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Keith L.

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Everything posted by Keith L.

  1. From my understanding, 15 inch were standard on the '42 Zephyr. Folks liked them because they had the clips on them and '41 hubcaps would fit on them...looking standard. My '41 had 15 inch rims. Somewhere along the way someone put them on.. Problem I had was I needed to put spacers on the wheels to keep the new radials from scraping the tie rods on sharp corners. And the spare tire won't fit in the trunk well...too fat.
  2. Jeff, Nice photos! Yes spring is here. Casting Several steering wheels. '40 Translucent Red and a '41 "Peachglow " for a Conv. Coupe similar to yours but '41.
  3. Keith here. I don't want to presume, are you sure you're mounting the right pulls? the Ashtray and Glovebox pulls look alike but the mounting is different. The screws for the Glovebox pulls mount straight down about 1/1/8" apart, like you said., The screws for the the ashtray mount on a 45 degree angle, and again about 1 5/8" apart. You may have them switched.
  4. Keith here. Most of you know me as the guy that makes Lincoln Zephyr interior plastic items. That’s true, however not only do I make knobs I also make other stuff for other makes of cars or projects that challenge or inspire me. Case in point. For some time now I’ve wanted to make a mold of a gearshift knob and be able to suspend objects in the clear resin. But what could I suspend in it? Then I reached back into my teenage brain. In my feckless and callow youth my friends and I would make fake coins using aluminum foil and a dime or quarter. We would carefully cut them out and place them on the floor in the halls of the my Junior High and wait till someone thought they found a dime, stoop over the pick it up and crumple the fake coin. Great fun. The clear resin in the dome acts as a magnifying lens so any object encased appears larger in size. From time to time I’ll post other things I’m working on. Perhaps you may find them interesting.
  5. Colin, many thanks. I'll call.
  6. Looking for a source for 1937 glove box liner. Any help, greatly appreciated. Be safe.
  7. Keith here. Putting a few items on ebay that Knobbsoup makes. If you know anyone that's interested, let them know. Thanks. Take care.
  8. Keith here. Yes, I make all three firewall boots. 1936 thru '39 single hole. 1940 thru '48 two hole for Zephyrs (second hole is for the gearshift lever0 and 1940 thru '48 for the Continentals ( because the Connies have a lower dash profile the boot is slightly different with a curve.) Photos to come.
  9. Keith here, just wanted to let everyone know that I am posting some recently molded product for sale on E-bay. If your interested, please take a look. Pass the word if you know someone looking - Keith Knobsoup@gmail.com Here's a sneak preview ...
  10. Tom, Yes, Yes. Congratulations! And Sept is my birth month. BTW, I won the bid on the '41 horn button on Ebay you alerted me too. Thank you. Keith
  11. Bruce, thank you for the post. I have cast and reproduce the gearshift knob, window escutcheon and window crank knobs in ivory for the '48 Plymouth. Sorry, I have not cast the 1940 P9 Plymouth interior items. You are willing to send me samples (headlight, throttle and choke knobs) I would be happy to give it a go.. Contact me at knobsoup@gmail.com Keith
  12. In 2001 I was living in Lost Wages, NV. In the spring I went down to see my grown kids in the LA area,. On the way back I stopped to see Merv Adkins in the Pomona area to buy some parts I needed. While there, I took a few shots of his yard beside his work shop. Here is what his “yard” looked like back then. He had stacks and stacks of doors, hoods, deck lids, all manner of Zephyr parts all leaning up against the side fences. Cars as far as I could see. Several years later Merv decided to divide the property and most of what you see in the photos had to be disposed of. A lot of it went to scrape.
  13. The next challenge for me will be to reproduce the 1941 vent window rubber. I have been contemplating it for some time now. I have a really nice original set to copy. I'll keep you abreast of my progress.
  14. Yes! Yes! Yes! Very good indeed. Congratulations! I know you work long and hard many years on your beauty. I'm sure this will be the first of a long list. Keith
  15. Hi, Keith here. Just letting friends know that I've posted a few items on e-bay. Check them out if you or someone you know is looking for replacement parts. Gearshift knobs, dash board sets, ashtray pull, horn button, Appleton spotlight set, etc. ... Thanks, and hope you're having a great summer. Keep in touch.
