Peter J.Heizmann

Judd...what is your case example, assuming you must have filed a complaint with Coker based upon the amount of tires. It would be nice to hear the whole scenario so as to benefit all of us (Hobbyist and Supplier??) I cannot fathom from your negative post, that, you did not call Coker, or, e-mail them. How did they respond? Any news is good news to fix a problem! If you want to put a "dig" on this topic about a vendor without telling us of your attempts at satisfaction, then, hit "send" without helping us...well, that ain't too neat. How far did you go, or, better yet, how interested were you in communicating your problem to the vendor?? Regards, Peter J.

Hi, PackardV8...hope all is well. So as not to get off Randall's topic, I will start a new thread tomorrow to give you my opinion and real world synopsis of metal casting as I experience daily. Take care, Peter J.

Good case example, Carleton... I know we may be detracting from Randall's tire problem. My experience with gears is extensive. Not enough time in the day to get into it. I have had many quote requests for cast gear blanks over the years. Then, the RFQ (Customer) requests hobbing. Hobbing of gears is a such a specialty within itself, that, we walk away from it. Hobbing folks talk in the "millimeter world". We in sand-cast Ferrous castings talk in the "+/- .030 world". Whatever, we all must assume some responsibility when communicating our needs to old iron suppliers. Sorry, Randall, that I took this off your subject. Regards, Peter J.

Randy, glad to hear of your success, so far, and the attention received through the forum. Personally, I feel Coker will satisfy your dilemna based upon my satisfaction, and, others who posted satisfaction here. No vendor/supplier is perfect. I am sure you realize that. Believe me. I had my butt reamed up one side and down the other this past Tuesday due to "shifted" castings sent to a major account. After raising the roof with my guys, it turned out, a well intentioned molder thought the castings looked OK in his eyes. We backed up the error, re-cast the parts ($6,900), and, take it as a lesson learned to re-train internally. It will happen again sometime down the road, I am certain. If it happens with the casting in question, then, "shame on us. We deserve getting reamed out!. After thinking this scenario over, we hobbyist', on the positive note to Coker, Roadster Factory (in my case example on repro TR6 radiator hoses that failed twice above), we must support them as best we can. In turn, they must support us, which, I feel confident they will as it is their business purpose. Every once in awhile gliches occur in communication. (In your case, the original phone call that met with disatisfaction.) It's human nature. A vendor's business purpose/mission goal should not categorically be trashed based upon a few bad experiences the customer endured. To keep the old iron on the road, we are somewhat at the mercy of a diminishing resource: "Correct Reproduction Sources". In turn, "we hobbyist' have a vested responsibility to communicate to the supplier, as you have done, where they have shortcomings, they correct (re-train), and, everyone benefits down the road". That's how I see the whole picture. May be off base, whatever... Regards, Peter J.

What teacher begs the question. There are thousands of them. If that is all the interest you have in someone assisting you, I would take 1937hd's answer and go from there. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

earmea...My thoughts are you should at least have the courtesy to post "who gave your daughter such an assignment, what is the assignment's purpose, what is the end goal." There are many learned automobile enthusiasts on this website that would better serve your query with more information. Personally, I look at cars within the hobby, no matter what club affiliation, as simply "old cars", to include mine, and that's it friend. The maintenance of said cars is where the fun enters the equation. Regards, Peter J.

