Chris Paulsen

It is definitely a Cadillac. I agree, it is pre-1912. I think it is a 1911.

I've been told by more than one Chief Judge that once an award is given, it cannot be taken back, but the vehicle can be "prohibited" from receiving other awards in the future. I see that "Repeat Original HPOF" is an exception.

These are still for sale and I'll have them at Hershey RSE 29-30.

Neat photo. It is a speedster based on a Model T Ford chassis. Probably circa 1917-22. The wheels are fantastic accessories.

Gil, we'll be seeing a lot of each other, I think. I'll be there, too. Attending the HCCA meeting on Tuesday, hanging around the HCCA tent and helping with the barbecue on Friday. My father will have his 1910 Ford and I will have our 1911 Paige-Detroit both on the field Saturday. Both will be 'do not judge' cars. He's staying for the Hershey Hangover tour. Feel free to stop by and say hello.

Here is the car I'd like to put it on.

Hi all, I am looking for a radiator emblem like the one pictured for our 1911. It is round, 2" in diameter and all brass; either stamped or etched. Anyone have one?

Hi all, Does anyone have one of these? It is 2" in diameter and all brass. I need one for our 1911. Thanks, Chris

Hupp36- Thank you very much for the information. Chris

It is a Model T Ford key used in every Ford produced from late 1913 until 1918 when the ignition switches were on the front of the coil boxes. The round 'post' indicates it is an original. It is not Maxwell. I hope this helps, Chris

Thank you for the input. Why was the change made? The old process was in place for 25 years and (from the outside) seemed to work well. I agree there are some great freshly unrestored cars out there. Hopefully, the judges will be able to recognize them. Although, there have been some cars certified that were simply older restorations and had no factory original fabrics left. Perhaps this new process is a way to catch some of these cars so they don't slip through.

Hi all- Can anyone explain the difference between HPOF certification and HPOF "Original"? I know the "Original" award comes after receiving the first HPOF, but what would make a car eligible for the first HPOF but not the second "Original"? I've read the judging guidelines and would like some clarification, if possible. Thanks, Chris

I think keiser is correct on #1 and 3, but I think #2 is a 1903 or 1904 Winton. #5 is an Overland, circa 1910-11.

Hi Fred, Yes, they are still for sale. Chris

Hi all, Can anyone tell me what years and models these hubcaps fit? The one on the left is steel, the one on the right is brass. Both fit a 3" hub and have 16 tpi. Thanks, Chris

Povertycove- PM sent. DCE-I would be interested, but I am afraid the shipping across the border might make it prohibitive. Thanks, Chris

Hi all- I just thought I'd bring this back to the top. I am still looking for tires. Thanks, Chris

I drove up Pike's Peak last July with this group. The Peerless belongs to a collector in Colorado. PM me and I'd be glad to give you his name. I'm not sure he'd want it posted here. It was a great trip. We were on the HCCA National Tour based in Colorado Springs for a week. It was a tour of about 100 cars, but only about 10 attempted Pike's Peak. All made it up and down with no trouble. Here we are on top with our 1910 Ford (green) and friends with their 1912 (gray).

Great photo. It looks like a Garford, circa 1912 to me.

Sorry, I should have posted the price up front rather than having you follow the link. The classes are $650 per person per week. Room and board is extra. We try to make it a fun-filled educational experience. We have different activities lined up each night including visiting local car collections, talks on different automotive collectibles, Model T & A Ford driving experiences, movies, etc; all included in the price.

Once again this year, McPherson College is offering Summer Institute Classes to the public. There are two one-week sessions available. The dates are: June 10-14 and June 17-21. First week classes are: Automotive Electrical Systems (troubleshooting, tune-ups, 12V conversions, more) Automotive Paint (theory and practice of modern paint systems) The Finishing Touches (Wood graining, pin striping, brass, stainless, and aluminum repair and polishing) Upholstery and Trim, Chassis Restoration (basic operation of steering, suspension, brake systems, and frames. Includes hands-on tear down and assembly of components on a typical American vehicle) Carburation, Ignition and Tune-up: Learn how to get your vintage car running its best, no matter whether you drive it every week or it has been stored for years.Chassis Restoration: Learn about the basic operation of steering, suspension, brake systems, and frames. Includes hands-on tear down and assembly of components on a typical American vehicle. Sheetmetal Restoration: FULL Second week classes are: Automotive Paint (theory and practice of modern automotive Paint systems) Engine Babbitting(covers different types of Babbitt and the equipment needed to restore bearings in early engines. We will pour and bore several during the week. Please contact us about bringing your own engine!) Manual Transmissions and Drive train (rebuilding manual transmissions and axles) Engine Overhaul (Learn engine rebuilding with the guidance of our expert restoration faculty-Project engines are supplied by the College). Sheetmetal Restoration: FULL Additional Offering, June 24 - 27: Sheet Metal Shaping and Fabrication: (This class is for the serious hobbyist who has already taken the basic sheet metal class from Ed Barr) – Will build on the application of techniques and principles learned in the basic class and will focus on: Metal shaping, Copying shapes, A greater emphasis on TIG welding, Welding together multi-piece panels (without warping), Building bucks, Adding details to panels (beads, louvers, etc.) Please phone Garrick Green @ 1-620-242-0568 or click on: MC Technology | Institute for more info. Thanks for looking. Chris Paulsen<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_end -->

My first recomendation would be to check the ignition timing. Running with the spark retarded will heat it up very quickly. Do you replace the piston and rings? Replacing the rings will create enough friction to cause overheating until they beak in. The type of coolant shouldn't make that big of a difference.

It is a 1911 Liberty. Asking $16,000.

It sounds like we will have our Brush for sale at the meet. We'll have it at our spaces in the North building. Feel free to stop by. Here it is:

I am looking for 33x4 straight-side tires for a 25" rim. I prefer good used. Will take 1, 2, 3 or 4. Prefer set of 4. I can pick them up at Chickasha.