rocketraider

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Our front yard was just dirt of which was kept swept with a stick broom and us kids played pig eye marbles in. </div></div> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Now that brings back some memories. For some reason my Grandma Buckner thought that stick brush-broom fit my hands just perfectly. I was cleaning out a shed out there a few weeks ago and found one of her last brush-brooms- "bresh-broom", she called it. She preferred making them out of lilac bushes. We also had a big snowball bush that I had to go get my own switches from when Mama deemed it necessary to stripe my hide. If I didn't bring the one she wanted, I had to go back until I got one she liked. I was glad when the thing died- I pulled it out of the ground with a Super A Farmall tractor. My Aunt Merle used to try to switch my cousin Betty with snowball switches. Merle would grab Betty by the arm and lift her up a little off the floor to hold her for the whuppin', but Betty would pull her legs up under her skirt like a landing gear where Merle couldn't get to them. Ah, memories. You wouldn't think a 48-year-old would reminisce that much about his Southern childhood, especially compared to the modern world. Didn't know how good I had it in a tobacco field.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got to put in a word of support for Twitch - if "most of the group" hasn't heard of funk we have a worse demographic than I thought. As you can see by his post of the no longer so young George Clinton (Parliament), this has been around at least 35 years. Was everybody listening to Debbie Boone? </div></div> The one I liked was when GC in one of his spacealiciousastracerebralconfunkshunisms asked "Can you imagine Doobie in yo' Funk?" A veiled reference to the Doobie Brothers, whose name in itself was a thinly veiled reference <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />. Maybe we should ask "Can you imagine Debbie in yo' Funk?" Ain't nuthin' wrong with a little hard-co' Fonk airry now 'n then- I've got a whole box of 70s funk CDs for when the mood strikes. Of course, right now there's a classical station playing in the background. WCPE 89.7 in Raleigh NC, theclassicalstation.org if you're interested. I find that it relaxes me greatly.

585786 is a 1964 Olds 394. The 4 indicates which block casting mould was used. The head #s translate: <span style="font-weight: bold">J</span>= four-barrel engine, 512004 is the engine serial # (which before 1968 didn't necessarily match the car VIN) and <span style="font-weight: bold">S</span> indicates a Starfire engine. All are correct for a Jetstar I. 394 had 4.125" cylinder bores. 1/4" cam thrust isn't excessive. These engines were designed for AC 44 plugs, which are a medium-cold heat range plug. The shop manual indicates that Starfire engines in police service or exclusive highway-speed driving should use 43 plugs. I tried those once with a little leaded racing fuel in the tank and they lead fouled in one Saturday night's worth of low-speed cruising. Your parts guy may have given you an equivalent plug to the 43. Try a set of 45s or equivalent if you keep having fouling problems, but you may want to install a 160 or 170 degree thermostat if you do that.

Metallurgy back then was different than it is now. TEL was used to cushion the valve to seat contact area on the heads, and without it the valve seats WILL recede into the head if the car is driven harder than leisurely. Around 1970 or so, the carmakers realised they could induction-harden the valve seat areas or install hardened seat inserts and run their engines on unleaded fuel. Compression ratios dropped in 1971 which negated the need for octane boosting additives. But I can guarantee if you try to run 93 octane unleaded in any cast-iron engine with >9.5:1 CR, that engine is not going be very forgiving. Soft, slippery metals such as lead, lithium, molybdenum, zinc or sodium are very effective metal to metal lubricants and are routinely added to high-pressure/high-performance petroleum-based lubricants. I have started running Diesel-spec engine oil in all my old cars for that reason. Diesel formulations still have the metallic additives that reduce run-off during storage and provide essential start-up lubrication. Current gasoline-exclusive oil formulae no longer have those additives. A newer car that is driven every day with little chance of oil run-off can get by without them because the engine metallurgy is way advanced from 15-25 years ago. Before an argument ignites about Diesel-spec oil being unsuitable for gasoline engines, all you need do is look at the API rating on the oil container. Rotella, Delo, Drydene, all of them meet API SL (highest gasoline rating) as well as CH-4 (highest Diesel rating).

They've got some kind of unholy sponsorship arrangement with the owner of that site. I believe they're footing most of the cost of running it. I rarely visit it anymore- most of my posts get deleted once the site owner sees them. Goes back to an incident a couple years ago. Amazing how some folks can't stand it when people refuse to kiss their hindquarters.

There's something about that "Holiday" word that Olds-types just can't resist this time of year... Thanks Pete, and the same to all of you!

