Ron of Chicago

Have you thought about taking the car to the guy that did the rebuild? Maybe he could listen to it and figure it out.

Try: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/

simplyconnected is correct. The clips can go on one of two ways and they are 180 degrees different. Sometimes you can push the interior panel in far enough to see the clip so you will be able to tell how it comes off. This is what it looks like

If you don't receive an answer, try: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/302110...-6-10-06-a.html

Outstanding car BEst of luck with it.

Can you get it to make the noise when the car is sitting still? Removal of the belt will eliminate the generator and water pump.

Great picture. I have a friend that used to own a bodyshop that still has one of these in his house. I like the TV

You can try the Hudson guys at the classic car.com site. They will be able to let you know.

Try this http://www.shop.com/+-a-Ford+Door+Handle+Removal+Tool-g1-st.shtml

It's great to enjoy this hobby with people that have a sense of humor and don't take it all to serious. We all need a little lightheartedness once in a while. Glad that you're enjoying the summer and showing your beautiful car so all can appreciate it. If you get bored with it, i'd be glad to drive it for a year, lol. Best of luck with it.

According to the "Standard Catalog of American Cars" 1805-1942, the serial numbers were located on the frame left side rail under the hood.

I think it's fantastic.

Thanks for posting this Greg Very interesting indeed and great to see. To bad that there is not a place to have access to this sort of thing.

Have you had someone go through the gears and watch the linkage to see if there is an excessive amount of play?

Is the car overheating? Boiling the coolant out of the radiator? After the car is fully warmed up, touch the radiator in various spots to see if you have any cool or cold spots. This will tell you that there is blockage in the radiator. Have you tried reverse flushing the radiator? Ot the flushing the block? You may have a lot of rust build up in the block.

An ambitious project to say the least and I wish you a lot of luck with whatever you do with the car. They are great looking cars in my eyes once they are finished. Something I learned about these cars and gangsters. The gangsters didn't like this style with the front doors hinged from the front and the rear doors hinged from the rear. It is said that the opposing mobsters would run up to the car and easily wrap a chain around the two handles thereby not allowing the occupants to get out. They could then shoot them like fish in a bowl.

How does it shift?

I think you would be making a terrible mistake getting the car. They fall apart and even Mr. Nadar wrote about them. I think you should pass on it and allow me to get it out of there. OK, so that wasn't very honest. I have to agree with Rusty. They are good cars and wouldn't mind having one. They are fun but do need attention (I guess the same as any classic) that you have to keep up on. Parts are readily available. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

According to my book "Catalog of American Car ID Numbers 1960 - 1969 your numbers decifer this way. 8 = 8 cylinders 7 = Jetstar I 4 = 1964 A = Assembled in Atlanta Georgia Last 6 numbers are production sequence Style 64 is the model year 1964 3457 is the syle - Jetstar I 2dr. sports coupe The trim 305 according to my book states that it should read 305V which is Red Vinyl and a Paint code of V would make it a Red car. However, two letters indicate the bottom and top colors respectively. A Red body with a Red top. Could the first V be for the interior? Did they make a two tone car in those years? I'm sure one of the smarter guys here will chime in to answer. But I will agree with Oldsfan that were a little over 16,000 made. Also, are you sure that it is V V and not W? Somewhere in it's life it may have had the hood changed and they used one from a Midnight Mist car. I also think that it may be a desireable car, as desireability is up to the one that likes it.

Thanks for clarifying that Joe.

Ram Rod 350, same as 1968 Forced air system with scoops under the front bumper Special 4 bbl carb. ( I can give you the number if you need it) Number 5 cast on the front of left cylinder head and the rear of the right one. Manual brakes only Letter "M" in the VIN Simple decal on the front fenders (see my avatar) above marker lights The hood has it's raised blocks painted different from body color Heavy duty (4 Row) radiator High speed special harmonic balancer (thicker and heavier then the standard 350 one) Black plastic inner fender wells with cut outs for the air induction system Rough idle due to the 308 degree cam Front and rear sway bars and boxed lower rear control arms If it still has the tag on the oil filler tube it should be a "Q" code Price is totally dependent on what someone is willing to pay. Hope this helps

You don't say but I will assume that you have a 5.0L VIN Y. Each engine with a different VIN number has a different procedure. The spec I have is 20 degrees @ 1100 RPM's in park. 1)Engine must be at normal operating temperature with choke fully open. Turn A/C and all accessories off. Connect tachometer to engine. Connect timing light to No.1 spark plug. 2) With engine running, install a jumper wire between terminals "A" and "B" of diagnostic connector. Connector is located under left side of instument panel near steering column. 3) Set timing at specified engine RPM. Recheck timing after tightening distributor housing. With engine still running, remove jumper wire from diagnostic connector. Hope this helps.

I think your car is lacking in many areas. The model and style are something that needs a lot of work. I think that the best thing that you could do is to sell the car (to me) so that way you won't have to keep working on it. Far to much work needs to be done to make it really nice (wink) Ron P.S. I hope you know that I am just kidding you. A great looking car that I would love to own.

Looks like it may be a little tough to get in and out of. Neat looking ride though.

Hey John I too live in Des Plaines and I know the car. I worked for a company that sold that car. I remember it when it came in after it had sat for a very long time. I read the code as: 55 - 2511 = 55 is 1955, 2511 is Chieftain 2 dr. sedan Trim code 270 is Black/Gray cloth Hope this helps Ron