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Don McClair

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Everything posted by Don McClair

  1. I don't understand what went wrong with your order but a couple of years ago I ordered the rear center arm rest cover from Clark's, part number R179 for my 65 Riv and it was a perfect fit. The rear center arm rest was an option that I added to my car. I had previously ordered the drivers side seat back cover for the custom interior in dark green and it was almost a perfect match. If you don't know the seat back cover was replaced you would never notice the difference.
  2. For removing the outer door skin check out Removable outside door panels on first-gen Rivs question on this forum. There is almost everything you need to know there.
  3. I agree with Don in that they are fairly easy to remove. If any of the "T" bolts want to spin use a plastic putty knife between the nut and the inner door shell to apply pressure to the "T" bolt. If you break any of them replacements are available thru CARS and possibly Restoration Specialties. Also, I would start with the piece of exterior trim under the vent window. Once you remove the screw on the leading edge, hold a paint stick on the back edge of it and tap the paint stick with a small hammer and the trim piece should slide forward. There are two screws under it that secure the top edge of the door skin that have to be removed. There is also one screw at the top rear edge of the door shell that does the same job. You can see it with the door open. The long piece of the trim on the top of the door does not need to be removed. Once all of the bolts and screws are removed just lift out from the bottom and then up you now have the door skin off. I would start with the passenger door. The drivers door is slightly more complicated only because of the remote mirror adjustment lever that needs to be removed from the door panel. If all goes well you can probably have the second door skin off in about 15 minutes. Installing the door skin is almost as easy but I would suggest that you secure the door skin with a few bolts and then verify that the door handle works properly.
  4. My wheels were in pretty good shape but someone had posted some before and after pictures of what Rally America had done. The before pictures were pretty ugly. One other thing a lot of chrome shops will not touch wheels. Rally America also checks them to be straight and true before they do anything.
  5. I too had my wheels done by Rally America and was very pleased. Turn around time was about 6 or 7 weeks. They said they do not paint web area gray (for 1965 models) because everyone fusses that it is the wrong color and I requested them to leave them blank that I would them myself. Very pleased with the quality of the job that was done.
  6. Ok, no jokes, puns or wisecracks. Seriously, I like to use Lexol leather cleaner on my seats. It does a really good job of cleaning the vinyl and it really does feel a bit softer. Once I sprayed a bit of touch up paint in the trunk not thinking about how paint can find a way through the smallest area. I later discovered it had made its way into the passenger compartment of my Wildcat. Original parchment interior with a little red over spray is not good but the Lexol took all of the over spray off. I was a very happy camper.
  7. Thanks for the info. I will check him out!
  8. I am in need of clutches and bearings to rebuild the posi rear for my 1965 Riv. Does anyone know of a good source for these parts? The ring and pinion are in excellent shape. Thanks,
  9. Clark's is a little more expensive than CARS but in the listing for CARS it says that it might need to be trimmed to fit. I bought from Clark's and was very pleased with the fit and finish and no trimming was needed. I have bought a couple of items from OPG and had to return them because of quality I seriously doubt that I will buy from them again.
  10. If you go on Hagerty's website www.hagerty.com you can click on Valuation and under car values, click on Value Your Car. Fill in the info on your car and it will bring up a graph of the value. I am not saying this is correct but it will give you an idea the potential value of your car. I used this as a guide when I increased the value of my car with them.
  11. Fox News posted on their website an article by Hagerty and featuring a picture of a 1982 Riviera convertible as one of the five. Interesting read. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/01/05/five-forgotten-80s-classics/?intcmp=features
  12. The rubber flap actually snaps into the sheet metal (some people call it a stone shield) that fits between the bumper and the grille. And, it is held in place by two clips that are very similar to the clips that hold the dust shields around the upper "a" arms of the front suspension. I am not saying that Clark's doesn't have it but I have not seen it on their website. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.
  13. As Randy said "good I Tom." The wheel in the upper left does have the centering ring in the back and I was not aware of the differences in the early years of this wheel. I had bought some of these over the net and picked the best ones to have replated. I have one other wheel that has the larger valve stem and since they look a little different, they have become the spares in both my Riv and my 66 Wildcat. The Wildcat was missing one of the chrome wheels when I bought it in 1987. The bottom line in my reply is that how great this forum is in learning the differences in the years and what is correct and what isn't.
  14. Yes, Rally America is located in California and their website is www.rallyamerica.com It is best to call them before you send any wheels to them and then they will call you when it arrives and get a 25% deposit.
  15. The total cost for the 5 wheels was just under $1300 and that included shipping back to me but not shipping to them. They said they would cut the price a little because they were not going to paint them but again I am very pleased with how they look.
