old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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JohnD
On well worn engines the upper ring will break and rock in the upper ring groove making it larger. Replacement rings would fit too loose and soon fail. Machine shops would re-groove larger and then put in shims or spacers (look alot like the rails on the oil control ring) to make the groove standard size again. This is at best a stop gap repair since the reason the rings broke in the first place is excessive taper wear in the cylinder causing the ring to flex (expand at the top of the cylinder and contract at the bottom).
I have done this twice on my projects. The first was a '51 Ford flathead six...I used NOS rings that failed at 20K. The next was a '55 322...I used at the recommendation of the machine shop the best moly rings. When the the engine failed at 30K for other reasons (cam) the rings were still intact and the cylinders still showed the hone marks. The engine was noisy from piston slap and had more blowby due to increased ring end gap. That engine has 0.012-0.018 wear on the cylinder wall...0.006 is the upper limit. I was just fixing this car up for resale in the mid '80's and didnot want to spend $480 for new pistons (Kanter was the only supplier back then). Anyhow I still have the car.
Willie
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Sorry, the Fisher body manual has ton of pictures but none for this...only the description. Talk to someone that has done this before like: Ken Reeves at
wheatbelt Antique Auto
Rt. 2, Box 178
Carrier, OK 73727
Phone: 580-855-2449
Fax : 580-855-2476
You probably need to buy sonething from him anyway.
Willie
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Hey Bill
Just put in the one you have already rebuilt for the Woody and then build this one for the Woody. You should really use the nailhead for the fastback.
Year ago I would have just cut the ridges on the cylinders, do a hone job and replace the pistons with new rings...any pistons with broken rings would need to have the upper ring groove cut and shimmed...should be good for 25-50k (the sparkplug change interval for newer cars) and then do it again. Or sell it to Tommy1927.
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This is from a Fisher body book: The molding is secured to the door with screws at the window reveal and door hemming flange. To remove reveal molding, remove garnish molding and upper section of glass run channel: then remove attaching screws and carefully lower molding and remove from door. To install, reverse removal procedure.
I have never worked on the large 50-70 series so I cannot comment on this further.
Willie
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Go to Walmart or equivalent and get a 'walkman' type single cd player with the adapter to play through the cassette player. If you burn your own cd's you can usually put at least 2 cd's on one...more if you burn mp3's...just get the player that will play both cd's amd mp3's.
If you need more info on sound systems ask any high school kid.
Willie
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Lamar
I cannot help you with the width, but if Buttercup is a low mileage car she will drive just fine with bias tires. Radials are an alternative to fixing worn suspension parts.
Willie
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I have a novel idea: why not put a nice set of BFG 2.5 inch wide whites on stock rims painted Cherokee red and top it with a restored set of the 55 bick turbine wheel covers.
That will solve your clearance problem and nothing will look better (except for wire wheels)
.Anyone can buy and put on a set of custom wheels and tires, but we are the select few who can do it this way.
.Willie
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I gap my plugs at 0.038 and use solid wire core as original ( usually have to buy as "off road" ). Right now I am still cleaning and regapping AC44 plugs...I tried a set of R43 which is the recommended replacement for the 44 and they fouled in 20 miles. At 18,000 miles ( my usual replacement interval for plugs ) mine still looked new.
Pertonix mentions that a wider gap can be used. Actually a wider gap is an old trick used to give a smoother idle, but with the stock ignition system the spark would blow out at high speeds and cause missing...the hotter Pertonix spark eliminates this. I also bypass the ignition resistor since all of my driving is on the highway at higher speeds (keep the resistor in the circuit if doing a lot of idling as in parades).
Willie
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The frequency of change is probably more important than the brand or viscosity used. Most of us will never drive one of out collectibles enough to wear it out even if using Walmart oil. I use Castro 20w-50 in all of my cars.
Willie
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Try this... Transmission adapter link
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The front of the 55 frame is different than the 54...there is a bar across the front that the bumper bolts to. The 4dr hardtop frame is unique even in 55....less mounting points in the center section.
Willie
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I would just re-ring it and go. With today's modern lubricants you will probably be good for another 100,000 miles (how long will that take?)
If this engine was disassembled in the '40's or '50's by the Buick dealer or any other mechanic that is what they would do, if the the pistons skirts and grooves are in good shape.
I did one engine that had 0.015-0.20 wear and had to have the upper ring grooves shimmed and other than a little noise it lasted 50,000 miles (it failed from other causes...the rings were intact and cylinders still had the hone marks.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> What about door lock's that look like chrome switches and are mounted in the vertical door panels instead of the horizontal piece below the glass in 55's. I have a parts car that have these. Or maybe this is common in all 55's, I've never noticed. </div></div>
My model 63's have that handle and they are listed for model 43 also (no other model)...I did see a 1956-43 that had the trditional buttons. I gives the sill a clean look and maybe more security, but are a pain to keep in good working condition.
The turned dash inserts were used only on 55 Roadmasters and Centurys (different parts)...they can be restored even if real bad condition.
