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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. 24 minutes ago, trimacar said:

    It's funny how tops work.  Some cars look great with the top up and so-so with it down, some cars just beg for it to go down.


    I agree that the top helps the White.  Sorry to hear that it's damaged.  The sad part is that now, if you put a new top on it, the restoration has started....



    Dave.....top isn’t damaged.....it no longer exists except for patterns.....it was so fragil that just putting it down was a one way street.......it would have gone to tatters just lowering it.......the choice was not to drive the car and look at it, or drive the car and accept the consequences. I’m never inclined to look at cars. They have wheels for a reason. Had a insane week here......none of it planned. I drove more cars this week than I have in the last three years. Interestingly they were mostly new GTO cars........and a few super luxury models. The newer GT40 was fun, the McLaren was a disappointment. The others were all strangely interesting, but nothing I want to own. 

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  2. One last comment......every person who owns a 1934 Packard Individual Custom Dietrich Stationary Coupe...also owns a Model J. And interestingly I know them all....(both cars and owners).......and every one of them drives their Duesenberg’s ten times more often than the Packard. A Model J Duesenberg is the one pre war car in the world that will do everything you ask of it without hesitation........simply put they are a pure joy to drive. 

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    Don’t want to take the photo thread off topic.....but since it’s so hard core big car related,  I shall  be short. The Duesenberg world is a strange and fascinating place to become part of. I stepped into it by accident five years ago, and became immersed in it. It’s been a fantastic journey........not just because of the Model J’s which are clearly the best cars ever built......but the ability to compare them to the “other legends of the road”. Nothing, nothing, nothing, compares to a Model J.......and I have driven them all. We a respected friend said I should drive a 2.3 or 2.9 Alfa..............I did, and while both were great cars they did nothing for me.......even if they cost ten times more than a J. That doesn’t mean J’s don’t have flaws or short comings..........but given any car in the world to drive, I will ALWAYS take the J, SJ, JN, SJN, or SSJ. 


    6 hours ago, ericmac said:

    Not Sam's car. It is SJN 564, a car that is part of the same collection as the '34 Packard Dietrich Coupe that is the subject of another thread here.

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  4. 1 hour ago, George Cole said:

    I thought I'd never live to say this, but the girl looks better wearing a top.  It make her look more....complete and dignified.

    It’s interesting that I was very much looking forward to putting the top down, but didn’t as not to cause damage. Now that it’s down, I prefer the car with a top up. We will probably do a quick top install that won’t be correct or detailed......but in Florida you need sun protection. The wife already said she won’t ride in it without it........so we shall see what develops. It needs seat covers at a minimum also. 

    As always in old cars.......just add more time and money and all will be well.

    My inclination is to have Dave C do it........but there are multiple problems with that.......it’s too big for his shop number one, he has his own projects number two, and he semi retired number three. Like all things.......give it time, and it will be figured out.

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  5. 6 hours ago, alsancle said:

    So I thought there was a thread on this already.   I counted yesterday and I have 8 bookshelves across 3 different physical locations with twice as much stuff stacked on the floor.   I've started a program of organization and pulled all my decent hardcover books on to a single shelf.  The books only took up this small shelf.   The lesser books, binders, magazines, etc take up all the other space.


    Got a picture of your books?


    I could cull down the books on this rack............what’s with all the foreign stuff? Toss the Delage book and replace it with Dodge....at least then it will be useful. 



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  6. Find a great mentor........best advice I have ever seen here. I have had four or five. Each extremely talented in one or two areas of car restoration and repair. Pick and choose the best skills and attributes of each of them, commit them to memory. Interestingly.......when you get good skills and a great reputation.......you don’t have to put up with fussy clients...........the real talented guys have so much work they won’t work for difficult people. Just a few months ago, a friend who is extremely talented turned down a “dream job” from a client that would have made him able to retire five years earlier than planned.........he refused because he didn’t want the drama that was involved..........the people I work with have the same attitude as I do when it comes to working on cars.......if it isn’t fun......I REFUSE to deal with it. I work on things most people would pull their hair out of their heads dealing with. Recently we were driving when a Big Bang and and the “noise of destruction” that sends a chill up you spine occurred. The guy driving turned to me and said what the hell was that? I smiled and said “time and materials......and it will be all set.” His next question was “how much”...............response was whatever it takes. He mumbled under his breath.


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  7. 24 minutes ago, Grimy said:


    Both true, but the inventory makes great trading stock for stuff you need but don't have--and which somebody won't let go for less than huge cash money.

    To show how this works.......I found a Pierce Arrow engine in California..........too far away for me to chase. Close to George. I put him on it as a spare for his 1936 Pierce. George ended up with it........from a guy he knew forty years earlier...........it’s a small world in pre war car stuff. George.....that was about ten year ago.......have you started on the 1601 yet? 

