Ron of Chicago

The fuse block should have 5 fuses. Top one, 14 amp. Accy, next row, left to right will be 14 amp. Heater, then 2.5 amp instrument light, then 7.5 amp dome. The bottom fuse will be a 14 amp for lighter. Here is a schematic I could send these to you if you prefer and when you print them out they will be full size.

I don't know of any sites for these but if you want to post your numbers I have an ID numbers catalog and would be happy to see what I can find. Ron

JD you have a PM

I agree with rbl2. Owning a car is not a pre-requisite to being in the club. You will find people there that will help you to find the car you want as many of the members have something for sale. You will also get to have all the years of experience from the guys that have bought everything from a partly done car to a hulk. You may want to call the local chapter and see if they will let you sit in on a few meetings. I think you will be pleasantly suprised as to the warm reception you get. The one thing you will want to do is look over the prespective car carefully or maybe with someone that understands old cars. The club will help you in that indeavor also. Whatever you do, best of luck and keep us posted. Ron

There is nothing in the world that is more fun then bonding with family memebers while doing a restoration. It does take a lot of time, money, patience, and can be very frustrating at times. You won't get your money back out of it if you go to sell it, but the bonding process can't be measured in dollars. I would suggest that you find the best car that you can afford to start with. Also something that you can find parts for and is something that you know you will enjoy. Learn all you can from others that own a similar car or have worked on them. Gather your information before you spend your money to see if this is really what you want because there have been many a project sold due to lack of interest, money or just plain ran out of steam. Look over at the chevytalk.com site and see what these guys that have been there done that say. You can gain a wealth of knowledge from these people. Think about joining a club that is either Marque specific or even your local A.A.C.A., that will be another wealth of knowledge that you can't find in any book. Most of all, remember, it's the journey not the destination. And enjoy every minute of it.

The best way to check the vacumm advance is to put a timing light on the car and watch the mark. You should see a difference as to where the mark is between the advance being hooked up and not. If you do not have a timning light you should be able to tell if it's working by the engine R.P.M.'s. there will be an increase in engine speed when the advance is connected if you have vacumm at the line. Did you look to see if the accelerator pump was working like carbking suggested?

For your trunk emblem try this guy, I've had great luck with these people for parts that I couldn't find. Sundell Auto Specialties N.C 704-434-6759 PA 724-794-6827 Best of luck

Let me know if this helps, or I can send it to your e-mail

I agree with the others and especially Frank. You need to see what's inside the tank. If the tank has sat for a long time moisture will accumulate on the interior and rot the tank out. I know this because I just did one for a man. This car sat for 20 years though and the gas was like goo. When I dropped the tank there were small holes all on the upper half of the tank. I had the renu process done and it now looks like a new tank. At the very least, a professional cleaning will start you on the right track plus they will be able to tell you the condition of the inside. Hope it works out well.

The moth balls do work but I for one do not like the smell. I have used two methods succesfully. 1. I place dryer sheet of Downey in a few places.(To me the smell is much better) 2. Shavings from a bar of Irish Spring soap on a paper plate.(one in the front and one in the back) I also do set traps with peanut butter around the garage and catch them that way. Best of luck, as I know they can do a lot of damage and if they do die in the car they will stink it up.

click on the 55-56-57 parts and scroll down to the technical section.

classicbowtie.com

sakimoto, here is what I come up with VIN H8GG H = 352 cubic inch 8 cylinder 8 = 1958 G = Chicago, Illinois assembly plant G = Custom/Custom 300, tudor/ fordor/ business (this is the body style 149759 is the production number of the car. They started the numbering at 100001, so your's will be the 49,759th car made Body 70 B I could not find a b but did find a 70 A which is a custom 300 tudor. I also found a 70 D which is a Business Tudor Y tim? C My guess is you meant trim If Y is the color code then the color is Monarch Blue Trim code C will be Blue/Blue cloth and Vinyl Date 22E 22nd day of May is when the car was built Transmission 2 Overdrive Axle 2 3.56:1 The 352 engine had 300 Horsepower with 10.2:1 compression with a 4 barrel carb I hope this has helped

Yes, the back of the console should have a light in it that comes on with the opening of the doors.

According to the Catalog of American Car ID Numbers 1960-1969 F = Body style - DeVille Convertible 7 = Year - 1967 The last 6 digits are the production numbers starting with 100001/ up This same number should be stamped into the top surface of the frame on the R/H side rail, forward of the front coil suspension. This number is also located on the rear portion of the block behind the left cylinder bank. There should be no problem with parts for that car. Many books show the 1967 DeVille. Hope this helps

If you look in the FAQ you will see how you can post pictures in your message. Just remember to have them small enough so that people won't have to scroll back and forth and up and down just to see them.

I would guess that the only thing you want to do then is put on a dual master cylinder? Try mpbrakes.com, their nice people and will have the answer for you. Best of luck with the car Ron

JP is right. You need to just touch a wire briefly across thos terminals and you'll see an arch. Thanks for catching that JP Ron

You say it doesn't turn over and the brakes are dry. Does that mean the car does not start? The engine is locked? The brakes were never filled with fluid since the restoration? The fluid has leaked out? There's plenty of help here for you. Best of luck with the car and keep us posted as to what you do. It's a great looking car for sure. Ron

I hope this helps you, if not e-mail me and I will send them to you via e-mail

Generator "F" terminal goes to "Field" terminal on regulator Generator "A" terminal goes to "Gen" terminal on regulator "Bat" terminal on regulator goes to Ammeter (the other side of the ammeter goes to the battery. Hope this helps Ron

International used the same firing order as Chevy on all their engines. 4 cyl - 1-3-4-2 in-line 6 cyl - 1-5-3-6-2-4 8 cyl - 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Have you tried the boards at classiccars.com? There's a big contingent of Hudson guys there that are great people. You may find someone there selling something. Good luck Ron

I think REO has the right idea And I also think that if you have done any paintwork yourself that you could do some light sanding of the area and touch it up and buff it out. In fact, I think Eastwoods has a kit just for that purpose. Don'tcha just want to get a hold of the inconsiderate person that does stuff like that <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Whatever you do, I wish you luck. Ron

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I like your thinking (Olde de 37) I'd be interested in seeing a picture so be sure to let us know when you set something up. You know you can get some free space from car domain or webshots? In any case, I'm glad to see you're not discouraged and I'll ask around to some of the club members I'm afilliated with to see if we can solve the puzzle. Now get out there and get busy working on it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Ron