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edinmass

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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. 1 hour ago, Jbalz97 said:

    I'm not the current owner, but I do work at the Shop that got it running and cleaned up. Super nice ride. I'm sure it will be out and about next summer. 


    Sending the car to a shop to get running……is much different than getting it sorted. Hell, tires today are 500 each with tubes,shipping, and labor. How about a brief what was done? Quick and dirty or completely gone through? Hopefully the gamble paid off. Nothing better than a happy new owner.

  2. Initially known as a "Springfield Top" from Springfield Metal Body Works in Springfield Mass. Over a few years, they became known as a California Top in the industry. Many aftermarket companies mad them to fit as an aftermarket accessory. Seems they were popular I the mid wast and west coast, east coast not so much.

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  3. 5 minutes ago, K8096 said:

    New timing covers are available at about $3000 each.  New aluminum heads were available at $5000 a pair.   I don’t know if the heads are still available.   

     

     

    Yes, and yes.......covers were 3500 last time I checked and installed one three years ago.....

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  4. The survival rate for the late 12's is very simple. No gas during the war. Most were parked as they were too new to scrap. After the war it was hard to get cars till 1950. The hobby started full swing by then. We see high survival rates in the late series Pierce Arrow's as well. 

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  5. I always wanted a pre 1919 Winton, they are great cars, but can pose some challenges with castings on certain models. Underrated cars that should be looked at for any collector. 

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  6. Do yourself a favor, pass that carb. They sand blasted it because it was slump of rust. Buy a very good unit….its much cheaper in the long run. I would only give 500 for the one in the photo. Just my two cents. Unless you have a half dozen parts carbs, your gonna spend a long time making something decent out of that unit.

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  7. On 1/26/2024 at 11:10 PM, ramair said:

    I agree with Ed on corn head grease and I am a farmer with many pounds of corn head grease available to me.  Specifically it is used in chain drive boxes that get hot, but not super hot with the motions of the chain and gears. For instance in my Pickett one step bean cutter the gear box gets up to 140 degrees, when I shut the machine off the grease is a heavy liquid and self levels itself. The only way it will self level on a steering gear box is to get the temperature up under the hood so that the gearbox reaches at least 125 degrees.  Short of lighting a fire under the box, or you could you drain out the water out of the engine and run it up hill😁, seriously I am not trying to be a smart..s.  I think we all know that the original spec oil was the best to prevent wear, unfortunately poor seals of the day along with wear caused by losing all the oil was a compound problem.  This has led me to believe that some of the mixes that have been blended between grease and oil might be the answer until you can overhaul with new seals and go back to heavy oil, 

    no disrespect to John Deere, but I believe corn head is only slightly better than leaving your gearbox dry.

    i am not a engineer or any kind of expert, my opinion only,

    100 percent correct.........👍

     

    I might also add, we have made steering boxes from scratch, and reproduced parts for Ross & Gemmer boxes. 

     

     

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  8. Hello…….dont want to get into a diatribe about converting it. Don’t bother…….I can give you a bunch of reasons. There is NO ADVANTAGE whatsoever with the conversion. And you're much more likely to have problems. It’s a solution that’s looking for a problem that doesn’t exist. GM was the world’s largest corporation and certainly the best engineering company on the planet in 1940. Billions of miles have been en driven on Delco distributors with no issues. Can’t say the same for the conversions. 

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  9. 12 minutes ago, elepaqxo said:

    I am looking for a Bosch 12 wire magneto. 
    running condition or complete and rebuildable


    I believe the correct nomenclature for a mag running a two plug engine is a “twin spark” and the “dual” refers to a choice of the mag with an external coil option…….and thus you will need a switch and coil also.

     

    Thus if I understand it correctly, and you also want the coil option, you want a six cylinder twin spark dual. They were probably made in two series, early style pre 1908 or so, then the later series with the more modern cap. The one above is what I was told as the early style. Landen B is more knowledgeable than I am on these units. In the end, just post the application…….a twin plug six is a big boy car…….so you’re not gonna find one on a shelf in a Ford T collectors stuff. It’s simply a component that will cost a fair amount of money. I hunted a unit for a four for 18 months. Saw them from 6-12k for a unit. Ended up buying one off the shelf from a friend where it sat for fifty years. Still, at a substantial discount, it was not cheap. So please ID the application and post a photo……..thanks, Ed.

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  10. They had two transmissions that year…….four speed crash box, and then the three speed synchro. 4.4 isn’t a terrible rear ratio………unless you are familiar with pre war stuff…….you almost never drive the car except in direct. First and seconded should be used to get the car moving, and it should be in third by 10 mph. Most modern drivers hold the gears much too long. Maybe changing how you drive will help you out. Get to direst as soon as possible…..

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