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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. I sold my AMG with 56k on the clock last week. Had good tires, everything worked, only needed two power window motors......look close, yup it’s a rag top. I took twenty five hundred for it. Fantastically  fast, reliable, and terrible to work on. I had it five years and thirty thousand miles with nothing but a washer pump repair. It started to have a running problem........and no codes set. I thought it was time for it to go......and yes, I can fix modern cars also. I just didn’t want to deal with insane replacement parts.



  2. Have the distributor mostly apart.......and then, disaster struck...........the removable jaws in the vice slipped, while driving out the pin holding the drive lug on the shaft. It hit the floor.....actually taking a chunk out of the epoxy down to the concrete. The distributor housing did NOT survive. Now more work. Nothing is ever easy, and nothing ever goes as planned. I located another housing within a few hours. It will delay the project, and add to the cost.......hey, what’s new? The adventure continues.........photos tomorrow morning.

    • Like 1
  3. 14 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

    Great photos Ed. This is just a guess but I think the vessel is the USS Mayflower, the Presidential yacht. The date is 1917.




    It seems to have something to do with the visit of these two French officers, I presume War Heroes because both have the Croix de Guerre and the one on the right also has been decorated with the Legion of Honor.  Neither are senior officers and they could be aviators. In WWI the French aviation service did not have a specific uniform. Members wore the uniform of the branch of service they came from and these were frequently somewhat different. As the war progressed, and men joined from civilian life, they had no "old uniform" to wear and, because there was no official uniform, they could wear whatever uniform they liked best.




    This even will be recorded somewhere and some further digging will probably reveal who they were. Everyone in the background is in US uniform, including the drivers so we can be pretty sure they are in the US. One of the cars has a little two-flag device on the radiator cap with French and US flags.



    Correct......I have the names somewhere, but just not at hand. 

  4. During the summer, driving the 35 Auburn SC Speedster, coming off the line at a stop light while it was 95 degrees plus with a 106 feels like temperature our slick little speedster was becoming unhappy. Remember, at these temperatures ANY carburetor and fuel system is going to have issues. Well, when I got back to the shop I went through everything, and didn't find any issues. I attributed it to temperature and the super charger not liking the heat. Car ran fine at 2000 rpm, but just off idle it still wasn't happy. With other things to fix during the pandemic, I placed a post it note to take the car for a spin when temperatures were back to normal........think mid 70's. So last week the shop was finally clean and free of any vehicles, and I decided to take another poke at the speedster. It fired right up, and I pulled it outside. Immediately I knew we had unrelated heat issues, and experience told me right away it was ignition. PROBLEM.......I had recently done a head gasket and also did new cap, rotor, and wires.....and fine tuned the engine. I couldn't imagine what was wrong........so, instead of guessing, we did the proper diagnostic procedure I preach so much about. I knew I had good compression, valves were perfect. I knew the fuel system was better than new. And having recently gone through the cap, rotor, and wires we had only a few places to look. Power to the ignition switch was good....(always start with the primary {battery voltage} when diagnosing ignition systems.) All was good to the Hershey lock switch, and to the coil and distributor......battery voltage AND grounds were all fine. So....we know we have either a coil, condenser, or points issue. Since I had never taken the distributor and placed it on the Sun Distributor Tester, I figured I would start there. Pulled it out of the car, set it up un the machine, and placed my chair in front of the Sun machine. Immediately I could see one set of points was very far off.......much too tight. Spun the unit up and I could see points fluttering, and the synchronization was off seven degrees. It wouldn't adjust like it should while on the machine. I have seen this before many times over, with incorrect points being used. Fortunatly we stock NOS ignition for all our cars. Inspection showed the points in the unit were correct. Interesting........so, I removed the distributor from the Sun Tester and immediately grabbed the lobe and sure enough, it was flopping around like a fish...........the car had severely worn bushings in the Autolite Distributor. I ordered up some bushings.........all the regular sources were out of them, but managed to find a set on a shelf out west. So here we are now.......a 100 point car, and when restored they didn't go through the distributor..........has new paint, plating, and components in it........but not bushings. I expect the knurled them and they were tight until we started putting miles on it.......we drive ALL our cars........as much as possible. More photos to come............