  8. Interestingly.......people (employees) who are really good restorers in the big shops rarely are into cars at the same level that most of us here are. The grind of day in and day out of a restoration shop offers me no joy. Sorting a car, making it perform and drive perfectly.........that is what I find joy in. The harder the running problem is to fix, the more I enjoy it. Sadly.....I’m so old and experienced now that most running problems are easily fixed. It’s rare when I find a really challenging ignition or fuel problem today. Same thing goes with electrical issues.........thousands of hours spent on electrical systems and almost every problem becomes routine. Intelligence helps a lot........experience is what gets you to the finish line. The absolute most important skill when repairing cars.......is good logical diagnostic technique........sounds simple.......it isn’t. 

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  9. One more note..........there are some very good restorers out there. They can paint, fabricate, upholster, and do fantastic work...........making the cars go down the road correctly is a total different skill set than restoration . Most 100 point newly restored cars need 80-200 hours to straighten them out after a restoration. I have made my living sorting cars out after the fact. I enjoy it ten times more than actual restoration. 

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  10. Keith.......”Time. It takes time. There is no substitute for experience.”



    Absolutely correct. You don’t know anything until you have spun wrenches for 5000 hours of actual shop time....and then you will realize how little you actually know. The skill set to do restoration work is much different than most people realize.


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  11. I recently started an engine sitting for 70 years. Motor was “free” but gummy and dragging from “oil glue”. I dumped in atf in the cylinders overnight, and it turned a bit easier. Did a compression check with the starter and got 52 pounds across the board. Did the “heat treatment” and additional motor oil........and was intrigued when the heat softened up all the old glue like oil.....and helped the motor oil flow in and around the rings. I find the engine up after using a pressure pot to prime the oil system.........car started and ran fine. After an hours of run in my new compression reading was 82 pounds across the board DRY! It’s held there after about two hundred miles. For initial run in I ran 5-30 and changed it three times to clean the 104 year old engine. Just today, I went to straight 40 and my oil pressure while fine but low on the 5-30 tripled and now is in the upper range of a new engine. You can read the story of the car in the general discussion area....the title is “The phone rang” and you can see the story of the car from purchase to driving in just a few weeks. On cars that you can drop the pan easily......I would always do so just to check things out.

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  12. Car looks nice and solid. Also a plus no one has messed with it...........a big plus. Over the years I have studied pedal wear on Pierce Arrow cars.........and learned an interesting lesson. A car that had 60,000 miles on it and looked like it was correct..........when we looked in the glove box we found a notebook that the actual mileage was 260,000     So while pedal wear is a indicator..........it’s not any type of guarantee.

  13. Engines stick while sitting only for only a few reasons. Water causing rust, animals inside causing rust, and old oil turning into a “glue” like wax. Forcing things is a bad idea. Lots of good comments above. Recently I used a new type of technique.........while doing all the regular things above......I also heated the coolant with a pail heater and circulating the water through the block. The temperature got up to 185 degrees.........the heat helps to expand the surfaces and allows the oil to run past the rings easier. In this particular case the problem was not rust......it was oil “glue”. The heat softened it and allowed the atf to drain by the rings.......worked great. After 24 hours the motor turned over by hand easily. It’s now part of my regular “unstick it” process.

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  14. 2 hours ago, Grimy said:

    SPACE is a major consideration...  That's why my garages are absolutely stuffed.  Thanks for rationales to provide to our ladies.  And Happy New Year!


    I also figure any spare part I have in inventory will never be needed. Sort of a reverse Murphy’s Law.

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  15. Whenever possible Collecting spare mechanical parts of uncommon pre war cars is always a good idea. At a minimum I like to have the entire chassis/drive line of “keeper” cars. Parts are always wanted. And often when selling a car I often do better on the parts than I do the car.

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  16. I was thinking there are lots of better factory bodies.........or small batch bodies from the custom houses. While I prefer phaetons because as a kid that was the car to own............two door roadsters and convertible coupes/Victoria’s are certainly preferred by most today. I think the JN Rollston & the LaGrand convertible coupes are top of the line. Lots of others will argue for a disappearing top Murphy........just because of the early classic lines.



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  17. 1 minute ago, alsancle said:


    Agreed,  except I would take the SJ version of it which I believe is no longer with us.


    35 minutes ago, ericmac said:

    In my opinion the greatest Duesenberg of all time. 

    Would not be in my top ten, and possibly not the top twenty of Model J’s. I’m a phaeton type of collector, but there are lots of other more refined bodies that are not as heavy. 

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