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edinmass

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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. 1 hour ago, 58L-Y8 said:

    After their jobs ferrying sightseers up Pikes Peak, because of their reputation as a tough chassis, they were bought by the Rio Grande Sothern Railroad in the southwestern Colorado to covert to railbuses.

    Galloping Goose - RGS RR.jpg


     

    The Pikes Peak photo is common, there was a fleet of twenty five Pierce Arrow’s from the Broadmore Hotel that hauled sightseers of the mountain road. Tens of thousands of photos were taken at the top of the hill, with a chalk board usually giving the date on the running board. Many, many cars from their fleet still survive, and are still being found. They would stamp their own car number on the frame horn to identify it in house. I had one of their cars in my garage for five years.

    • Like 3
  2. 16 minutes ago, alsancle said:

     

     

    You waited 24 hours or it took you that long to find your wallet.  I almost bought it to hold it hostage.


     

    Unlike some other people, I actually have a job and work. I didn’t have access to my eBay account at home, so I had to wait. As far as holding something hostage.........unless I’m mistaken I have two of your items here your rather attached too.

    • Haha 1
  3. Bhigdog is correct, as gasket is in effect a shim........I was wondering if anyone as going to make that comment.

     

    All is good in a spirited discussion........and interestingly it seems like I may be making a manifold and water pump for a project from scratch in the next few months......if the project is a go, I will post extensively on it.

  4. Ron provided a very clear answer as I expected he would. Now your choices are more difficult. Is the engine recently rebuilt? Is the car new to you? You only need five pounds oil pressure for every thousand rpm with today’s modern oils. With them calling for five pounds pressure back then, it’s clear they didn’t have any design issues and the car functioned fine at five pounds. I’m thinking bearing design issue......like incorrect oil grooves in the mains, or a restriction placed in the oil gallery to increase pressure by a well meaning but uninformed engine builder. Since the pump only feeds the mains, an internal bypass may be an option IF the only other solution is to tear it down and do it over again. Biggest problem even with the willingness to pull the motor and do it right.......is you need to figure out what’s causing the over pressure.......which may or may not be easy to determine. If you get it all apart and find nothing? I think at this juncture I would pull the main caps one at a a time and compare what you have to what Ron has done on his bearings. With modern oil today, you can run five or zero weight without any issues of oil failure. My 1917 White takes 40weight, and I’m running five in it now to help clean and flush the motor after sitting 75 years. I am just changing it every fifty miles with thr cheapest stuff I can find. I will probably go to 40 next week. Photos of the oil pan and more of the lower end may help spot you problem. Also, you refer to the “dam” So a photo of the wind age tray and it’s drain, as well as the rod scupper troughs might be helpful also.

  5. Trusting a modern shop is a major problem, that’s why when I was in business, I made a deal with the shop owner to use the equipment and do it myself. My point is, no shop would use a shim, it’s not a correct or professional repair that you can charge for......it’s a short cut. In your own garage, if one chooses do that type of work, it’s up to the individual. A professional would never make a repair with a shim. Craftsmanship and standards of service just wont allow it. Today, poor workmanship is the curse of all car owners. Very few shops do good work. As a craftsman I would never use a shim on any car manifold.........it’s hack work.........as an example......my White that we are making a new water pump shaft and timing gear as they are all one piece. I won’t use a spray weld, hard chrome, or other good enough repair......we are making the gear and shaft because it is the only correct repair. I drive exotic pre war cars thousands of miles every year......and we do it reliably without issues..........1800 miles on a Model J over the course of a few weeks. I never have a thought of breaking down, or having a problem, because the car is serviced and repaired properly. I would be embarrassed to open a hood and have a shim on a manifold. I have machined countless manifolds.......matching intake to exhaust manifolds and getting them square is very difficult and time consuming......and then, and only then, can you address the face that bolts up to the block. We recently installed new exhaust manifolds on an early V-16, all six manifolds and flange pipes were new castings. Want to talk about a sxxt load of work? Getting them in line and not leaking was a incredible challenge............it was done without shims. Just careful machine work and craftsmanship. Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

     

    One last question? Do you want your surgeon to shim a knee or hip replacement, or use the wrong size stint in you chest? Or would you prefer you medical professional keep his work and service up to medical standards. How about the jet airplane technician working on an Airbus....do you want him to take short cuts on a plane your in at 36,000 feet? No thanks, I prefer to have things done correctly. Yes, I know....it’s just an old car. Hope the chef at the restaurant doesn’t serve you undercooked chicken...........at what point do you draw the line.........everything you pay for as a service must be perfect......except old cars?

    • Like 1
  6. The 34 is a great car.........and style is certainly subjective. If you took ten guys and went up to the top ten super models, and each guy got to pick a girl to take to dinner........someone ended up with the least attractive girl........yet they are all super models. None of us would toss a 34 V-16 convertible out of our garage.......that said, look at the parking places of the current REAL cars.........if the 34 was the best Cadillac.......you would expect to see them in certain well curated collections.........you see the 32’s in them, and some of the 30-31’s, but most of the 33-34 cars are not in the top five collections that I am aware of..........

     

    The 30-31 Sport Phaeton is mechanically a pain in the ass.......once we’ll sorted, and with proper attention, they are fantastic cars for the right type of collector. One of the best things about them is how easy they are to get in and out of, front or rear. They are quite simply the most comfortable touring cars there are to own.......