    • Like 4
  5. Walt.........thats why our shop motto is............." Drive it like you stole it!"


    It makes for great stories. Sadly, many can't be told while current owners of the vehicles are still living. Yes, there are a very few who drive the cars the way they were designed. If you're  not in danger of crashing, you are NOT driving the car. Of course, this refers to street racing type of machines. Do a four wheel slide in a 70 to 110 year old car.....two to three tons drifting...the stuff that adrenaline is made of.........smiles, fear, terror, hysterical laughter, eye watering, wind blowing through your hair, coolant pushing out of the overflow, cut out open, engine screaming, blue smoke out the exhaust...........so I am told..........all fun stuff! Sadly so very few people today alive who know the sensation of insanity in a early car at speed. 😇

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  6. I am NOT an early Pierce expert. That said, there are very, very few intact 66 horsepower cars.........most were converted into trucks........because they had three times the power of a 1920's built truck. I know nothing about the car in the photos......nothing. That said, in the early 70's I saw a bunch of Pick-Wick bus engines in a pile in someones shop. They are the commercial 20's version of a 66. All of them are cars now. How do you build an "all Pierce" 66? It was much easier than most realize. Take a WWI Pierce Arrow three ton truck, and build a car. You need to make new gears for the transmission, but otherwise they are the same. That gives you everything you need to make a car. That's why there are almost no surviving Pierce Arrow military trucks left.......they are all cars now. One more comment.......you can NEVER look at any open Pierce Arrow from 1903 to 1920, and 1929 to 1938 and think it is real. Pre 1920 Pierce open cars are probably about 75 percent floor sweepings.......and the numbers go to 90 percent when you get to 1915 and earlier. It's NOT real until you can see photos of it in the 1940's.....and have the rest of the provanance to go with it. Just too many were tow trucks, hay wagons, and the like.

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  7. Taking one look at that wind age tray and I have to say I wouldn’t modify it in any way. The downside is huge. Unless you put an excess pressure dump in one of the lines.......no easy task, and it’s not exactly clear from the photos how the front and rear drain back into the lower portion of the pan.  Strange problem, and the only safe way to get pressure down is make the pump less efficient. Another not very good option.

  8. The set up looks quite good. On this particular engine, you don’t want anything too tight. We always try for perfection when cutting bearings.....that way we usually achieve excellence. In a one lung machine, it’s very forgiving. With today’s oil, I would build the entire thing on the far side of “loose”. Keeping everything square is important. As is making sure the rod is straight. I don’t know the status of your piston or bore......but in this application mass is probably your friend, and a cast iron piston is probably best. If making a new piston, a modern ring package will increase horsepower, reduce oil consumption, and reduce drag. What are the plans? How about photos of the piston and rod?

    • Like 1
  9. On 11/19/2020 at 7:41 PM, dibarlaw said:

    Just for reference. I went with a friend who was interested in this stalled project. Sitting apart for about 15 years. Including a set of 6 wire wheels with new hub caps and trim rings. Some extra parts?? The were originally asking $22K. As of now they are firm at $15,000

    1932 96 Victoria coupe.


    Fantastic car.......fantastic driver, unfortunately project cars are almost impossible to sell today.



  10. 5 hours ago, Walt G said:

    That P-A on Pike's Peak - say is that Ed in the back seat on the right side next to the Boopsie sisters of Boston? ( ya know Trixie Boopsie and Betty Boopsie)

    Yup, that’s me in a seersucker suit..........except I would prefer a Series 36 with a one off body by LeBaron. Notice the date, car is a 1925 model, and it’s taken in 1931.

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