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edinmass

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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. I agree 100 percent with the above post, the only difference is I would use stainless instead of copper, as I have had copper block off plates fail over the long term. Hugh......best post helping someone I have ever seen.......👍👍👍

  2. I would get access to a five gas exhaust analyzer, a ignition scope, and start doing a cylinder power balance test AFTER you recheck the compression. Also, I would use propane to check for manifold leaks, and I don’t trust the electronic ignition to be correct out of the box. It’s all about the basics. Twin carbs can be a real pain in the ass. Fuel pressure should be checked. Often times on cars like this I isolate the systems if possible......IE set up a different fuel system to eliminate the one in the car. That just leaves ignition and carburetor tuning. Fact is, you need the exact Correct carburetors and linkage. Good enough is not good enough. Also adjusting for E10 while your at it. It takes time, and lots of hair to pull out of your head. Take your time, assume NOTHING, and check everything again.............good luck.

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  3. There is a shop in England that makes rings on special order, and have a reputation of doing a good job for reasonable money. Modern ring package would increase horse power, give better ignition burn, and would offer oil control. I must admit as a purist, I would run the factory piston........it will help keep the mosquitos under control!👍

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    • Haha 2
  4. The slop in the bronze bushing was more than I have ever seen before. The gap on the floating set of points would go from .06 to .15 depending on position. At low speeds it definatly was causing problems. Interestingly, the bushings are off the shelf standard. We will install new ones and then ream to size. The shaft shows very little wear. This is the first Autolite distributor I have ever had to take down this far. Basic and simple. Very straight forward. Quality of the unit is middle of the road at best. Setting up the points and getting them in sync are more difficult than any Delco unit I have ever worked with. It will be after the holiday before I get this finished as we have people coming to visit.........not sure it's a good idea. More later......Ed

  5. On 11/21/2020 at 12:01 AM, Pete K. said:

    I wanted to mention, a half-inch of steering wheel play in your car doesn't sound bad at all in my book.  Am I mistaken here? What say you all?


     

    That is too much play.........

     

    If the box turns better to one side than the other, the end play on the worm is off. 
     

    Steering boxes are much more complicated and difficult to adjust than most people think. 
     

    Boxes should only be adjusted on the bench, and empty of lubricant.

     

    Its lots of work to get a screwed up box back to being right. And it’s all a waste of time unless you do the entire system correctly, and about 99 percent of the people never do.

    • Like 2
  6. 15 hours ago, alsancle said:

    Why does everybody but me have their own distributor and coil machines?


    Having them makes you look like a mechanical wonder........they find LOTS of problems that normally would be difficult to impossible to locate. I bought my first Sun machine in high school. I have owned four of them over the years. Now parts are available.......so I only keep one on hand.......use to keep two working units back in the day. People who drive dual point cars that run we’ll usually have had their car set up on one.

    • Thanks 1
  7. Red Kote is a new one for me. Using gas tank sealer has been popular the last twenty years. If available back forty years ago, I’m sure I would have tried cork and a sealer. As long as the sealer isn’t too heavy, it works fine. Notice in the above photo how close the float is to the walls of the bowl. Many replacement and reproduction floats have very poor quality control and will often drag or stick to the side wall. Today too many people try and run an electric pump on a vacuum tank car.........a situation that begs for leaks and fires. It should never be done. I have heard good things about the synthetic float material. Another problem is generic needle and seats binding. I will usually lap in any factory needle I can get my hands on. I usually use assorted compound used in polishing shops that is available from Amazon. Less aggressive and easier to work with. 

  8. 10 minutes ago, drovak said:

    Do you have some online pointers to brass floats that might work with Marvels? How did you affix the float to the old arm? Do you find that the range of adjustment is plenty with a brass float?


     

    Never done it on a Marvel. You have to become your own fabricator and engineering department. You can also buy synthetic float material and sculpt it with a hot wire to cut it into shape. Others have done it this way......me, I’m a dinosaur, I like brass. Photos would help.....let’s see what your working with.