    • Like 1
  7. I have done more than 100 heads and fifty to seventy manifolds on the machine above. It’s not just a belt sander..........but it does a great job in the hands of a skilled operator. The heads were all modern aluminum four and six cylinder engines. The manifolds were mostly two piece straight eight combination units that were very long. Never had a failure or problem with them ever..........
     

    PS- I always did my own work on the machine, as I never trust modern machine shops with rare and difficult parts.......they always treat them as routine..........and NO pre war work today is ever routine.

     

     

    Any restoration or repair shop who shimmed a manifold because it wasn’t flat IS doing half assed work. No customer that I am aware of wants cars fixed by taking short cuts........and what shop world warrantee such a job?  Would you like to pay to have sub standard work done to your modern or antique car? Shim stock has lots of appropriate uses........shimming a manifold IS NOT ONE OF THEM.

    • Like 1
  8. 7 hours ago, christianad1156 said:

    Keith, 

     

    Thank you for making this and posting.  This looks seriously helpful and effective.  I'll reach out on email.  

     

    There's a brake drum measuring tool that also measures to the shoes.  Its basically a caliper that has inside and outside measurements that you set the distance and match both the inside and outside.  It won't check concentric-ness though.  It might help to further refine the fit after using your tool if needed.  Do you think that it could be helpful or did you find that the "adjust until the shoe touches the drum" method worked well enough?

     

    Attached is an example of the tool.  All I did was search for "drum brake tool measuring" and there were multiple options that come up.  I haven't used one of these yet so I'm not sure how well it works.

     

    Christian

     

     

     

    brake measuring tool.jpg


     

    This tool is a cheap piece of Chineseum...........not accurate. Good enough for a one ton dump truck, but on a pre war car, you need the real precision unit.....and they are expensive. I have the high end set, purchased at an auction years ago.........it was still something like 600 bucks.

     

     

  9. 4 hours ago, padgett said:

    Most dangerous bike I ever saw was a 500cc Kawasaki triple. Watched a Darwin candidate stand one up in a parking lot, got air under the back tire, and when it landed it cracked the cases.

     

    Good racing drivers are different from most. The best make the car look slow until you time them. A really well set up car can be driven at 11/10th but feels exactly like driving on ice. Best advice I ever got was "don't do anything sudden".

     

    When really going fast time seems to slow down and have plenty of time to think about how to correct, whether to spin or try to correct. Hard part is not to outdrive the car, saw more crashes happen when an amateur tried to correct an issue and overcorrect into a wall.

     

    Seen a few people spin at Indy, mostly in Lotii, just let it spin and drive out of it. Nice thing about a 360 is you usually just continue in the direction you were going unless try to correct but will lose velocity very quickly.


    I grew up in a Kawasaki dealership, and learned my first mechanical skills there. I raced for the factory back in the early 80’s. I was able to purchase a 1971 H1 500 still in the crate out in the Santa Anna warehouse where it sat for 12 years in the corner. It’s the one with the buzz box electronic ignition. It’s still in the crate.....never assembled. Some day, I’ll take it to Pebble and uncrate it on the field, and assemble it during the show. Should make quite a spectacle........the big question is, will it run after sitting in a box for 55 years? With cable brakes, at least we won’t have to deal with hydraulic issues.

    • Like 1
  10. I would recommend diagnosing the car instead of guessing. Everything is “gone through” but it turns slower now than it did before it was rebuilt?????? Turns slowly cold, and even slower hot? That simply is not correct. You should use an inductive amp probe and check starter draw hot and cold. If it’s drawing more than 300 amps cold you have a junk starter.......brushes, field, armature, or ground issue. If amperage is acceptable cold, rpm during cranking should be checked to factory specifications. None of this is rocket science. If your starter is good, your power source is good, and the cables and ground are adequate the car should start easily. I have seen people call a battery “good” because it’s ten months old.......CHECK EVERYTHING. It’s not going to be hard to find. Hot soak is a flooded engine from a carb dumping fuel after shut down.......if your car is slow to turn over when it’s hot, you need to solve that problem first. 

    • Like 3
  11. 2 hours ago, moran75 said:

    Just watched a TV show where  a ‘69 Corvette with a 350 was dyno tested  at 145 HP...the points were then changed to an electronic set up and the new test showed 190 HP..that’s a huge improvement..

     

    I know the supposed advantages to reliability - don’t want to open that debate again or what’s best make to use...but is that kind of HP improvement really achievable?? Sounds too good to be true...

     

    kev


     

    Bet they are selling conversion kits.........

     

    At Sturgis a guy was selling plugs and wires for your Harley.......he put it on a dyno and tested it, did the “tune up” and retested it. If you didn’t get six horse power more there was no charge. I watched him do three bikes, and on the fourth while he was doing the “retest” I openly and loudly suggested he sit back down on the bike like he did the first time he did the power run.........his fat ass was on the bike “before” but he stood off to the side for the “retest”. Crowd got very ugly........he gave back a bunch of money and the parking lot he was set up in tossed him out..........

     

    A properly set up distributor will make two to three times the voltage any car can use.......it is still firing the path of least resistance..........the coil discharges the same amount of KV’s every time.........as long as there is enough time to saturate the coil between firings ,  that’s the theory behind dual points........except on pre war cars engine design and low rpm make dual points and dual coils a waste of time unless you flat head Packard or Pierce is turning 12 grand.

     

    Electronic ignition on a pre war car is a solution looking for a problem that doesn’t exist. I don’t know of any serious and experienced collector that runs them.

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