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old-tank

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Posts posted by old-tank

  1. I would just re-ring it and go. With today's modern lubricants you will probably be good for another 100,000 miles (how long will that take?)

    If this engine was disassembled in the '40's or '50's by the Buick dealer or any other mechanic that is what they would do, if the the pistons skirts and grooves are in good shape.

    I did one engine that had 0.015-0.20 wear and had to have the upper ring grooves shimmed and other than a little noise it lasted 50,000 miles (it failed from other causes...the rings were intact and cylinders still had the hone marks.

    Willie

  2. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> What about door lock's that look like chrome switches and are mounted in the vertical door panels instead of the horizontal piece below the glass in 55's. I have a parts car that have these. Or maybe this is common in all 55's, I've never noticed. </div></div>

    My model 63's have that handle and they are listed for model 43 also (no other model)...I did see a 1956-43 that had the trditional buttons. I gives the sill a clean look and maybe more security, but are a pain to keep in good working condition.

    The turned dash inserts were used only on 55 Roadmasters and Centurys (different parts)...they can be restored even if real bad condition.

    Willie

  3. Hey Ken

    You know that I am good at spending your money, but no matter how good a car runs, stopping is more important! If the brakes are that bad, I would not drive it around the block. If they have not been restored change all of the

    wheel cylinders, the master cylinder and all of the brake hoses and the shoes if worn or contaminated with brake fluid or oil. If the car spent any of it's life on salted roads then consider replacing the steel lines as well.

    Don't rebuild the wheel cylinders or master cylinder....you will have to do it again in a year and maybe contaminate the brake shoes. You can buy lifetime guaranteed cylinders from NAPA; or more pricey alternative, buy a kit from Kanter or have the cylinders resleeved.

    Willie

  4. There is no difference between rodders/modifiers and restorers. There has been much discussion of the butchering of cars by rodders/modifiers. How many of us have seen and/or been guilty of chopping and parting out a running, driveable and restorable 2door or 4door sedan to restore a 2door hardtop or convertible? I have seen it and done it. I know of one case where a currently registered 54 Special converible was used as a donor for a 54 Skylark.

    Even restored cars are modified..usually better built than the original and there are always some some missing or incorrect items that the we hope the judges don't catch.

    Willie

  5. All replacement cranks for 55 all series were the same part, but if used with standard tranny a pilot bearing adapter was needed. Anyhow the part number for 55 is: gr 0.646 pt 1318491 (this was not a new part number for 55 so it should be the same as 54). I donnot have 53 or 56 numbers available...maybe someone can check on that.

    If you are considering buying that crank have the machine work checked. Also if you already have your replacement rods and pistons have it balanced.

    Another thought: what kind of shape is your original crank in (a known quality). Most of the cranks I have seen only needed polishing and use standard bearings...these are very hard and durable steel. Also be sure you can get bearings of the proper size; I once had to have a crank ground 0.030 undersize because I could not find 0.010 undersize bearings at the time.

    Let us know how this works out.

    Willie

  6. Hey Ken

    Thanks for the kind words and I am glad you finally got it fixed. Just go ahead and order a transmission mount and thrust pad from Bob's or Cars and replace if they have never replaced...good insurance. If they are bad you risk breaking the motor mounts, then the whole drivetrain will move causing problems with your shift linkage and tow charges maybe.

    Willie

  7. A few years ago I bought a new set of tires for one of my everyday drivers and soon after gouged the sidewall on a curb, exposing some white that was under a thin layer of black and exposing some black that was under the real whitewall. After some trimming of the loose pieces and masking I sprayed the damaged areas with appropriate black and white rattle-can paint made by SEM designed for refinishing vinyl and other plastics. After 80k the repair was still good. I have not tried this on a show car tire. Most tires would need to have the sidewall "literature" buffed off unless already smooth. This would probably not stand up to frequent scrubbing, but did stand up to the elements and commercial car washes. This would be worth a try to salvage a damage sidewall.

    Willie

  8. I agree it is best to order from Bob's or other suppliers rather from Steele or Metro directly. The price is often less and the shipping is usually less especially if combined with a large order.

    I donnot agree that Steele products are always better than Metro. Steele has a larger selection for any given model and are usually good fit and quality, but there are exceptions. On my 55 Centurys the trunk weatherstrip from Steele is slightly larger than original and the sponge is harder making it difficult to adjust or close the trunk until it takes a "set". Metro's is smaller and softer and fits good right away. I had to use pieces from both Steele and Metro to get the CVT roof rail weatherstrip right; same with the auxillary 'strip on the front doors. The winshield gasket from Steele is inferior: they try to duplicate the original by having a separate section at the top for the reveal molding that is vulcanized to the rest of it with poor results ( they offered to take it back, but you cannot easily remove an installed winshield without breaking the glass or cutting the weatherstrip...this aggravates the hell out of me every time I look at it ).

    I ended up ordering duplicate products from both Steele and Metro and returning the inferior pieces....probably returned equally to each. I wrote this down somewhere...gotta look for it.

    Willie

  9. Hey Bill

    The car is not a teenager, so it is old enough and legal to smoke. It has always smoked some when I have followed you...not enough to notice if you are driving.

    Oil cannot get into the gas at the fuel pump, but gas can get into the oil causing dilution and oil burning. If this is the case you should smell gas on the dipstick. Also if the carburetor is too rich it can wash to oil off the cylinder walls, accelerating wear.

    Pull the plugs and you may be able to tell which cylinder(s) are contributing to the pollution...and then do a compression check.

    Willie

  10. This is what the supplier of the awards put together for the dash plaques and other awards and has become the logo all around for the Alamo chapter. They had a picture of the Alamo and I brought a picture of a 55 Century.

    Custom clip-art is always better than the generic stuff, which as you have found there is not that much of for Buicks.

    Willie

  11. Hey Ken

    This sounds like it is overfilled. Drain the pan and add one quart at a time until showing on the dipstick...drive until hot and recheck the level.

    As far as vents go there is vent on top of the rear of the transmission...you may be able to see or feel a 1/8" tube pointing down from the top. This is easy to remove with the tranny out, but is probably impossible otherwise. Put a hose on the end of the tube and blow to see if it is clogged.

    Did you do anything with the tranny when the engine was rebuilt? Was it working well before the engine work? All of this down time may have caused some seals, internal and external to give up.

    You may have to start saving your allowance for a tranny rebuild.

    Willie

  12. I have my generators rebuilt locally for ~$85, which includes new fields, armature, bearings, brushes,. It is also shot blasted and painted. And then it is just a bolt on with no modifications.

    It is peaked out if driving at night with high beams on, radio on and high fan for the AC. But again I try not to drive in town...this is my cross country cruiser.

    Willie

  13. Hello All

    I like to think of cars like this as post production concept cars. Anyone who has seen this car is amazed at the workmanship, which is even better than the Blackhawk. Ah, the Blackhawk, great car that I would buy if produced is wearing some vintage parts that some restorer might need. All restored cars INCLUDING MINE are modified to some extent.

    Think post production concept car.

    Willie

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