  9. Lots of good advice here.........it doesn’t take much dirt to make the carb leak.

     

    You mention the float has dope......so my guess is your running a cork float. Dope and sealer can make a float heavy and not push on the needle and seat well. Also, a float can bind on the hinge or drag on the side of the bowl. The tank has very little head pressure. So the carb will not leak if correctly set up. Problem is a 100 year old carb has a lot of chances to have been messed with in ways difficult to see or figure out. Don’t give up. Also understand that modern fuel is less dense and has a lower specific gravity than the old fuel.......this mean it doesn’t push as hard to close the needle because of physics. You need everything just about perfect for it to seal. I had a perfectly clean system on my 17 and all was fine till I stopped at a filling station and got dirty gas..."so then I had to install a filter in the system......it stopped leaking after that. It needs to be almost perfectly clean fuel or the carb will puke. My bet is a new float will solve your issues. I long ago gave up on cork..........to many times I had new floats absorb gas and partially sink. I only use brass for them for the last forty years..........problem solved. I go to tractor supply and look over their tractor floats and buy a couple of them that are close and start from there. They are reasonably priced. You don’t mention if it leaks while running, or if the car is flooding and running rich while driving. Your close to fixing it....don’t let it bother you, everyone here know what they are doing because they have taken theirs apart fifty times also........been there, done that. 

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  10. On 6/8/2020 at 7:53 PM, Mark Wetherbee said:

    I hope something of that importance winds up in the Pierce-Arrow museum, and I expect there’s someone somewhere that would pay big $$$$$ for the original sketches!


     

    The originals still exist.........and yes........I have copies. I have never seen them anywhere else. When I die, call John Cislak and he will happily give them to you....he isn’t into literature.

  11. 1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

    I thought that only happened to me. Glad to know I'm not alone. Question is who's pocket does it come out of????


    I hope your volunteering! Where do I send the bill! 
     

    Stuff happens when you work on cars. It was in a Snap On vise, with Snap On aluminum jaws, and tightened as much as I dared and not damage it. Trying to tap out the pin on the shaft as gently as possible.......which I have done 100 times........and never had a problem. This one wasn’t moving, and I didn’t use any more effort than usual. I already found a good used casting.........the overnight shipping will cost more than the part............fact is, even with experience 70 year old parts fail, and things go wrong when servicing them. I wasn’t in a hurry, it just happened. Such is the way of old cars. In the end, the car will be fixed. It certainly wasn’t doing anyone any good with bad bushings and a running problem associated with it. I will photograph the process and the set up on the Sun Distributor Tester, and will make a video of the points synchronization and the advance curve. Should be a fun project to cover here.

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  12. Cars were built into trucks back in the teens and early 20’s.............and busses were built into cars. The trucks from WWI were the frame, transmission, sometimes the rear end or front end in the built up 66’s . It was a total mish mash. They also built trucks in the 20’s with sixes and later on eights.  I have seen Pierce Arrow engines in Packard car chassis. Back in the day anything went. Over time the basis of many cars were redone taking two or three half breeds and building one of a more pure pile of parts. Wheels, bodies, rear ends, transmissions............whatever they could get to work out in the chassis was used. By the 80’s you could buy an entire cast body with windshield frame and hardware. Often times batches of five or ten were made from scratch. There are still bodies looking for chassis today. Also, a lot of chassis survived up to the war when the cast bodies were sent to the scrap drives with the intention of building a speedster post war. Many were never built and sat around until replica bodies were manufactured for them. All Pierce cars had sixes in them from about 07 or 08. They built speedsters with truck chassis and four cylinder engines.....I don’t know if any survive......last time I remember seeing an all WWI truck built into a speedster was in the late 70’s in California. It’s probably turned into a parts car for a more proper speedster build. Now most of the speedster’s are gone and turned back into touring cars with thr batch built bodies. Not much different than the Model J stuff built in the 60’s to the 80’s. There are still early bare car chassis that have never been rebodied. A 1912 on the east coast is still in its garage after the body was scrapped in 1941. 

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  13. I sold my AMG with 56k on the clock last week. Had good tires, everything worked, only needed two power window motors......look close, yup it’s a rag top. I took twenty five hundred for it. Fantastically  fast, reliable, and terrible to work on. I had it five years and thirty thousand miles with nothing but a washer pump repair. It started to have a running problem........and no codes set. I thought it was time for it to go......and yes, I can fix modern cars also. I just didn’t want to deal with insane replacement parts.

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  14. Have the distributor mostly apart.......and then, disaster struck...........the removable jaws in the vice slipped, while driving out the pin holding the drive lug on the shaft. It hit the floor.....actually taking a chunk out of the epoxy down to the concrete. The distributor housing did NOT survive. Now more work. Nothing is ever easy, and nothing ever goes as planned. I located another housing within a few hours. It will delay the project, and add to the cost.......hey, what’s new? The adventure continues.........photos tomorrow morning.

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