old-tank
-
Posts
7,831 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
24
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by old-tank
-
-
Lamar
These are the Fisher body manuals, useful for 54, 55 and some of 56. I emailed you with a special deal...actually anyone can get the "try before you buy" deal on download only if you are a BCA member.
Willie
-
Charles Dart is a good guy, with good products at a fair price. Can you post or email me his contact info?
I've lost contact and want to buy some more videos from him if available.
Thanks...Willie
-
Another example of capitalism....
-
F/S 1954/55 body manuals:
1954 closed body 40-60
1954 closed body 50-70
1954 coup and cvt 40-60
1954 coup and cvt 50-70
1955 4door riviera 43-63
1955 intro body service program
These all are in .pdf format from quality scans and are available from download (ftp) or on a cd.
Priced as follows: individual books plus the intro are $10.00 ftp and $15.00 cd; all of the books with the intro are $30.00 ftp and $35 cd.
Email for more details (click on "old-tank" for address)
-
A week ago I helped Bill Stoneberg with the engine from his '47 and it originaly had inserts for the mains and babbit for the rods. Even though the mains had inserts, shims were used to adjust clearance liked babbit bearings.
-
Alamo, North Texas, and Lonestar chapters
-
A closed car as opposed to a Cvt should not matter as long as you use the old shims in the original places and everything is square. Just bolt it down and see how the doors and fenders fit and adjust by adding/removing shims as needed.
-
They should name one of the models the "Orientation".
-
Is your car a CVT, hardtop or sedan?
-
Most of the Buick names sound French...interesting since the French are on a lot of peoples' "s*** list". Maybe some Scottish names would be more appropriate...
-
Yeah, I tried that and after hours of work it leaked 3 quarts of oil in 20 miles...good way to rust-proof the frame. If you can't pull the engine to do it right check the main bearing tolerances, replace if needed and install a new rope in the cap.
Willie
-
Mike
That is a later A6 compressor, not the A5 that from a 55.
Air was not available on the wagon or CVT (or 2dr sedans as you know).Nice car and well done...should be a good cruiser.
Willie
-
Hey Bill
I have an advantage on my nailheads: the service manual has pictures! It calls for 12 and the picture shows #1 thru #12 lined up with the marks on the crank and cam; if it is the same count 10 washers/pins and put the first on a mark and the 10th on a mark. Some one who has rebuilt at straight 8 should jump in here.
Willie
-
I assume that you are talking about the 'tower top' clamps that the judges will be looking for although other type of clamps were used. There are reproductions out there but all I have seen have a hex/slotted screw which is different from the original that has a domed slotted screw head.
They are a 'beach' to get off intact, but I have had some luck by backing the screw out as far as it will go and and hammering (tapping?) down the tower to expand the clamp. Then I have the correct originals replated (zinc)....or buy the repros and install the correct screw. Replating is usually best since the finish on the repros will not last as long.
Hope this helps
Willie
-
I've never used vaseline in a nailhead...maybe that thick red assembly lube (Perfect Circle) is doing the same thing. While on the engine stand I connect an external oil guage and spin the oil pump with a drill and watch the pressure come up in usually 3 seconds. Then I crank it with the plugs out with the starter (valve covers off). Then install and start it.
I once did an old Ford L-head 6 (rings and bearings "in the truck"). There was no way to spin the oil pump with a drill and the pressure would not come up using the starter with the plugs out, so we towed it around the block with the plugs out and that worked....probably could have just started it...
Last year I "monitered" a friend's rebuild of a 455 and he used Vaseline as recommended with no problems.
Willie
-
Christopher
I also recommend drilling a hole in the torque tube to check/drain fluid. If your pinion seal is good the torque tube will fill with trans fluid and it will get inside the driveshaft and give bad vibration problems.
The part about trans fluid ruining rear ends is probably sometimes true, but personal experience is different.
My origianl 55 Special routinely filled the rear with trans fluid to the point of leaking out of the axel seals and contaminating the brakes...usually washed the brakes with gasoline and removed the fill plug to drain it back to a normal level. If I had time and money I would pull the bottom cover bolt, drain the whole thing and refill with cheap hypoid 90 that did not have the recommended wear inhibitors. Anyhow that rear went about 250,000 miles (car croaked at 374,000 mi) with various dilutions of trans fluid in the rear. I pulled ther rear end a few years ago and rebuilt it...other than a few pits in one of the pinion bearing and an axel bearing there was no abnormal wear. I just cleaned it, repalced the bearings and pinion seal...it is now happy in my CVT.