Willie
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Should be like a 55...look for three more fasteners (bolts or nuts) inside of the hinge pillar, one is way up at the top of the fender....you can feel it but not see it...take the kick panel off for access.
Willie
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Hey Tommie
Looks like my 55 blue and white is in good company. But you need to move the pink and black one so I can get out after washing the car. (and no, I am not wearing a bikini!)
Willie
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Hey Ken
You know that I am good at spending your money, but no matter how good a car runs, stopping is more important! If the brakes are that bad, I would not drive it around the block. If they have not been restored change all of the
wheel cylinders, the master cylinder and all of the brake hoses and the shoes if worn or contaminated with brake fluid or oil. If the car spent any of it's life on salted roads then consider replacing the steel lines as well.
Don't rebuild the wheel cylinders or master cylinder....you will have to do it again in a year and maybe contaminate the brake shoes. You can buy lifetime guaranteed cylinders from NAPA; or more pricey alternative, buy a kit from Kanter or have the cylinders resleeved.
Willie
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There is no difference between rodders/modifiers and restorers. There has been much discussion of the butchering of cars by rodders/modifiers. How many of us have seen and/or been guilty of chopping and parting out a running, driveable and restorable 2door or 4door sedan to restore a 2door hardtop or convertible? I have seen it and done it. I know of one case where a currently registered 54 Special converible was used as a donor for a 54 Skylark.
Even restored cars are modified..usually better built than the original and there are always some some missing or incorrect items that the we hope the judges don't catch.
Willie
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I'm kind of late jumping in here, but I say leave it as is unless a group feel the need for an individual forum like the Reatta forum. The first new one I suspect would the 54 Roadmonster forum
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Should be like a 55...look for three more inside of the hinge pillar...take the kick panel off for access.
Willie
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All replacement cranks for 55 all series were the same part, but if used with standard tranny a pilot bearing adapter was needed. Anyhow the part number for 55 is: gr 0.646 pt 1318491 (this was not a new part number for 55 so it should be the same as 54). I donnot have 53 or 56 numbers available...maybe someone can check on that.
If you are considering buying that crank have the machine work checked. Also if you already have your replacement rods and pistons have it balanced.
Another thought: what kind of shape is your original crank in (a known quality). Most of the cranks I have seen only needed polishing and use standard bearings...these are very hard and durable steel. Also be sure you can get bearings of the proper size; I once had to have a crank ground 0.030 undersize because I could not find 0.010 undersize bearings at the time.
Let us know how this works out.
Willie
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Hey Ken
Thanks for the kind words and I am glad you finally got it fixed. Just go ahead and order a transmission mount and thrust pad from Bob's or Cars and replace if they have never replaced...good insurance. If they are bad you risk breaking the motor mounts, then the whole drivetrain will move causing problems with your shift linkage and tow charges maybe.
Willie
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A few years ago I bought a new set of tires for one of my everyday drivers and soon after gouged the sidewall on a curb, exposing some white that was under a thin layer of black and exposing some black that was under the real whitewall. After some trimming of the loose pieces and masking I sprayed the damaged areas with appropriate black and white rattle-can paint made by SEM designed for refinishing vinyl and other plastics. After 80k the repair was still good. I have not tried this on a show car tire. Most tires would need to have the sidewall "literature" buffed off unless already smooth. This would probably not stand up to frequent scrubbing, but did stand up to the elements and commercial car washes. This would be worth a try to salvage a damage sidewall.
Willie
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FireballV8
Good eye...you found more things wrong than I did. Anyhow what a hack job. It would cost as much or more to restore it to original than starting with rusty worn hulk. Ok, so it is modified, but even then it not that good, and not for the price.
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I agree it is best to order from Bob's or other suppliers rather from Steele or Metro directly. The price is often less and the shipping is usually less especially if combined with a large order.
I donnot agree that Steele products are always better than Metro. Steele has a larger selection for any given model and are usually good fit and quality, but there are exceptions. On my 55 Centurys the trunk weatherstrip from Steele is slightly larger than original and the sponge is harder making it difficult to adjust or close the trunk until it takes a "set". Metro's is smaller and softer and fits good right away. I had to use pieces from both Steele and Metro to get the CVT roof rail weatherstrip right; same with the auxillary 'strip on the front doors. The winshield gasket from Steele is inferior: they try to duplicate the original by having a separate section at the top for the reveal molding that is vulcanized to the rest of it with poor results ( they offered to take it back, but you cannot easily remove an installed winshield without breaking the glass or cutting the weatherstrip...this aggravates the hell out of me every time I look at it ).
I ended up ordering duplicate products from both Steele and Metro and returning the inferior pieces....probably returned equally to each. I wrote this down somewhere...gotta look for it.
Willie
my car doubles as a insect fogger
in Buick - General
Posted
On the 55 322 engine 0.006 is the upper limit for wear (I think it says so in the service manual).
I cannot comment on knurlizing since I have never done it.
Willie