Bob, if I recall accurately, the jargon for remnants of "re-treads" we all see on the highways is "...an alligator at mile marker whatever in the hammer lane". Come to think of it, they do look like alligators. These lazy-hazy days of Summer are getting to me, Wayne. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Proud of you, Tommy...another good one. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Bugs...point well taken. Heat disipates naturally. Like you, we are only going by Mr. Barlett's description of the "fire". I have first hand experience of "cast iron" warping while in "steel shot" Wheelabrators simply by the "blast" heat generated. (The Wheelabrators blast the foundry sand off castings.) In answer to your point, and, based upon little detail of Mr. Bartlett, if the fire's heat melted solder on the radiator, I would still check the frame of the car, as Bob suggested, above, for warpage. In a progressive order, aluminum is liquid at 900 degrees, cast iron/ductile iron in my industry is poured around 2600-2675 degrees, steel is usually around 3100 degrees, so... the heat generated into the area of the car's fire certainly dried out the air starting from top-to-bottom. The spokes, obviously old, were more than likely hotter than the daylights at the time of the fire. Dried out even further by the fire than their age, more than likely. Just my observation based on the author's information provided. I remain with my above suggetion, along with Bob's, that, the frame, welds, wooden spokes, brass radiator should be looked at very closely for warpage so Mr. Bartlett does not enter into a project that could be very costly. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Bob, good points to Mr. Bartlett. Aluminum is poured (liquid) around 900 degrees, so, that tells me it was a "hot" one. As Bob stated, check that frame for warpage, and, while your at it, check any welds. As for the wood spokes, I am only making an assumption based on little fact, that they may not be burnt, but, sure are brittle from the heat. Who knows. Regards, Peter J.

Terry, thank you for the info. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Howdy, Wayne...thanks for posting the photos. After most meets, there are usually some folks that post, but, so far, not in the AGNM's case. I'm certain someone will get back soon. Regards, Peter J

Hi, folks... Could anyone who attended the AGNM in Cedar Rapids give us the scoop on the show? Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hi, Wardy...hope all is well. See, folks, some of the early forum members are still around. Thank you for the offer to find parts, Wardy. I will check my list and e-mail you later today. Nice to hear from you again. Regards, Peter J.

Bill...welcome to the Forum. Just a note of advise for better exposure. Re-post to the "Buy/Sell" category on the main page and the "Buick Club of America" as well. Scroll down on the main page... Regards, Peter J.

Hi, Robbie...Welcome to the Forum. My thoughts are "it is totally up to you". Are your goals to restore it ground up for shows, or, a nice daily driver, and so on. Does not sound like insurmountable problems, unless, there are other major problems you did not list. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hi, Rich... I know your question was hashed about over the years. At the top of the Main Page, click on Search When the search screen prompts, fill in the blocks: 1-All Forums 2-Word to Search for: Correct Paint 3-Entire Phrase 4-Date Range: All Posts 5-click on "Search" There was a post titled: 55-Correct Paint on Engine dated 8/24/01, and, others that you can check out. Regards, Peter J.

Centurion (Hi, Brian)... Good post. I put on a set of Coker 185-15 Red Lines on my TR6 2 years ago. No problem, however, your scenario peaked my interest as to "tire dies", "hose dies", and so on, when a VENDOR offers their "wares" as reproductions/original specifications. Why did I reference "VENDOR"?? To me, anyone selling reproduction parts to original specifications is exactly that: A VENDOR. We, within the hobby, are the "FACTORY" in our attempts to keep the vehicles to "FACTORY" specs, thus, the advertisers in the miriad of magazines we read, are the "VENDORS". Related experience: In 1999, I became serious about "FACTORY" detail on my TR6. Ordered a set of heater hose/radiator "CORRECT" hose from the Roadster Factory. (These hoses are ugly, but, correct. Rubber hose with a canvas-feeling, close to grass colored green material.) When the set arrived, I thought "great". Drained/flushed the whole system. Thought, that's it. Done. WRONG!! The rubber composite deteriorated during Winter storage. In the Spring of 2000, I did, what a lot of us do, get the car ready for the Summer. I could not believe it...all the green hoses turned into a dark black color. Called the Roadster Factory. They were honest, and, in all fairness, are an overall good VENDOR. They informed me the hoses are made to FACTORY SPECS in Taiwan, and, they admitted they have a composite problem with Taiwan. Cost without my labor: $90 range. Going for a 1st Junior, stupid me, I orered another set, hoping the problem was resolved...Nope! This time in the Spring of 2001, only 4 hoses turned "Black", but, the rest remained the ugly green. Contacted Rimmer Brothers in England, and, they too, admitted they have a problem with Taiwan. Finally, true to their word and being a good "Overall" VENDOR, the Roadster Factory sent a 3rd set of hoses. Working well ever since. Only problem is I probably spent $300 for all of the above. Where/What/Who generates the rubber composition at "rubber" related products remains my question. Coker, and, probably many other VENDORS, tout, they spent thousands of dollars buying up "original dies" to satisfy your needs. My question: "WHERE ARE THE DIES UTILIZED TO PRODUCE THE PRODUCT AS ADVERTISED???". In this day and age of ISO Certification/QS-9000 Certification of commerical products within this Country and a growing number of Foreign Countries, where do "OUR HOBBY RELATED VENDORS" actually manufacture the product?? Sorry for rambling... Peter J.