You'll probably have to loosen the bottom edge of the fender to have enough room to work in there. Then you'll probably encounter seized bolts that will break when you try to remove them <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />. A trick I've used to remove scripts when I have better ones to replace with, is to drive a putty knife behind the script and tap with a hammer. This shears the mounting stud. Then use a barrel clip to attach the new script. On the moulding, you probably have no choice but to go from behind and remove the mounting clip nuts. The nuts are usually covered with sealer so you'll have to scrape that off to get the socket on. Any chance you have a young'un with small hands who can get behind there?

Thanks for the address Steve. All of you, please share this with your Olds circle and make sure to send a card while we still have her.

There's just something about that phrase this time of year... we Olds types can't resist it! The best of the season to you and yours, and your favorite Buricks too!

Just something about that phrase that we Olds types can't resist this time of year... The best of the season to you and yours!

As always around this time of year, Happy "Holidays" to you and yours!

No problem- sometimes dealing with such a company is enough to drive people over the hedge. I gotta admit Maniac's idea is intriguing...

I've seen one company offering rebuilt digital dashes on e-bay, but I can't remember the name. I found it searching for Bravada stuff. I like 90-92 Toronados a lot, but the digital dash display scares me away from them.

100% stock is not relevant here. I like a modified car as much as anyone. The point is that Leno, and especially his builder, did not believe the Toronado FWD platform was capable of supporting what they wanted to do and chose to not only use a non-Olds powerplant, but to totally disregard what makes a Toronado a Toronado- <span style="font-weight: bold">front wheel drive</span>. If they wanted to be imaginative, and set trends, they would have started with something besides a generic GM engine. That's been done to death and has created a whole genre of boring-ass custom cars. When I see an otherwise nicely done car and find yet another dyked-out 350 Chevy powering it, I tend to lose all interest. As I said earlier- put in a comparable Oldsmobile engine and all wheel drive, and that's something to talk about.

Olds Club of Arizona based in Scottsdale is the only one I know of, but the National Antique Olds Club hosted their National Meet in Prescott a few years ago so I'd think there's some pre-1965 cars there. You can link to the NAOC website using the "Participating Clubs" toolbar to your left. OCAz- 7402 E. Paradise Drive, Scottsdale AZ 85260. In absence of a local marque club, an AACA group is the next best thing! You can use this website to find a local chapter or Region in your state.

Someone from Joisey showed up at my place of business with a large stick, I'd probably give 'em the keys to the joint! And then run like hell! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Maybe you and LaTorre need to get together and take a ride out toward Missouri. I don't think he ever got any satisfaction on that interior kit they botched.

That sounds like the same bullhockey HydraMatic Division spouted in the mid 80s when Turbo-Buicks were toasting 200-4Rs. "We can't build a transmission that will hold up to those engines!". Baloney. What they were saying was the bean counters wouldn't let them spend the money to build one. Interesting how, around 1985 or so after several years of extraordinary transmission warranty claims, they suddenly built a 200-4R that could take it. I mean, after all, they built transmissions that could take big-block Olds, Buick and Pontiac engines. Besides- the Turbo 425 was overengineered in the first place. Had this builder WANTED to build a high-horsepower Olds powerplant for this car, he would have found a way to do it.

403 is an Olds-design engine, used in 1977-79 B-O-P as it was the most emissions-friendly V8 engine GM had in those years. Matter of fact, Olds was selling so many engines to Buick and Pontiac that they ended up having to put Chevy 350s in their own cars, and we all know what that led to. I often wonder if the lawsuits and payout influenced GM to ditch Oldsmobile. 403 are torquey engines, just what is needed to get a heavy wagon moving. They respond well to typical hot-rod mods, and can benefit greatly from using earlier Olds small-block heads though you will have to ream out the bolt holes for the 403's 1/2" headbolts. Their weak link is that they are windowed main web engines and can't safely go much over 5g. You'd have to design your own MFI. I know several people who have used Holley Pro-jection TBI on Olds engines. 400/425/455 are kinda scarce these days. 65-67 are the best 400 engines but those and most 425 use 45 degree lifter bank angle and cams have to be custom made. They also use large diameter lifters that may be pricey. 68-9 400s are strictly for the restoration crowd- long stroke and prone to grenading if pushed too hard. Early 400/425 are short stroke engines that like to rev. Another weakness of the Olds engine is the oiling system. It will tend to suck the pan dry at high RPM and it will all collect in the rocker area. A serious Olds engine will have to have restrictors installed in the cam and lifter oil galleries to keep the oil on the crankshaft, and lot of people also modify the head and valley drainback holes so it'll run back to the pan quicker. Prices are comparable to Ford FE stuff, i.e. expensive. 350-400 horsepower is no problem with the Olds engine- some years, 2-barrel 455s made over 300 horsepower, and Ninety-Eights regularly had 365 hp 455s installed- that's why you find so many nice 98 sedans sitting around engine-less. www.realoldspower.com is a good resource for high-performance Olds engine builds. And no, sticking a 350 Chevy in your VC won't stir up any bile. We'll just write you off as a closet Chevy case and yawn when we look under your hood ("oh god, not another crate 350")! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> But if you decide to go that route, you need a Chevelle parts car with a good wiring harness, because all the electric stuff is on opposite side from an Olds engine.