  16. Bruce, Yep. small but very important.
  17. Fellow Zephyrists, Help. To be a full-service steering wheel supplier. I could use these parts shown. I will pay top dollar for the '41 horn ring and button. Any shape but broken. The spring holds the horn button in place. I tried having them made but the spring company wants $22.50 each with a minimum order of three dozen. Yikes. Let me know. Keith
  18. Keith here. Attached are photos of two new items I make. Both are for the 1946-48 Lincoln and Lincoln Continental ignition switches. The long cylindrical one was the hardest. There are four parts to the mold; the base, inside cylinder, outside cylinder and top. The top and bottom molds register the inside cylinder mold to keep it equal distance to the outside wall. The short plastic one was fairly easy, however to get the liquid resin down inside the mold I use hypodermic needle-like device the forces the resin down deep. Getting it out after it cures takes needle- nose pliers. Also, for the first time I will be going to the Lincoln Zephyr Swap Meet on Saturday April 1 in Lancaster, PA. I have moved and now live close by. I’ll be bringing several new steering wheels and samples of my work. I’ll also bring some molds so you can see how the casting process is done. I look forward to finally meet several friends I’ve made over the years. If you know your going, and need some interior items, let me know and I’ll be sure to pack them. Thanks. Hope to see you there.
  19. If you're wondering what I look like. Here's a photo of me at work on a wheel. Just finished buttoning it up and ready to go into my pressure chamber. And another of me when I was eight with my brother, Kent (we're twins) We built this car for the "Wheel on parade" in Burbank, CA. Won First Place. I'm pushing. I've been into cars for ever so long. K
  20. Keith here, First step in recasting a wheel...getting rid of the old plastic. Gonna see if I can post a movie. Using my pipe wrench I break off the old deteriorated plastic. If the video is a bid shaky, I was doing everything with my left hand while I held the Iphone with my right. I guess I could have talked to you also, but I didn't think of it. If the movie doesn't come through I'll just post some photos. Who knows? This may be a start of a new career. I could show you how I mold stuff. K Breaking_apart_a_wheel.mov
  21. Tom, My wife, Cindy just saw your car.."It's beautiful!" K
  22. Tom, You are absolutely right. All done hunched over and inside a cavity or down from the Top or up from under the car. K
  23. Keith here, again. As I’ve said, many members in the club have helped by loaning me their original parts to make reproductions. I started about eight years ago with trying to make just the dash items for my ’41 Zephyr. Now I manufacture most 1936 through ’48 plastic parts…and still growing. Dashboard knobs, steering wheels, parking and taillight lenses, and some rubber parts. All thanks to you. Well, Alan Whelihan called me and asked it I would make the small high beam and turn signal jewels for the ’41 Continental. There are reproductions for the red high beam jewel (early Ford suppliers) but none that I know of for the green jewels. He sent me a sample. Sometimes the hardest reproductions are not the largest but conversely the smallest. Such is the case with reproduction jewels. This one was a challenge. First I had to have a tiny pour spout for resin, then be able to cut off the hardened sprue and finally a way to hold it while it was sanded smooth. First photos with three panels: I realized I couldn’t use a sprue like plastic models use, a small stem-like tree branch. It would be difficult getting the liquid resin poured into the mold and the jewel out of the mold after casting. Model plastic parts are injected under pressure (a lot), I have to pour. So I made a flat sprue out of styrene from the hobby shop. Mounted it on the jewel and attached to a small round plug. Then made a wall out of PVC to hold the silicone. Poured the silicone and waited sixteen hours. I made two of these molds to speed up the production (first mold is down in the rt. hand corner.) Two days time. Second: After curing, the mold is ready for dark red (or green) translucent resin. I have to squeeze the mold to fill it with resin. In a two step process, I vacuum the two-part resin (A plus B, like epoxy) in a vacuum chamber to remove air trapped in the liquid resin, pour it into to mold and then I cured the resin in a pressure pot under about 45 to 60 pounds pressure depending on the product. Pressure squeezes out any remaining trapped air in the resin down to zip. All the products I make are vacuumed then cured in a pressure chamber to ensure they are bubble free. Esp. the steering wheels. Three and four: After curing I remove the jewel by again squeezing it. To remove the flat sprue on the casting I drilled a hole in a half-inch acylic. the same size as the OD of the jewel. Nice tight fit. Then I just sand off the sprue on the sander and punch out the jewel from the back side. Five: Sanding. Six: Done. And that’s what it takes to make a simple small jewel. Thanks for letting me blather on. Any questions. knobsoup@gmail.com
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