old buicks

Contact Tom VanMeeteren 402-359-5762 or tsvanmeet@gmail.com He has LOT of the old ignition parts all NOS

Tom VanMeeteren has all NOS parts

Try Tom VanMeeteren, he has a vast supply of old ignition stuff. 402-359-5762 or tsvanmeet@gmail.com

Model S what?

Can't tell anything from the photo on #20 post. Need to see the inside of the dist cup.

Where can I get an AC fuel pump diaphram or send it to be rebuilt?

dibarlaw, I have been watching this thread and trying to figure out what is going on here. I am having a similar problem with a 1910 model F Buick right now. Tracked it down to a sticky lifter on the front cylinder. I removed .002 from two adjoining sides of the square lifter and it cured the problem. Question is, how are the valve guides? Looseness in the guides will cause all kinds of problems too. As many of you know, I deal in NOS ignition parts for older cars. Someone mentioned a new set of points. I can't tell what distributor you now have on the car, but if you send me a picture of the points, I will send you a new set free gratus to see if that helps. my email address for the pictures is tsvanmeet@gmail.com

Mark, the intake V hole is open because it drips fuel from there when I shut off the engine. I will try to get my wife to ride the running board and adjust the fuel while I drive it today. Robert, that is a good idea because I noticed that someone added a bit of solder to the float when I had it apart. I filed down the most of it but a little solder could certainly throw the float way out of adjustment. Will keep everyone posted. Thanks for the ideas.

I have a Carter BB 1 model #245SA that I have on a 1910 Buick model F. Carb was cleaned in cleaner after complete disassembled, then reassembled and new gasket. Problem is, when going down the road it pops every so often like it isn't burning the gas in the cylinder. I've adjusted the main needle down to almost a kill and then back up to too much fuel. Tried to settle somewhere in the middle but it still pops. What do I do next?

You might also try Tom VanMeeteren Valley, NE 402-359-5762 He has a large inventory of NOS ignition parts.

Bump

Looking to purchase NOS ignition parts from 1910 to 1960's. Need not be in boxes or glass jars and will consider small to very large quantites. Send me a PM at tsvanmeet@gmail.com All leads very much appreciated.

How do I remove the counter weights on the crankshaft so we can grind the crank mains and rods??????

19tom40, Thanks for the reply. I have the column out of the car and will start scraping the accumulated oil and dirt to find that retainer.

I guess I should rephrase the question. What do I have to do to get the light switch rod loose from the lower unit?

Tevel, email me privately, I have the rotor you are looking for. tsvanmeet@gmail.com

Working on restoring a 32 Ford 2 door sedan. Need to remove the steering wheel to fill the cracks and voids. How do I remove it from the column?

Nasblu, is the distributor for sale? Tom

Danny, do you have a distributor for the Buick and how much? Tom

Pete, I have an old Plymouth engine setting in my storage shed. Not sure of the year but it is early. Can you send me some identifying information or pictures of your block. Tom

Caddy 13, Give me a call at 402-359-5762 or tsvanmeet@gmail.com I have all the parts you are looking for NOS. Also sent you two PMs. Tom

Be sure to stop and see us at C4N 31 for your NOS ignition parts needs for not only Studebaker autos but most other makes from 1910 to 1960 We are directly north of the central bathroom area in the Chocolate field.

Come see us at Hershey space C4N 31 for those NOS ignition parts for you Durant, DeVaux, Flint, Star, Rugby or Frontenac.

Be sure to stop and see us at Hershey in space C4N 31 for those NOS ignition parts for not only Lincolns but other makes and models from 1910 to 1960s. Tom

Come see us at Hershey for those NOS ignition parts for not only Saxon but other makes and models from 1910 to 1960s. C4N 31