old-tank

The only time that the slot technique and easy-out worked for me is when I broke the bolt during installation...if the original bolt broke duting attempts at removal then a slot and piddly easy-out is not going to work. Then if you break the easy-out you are in deep do-do and will need a few carbide tipped drills to get back to where you started. It is always worth a try after you head the area as Palbuick suggested.<BR>Other tecniques: drill out the bolt and re-tap, but this requires near perfect centering of the drill; use a reverse cutting drill (Eastwood Co) which might grab and back out the broken piece; finally (works nearly every time for me) weld a washer to the bolt and then weld a nut to the washer...requires a mig welder and some skill and works only if the broken piece is in cast iron since the weld will not stick to the cast iron.<BR>GOOD LUCK<BR>Willie

Maybe the 57's are different...maybe my heads had a reccession problem because they had hundreds of thousands of miles on them and had multiple valve jobs. On a Ford v8 in a 51 pickup the guy at the machine shop talked me out of hardened seats since those blocks already had exhaust valve inserts...after 5,000 miles I lost all of the valve lash (gap) and the engine would not run when hot ( good thing I put in adjustable lifters).... thought maybe just breakin in...adjusted the valves and 5,000 miles the same thing...using lead substitute for the last 65,000 miles with no problems. Modern engines have either hardened seats installed or a treatment to the block in the area of the exhaust valve that prevents recession/ wear . If you are rebuilding the heads install hardened seats or stainless steel valves (not both) otherwise use a lead substitute. (Or just drive it until you have a problem and then fix it)<BR>Willie

I must respectfully disagree with The Old Guy. 20,000 miles after reconditioning the heads on one of my 55's I had burnt valves and significant exhaust valve seat recession running unleaded. (I even have a set of heads that never saw unleaded and have both intake and exhaust valve recession.) When I reconditioned the heads again I put in hardened seats. On another engine rebuild the seats were good so I used stainless steel valves. On my last 55 with the original engine I use CD-2 availabe at Wal-Mart...this is a multi-dose lead substitute.<BR>The compression ratio on the 55- 322 is more like 9.2:1...mine all run well on the mid-grade fuel...use whatever octane it takes to eliminate pinging but no higher. An engine that has never been apart may have enough lead protection on the valves and seats to last a long time...also if you drive it easy around town rather than charging down the freeway for 5-10,000 miles a year the valves and seats will last indefinitely.<BR>Willie

Just checked the plugs in my most frequently driven 55 after 12,000 miles and expected to clean, re-gap or replace the AC44's with (?). All of the plugs had a light coat of soot and the gap was unchanged....looked like 12 miles instead of 12K. The engine was rebuilt totally (stock) when the plugs were put in....stock except for Petronix Ignition. I've been driving and tuning 55's since the mid 60's and have never seen this!Willie

About 10 years ago I had a chance to but 2 full size stick shift cars. A friend had died suddenly and his wife offered them to me for $500 each. The price was not a problem but storage was since I was in the middle of a body-off-frame restoration of a 55 Century CVT and did not want to leave these cars outside. I also had a 54 Plymouth and a 51 Ford truck to get rid of.<BR>The cars: 56 Special; 70 Wildcat. Both cars had full power and factory air. Both were very low mileage: 25K and 7K.<BR>Willie

The door courtesy lights were an option. My 76 Delta Royale 4dr ht does not have them because I did not order them...I ordered the "important" stuff like 455, heavy duty suspension, cooling ,etc. When dealers ordered cars for their stock many were ordered with the same accessories.<BR>Willie

Hi Tom<BR>It could be the wheel cover centers are loose and rattling....try driving with the wheel covers off.<BR>Willie

Scott<BR>A local machine shop let me soak my parts in their tank they use for soaking aluminum heads etc which is the same as carb cleaner (cresylic acid based). I bagged all of my parts in screen wire mesh so they would not get lost..let them soak overnight water rinsed a little more when I got them home and blew them dry with compressed air.<BR>Willie

The five lug-bolts on all wheels are all right hand thread...however the spindle nut on the drivers side is left thread.<BR>Willie

Brad<BR>These shocks will last indefinitely if you keep fluid in them. I have rebuilt a few sets: remove top and all plugs and clean and flush what you can. I removed the lever by cutting to the shaft opposite the arm, hammered a wedge in the groove and removed the shaft; next you have to carefully pry off the sheet metal cup to get to the O-ring and replace it; the cup will not press on as original so I used JB Weld to secure it; the arm is replaced to original location, drilled and tapped across the cut and a bolt installed with Locktight...20,000 miles and good control with no leaks or failures.<BR>Willie

The interior colors will match the red&white exterior and was certainly available from the factory...I have a 63 (four door hardtop) that came from the factory with dover white and gulf turquoise exterior and a red white and black interior!<BR>Willie

