edinmass
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Posts posted by edinmass
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Xander.....Yup.......but there are a lot of late series 16's with 8's in them. Probably a better choice.........but at a reasonable price someone will want it. Probably the most difficult 30's engine to get any parts for.
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Last week in Massachusetts it was snowing in the morning, and took the 1917 White out for a spin in 33 degree weather. Started right up and ran fine.......
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Drive what you like.....FTW!
I have no issues with a four or six in a car..........as long as it's POST WAR.
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Be sure to install the electric pump correctly. Do NOT hook it up to the ignition switch or circuit. Also, use a low pressure Carter pump that is 6 volts, and install a GOOD pressure regulator to bring it down to 1 1/2 psi. I usually install a gauge on the regulator so I can adjust it on the side of the road with confidence.
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Well....it certainly has value. Probably even 10k in its current condition. I have several friends close by to it if someone needs help with it.
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Drove the late model V-16 150 miles over the weekend. On interstate 95 at 75 mph it averaged 4.2 mpg. On surface roads about 5.8
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You can easily water jet new shims for the box if needed. You can see why I recommend to pull the box and clean it before you attempt to adjust it. Ross made good stuff........properly restored it should steer easy.
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It’s normal on almost all closed cars to have to drop the box out the bottom…….so it’s a four post lift or some very tall jack stands. The reason I said pull it first before you do adjustments…….we did steering boxes as a specialty……even made one once. I have found most every car that has sat as a barn find or in a garage for decades has a dry box……and many get driven dry for years damaging the races or bushings. Simply, after 50-100 years, every box need to come out and be inspected on a bench. And like most things in this world, if it was easy it would have been done already. In my last three early cars we didn’t even try steering them with a tow rope……just took the boxes out and did them as PM.
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Mostly Bugatti Type 57SC and some other applications........but yes, we do a bunch of Pierce carbs also.
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1 hour ago, mechanician said:
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I would like to get it clean before fluxing, as if the flux is insufficient (as I think it likely will be on my green parts) then I will need to de-solder and clean everything again just to get back to where I was. Sounds like that flux would work great during the soldering that will come after cleaning. The muriatic acid may on the right track as a cleaning agent. That one is easy enough to get and try on some test pieces. When old timers boiled radiators in caustic soda, I think that was followed by muriatic acid, the acid being for solder preparation.
Ed- that is exactly what I am looking to do, and the solder joints on your floats seem to have stayed bright, unlike some of the carb cleaners I have seen which blacken solder. Are you using it "off label" I thought optical brighteners were basically dyes?
The stuff we use is given to us as a favor/trade for fixing a big shot's car from the company. They make all sorts of stuff, and they also do zinc chromate on our Stromberg carb bodies..........they only give us enough to do what we need, and we return the old chemical when it slows down, and get a new two quarts. Comes in a wax lined glass bottle. So whatever it is will eat glass and cement. As you can see, it works fantastic. Photo is a used carb body treated by them.
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34 minutes ago, bryankazmer said:
Optical brighteners for fabrics and plastics are completely different chemicals and purposes
I understand......that's what it says on the label.
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We use brass optical brightener sold to industry but you have to have a hazmat number to purchase it. I have zero clue what is in it. Certainly some acid but carburetor parts come out like new. It’s nasty stuff. These are 80 year old used Stromberg parts dipped in the brass optical brightener. Nothing was done to them except being dipped in the chemical. It turns from yellow to green as you use it.
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Interesting.......I would NEVER lift any pre war car up on an offset two post lift...........and they are doing it at a teaching institution. Pre war cars have very flexible frames, and damage to body and doors is very easy to occur. Also, weight ballance and uneven frame perch mounts can cause the car to come down or shift. Look at the great restoration shops that do pre war stuff.......NONE of them use a two post offset lift.
PS- Love the car. And surprised it had juice brakes.
