old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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I leave mine in and tell the chrome shop to mask it off. It is not that bad to just plate it with the rest of the bezel, but if the build up of copper and nickel is too great you may have to ream it a little to get the connector and bulb to install.
Willie
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I think you posted this in the wrong forum.
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Jaybird
If your 56 is like my 55 you are stuck with that 4GC. I have one on a low milage 55 (19k) and after being apart 8 times, swapping parts from other (parts carbs) it still runs bad...stumbles just off idle. On mine the exhaust cross-over in the intake manifold is directed into the base of the carb. Unless you get another manifold, that is the only carb that will work. Otherwise the Carter WCFB is a good carb and easy to set up. Other than the manifold you will need to change or re-direct the choke heat tube. Adapters and spacers usually create more problems.
Sorry for no help...you probably knew all this.
Willie
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Hi Pete
I don't think it is the compression...my blue and white 55 compression is 110-125 and runs smooth and has decent power (not like my others that have 150-170). When I first got my CVT it looked and ran bad. Someone had been tinkering with it for a few years and it had new plugs. On a hunch I installed a used set from one of my other cars and it was off to smoking the tires and doing 'Dukes of Hazzard" manuvers off road on my place.
My point: put in a known good set and let us know...,
Willie
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Ken
A few points:
You can buy that switch from a local auto parts store cheaper.
A good place to mount it is the hole in the left lower dash ( this hole is for the power antenna)
The wires to the vacuum switch are NOT protected by a fuse and will fry your wiring harness if grounded with the key 'on'.
The starting circuit is pretty reliable and not that hard to fix.
Willie
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Hi Ken
Is it the stick or the pipe that is loose? If it is the stick , you can add to the "S" bends in the stick so it will grab the walls of the tube. The dipstick is not intended to seal the end of the pipe. Sometimes the transmission will puke out of the pipe. This is usually on start up after prolonged inactivity. This can be caused by the torque converter draining back into the pan, overfilling the pan and then when you start it the rush of air coming out of the empty torque converter will push fluid out of the dipstick pipe. All of mine do this occasionally but constant puking is an indication for transmission work.
If the pipe is loose then that needs work: clamped to the short pipe from the transmission pan and to the back of the right cylinder head.
Willie
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Hey Ken
The hum and vibration can come from the engine but is more likely to come from accessories or the rest of the drive train (transmission, drive shaft, rear). Your can eliminate the accessories by removing the belt to that one and running the engine briefly. Some hum is normal for a Buick and the vibration could also be normal but is noticed because bad engine mounts allow it to transmit to the rest of the car. Some times even new mounts will make it more noticeable because they are harder than the originals.
Drive and enjoy!
Willie
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Hi Ken
Not worry!
Sounds like it is working like it is supposed to. All of mine run above the normal range to nearly pegged high when up to speed with cold oil and runs at the upper limits of the normal range with hot oil. Then drops to mid to low normal when idling. You have to drive nearly 20 miles to get that 6 qt of oil hot.
Willie
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Pete
Try a known good coil, try wire core vs carbon string core plug wires, use non resistor plugs of the proper heat range, then rebuild the carb.
Willie
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Hi Tom
I checked my Fisher body book and there are no pictures of the clips. Also I have already removed the moldings and clips from my parts cars. If I had to assemble the moldings on one of my Buicks I would take another one apart to see how everything fits.
I could take one of mine apart and take pictures, but I would rather you take yours apart.
Willie
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Hi Tom
Depending on the model of 55 Buick and 55 Oldsmobile, the molding should be the same, so your best bet is to take the moldings off the Buick to see how it is assembled and what if any parts are missing. There should be a center stainless molding and two side pieces. The two side pieces slide over clips in the center and snap over clips on the side to join the vertical moldings on the side. The center piece snaps on after the side moldings are installed. I still have 2 parts cars and may have the parts that you need.
Willie
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Ken
If there is a connection missing at the fuel pump, you have a vacuum leak, that is why you need to plug vacuum sources and get a vacuum guage.
I have Carter and Rochester carbs for parts...let me know what parts you need.
Willie
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Hey Ken
Thanks for the kind words and congrats on the new runnig car. Newly rebuilt engines will smoke some until the rings are seated and all the assembly oil is consumed; or it could be water vapor from condensation in the exhaust system and /or head gasket problems.
The poor performance is probably a vacuum leak...plug off the line going from the intake manifold to the fuel pump and if that helps we can get you proper routing of lines on the fuel pump. be sure the vacuum advance on the distributor is working.
