ply33

The thread on "NOS Champion spark plugs" got me wondering. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/nos-champion-spark-plugs-what-do-186596.html In an era long, long ago there was a distinction between NOS and NORS. If I recall correctly, NOS (new old stock) was stock from the original manufacturer of the vehicle with a possible extension to stock from a supplier to the original manufacturer. NORS (new old replacement stock) was old stock from after market providers made in the general era of the vehicle. I would think that those "NOS Champion spark plugs" should really be "NORS Champion spark plugs" for most applications. But I haven't see NORS used in years. Is that a dead term? When did it stop being used? Am I remembering all this wrong (that has been happening with more regularity than I'd like recently).

About 20 years ago the Ski Sunrise ski area north of Los Angeles was still using a flathead Ford V8 engine to run a rope tow. Don't know the current status, I've heard the area was sold a while back. The Dodge Ridge ski area has a beginner area with a rope tow that, at least through last year, has Model A wheels for idler pulleys. I haven't looked to see what they use for powering the setup.

I think that is the crux of the problem for lots of car shows, not just ones trying to get brass era cars to come out. I will pay to enter my car in a show if I know that the money is going to a charity I approve of. But otherwise entry fees for cars is a turn off for me, especially if the general public can get in for free. The local Model T club hosts a very nice event at a local history park each year. No entry fee for vehicles but they must be 1945 or earlier. There is a great turn out of Model Ts (of course) but there are usually a dozen or more other brass era cars. This year they had a steamer theme and had two Stanleys, a Locomobile, a White and a Doble. All were fired up and driven around the show so people could see them in motion. So getting older vehicles to events can still be done. And they are out there, I saw a Model T touring drive by as I was waiting to make a left turn into the grocery store parking lot this morning.

Yep. If you've switched to 12v then you need an ballast resistor or you need to switch to a "12v coil" that has a ballast built into it... I did not mention that above because I am stuck in the "as built by the factory" mindset.

DeSoto Frank is right on the money. I've got about 20,000 on my current set of points. As per other posts on this thread, suspect you have condenser problems. Use a modern condenser. And when you are doing a tune up if the old points aren't pitted, just worn down, then keep the old condenser as it is working just fine. It might be polarity too. All the 6v MoPars were positive ground and the coil, etc. are built using that assumption so your spark will be hottest if the polarity is correct.

The horror stories I've heard about DOT5 (silicone) versus other types of brake fluid have been when they are mixed, so I'd really try to figure out what is in that "new" old car. Out of the container the DOT5 fluids I have are purple. I don't know if that changes over time in the brake system or not. But I think a sure fire way to tell what is in the system would be to take a little fluid from the master cylinder and put it on a painted surface: DOT5 will not damage paint while DOT3 will. In addition to being good for use in vehicles that are stored for long periods of time, the fact that DOT5 won't damage paint was one of my considerations when I used it in my old car.

I don't know about silicone used in rubber applications but it is my understanding that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids are hydroscopic (can absorb water from the atmosphere) but DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid does not.

Controversy brews over increased ethanol fuels for older cars | The Car Tech blog - CNET Reviews

Until I looked at Google maps just now I did not know where Phoenix, OR was. Practically on the California border and Yreka is pretty far north in California... I can believe that the car, in good mechanical condition, could do 70 and that it would run nicely at 55 since that describes my 33 Plymouth's performance. But I wonder if he can do that on the grade from your town toward Mt. Ashland. All I could do on that section of I-5 on my return trip from the Plymouth Club's meet in Portland last summer was a bit under 50.

Looks like a nice solid car. California YOM tags in Oregon? I assume then that the car was recently purchased and/or the owner just moved to your area.

You might want to look at 7. What parameters determine octane requirement? Go down a little to a table that gives compression ratios versus octane requirements. Looks like you will want something between 96 and 100 octane. And, at least where I live, that is not available at the local filling stations.

Per Rusty_OToole's post, the engine number will be the best bet for identifying your engine. I've marked this photo to show were to look for it.

I spoke with the owner of the Doble that was at the Santa Clara Valley Model T Ford Club organized "Antique Autos at San Jose History Park" last Sunday. He claims to have 5 Dobles and that 10 are known to exist. The car he had there had very nice lines and it was impressive to see it steam up in 20 seconds and drive off after the the 20 minute demonstration of steaming up a Stanley.

Was the 38 Olds positive or negative ground? The VWs were negative ground and I suspect installing a solid state radio designed for negative ground systems would need total chassis isolation if installed in a positive ground car.

Yesterday I saw a 1937 Chrysler Airflow with a wicker picnic basket on the rear floor. In that basket was a battery operated iPod speaker system and an iPod playing vintage music. Not actually a permanent solution, but you might get your music that way until you find the appropriate radio for your car.