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Pull the box out of the car. Drain the box, and flush it out. Then you can inspect and adjust it on the bench. I do not consider any box adjustiable in the car. Figure it has been run dry........too many old cars drive like crap because no one ever digs into he box correctly. With semi fluid grease in the box, which is what it calls for, its almost impossible to set it up correctly any other way, and after 100 years, it needs to come out and get inspected. Ross is a great box.......
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Nice win! And thanks for the photos......Ed
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In my humble opinion, it's priced at high end retail. Series 65 cars have little following. While nice drivers, it wouldn't be my choice for a late 30's or early 40's Caddy. Market is soft at best on the car. And also the very nice Packards from the same era are also very soft. The car supply is much larger than the buying pool. I understand the temptation of buying local, saves transportation costs and cost of inspecting the car........so there is some value there. Also a sorted and driving car has much more value than one sitting for ten years. I usually value a car like the one you are considering at .....What number would make me buy it even if I wasn't interested in it? So my number is a quite a bit lower than the asking.
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Barn finds are not that difficult to score……..it just takes endless hours chasing. I have found dozens, and bought at least 15 of them. Most were early 30’s Caddy’s or Pierce Arrows. A few Lincoln’s and Packards tossed in. My best find I was involved in can’t be disclosed yet……..but it makes finding an open V-12 Pierce or similar seem like locating a Model T. Some day I will write a book. And I will also take partial credit for AJ’s speedster. Seeing that both Fred Roe and I chased that car down to the last dead end…………and it was my article that got 2+2 =4 to make the find come to life. Best part about barn finds is the chase…..even if you don’t land them, being the first guy through the door is a high that can’t be explained.
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If you post pictures and dimensions of the tank, you will probably get some responses right here. I see them all over Hershey every year. It’s 10 times easier to find the tanks than it is the brackets……..
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Grimy is spot on…….we spent countless hours fixing a 80’s CJ-8 that was converted to throttle body injection. Just figuring out what distributor cap was a challenge. They used mixed electronic components from two different displacement engines. The thing never actually ran correctly…….till we spent 80 hours figuring it out. Do the math on that bill. Thus the guys “great deal” on a shiny low milage Jeep turned into both a nightmare where at least ten shops refused to work on it, and the repair cost took the “good deal” into I overpaid for a messed up piece of junk territory.
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Sure looks like an aftermarket accessory to me. Looks like something JC Whitney sold in the 50’s.
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Propane torch is the way to go, I did that test yesterday on a V-16 Cadillac. There is an actual tool with a hose and nozzle that you can control better and direct the HC’s more accurately. I have had mine for decades. They are still available.
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Interesting……..6 volts is no good, unreliable, and can’t be made to work. Except that hundreds of millions of car successfully drove billions of miles without issues. Carburetors, distributors, mechanical brakes, vacuum tanks…..none of them ever worked or were reliable. That’s why EVERY single car with six volts sits on the side of the road broken down or not starting when hot. Just like yesterday, where I drove a V-16 Cadillac 150 miles and carried absolutely no tools. Car started hot ten times on 6 volts. Vacuum tanks worked fine, as did the dual point distributor. Fact is 6 volt cars operate well…..if they are serviced and maintained properly. Go to twelve volts…..may as well dump in a 350 Chevy, automatic transmission, hydraulic brakes, radial tires, where does it end? It’s your car and it certainly is yours to do with as you wish. Try and sell a stock car with a 12 volt conversation……80 percent of the buyers will blow past it without looking. Certainly looks like a good project, and being done all the way…….so why not keep it stock. It’s easier, cheaper, and certainly more reliable. Whatever your choice, good luck with the project.
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Very nice car…….👍
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I disagree…….I recommend going back to stock. The tanks work fine. And are trouble free.
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Who's Going to Buick National Meet 2024 in Ohio
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Interestingly I have been to two Buick National Meets over the years.......while driving my way to the Pierce Arrow Society National Meet! I am trying to be in the area this year as the Packard/CCCA guys have a national meet close by the same weekend. Probably will wait to see the weather just a few days out before I commit.