSabre, but I'm not sure if it will fit '73. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

I have a 1967 Buick Riviera owner's manual, plus the owner's protection plan booklet and the warranty certificate, all for a '67 Riviera. The owner's manual has some dark stains on the cover, unfortunately, but the interior pages are fine (56 pages). Will sell all of these for $20 and I will pay the postage if it is within the USA; more for foreign addresses. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas pphillips922@earthlink.net

This is a good used, 6-volt generator for a 1941, 1942, 1946, 1947, or 1948 Buick Super or Special. Does not fit the Roadmaster, according to parts book. I have taken this apart, cleaned, and lubricated it, as it had been sitting for quite some time, but the bushing and the brushes are fine and do not need replacement. $65 plus shipping cost. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 314 N. Walnut St. Sherman, TX 75090 pphillips922@earthlink.net

I believe I have located a set of hood prop rods for this car now, thanks to a BCA member who responded to this post. Pete

This is an early 1960s Studebaker 259 V-8 engine that was in a Studebaker pickup truck. It is complete, turns over, has compression, and is very clean under the valve covers; no sludge at all. It has the 2-barrel carburetor and an oil bath air cleaner that looks like the one that was on my '64 Commander, so I think this engine is from a 1961, 1962, 1963, or 1964 Studebaker. Located in Sherman, Texas which is north of Dallas. $450. I'd prefer it to be picked up here, but I can put it on a pallet and tie it down if need be. Pete Phillips pphillips922@earthlink.net Sherman, Texas

Shaun, I have the same exact problem with a 1937 Special that I am working on. I think the problem is in the carburetor. I am going to take it apart, clean it out, and rebuild it this week, and will let you know what the result is when I get it back together. I'd be willing to bet that one of your internal carburetor passages is blocked with crud. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

I am working on a friend's 1937 Special, preparing it for sale later on. It is missing the braces or prop rods that hold each side of the hood open, and it is missing the clip that holds this brace when not in use. If anyone has an extra set of these, I would like to buy them, if reasonably priced. Thanks. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas I'll attach a photo of the car, which is very, very solid and rust-free.

If you think that price is unrealistic (and I certainly do), there will be a 1954 Roadmaster convertible in the December issue of the upcoming Bugle for $225,000! Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

I don't know where Feeding Hills is, but area code 413 is western Massachusetts. The engine looks like the big 320. Pete Phillips

Howard, My hat is off to you! Thanks very much! Pete Phillips Sherman, TX

1963 Mercury Comet or 1962-63 Mercury Meteor. Pete Phillips SHerman, TX

A friend with several antique cars sent me these photos of a part he is trying to identify. It may not even be an automobile part, but it seems to be some sort of fuel regulator. Can anyone shed some light? Pete Phillips Sherman, Texas 1948 Buick Roadmaster sedan 1949 Buick Super station wagon 1950 Buick Roadmaster 2-dr. ht. 1956 Studebaker Golden Hawk 1958 Rambler Ambassador 4-dr. ht. station wagon 1959 Mercury Park Lane 4-dr. ht. 1959 Buick Electra 2-dr. ht. 1962 Buick Electra 225 4-dr. ht. 1963 Buick Wildcat conv. 1964 Rambler American 2-dr. ht.

Looked at it just now, and there are four little screws that point towards the outside of the car. They are located just below the fuzzy window beltline weatherstrip. I think if you take off the metal cap from the top of the interior quarter panel, you can reach them. In addition, there are three metal clips at the outside bottom of the moulding. For lack of a better term, they are almost like paper clips, and they clip into the bottom of three openings in the body sheet metal. Therefore when removing this moulding, do not try to pry it away from the side of the car, but rather push it straight up. This is the only way you will get the clips out of the holes. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

There is one on Ebay right now, looks to be in very nice, original, unrestored condition, 4-dr. sedan with the Self-Shifter, not running, but been garaged, from an old man's estate, looks like it would not take much to get it running, very reasonable price when I last checked. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas

I have one of these, too, same exact thing, so if anyone in the Texas/Oklahoma area needs one, I will sell it, and I don't think I'm competing with Greg, given how difficult these are to transport! Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman,Texas

17 years ago, I bought and restored a very low mileage 1954 Chevrolet 210. It was totally stock, except that the original owner had converted it from 6 volts to 12 volts in order to install a modern air-conditioner system in it sometime in the early 1960s. I fixed some light collision damage, repainted it in the original colors, installed correct new upholstery, replated the chrome, put new wide whitewall tires on it, and generally made the car dependable for daily use. It had 39,000 miles and had been a local car since new. When it came time to sell it, I took it to swap meets and to an antique car auction in Fort Worth. I will never forget the man who looked it over for a long time, loved it, and was all ready to buy it for my price (we were down to discussing the logistics of how to get it to his house, etc), when I told him it had been converted to 12 volts. Suddenly, he lost all interest in it, and walked away. I ended up selling the car many months later for much less than I had in it. I will never convert a 6-volt car to 12 volts. Never. When you do that, you ruin it, as far as I'm concerned. You lose part of the uniqueness and charm and character of what makes antique cars such a great experience. I feel the same way about people who put modern engines in old cars. If that's what you want, then go buy a new car, and stop making irreversible changes to the original old ones that are still left. Okay, now I'll get off of my soapbox. Sorry, but you touched a raw nerve. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Sherman, Texas 1948 model 71 1949 model 59 1950 model 76-R 1959 Electra 2-dr. 1962 Electra 225 4-dr. ht. 1963 Wildcat conv. 4-spd.

If I remember correctly, it just pries off. There may be a couple of screws that you access from inside the car, by rolling the window ALL the way down. I can't recall if there are some, but if there are, they are very short, and they point towards the outside of the car. I have an extra one of those stainless mouldings in my garage, and will look at it tomorrow to see if there are screw holes "over the fold". I think you have to remove the lower backglass moulding FIRST. The lower backglass moulding slips underneath the quarter window moulding, and if I remember correctly, the clip that holds both mouldings has to be unscrewed after you remove the lower backglass moulding. That one is removed by crawling into the trunk on your back, and reaching up through the back edge of the package shelf with a 3/8ths or 7/16ths (can't recall which) deep socket, and unscrewing the nuts that hold the lower moulding down. Pete