The Old Guy

Even if you don't care for modified cars, you still have to appreciate the workmanship in this ride!!!! That is ONE COOOOL WOODIE

Ihave dealt with both Kepich an Waldron, and waldron is not anyone I would deal with again. Kepich sent me everything needed ,but it took some reworking to fit. <BR> I usually end up going to a muffler shop where they bend and fit it. I have been very pleased with the results. <P>------------------<BR>

Run a jumper wire from a hot lead to your stop light switch. If that gets you stop lights, then you know your problem is from the fuse block to the switch. If you don't get lights, then the wire to the rear is bad.

You may be able to find a good 364 or 401 to replace yourengine . You can use any 364 or 401 up to 64 . the 64 401 had a change to the crank ,so it won't be compatible with your Dynaflow

I have driven my 40 Buick over 90 thousand miles and just this year drove it from Flint MI to Minneapolis and had no trouble . Old cars can be driven anywhere a new one can . You just have to take a little more time.

This car runs well .It has power windows and steering,tinted glass and is drivable. The body is quite rusty and it is a 4 dr so that is why I am selling it for $500.00 OBO<BR> buickjoet@aol.com

The tool I am refering to is a piece of wire mesh tubing that expands when pushed together and contracts when pulled. You put in the seal ,and pull it through the upper seal area. There is also another method that is simple if your upper seal is still good ,but just worn. You can drive a piece or two of stiff wire between the seal and the block which effectively tightens the seal on the crank . then you can either replace the bottom seal or put some heavy cord between the bottom seal and the cap and you are good for many more miles.

The starter will function with either charging unit. I have put alternators on numerous Buicks and had no problems.

it may be that you can buy a complete rear end cheaper than the bearings. They are usually available for $100 or less.

If the rear main is leaking, you can buy a tool ,very much like the old chinese finger trap , that will install the upper seal without rmoving anything but the pan and rear main cap.

Where are you located? When you say complete bumpers ,does that mean you have the end bullets too?<BR> Please let me Know<BR> buickjoet@aol.com<BR>

Where are you located? Are the bumpers complete with the end bullets? <BR> Please let me know<BR> buickjoet@aol.com

Where are you located? When you say complete bumpers ,does that mean you have the end bullets too?<BR> Please let me Know<BR> buickjoet@aol.com<BR>

I have been in this organization since the Bugle was a two page sheet ,not as big as most of our news letters are now .I believe some of us have forgotten the main reason we are in the BCA. This club was formed for the preservation and enjoyment of Buicks, and as it has gotten larger it has experienced the growing pains of every other club. The board is working for us to give us the best product for our dues that they can ,and I believe the Bugle change was necessary because after twenty some years we needed someone with new ideas.This club is large enough that needs to be run like a businessand that means that personal feelings have no place in the decision making process.If we give the board a chance ,I'm sure we will be a better club as they are trying to get our finances in line,and this is of prime importance.

The Buick club of America has a judges handbook that probably has the information you need.You might try their DF

I have one in my GS and I used the TCI lock up kit for the convertor and the linkage and kick down bracket from a carbureted Riv and it works great . I have run mine with Goodrich drag radials (26X10) and haven't broken it yet.

The tube unbolts from the carrier ,but there is a seal up front by the u- joint .

The 322 is almost the same size as the 364 & 401 , but the 322 has a different size bell housing . If you want the larger engine, you will need the later transmission, or at least the front section.

I forgot to mention that the drive shaft and torque tube may have to be changed, but they are direct replacements for one another.You must be sure when you replace them that you make sure that they run true ,or you willl pick up a vibration. You may get lucky and find a unit the same length, but I didn't have that kind of luck.

The complete center section from 40 to 55 was interchangable. I have a 3.42 from a55 century in my 40 super convert and at 52MPH indicated ,I am running 68MPH actual. it makes a highway cruiser from a back road baby.The only problem is brakes ,and you can put the big(2/14) system on ,backing plates and all ,and cure that problem! Even the side gears are the same ,so your axles slip right in .<BR> Happy cruisin'<BR> Joe Taubitz

The straight eight mounts are not compatible with the V-8 . The str.-8 sits on big pads that are quite high, so you will have to build mounts for either one. If you go with a 455 you will have to change rear ends ,but if you stay with the 322 you can hook up to the torque tube and save lots of work . The differential from a 53-55 V8 will fit in the 50 carrier and give you a better road gear, as the 50 probably has a 3.9-4.1 ratio and the V8 cars have 3.4 -3.6

I am sure that if a chapter in the pacific northwest were to offer to put on a national ,the board would listen. I would love an excuse to drive an old car out there again. Meets just don't happen! It takes someone to spearhead the move.The ball is in your court!!!!!!!!

The AC-44S is an extended tip plug with the same heat range as the AC-44 . the only problem you will encounter with the extended tip is that occasionally the piston will close the gap . The AC-R44 is an acceptable substitute for the AC-44

i'm sorry ,I should have put the location in my original post. The car is located just west of Flint Michigan .

Thank you for the update. where is the agenda posted? <BR> Joe taubitz