Willie
-
Hey Mike
Why not do something constructive like tell Lamar about the need for good wipers
.Willie
-
I forgot the most important thing: brakes!
Replace all of the wheel cylinders with new (NAPA) and at least rebuild the master cylinder, replace all brake hoses and maybe the steel lines if there is crusty rust on the outside. And of course if the shoes are worn or contaminated replace them.
Also replace the seals and repack the axle bearings (front and rear).
Now you should be able to drive it around the world.
Willie
-
Lamar, you worry too much. Just fill'rup and take off like you know what you are doing.
Now if you really want to be paranoid:
Cooling system service...change all hoses, belts, thermostat, flush the block and have the radiator rodded, and change the water pump if still original (don't count on 50 year old bearings and seal) and carry a spare water pump and a fan belt.
Fuel system...change the fuel pump if you don't know the history and carry a spare; rig an inline fuel filter at the gas tank since the one on the carb is useless, cannot be cleaned nor are replacements available and to me is just decoration for originality. Rebuild the carb or at least disassemble, clean the gunk in the bottom and replace the gaskets and needle and seat.
Electrical and ignition...change points plugs wires or convert to Pertronix, carry spares and a ballast resistor. Rebuild the generator (bearings brushes armature and field coils) and carry a spare. Carry spare starter, voltage regulator, fuses, electrical tape.
Drivetrain...Change the seal and gasket at the front of the torque tube; the original leather is no good anymore. The seals in the engine, transmission and pinion are shot too, but require major disassembly. Change the valve cover gaskets and replace all fluids. Inspect the freeze plugs and replace as needed.
The only things that I have replaced on the road in the 18 years that I have driven 3,000-5,000 miles to and from Buick meets is generaters (kept using old ones from parts cars)...I remember at least 5 times and a leaky power steering hose ( bought a used pump with hoses at the swap meet). I have had other "adventures" including the cam chewing holes in the lifters (limped home from Chicago on 5 cylinders) and massive transmission leak that resolved without intervention. Never had to walk a step because of breakdown and never used a wrecker or trailer.
Just fill'rup and take off like you know what you are doing.
Willie
-
Bosco49
Did you ever solve the problem? My wife's 1990 is doing the same thing; I too changed the thermostat, temp sensor and the rest of the cooling system is new or refurbished. It is not getting hot but the guage is spiking, which is worrisome.
Thanks
Willie
-
herkamer
The plugs on a 55 are cup shaped, not dome shaped and are installed so that the rim of the cup is even with the block surface. There should be 2 on each side of the block between the head and pan and one on the backend of each head. The ones on the block are very difficult to change without pulling the engine and the ones on the heads are impossible to change without removing the heads. Permatex or just obout any goop will work, but JB Weld is overkill for this purpose. Your local machine shop can look up the size and maybe even order some for you....not a common size.
In a pinch I have used expandable rubber plugs.
Willie
-
Black with overspray from the body color coat.
-
As Bill mentioned we had a couple of days of winter (should get 4 or 5 more), but by the middle of the week it will be in the mid 70's and I will be driving my CVT again....bicyles are too much like torture machines and besides I don't want to shave my legs or wear spandex.
Willie
-
Here is a method that I use that works for me.
Pull the pan and the main bearing cap (that is another story...ask and I can detail that later if needed). If the engine has a lot of miles replace the rear main bearing. Inspect the rear main seal for glazing, I a mean hard glass-like surface (some replacement seals are fiberglass are nearly impossible to cut with common tools and will glaze in a short time)...if glazed both the top and bottom will need to be replaced. Replace at least the seal in the main bearing cap, being sure that there is none clamped between the cap and the block. Put a thin coat of anerobic sealer on the clamping surface of the cap and install and torque to specs. Next pack the side grooves with cotton string and No. 2 Permatex (I use a nail and hammer it in tight)...donnot use the cork or rubber thingys that are supplied in the gasket set.
My bet on a new engine is: either the seals are glazed or the side seals and clamping surface is leaking.
I once tried to replace the upper and lower seals with neoprene on and installed engine and that leaked very severely
All of this is much easier with the engine on and engine stand.....
Willie
F/S 1954/55 body manuals
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Steve
There is a manual that will help, and remember it is try before you buy if a BCA member.
Willie