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old-tank

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Posts posted by old-tank

  1. John

    Eastwood sells buffs and buffing compounds for plastic and it does work well. The way I restored knobs on my 55's is to chuck the shaft of the knob (had to make a shaft for some) in an electric drill and turn it into wet sandpapers, decreasing the grit to 600. Then apply the turning knob to the spinning buffing wheel. Be extemely careful and wear heavy gloves and protect your face and moniter the heat buildup in the knob so you don't melt it....go slow and think ahead.

    This is also how I polish screw heads and the stainless caps on bumper bolts (use different and appropriate wheels and compounds).

    My signature below will advise...

    Willie

  2. Bill

    I can't see how the rear main seal could leak that bad even if no seal were present...and you would still have oil pressure. (I will keep defending that seal since I helped install it) shocked.gif

    Another possibility is the oil pressure relief valve may not be relieving pressure and one of the installed oil gallery plugs was blown out...look for the loose plug when you take of the lower cover. This happened to a friend, except the plug was in front of the engine under the timing cover and it too had no oil pressure, but no leaks (not discovered until the engine was disassembled).

    Did you ever have any resistance on the drill when turning the oil pump?...you should definatly feel some when the oil pump starts pumping oil.

    Keep in touch

    Willie

  3. Hello All

    I need some tires for one of my '55s before the trip to Batavia and for another that will stay at home. I will buy some more BFG 7.60-15 from Coker tire again. Looking for the best deal possible I remembered a reply in one of the threads Tyres where Patrick, a representative replied. I emailed him and asked if any deals could be made. He replied that if 25 tires are ordered a 10-15% would be given. This on any size and can be shipped to multiple locations. If you need tires and were going to buy from Coker anyway here is a way to save enough for maybe a tank of gas. I will email Patrick with the link to this thread so he can reply with more details.

    Willie

  4. I just got my latest Bugle and included is the ballot for the board of directors with biographies of the candidates.

    I donnot know any of these people and was just wondering if any are regulars (or occasionals) of these forums. Also do any of the regulars know any and have any campaign plugs for any.

    To me these forums ARE the BCA today and those that aspire to lead should participate. Also others in important positions such as judges should be here to lend some help.

    Willie

  5. The idler arm is the least of your worries...just 2 bolts on the right frame rail and pull the draglink down, remove the crossover pipe, remove the oil filter and the flywheel cover at the lower front of the transmission. The ramps should not be and obstacle other than having to crawl around under the car like a lizard. I have a service pit in my shop and the last time I had to R&R a pan on a 55 it took about 3 hours. This was on a recently assembled engine...could take a lot longer if the crossover/manifold/exhaust pipe fasteners have not been removed in a long time. Also I had to loosen the rest of the exhaust system since the exhaust pipe needs to go back about 2".

    Have fun!

    Willie

  6. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">GAS PRICES ENOUGH IS ENOUGH or should it be POLITICS, ENOUGH IS ENOUGH! This not the forum for politics. Let's get back to our common interests: Buicks! On this board sharing information on the cars should be a priority and leave the politics and flaunting of and derision of advanced degrees elsewhere.

    Willie </div></div>

    Here we go again...this was posted in this same thread 6/1/04...

  7. It is 1300 miles for me and will cost $150-200 more than the last time I made a trip to NY. We plan on sleeping in the car a few nights and eating baloney sandwiches on the road.. If we do stay in a motel, I will negotiate a lower rate if I don't shower. I could also increase the air pressure in the tires to 90 psi and drive 35 mph for 18 hours a day. Or I could stay at home and use the same excuse others had for now going to Plano last year.... wink.gif

    Willie

  8. As you can see by my avitar I am into the old stuff. This car has some problems that I can't diagnose and fix and there is no one local that is willing to work on it. I can be more specific if interested: post, PM or email...

    Price $5500.00

    Willie

  9. Sounds like the seal at the front of the torque and the pinon seal is leaking.

    I also recommend drilling a hole in the torque tube to check/drain fluid. If your pinion seal is good the torque tube will fill with trans fluid and it will get inside the driveshaft and give bad vibration problems.

    The part about trans fluid ruining rear ends is probably sometimes true, but personal experience is different.

    My origianl 55 Special routinely filled the rear with trans fluid to the point of leaking out of the axel seals and contaminating the brakes...usually washed the brakes with gasoline and removed the fill plug to drain it back to a normal level. If I had time and money I would pull the bottom cover bolt, drain the whole thing and refill with cheap hypoid 90 that did not have the recommended wear inhibitors. Anyhow that rear went about 250,000 miles (car croaked at 374,000 mi) with various dilutions of trans fluid in the rear. I pulled ther rear end a few years ago and rebuilt it...other than a few pits in one of the pinion bearing and an axel bearing there was no abnormal wear. I just cleaned it, replaced the bearings and pinion seal...it is now happy in my CVT.

    Willie

  10. As you can see by my avitar I am into the old stuff. This car has some problems that I can't diagnose and fix and there is no one local that is willing to work on it. I can be more specific if interested: post, PM or email...

    Price $5500.00

    Willie

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