Another possibility for steering and suspension parts is Rare Parts out of Stockton, Calif. Steering & Suspension, All American Cars, Import Cars, Off Road and Trucks | RareParts.com They may not be the cheapest but if they don't have it they will make it. And if they have to make it for you from a sample they will add that part to their inventory so the next person who needs one can get it. For example, they actually make the steering drag link for 1933 Dodge and Plymouth.

I suspect that your state will more upset about using fuel that doesn't have a road tax collected on it than the feds will be about the lead.

By the way, the nuts that hold the manifolds onto the block are supposed to be brass. And there are special tapered washers for the exhaust studs that allow the manifold to move slightly as it heats up and cools down. You can get them from Vintage Power Wagons. If the original brass nuts are on there then removal of the manifold assembly should not be too hard. If some previous owner used steel nuts or replace them with steel bolts.... Well there are words for that. The tough ones, at least for me, are the four bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together. If you don't have to open things up to repair the heat riser then just leave them be. If you do break that joint open, then when you are putting things back together you want to have those four bolts loose until the manifolds are firmly bolted to the block so that they line up straight and flat on the block. Then tighten those four bolts that attach the exhaust manifold to the intake.

The manifold gasket set is the same for all Plymouth and US built Dodge cars with 6 cylinder engines from 1933-59 (and industrial applications to about 1972). Canadian Dodges and the larger Dodge trucks have a 25 inch long block that is closer to the DeSoto and Chrysler engine. Anyway, the hidden fastener is on the bottom in the center of the manifold assembly. Do follow Bamfords Garage's advise and visit the P15-D24 web site and discussion forum. While most of the people on there have 46-48 Plymouths and Dodges there are a fair number with vehicles outside that year range too.

Incandescent bulbs can, to a certain extent, be self-limiting. A higher voltage leads them to run hotter which increases the resistance of the filament which cuts down the current flow. An LED, as I understand it, does not work that way. The high output LEDs I've see specifications on run on about 3 volts so even in a 6v electrical system they need some sort of voltage reduction setup. If all they have internally are some inline resistors they may be more sensitive to over voltage conditions than a incandescent bulb. But that would depend on the internal construction of the specific bulb...

Have you checked with the publisher? Skinned Knuckles "volume" year is from either August through July or September through August. I'd have to pull a copy off the shelf that is 200 miles away to be sure which. And, traditionally, they have published an index to the year's articles in the last issue of their volume. So look in a July or August issue to see what articles were published in the last year. For articles published more than a year ago, you are probably best off is you can get the end of volume edition for each year and go from there. I have heard of an effort to index all of their issues but don't know of the current status for that.

Or a clogged vent hole in the gas cap...

What Tinindian said. Here is my list of obsolete filter numbers that you can look for at swap meets or on ePay: Plymouth Replacement Parts You have several options: Look for them on ePay, etc. The are still pretty available. Buy a new one from a specialty supplier. I think Roberts still lists them. Because of my web site I get some odd ball emails at times. One was from a company in India that claims to manufacture this filter. Maybe Roberts and others get them from a company like that. Get a period filter assembly that uses replaceable elements. There are several different ones out there, all pretty available. And most of them use elements you can buy at your local auto supply. There are a few types listed in the Plymouths parts book and there are more that were made by companies like Fram. There is a fellow advertising in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine a unit that looks like the sealed filter but it apparently opens up and a modern filter can be installed inside. By the way, you don't need to replace the bypass filter at every oil change: If it clogs up nothing immediately serious happens. The oil just gets dirtier. This is different than a full flow filter where clogging is too serious to let happen. (Either the built in check valve fails and you get no oil to the engine or the valve works and a lot of accumulated gunk goes into your engine. Since you don't want either of those things to happen and you don't know the state of the filter you should replace it at every oil change.) My solution was to figure out how many more decades I think I will drive the vehicle, figure out how many miles that works out to with my average yearly mileage, then stock up enough filters to last.

I got mine maybe 8 or 10 years ago from Page Title It was a bit of a hassle as he was not setup for international commerce at the time. I have heard that since then the situation changed and you needed to go through a US distributor. I paid about $6/bulb at the time and I understand they are closer to $20 now, mostly I think, due to distributor markup.

State in question is New Jersey, whose laws I know nothing about. However in the few states I've lived in I don't recall a requirement by the state that your insurance has to have the same restrictions as the licensing. Generally it does make sense to make them the same, but I can imagine circumstances where you might want to have them different. For example, in California the YOM plates are basically just plain old vanity plates. You pay the full regular yearly registration fee for them. Because of that the state places no restrictions on use. However you might want to have collector car insurance on the vehicle as it is cheaper than the alternative and generally gives you better coverage. In this case your driving restrictions are set only by your agreement with the insurance company.