If you ordered one thing, and they made and sent something else, then the screwup is theirs. If you have a copy of the original order and invoice showing what you ordered, and shipping papers identifying it as a different construction, point that out. I wasn't happy with the California CC I got for my green Starfire either. It is a heavy duty outdoor rated cover (overkill since the car is garaged), but the fabric is so satiny and slick that it is hard to put on or take off the car single-handed. One of the best covers I've ever owned is a Budge from Auto-Zone, that I paid $49.95 for 7 years ago. It fits the Ninety Eight well, has done a good job keeping dust etc off the car and was reasonably waterproof the few times the car had to stay outside in wet weather. It needs repair where the hood ornament has poked thru it, but it's about as easy and cheap to get another one. Trouble is it's hard to find that size any more.

You're not the first, and I doubt you'll be the last to take a reaming from that company. All I ask is that we not have a bash-fest here on the forums. Keep your complaints and comments factual and professional, and spend your money elsewhere. That's the best way I know to get the point across to someone like that. You can't stay in business if there is no business. You need to file a written complaint with your credit card company for non-delivered merchandise. They'll generally put heat on companies that do not deliver product ordered by credit card. It comes under fraud statutes in most states.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can't say these are my picks for ALL Car movies but here goes.. BEST RACING MOVIE GREASED LIGHTNING With Richard Pryor inan early role as ELMO SCOTT the only sucessful Black driver thus far in NASCAR RACING this one sticks closer to the real story and doesen't try to be too PC</div></div> Let's make this [color:"red"]<span style="font-weight: bold">WENDELL</span> Scott. The Scott family still live in their compound about a mile from here, and the city of Danville renamed Beavers Mill Road "Wendell Scott Drive" to finally recognise his accomplishments. Several of Wendell's #34 cars are still in the garage area behind the house, and I had the honor and pleasure of talking with him shortly before he died. Wendell wasn't completely happy with the movie, either.

The best I can do is that they are not Oldsmobile. I'm reasonably sure that the 4227349 and 9850326 are mid-to-late 60s judging by the similar part #s used in my Olds books.

Hee hee- nothing in the power window wiring circuit is really simple. Try checking the switch first before tearing into the door. If that doesn't pan out, remove the door trim and try running a jumper wire to each terminal on the motor (be warned the motor plug is sometimes a real bear to get off). You can also do that at the switch block by jumpering from the feed terminal (red/white wire) to the UP terminal (dark blue wire) and the DOWN terminal (brown wire). The blue/white and brown/white are for the right door window and the green and purple are for rear doors. My bet is it's either the switch or a broken terminal in the switch block. You should be able to get the <span style="font-weight: bold">?</span> shaped terminal at a GM dealer, and possibly the switch as it was used for many years in all GM carlines. I've also seen corrosion and rust cause problems like this. I had a 73 88 convertible that I had to clean the switch internally about once a year to keep the windows working. If it turns out to be the motor, replacing it is not difficult but requires a 3/4" hole saw to access the motor attaching bolts. Once you get to those, the motor can be removed and replaced with the window in the car and raised fully UP. All this including electrical diagrams and diagnosis/troubleshooting is in the 1976 Fisher Body Manual.

An Olds 350 will drop right into your engine bay, on the same mounts and all accessories will bolt right onto it. For that matter a 403 will too. Then you can think about 400-425-455 Olds engines. For performance parts, pretty much anything that works on an Olds 350 also works on 330-403 330 isn't really that difficult to find stuff for. They have steel cranks and are tough little beasts, fully capable of making more than 1 hp/cubic inch without a lot of mods. www.usapartssupply.com, or check the parts vendor list sticky in OCA General. If you're absolutely determined to put that Chevy crate engine in it (where's the puke smiley? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ), you'll need motor mount perches from a Chevelle, a Chevy bolt pattern transmission, and you will also need a Chevelle wiring harness since everything is on the opposite side from the Olds engine. I'm assuming the car in question is a Cutlass or F85, since only Delmont 88 fullsize cars got 330s in 1967.

What are the odds of <span style="font-weight: bold">THREE</span> 1942 Oldsmobiles being less than 75 miles apart? In Nawth Cackalacky no less...<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Bob and Julian, when y'all get those 42s together, let me know. I want to come see.