  16. Christmas Eve, UPS delivered the five wheels for my 65 Riv that were redone by Rally America and I am very pleased with their work. In talking with them they said they would not paint the centers gray because people always complained that it was the wrong shade of gray. I told them not to worry because I would do it. I painted the back side of the wheels with chrome paint (just extra shiny silver) and wiped the front side down with a grease and wax remover before masking off the chrome areas. I used 1/8th in pin striping tape to make a clean edge along the chrome and then followed up with masking tape and paper to complete covering up the chrome. I sprayed a light coat of self etching primer and then used Duplicolor DE1651 cast iron engine enamel. The color may be a little bit darker than factory but is lighter than it appears in the picture. I am looking forward to getting the new tires installed next week. I hope everyone had a great Christmas and have a Happy New Year!
  17. Clockwise is what I remember doing on my engine. As Ed said once the pump starts pumping oil you will know real quick because the drill really has to work at turning that shaft.
  18. Those wheels look good but appear to be the 1971 and up version with the different offset.
  19. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> I took the lines and the block that fits in the hole in the firewall completely out. I pulled one line at a time out of that block and cut a length of new vacuum line to match it but added about 5 inches extra. I bought different colors of model paint at a hobby shop and using the corresponding color to the line that I removed, painted a small stripe on both ends of the new line. Once the paint was dry I pulled the new line through that block. My Riv also has the vacuum trunk release and I used most of the two forty rolls that I had purchased at the auto parts store. Since I bought so much vacuum line, they lowered the price per foot. Technically these line are not correct but they work very well. One other suggestion to anyone who has the HVAC controls and console out of your car, install your lines on the back of the controls and then install the console. Then just lift the controls up and attach to the console. 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  20. Saw a 1965 Riviera GS on ebay with a buy it now price of $22,500. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Riviera-Gran-Sport-1965-buick-riviera-gran-sport-7-0-l-/301023662189?forcerrptr=true&hash=item461668906d&item=301023662189&pt=US_Cars_Trucks First glance the car looks nice but it has a lot of rust issues in the bottom of the front fenders and rear quarters. The scariest part is the pictures of the bottom side with the car on a two post lift and it is being picked up by the floor pans. One of the lift points is pushing on the fuel lines to pick the car up.
  21. Just a little advice that I am sure you are already aware of. With a 24 foot trailer make sure the tow vehicle is big enough to handle the job. A guy I know was towing an enclosed trailer with a 1966 Nova in it fully restored. The tow vehicle was a 1500 series Chevy short bed. They got hit by a cross wind that blew the truck and trailer into the median but the dip in the median caused truck and trailer to be totaled. Luckily he and his son were OK. Technically the Nova was was also totaled but many months later it was in once piece but in an enclosed trailer being pulled by a one ton truck with dual rear wheels.
  22. It is definitely the real deal. I have one of each and the one for the finned aluminum valve covers has that extra hump on the bottom side so to speak. Also, dual quad or single quad does not make a difference. IMHO
  23. Not mine but there is the correct rear compressor bracket on eBay that will work with the finned aluminum covers. Seems to be high but here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BUICK-NAILHEAD-GS-425-401-DUAL-QUAD-REAR-AC-BRACKET-FOR-FINNED-VALVE-COVERS-/301006833088
  24. Mikael, I have bought two sets of the reproduction valve covers and was pleased with the first set from TA Performance. The second set from Original Parts Group was a sorry attempt at making this item. Fortunately the set from OPGI also had a crack in one, so I was able to return them without any problems. Their website said that they were painted for uniformity in color. This paint job was a feeble attempt to cover up flaws. The aluminum valve covers from CARS look good in the picture and the price is very good and Clark's Corvair parts also offers them but at a higher cost of $340.00. Calvin Clark has always tried to offer a superior product but for that sort of money you should be able to locate an original set. I bought a set from Wheatbelt Buick but the link on the ROA website is not working for some reason. You could also try Larry Daisey at Rancho Riviera for an original set. Remember that the 1966 Valve Covers have a dent on the inside of the drivers side front that I believe was for the California pollution pump. The 1965 models did not have this. You are right that the aluminum valve covers brighten up the whole engine compartment. Good luck
  25. Ed, they had the part on page 40 of their catalog but, shame on me for not checking it out before I posted that part number. You are right, it was on paper but not in cyber space. I am going to guess that when Clark's stopped advertising it that CARS did the same. A real shame because there are a lot of people who need that part. If someone needs this bracket you might want to check with Larry Daisey http://www.ranchoriviera.8m.com/
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