The Old Guy

If you haven't purchased the trans yet, you might want to look at a 200-4R overdrive . Then you can put in a 3.73 or 3.90 rear axle and really bring it alive. This way you also get a lock up convertor

They are either 60 or 90. they are two different lengthes

Sean,check with Roberta! She had two or three of them

The dash pad from the 62 Invicta is vey nice ,but it is black. If that will fit your Le Sabre it can be had for $40 . I also hae the air cleaner from the Invicta which I believe is the same as the 63 Electra. If<BR>Pat is interested it can be had for $20 . These prices are both plus shipping ,but I don't know how I would ship the pad as they are fragile

It may be that you have the initial timing set too far advanced. Check the timing with a good light

The simplest way to determine if the coil is good is to pull the coil wire from the distributor cap, hold it close to a good ground ,and see if you get any fire. If it doesn't fire ,take the cap off and break the points manually . If that does'nt produce a spark, check to see if you have voltage to the plus side of the coil.If you have voltage to the coil,and still don't have spark disconnect the condenser,as it could possibly be shorted. if after all this you still don't get a spark, the coil is bad.

This is why the Buick Driving Enthusiasts was started! The cost of something as simple as a head light makes it easier to choose. When I joined this organization ,if your lights worked well enough to drive the car to the meet,it was excepted without question, as it was a given that you drove to the meet. <BR>

When you price a new cover ,you will realize why the cover was missing in the first place.

Convertors with any kind of stall create heat and will effectively shorten the life of your trans. Buicks have enough torquethat the higher stall is not necessary unless as in the previous post ,you have a BIG cam

Scott, I will check my stash . I also think I have a good dash, but it is black

I forgot one important item! Do not forget to check the antifreeze

I fill the tank, change the oil and filter, grease the chassis and spray the under side from front to back with WD-40 I then wash and wax the exterior,clean the interior and put it in the barn. I then pull the air cleaner ,pour oil down the carb until it smokes like mad and shut it off until spring. two or three times during the winter I put a charger on the battery just for insurance. This works for me and I am sure you will find many different mwthods which are as good or better,but I have never had a car fail me on the road and I drive them a lot!

I have owned my 1940 Super convert since 1972,and it showed 21,000 on the odometer when I got it. I don't know whether it had been around once or twice,but it definitely was over 100k. The odometer now shows 19,000 so it has either 219.000 or 319,000 .<BR>My wife's 91 Park Ave. has 104,000 and it still runs like new. The lowest mileage Buick I have is a 63 Electra 225 with 25,000. It had 17,000 when I got it in 2000

It is my understanding that the Ad building will be put to use for something,but the other buildings are being torn down. there is a very good possibility that bricks from the old buildings will be available in the near future. The Buicktown Chapter of the BCA is working with the Sloan Museum to work out the details.

If it is an OHV head ,it has to be Buick as both Pontiac and Olds straight eights were valve in block or flat head engines.

When you get old ,it is easy to forget. You are right !! It is in the exhaust passage

The plug you are refering to is under the manifold. the hole it plugs was probably used to clear away the core sand when the manifold was cast. If it goes bad ,you will have a HUGE vacuum leak and the car won't idle or perform well

I would check ALL the cable connections before I invested in a new battery. You may find a corroded connector is causing you trouble

I just purchased a Corvair that had been parked for 15 years. It had 1/2 tank of gas ,so I filled it up and it REALLY smelled bad ,but it ran well enough that I burned it out. The second tank is almost gone ,and the car is running fine

With the exception of a couple of protective plates under the vehicle,and some boxes bolted to the floor ,the SUV you are maligning was stock!The Vehicle was shown at the BCA Nationals and The engine sounded stock,but they could have done some work on the PROM to make a little more power.The engine is not a power house,but with the gearing available, I don't see why it should not have functioned as it did,which means doing it's job.

The only thing you could do to hurt the generator is tighten the belt too tight. If done properly ,a generator should run almost indefinitely. I have replaced the one on my 40 Buick once in 30 years. I have put new brushes in twice , but I have driven the poor thing 90,000 plus miles.i think I would find someone else to repair it if I were you

The standard engine in a 1952 Super was a 263cubic inch with hydraulic lifters

Most of the after market dual carb manifolds for the straight 8 used three bolt carbs like the Stromberg 97and they were no bigger than the carbs used on the 41 set up. I put Strombergs on a 41 manifold back in 1950 . I had a 37 with the 41 set up ,and it ran faster with the stock carbs.

If you are interested,I have a dual carb set up from a 41 Super that is for sale. It has been sitting for a long time,so the carbs will need rebuilding, but it can be had for $300 plus shipping. I live in the Flint MI area.

I have a 57 on a 72 Electra chassis and I like it VERYMUCH The later chassis gives you better brakes,steering and handling,and you can get parts at NAPA. Finding vintage speed equipment for the straight 8s is getting harder and harde.