Hello all...checking in with my trio. The 66c was an early production from Flint; the two 63's were late production and built in Arlington Texas.<BR>Ken: Who was the saxophone player you mentioned? Does this mean you are a sax player also? If so...my condolences...I play flugelhorn...another instrument hard to play well and in tune!<BR>Howard: Is your AC factory air or an aftermarket unit? Some of the factory air cars used a filter/dryer in the liquid line at the location you mentioned (3/8 flare fitting) and are easily replaced with availabe replacement from auto parts suppliers or refrigeration suppliers. Both of my 63's have working factory air so if you or anyone needs help let me know.<BR>Willie

Hi Tom<BR>The shocks are filled as Old Guy stated through the hole in the top with the square plug...use hydraulic jack oil. If the fluid level was very low leaks will not be apparent until after you fill the units. About the car sagging with weight in the trunk this is due to the 46 year old coil springs getting tired...shocks will not affect ride height, just bounce.<BR>About the brakes: the original manual brake master cylinder was directly below the driver's side floor and filled through a hole in the floor (with a cover plug) after you removed the sill plate and turned back the carpet and padding; the original power brake master cylinder was in a similar location but was filled from under the hood next to the steering column. No telling what was changed when the brake system was modified so you will either have to keep what you have working or get a complete manual system from a parts car: including all of the linkage and near by brake lines...check with Ken at Wheatbelt.<BR>Willie

Next questions: Can you change bell housings on the transmission ( put a 364 bellhousing on a 55 tranny)? Can you change engine and transmission (364 + mataching dynaflow)?<BR>Willie

Hi Tom<BR>Congratulations on a good looking and driving car! Don't hesitate to ask if you have an questions!<BR>Willie

Hi Ken<BR>The bushing and rubber was originally an interference fit but I glued mine with weatherstrip cement....the copper pipe union sounds like a good idea and will be much cheaper than the only one I had machined (why didn't I think of that?) Paint black gray or clear...my original car shows some black on the case but I have seen gray or clear at shows.<BR>I never worried about the bearing..just carefully assembled.<BR>I think that the pitman arm has a notch and will only go on one way....if not center the steering wheel and install with the front wheels straight ahead....or get it close and the alignment shop can fine tune it.<BR>Willie

Ken<BR>Take your purple stuff and clean it, paint it and install...and since you took it out of a donor car you now know what is involved in the installation. Paint the steering column and be sure the horn wire and contact and intact...if the brass bushing over the rubber sleeve is cracked or missing replace it now. I could not find one so I had one machined.<BR>Willie

Update...did not like the relay (borrowed one from a 92 Merc) so I wired in a couple of 1157's in series to simulate another set of brake lights activated by the mechanical switch ( the bulbs are in a bandaid can in the left kick panel).<BR>This project was not that hard but I would NOT buy another Rostra unit! First you cannot buy from Rostra or a distributor, only from an installer who would not install it anyway, charged for installation and then was clueless when I asked for help and now they tell me that the unit is not returnable and has no warrantee if not installed by them. Second Rostra technical support would not even talk to me since I was not an installer!<BR>I bought a mechanical brake lite switch from a street rod supplier who also sells cruise units which are less expensive and have support available...too late now.<BR>Thanks Lee for your help...if I were around the corner from you it would have been working much sooner.<BR>Willie

Finally I might be on the right track...could not get it work even with a new mechanical switch unless the cold side of the switch was wired thru a bulb filament to ground, but not just any bulb, a small bulb used for side markers did not work. Right now I have an old headlight bulb laying in the floor attached with alligator clips, it comes on when i apply the brakes but the cruise does work. Next I will substitute the bulb for a relay and see if it likes that or try a couple of 1157's....details to follow....<BR>Willie

Needed: window molding C-pillar Le Sabre 4dr ht.

In my experience you should never sell, give away, or throw away parts unless you have at least 2 spares...because as soon as you do YOU WILL NEED IT! So what if it's an engine block...you should have a corner handy in your bedroom.<BR>Willie

Hi Don<BR>Checked a 1955 Chilton's and it said normal oil pressure is 35...that would<BR>be hot oil...20 miles of driving. So quit worrying..oil pressure with a<BR>stock pump is more affected by bearing clearances than pump output...mine<BR>runs at 25# due to excessive cam bearing clearances...you have good engine<BR>...just drive it!<BR>Willie

Don<BR>Did you have your heads resurfaced....if so did they dress down the broach marks so oil will not have a groove to follow...just another thought and it was a reason for one of my leaks<BR>Willie

None of the 55's that I own or have owned (8) have or had white inserts in the knobs.<BR>Willie

Hi Don<BR>On the oil pressure...don't worry until you put a good gauge on it.<BR>On the oil leak at the head gasket...you CAN have a leak there from two<BR>possible sources: first the oil feed to the lifters could be leaking at<BR>this point but would massive and only when the engine is running; second it<BR>could be the drain back oil from the lifters getting between the head or<BR>block and the gasket. What kind of head gaskets did you use (curious) ?<BR>removal of the head and replacement of the gasket should fix the <BR>problem...I<BR>always use a little extra sealer around all oil and water holes because I<BR>have had the pleasure of dealing with both examples!<BR>Willie<P>_________________________________________________________________<BR>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <A HREF="http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp" TARGET=_blank>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp</A>