KGround

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/parts_counter_2.html#runtz solid state 6-12V inverter $100, about halfway down the screen on the right

But from the outside can't the thieves just turn the door handles down and slip off the chain ? ... and shame on the mobsters for letting the other mobsters get close enough to chain them up in the first place - thought these guys were supposed to shoot first and ask questions later *L*

Just a general comment about amp meters -- there are several different ways to connect the amp meter, and the reading you get will mean different things depending on how it is connected in your car. If the meter is connected in the battery lead, that is, between the battery and the rest of the electrical system, then you are reading what is going into or coming out of the battery + amps for charging and - amps for discharging. Normal operation on this system would have the meter near zero most of the time after the battery has been recharged after starting, regardless of which electrical devices are being operated. The other way to connect the meter is in the generator or alternator output lead. In this case the meter is reading generator output and it will not usually have a negative side to the scale. Normal operation here is to read higher amps just after starting as the battery is being recharged, lower amps in the day time with no lights and higher amps as lights or more electrical equipment is turned on.

John Gelfer: Many of the currently offered (new) overdrive units are derivatives of the Laycock DeNormanville electric overdrive which first appeared (to the best of my knowledge) in Austin Healy 100/6 and Triumph TR3 in the late 50s or early 60s. They were later used (same unit) in Volvos with electrically operated overdrive. Now basically the same unit is being offered for mid sized pickups and RVs, so they must be pretty strong. My experience with them in the brit cars back in the day is that they are pretty bullet proof but are somewhat susceptible to sticky shifting problems if the oil is not kept clean or changed every few years. They have an internal oil pump and electric over hydraulic shifting mechanism. They should be pretty readily available if you can find a volvo junkyard or one that has old british cars, and they should be pretty easy to install in most any car that has a long enough driveshaft to permit cutting and inserting the unit. Try to get the crossmember and the yokes from both sides as this will make the mounting and driveshaft modifications much easier.

I've always wanted one of those old 'gangster cars' with the hump on the back, so I recently got this '36 olds. I'm totally new to old car restoration, and right at present I'm trying to see what's available by way of parts so I can decide whether to try to put this car back toward original or go forward with my original plan and make a custom out of it. As you can see, a lot of pieces are missing, but the metal and wood are basically sound, with no big dents, rust holes or rot. I have found sources for glass, headlight cans (costly), and maybe a grille, but I still have a lot of questions. Any comments would be appreciated... 1: The numbers Style 36-3819, body 29314. One internet reference says this calls out an 8 cylinder 5 passenger touring sedan, but mine has a 6 cylinder engine which looks pretty original. Anybody know whether the reference is correct or maybe this is an error ? 2: This car will be a daily driver. Anyone like to comment on whether it would be expected to keep up with traffic with present running gear or whether swapping out the driveline for something more modern might be in order. I will drive on the interstate occasionally, and perhaps take some long trips. 3: How about brakes ? If working properly will the present brakes be ok or is this thing going to scare me every time I? try to stop ? I see that there are conversion kits available from a few sources ... 4: I have been told that it is fairly easy to remove this body and drop it on to a later model frame to get modern running gear, suspension, and brakes all in one step. Any comments about that, or suggestions about what donor vehicle would be good to use ? Hope I haven't offended the purists out there with talk of not keeping this original -- as I say, I am still in the decision phase, so give me your comments either way, please...