sshudgens... Please do not take my comments as cynical, however, if you are asking for the names and addresses of collector car owners, you probably will strike out if the owner is intelligent. I may be misinterpreting your intent here, however, most owners today watch their rear view mirrors very carefully when driving collector cars around, let alone when they they pull into a motel parking lot, or, their home driveway. You may want to post some specifics. Your query/intent is somewhat vague. Regards, Peter J.

Hi, Steve... You can get the Antique tags when you settle in PA. Randy Berger's post was a good one detailing PA's regs. I think someone above mentioned it now costs $90 per car. I paid $65 back in 1997. You have to take photos of the 4 angles of the vehicle and submit them with your registration form. Matt: Dave has an excellent idea about posting a form within one's company. In my plant alone, there are no less than 3 managers that have about 23 cars between them. I'm going to poll them tomorrow for their thoughts. Regards, Peter.

Been there myself, Dave. Would not even think of getting you started as I would do the same. Ames, at the time, looked great in my rear view mirror. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Dave...thank you for agreeing with my thought pattern above. Matt does, in fact, have a good idea. As for Reading, Pittsburgh, Cincinnati? Heck, you have complained so much about all 3 over the years on the forum, that, I simply take it in stride. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Hi, Matt... I echo what Dave, Frank, and, others stated about PA's Antique license rules. In 1997, I had Antique plates put on my 1972 TR-6. Why? Back then, my thought pattern was I only put 2-300 miles per year on it. I travel with extensively utilizing a company vehicle, and, I guess, basically to save a few bucks back then. In 1997, the fee was only $65. (Though I do not have to get it inspected yearly, I have it done annually just for safety. The only difference is an inspection sticker does not have to be on the windshield.) Had only 2 experiences with the local police: Both involved police facing me at red lights with, I suppose anxiety at its height to pull me over and see why there was no inspection sticker. Of course, when the light turned green, these 2 guys made immediate U-turns, follow me close, see the antique tag, then, back off. Relative to Dave's case example, there was a guy in the Reading, PA area that could be seen 365 days a year driving a ratty looking old Mercury Comet around. He had antique plates. I pondered how he received them, considering, one must send in photos of all 4 angles of the car, along with the application, as they "state the car must be in restored/good condition", not a rust bucket. I suppose some "who gives a damn government employee" in Harrisburg rubber stamped it. Who knows. As for antique auto insurance...it is clearly stated that the car must adhere to parades, car shows, etc., but, not for daily use. If someone creams the car in the workplace parking lot, it may raise eyebrows of the insurance company. The annual mileage limitation of an antique tag, I really can't remember as I never came close to it, is 2500 Antique/5000 Classic. Don't take that to the bank, but, I think that is what the law states. Dave is also on the mark, that, the police have better things to do, however, you always risk an aggressive cop. Also, you risk someone, maybe a fellow worker, that decides to be a whistle-blower out of jealousy, nothing better to do, or, whatever. The mileage limitations I can accept for the owner's safety if they receive an antique/classic plate just to buck the system, totally forget to have it checked over for safety for, say, 12,000 miles. I guess that's the reason for the rule. Regards, Peter J.

John and Diz... You both exerted a lot of thought and time into your immediate posts above. Good job to both of you for passing it along. Pretty well explains the hobby's scenario and reality as we know it, at least on this forum. Regards, Peter J.

Dave, don't blow another head gasket, bud. Let me elaborate. "If I can see it, the judges can see it" is exactly how I approached my car. Simply put, if I see a ratty looking wire, the judge can see the ratty looking wire." In lieu of having a judging sheet, this method worked very well for me. If you want to read things into my statement, go ahead. My procedure was for advise to use seeing as we cannot access judging sheets, at least today. Have a nice one...Peter. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />