The Old Guy

After reading all the posts on this subject, I went out and pulled the tank on my 57 Buick . I put a ground strap directly to the sender and the guage works ,but only half way. When you put the sending unit back in the hole, be sure the lever is free. I think mine is rubbing on a baffle ,as it only goes half way up. At least it tells me when I am runnin low ,so that is a big help. The next time I get ambitious ,I'll pull the tank and fix it right.

All the rubber parts should be available through Steele RubberProducts.<BR> Their Phone is : 800-544-8665

if I am reading this properly , The top piece you are referring to has the thermostat housing ,and a part that goes out to each head. This piece is attached to the timing cover with a rubber O ring ,and will pull out of the cover. You can't re-use the O ring so you will have to find a new one

C'mon Martinsr , the nail head was a great engine, but technology has made it obsolete. I have run nail heads for years ,and some of the new stuff blows them away. I will admit that there is nothing prettier than a dressed 425 ,but HP wise they can't run with the new engines.

I had a gent ask me the other day which GM engines were the best in the last ten years , and I am stumped. I have some chouces, but I need help. <P> My choices so far are:<P>1 Gen 2 3800 V6<BR>2 Northstar <BR>3 New Vortec inline 6<BR>4 ZZ4 V8<BR>5 Vortec 6000<P> HELP !!!!!!!!<BR>

I have a pair of NOS fenders. $600 for the pair. I am located by Flint Mich. <BR> buickjoet@aol.com

Kanter gets $150 apiece for rebuilt ball joints ,and if you find NOS they are $200 a pop .The 57 has a shaky front end at best. The brakes are border line and they don't steer that well. Before anyone gets mad at me for these statements ,let me say that I drove a 57 Caballero all over the country hauling a 54 Airstream , and they are a little scary to drive .

I have had decent success on die cast parts by drilling out the pits ,having the part copper plated ,and then soldering up the holes. You then get it re-coppered and you should be good to go. it takes more trips to the plater ,but you end up with good parts

It is interesting to me that there is so much arguing about who built what in GM ,but ford and Chrysler who have had nothing but Corporate engines for years are not even mentioned . GM at one time had 350 CI engines built by Chev,Buick ,Pontiac,Olds and Cadillac .The powers that be finally realized what a waste that was , and they have been on everyones s**t list ever since. I watched GM close engine plants to streamline their product line , and kill some great engines, but in todays world you are either competitive or DEAD !!

I am sorry ! I read the post and thought it said 40 Buick ,not 40s .The 40 has a nut ,and the later ones have the splined nut. I am glad you got it apart .

I am refering to the nut that holds the wiper on. All 40s to my knowledge had the wiper arm held on by a chrome nut. I used washers and a regular nut to pull the shaft from the gear

The dipstick and filler tube is located right by the starter on the right side of the engine compartment

I found that stacking washers on the shaft ,and tightening the nut on the washers , pulled the shaft from the upper sprocket very nicely. Then the whole mechanism falls out. You can then file and polish the die-cast ,and after plating, press the shaft CAREFULLY back into the sprocket

The 322 has a different bell housing. You may be able to swap the 401 and trans as a unit, but it depend on what year and series the 401 is

Where are you located, and how much are you asking????/

The only problem is the loss of the light. The brakes are not affected. I carry an extra hydraulic switch ,and when they cease to work ,I screw in the new switch

The 41 and 42 buicks had dual carbs standard on the super ,century and roadmaster. They were optional on the special, so they are still out there. The exhaust manifolds were like cast iron headers, but they originally went to a Y pipe, but you can have pipes made. Ihave the dual exhausts on my 40 and with stock mufflers, it has a great sound and better performance.The super and special manifolds will fit your 248 perfectly.

Your 430 should run very nicely on 93 octane premium. You may find that for normal driving , you can get by with a mixture of mid grade and premium . Listen for detonation ,and as long as you don't hear any serious knocks,you are in good shape

I am sorry ,but I have neither number

Martinsr, if you did not have the passion to defend what you believe, you would not have helped so many people on this forum !!!! Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your expertise with us. <P>------------------<BR>

There is an older restoration of a model 97 that a friend of mine has discussed selling. It is a side mounted car that has been very well maintained. His name is <BR> Robert Hamilton <BR> 36235 Moravian Dr.<BR> Clinton Twsp. MI 48035-1150<P>P

You can put 70 heads on a 72 block ,but you can't put 72 heads on a 70 block

If you have a hydraulic stop light switch, you may want to think twice about silicone fluid. It does not lubricate as well as regular fluid consequently the switches cease to function after about 1-2 years

If you use the late block ,and all the parts from the 70 engine,you will have for all intents and purposes ,a 70 engine . The only thing I would use from the 74 would be the front cover , the oil pick up tube ( which is larger diameter) and the block. If you use the heads ,intake , crank ,rod and piston assy ,and distributor , noone will know. The 74 should have HEI , but the distributor has a better advance curve ,so you may want to stay with it rather than use the HEI.

TA Performance in Scottsdale AZ is reproducing them . They are a high quality part and should fix you right up.