Carb is rigged??...how can they tell form the outside?...did it work ok before? Always remember that you need 3 things for an engine to start and run: fuel, spark and compression. It seems that your mechanic should know if there is a vacuum leak, bad carb, even if he does not work on them.
If you can drive now it some now your issues can be solved.
Willie
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You call that rain? Apparently you weren't in Plano.
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Check your local auto parts store like NAPA. If tie rod ends are not listed, they may be able to match it for you.
Willie
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It seems that a Modified Driven Award would be redundant since virtually all modifieds ARE drivers.
Willie
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JohnD1956
I use the tool to hold the levers in place while installing the diaphrams. Hard to explain any better than the service manual. The vacuum boost bottom of the pump will barely work the wipers if engine vacuum is not attached. Engine vacuum directly to the wipers will give adequate function at idle and slow speeds, but will slow or stop on acceleration...this is what you would have if the diaphram was not attached to the levers. If the performance of the wipers is slow always check the wiper motor and the vacuum connections. the vacuum line form the engine came loose last week, resulting is rough idle...tried the wipers and they were slow. Hooked to back up and I had smooth idle and good wipers. Of course there are other things is the pump like the valves that can give problems...I have installed the valves wrong and got to do it over.
Willie
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Hooboy, what a mess.
I did not understand the Driven Award when proposed and I still donnot understand fully...and it seems that others are in the same boat.
It seems to have the same requirements on authenticity as the 400 points system but not on condition or workmanship. There are some allowances on authenticity, but not enough for a driver.
What about cruise contol? In the 400 point system I would lose some points, but in the driver class I would be disqualified...
Willie
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Ken
The stock pump pulls thru the new electric fine. It is a cylindrical pump bought from CarQuest with fitings at both ends, an integral filter and is supposed to put out 15psi. I have a switch hidden at the lower left of my dash and use it as needed such as before starting to fill the carb and during a vapor lock episode (no vapor locks recently now that "summer" gas is available). It could be used constantly but it makes a lot of noise.
Hope this helps.
Willie
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Hey Ken
Driving at night with a questionable fuel pump? Anyhow there is a fuse for the backup lights and yes the switch can be disassembled to clean the contacts even though it was not designed to be opened. The adjustment of the switch is tricky especially if there is wear on the linkage...on mine I have to sometimes jiggle the shift lever while in Low to get the lights to work. One of those things that you have to live with...kind of like the glove compartment light and latch.
The fuel pump is installed and hidden on the frame by the gas tank. No regulator since I plan on using it only for filling the carb before starting and during vapor lock episodes. It is too noisy for constant operation.
On rebuilding the pump the only special tool that I needed I made from a nail...grind the point off, flatten the lower 1/2", bend the lower 1/4" at 90*. If you do get a rebuilt pump loosen the cover at the diaphram and while pushing up on the lever retighten the cover, that way the diaphram will not stretch during operation and fail early.
Willie
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Hey Ken
Glad to hear that you are playing in the street again. Rebuild your old pump and then rebuild the one on the car for a spare. You have already given that pump too many chances to perform.
But if you want to be stubborn and trouble shoot it here are some suggestions: check for fuel in the oil or at the vent hole in the body of the pump; then check that there no leaks (air or gas) in the line from the tank to the pump. A small leak in the diaphragm will make it inefficient or leak into the oil or vent (not all pumps leak at the diapnragm), and no pump will work well if there is an air leak on the suction side.
I rebuild all my own pumps and have not had the failures that I had when others did the job...not that hard, just pay attention to instructions/details
Willie
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"Give me forty acres and I'll turn this rig around"
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Lamar
I enjoyed meeting you and your Roadmaster at Plano. I have always said that you cannot have too many 55 Buicks, and I guess in your case you cannot have too many 54 Buicks! Kinda makes me want to take on another project (almost)
Willie
Hood Pops Up
in Buick - General
Posted
Ken
Just removing and replacing the hood should not affect adjustment, unless they tried to adjust it at the shop or dropped it. Just to be sure it is installed correctly, enlist 2 strong friends and remove it starting with the front hinge arm to hood followed by the rear ones. Check for any obvious defective parts. Reinstall rear first and be sure the shoulder bolts are are seated in the hinge arms. If that doesn't help adjust the latching pin down and out a little and be sure the pin drops squarely into the latch opening when lowering the hood.
Side adjustment between hood and fenders is best done by moving the fenders to change the gap. Unless you want to really screw it up don't try any adjustments on the hinges...if they have been straight all this time they should still be unless in a collision. I like my 55's but that hood hinge system is a $#@&**%$# piece of crap.
Willie