old buicks

Need a set of good serviceable top irons for a 26-44 roadster. This was a removeable top roadster in that the top came off and did not fold like other roadsters. I am willing to look at anything that could be adapted to this fine car. Any leads are greatly appreciated. Call 402-359-5762 - Tom

I had a 26 Master cracked cylinder block. Mine was cracked about 1 inch down from the head surface on the right side. Expert crack welder looked at it and said he would not weld it as the torque from the head bolts would open the crack up again in time. I found a good 27 block and am running that now. <P>I have a complete 26 engine and would sell it but only as a complete engine. Engine is loose and appears good. Located in eastern Nebraska.

We can help too. Have an active restoration shop about 30 miles northwest of Omaha, Ne and are currently working on a 26-20 and a 26-44 Buick. Both are total restorations from the ground up. Also working on a 29 Chrysler country club roadster. Did all the wood on the Chrysler and lots on the 26-20 and will have to do all of the wood on the 26-44. Call us at 402-359-5762. Have been doing restorations for the last 12 years.

Had to go back to Oct of 2000 to find a Kwik Poly add. Sold by T-Distributing, Inc 24 St Henry Ct. St Charles, MO 63301 636-724-1065. Comes in Qt kits and 1/2 Gal kits. I'd say get the quart kit. It's actually two pint bottles that you mix together and let harden. Start out with a small quantity for the float. I would not mix over 1/2 teaspoon of each part. Get a small brush to apply the stuff to the float and then hang it after painting the stuff onto the float to dry. You'll know when it starts to harden as it starts to gum up and turn a milky cardboard color. I usually use one application and have it on 09 Overland, 09 Fuller, 16 Buick, 29 Ply, 16 Chalmers and a 29 Chyr. You'll use it to also fill in pits in casting, fill deteriorated wood, and I've even made a mold and used it to pour a replacement radiator cap for the Chalmers. Good luck. Don't get any on your fingers, it does wear off in time though!

What series Continental engine does it have? I have an L-15 complete engine in a Durant that possibly has a good head. A friend of mine has a six cylinder Star and I believe he has an extra head too. His is a 1927. svanmeet@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us

POR15 is a poor choice for this application. I would use Kwik Poly and probably use two applications of the product. You can find a source in Hemmings. We have used KP on at least 10 cork floats and have had good success. It is alcohol resistant and is really good stuff. A source for cork floats would be Bob's Automobilia, the Buick guy in southern Calif. Good luck

Currently looking for 4 nice hub caps and side light lenses for a 26 Buick Standard. Will be at both Wichita and Chickasha for delivery if that works.

Currently looking for 4 nice hub caps and side light lenses for a 26 Buick Standard. Will be a Wichita and Chickasha if that works for delivery.

The model number of your car can be found on a tag on the firewall of the car. It will be a 26-47, 26-49 or a 26-51. 26 denotes the year and the other numbers tell what series and quality level the car is. There are a lot of things to consider with a car like this. Is the engine free, what shape is the car in general, will you have the work done or do it yourself and have you ever undertaken a project like this before? <BR>Also consider how big your bank account is. What you consider a large sum for the project will be eaten up fairly fast whether you do it yourself or have it done. EXPERIENCE TALKING!!!!!!

Sorry the cutout for the muffler is not with the car. Several people have emailed me with the same question. I don't think the bracket is for the oil filter but it sounds like a good fit. It is about that shape for the old filters that had a 1/8 or 1/4 inch fitting on both ends. Brake fluid can is diffently out, I have a 29 Plymouth coupe and know what that thing mounts on. The jury is still out on this one.

Sorry the cutout for the muffler is not with the car. Several people have emailed me with the same question. I don't think the bracket is for the oil filter but it sounds like a good fit. It is about that shape for the old filters that had a 1/8 or 1/4 inch fitting on both ends. Brake fluid can is diffently out, I have a 29 Plymouth coupe and know what that thing mounts on. The jury is still out on this one.

I have most of the mystery items figured out but have a machined piece that is driving us up the wall. It is made out of about1 inch hex with a 5/8 inch hole in the center and is treaded for a portion of its length. It's not the oil pressure rugulator mechanism for the side of the block. Also have a two piece clamp like affair that is bolted together with two 5/16 bolts. It has spans about 5 inches and appears to have been either riveted or attached to something with smaller screws/bolts (8s or 10'S) in one of the flanges. Also has strengthening ribs in the center of the parts.???????

1979 Chev PU 239,000 miles still running STRONG.

Thank you for the reply Paul. Unfortunately, Buick used a different style of cap for every year and also different between Master and Standard. Thank you anyway. <P>Tom

Looking for four good servicable hub caps for a 26 Standard Buick. post me back if you think you may have some that will work and I will describe them. (ID, thread pitch and design) <P>------------------<BR>Tom

I'm currently restoring a Chrysler M-75 for a friend that bought the car several years ago in boxes (a lot of them). Would like to correspond with someone regarding some questions on some small parts, especially the light switch on the end of the steering column and the throttle linkage and brass oil diverters for starters.

Hey Jan Arnett, I'm the guy who used write the repair column for Jeff Gillis in the Durant Standard before he passed away. <BR>Tom VM.

Hey Trainguy, I'm working on a Model 69 Overland. Bought just the rolling chassis and have already made a speedster body, (what there is of it)and have finished the fenders and was starting on the engine. Ordered correct? pistons from Egge last week and hoping for 3 week delivery.

Thanks for all the help guys. I got it out but had to destroy the piston in the process. Evidently, someone before me put in pistons that were about .550 inch too tall. I took a long 1/4 inch drill bit and drilled off the top land on the piston, then was able to pull the piston out of the cylinder. For the buy who wondered why a recess and not a ridge, this is the way the old ones were made. On 99% of the headless cylinders there is about a 1/4 -3/8" recess at the top of the cylinder and you don't want to get your rings stuck there. TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!!!

I did a 29 Ply coupe several years ago. I was fortunate to have some wood to go by. Sorry, I didn't make any drawings or blueprints, didn't think the call for Ply coupe plans would be that great. Did take a few photos but they really don't show too much. I've done several wood body cars and know what your'e going through. Take it easy and go slow. The average wood body takes me about 6 months nights and weekends. I can give you some pointers if you wish.

I did the unthinkable. I am restoring a 12 Overland with headless individual cyliners. I put new rings on the existing pistons and put the first cylinder on and upon rolling the engine over, the top ring expanded into the recess at the top of the cylinder. Only access is through the valve ports 1 3/4 inches in diameter. Anyone been there and done that? How do I get this thing back apart now???????????

If you have a 16 Chalmers, your doors will have a trim bead running the length of the door which overhangs the door skin itself by about 1/2 inch. Also the tops of the windshield posts will have a slot cut into them from the rear were the top attaches. If you e-mail me a photo what you have I can identify it if it's Chalmers. svanmeet@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us