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Posts posted by old-tank
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In general I have observed that the size of the trophy is inversely proportional to the quality of the show.
Willie
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Will
When you removed the engine and transmission the rear end probably moved forward a few inches, so you only need to move it back but should not need to disconnect anything. Be sure the transmission is in park to lock the output, jack up and rotate a rear wheel which will rotate your driveshaft, and be sure the torque ball is loose so that the angle of mating can be correct.
Sometimes it goes together right away and other times it seems like you have the wrong parts.
Willie
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Actually it was Ken's idea to use the plumbing part. I paid a machine shop to make one for me and that works well too, but Ken's is considerably cheaper. All of mine seep some oil...I don't think it is possible to make a Buick leak free unless there is no oil in it!
Willie
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A local uphostery supply had tack strips that were plastic and worked well. In the past I have glued together strips of card board to get the desired thickness and that worded well.
Good luck on your project.
Willie
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Maybe this is what you are looking for: http://transmissionadapters.com/53-66_nailhead.htm
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For those who can't decide here are three more reasons to attend this show. Buick is sending 3 cars for display: a 1939, a 1936, and the BLACKHAWK!!
There are also some neat and unique trophies, door prizes, goodie bag items and of course great fellowship! And the weather will be great.
Willie
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The replacement pins for my 55 were short also. As long as you can get a few turns with the shake-proof washer installed it should be OK.
Willie
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Sorry to say the only way to fix this will require lots of disassembly both under the hood and under the dash to get the steering jacket off. You need to be down to the steel rod that the steering turns. When you get that far check back for tips on fixing the contact.
Willie
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Factory replacement engines of that era did not have the "V" in the serial number.
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If your Rochester is like the one on one of my 55's it has a provision for exhaust to go into the base that a Carter does not have. So you would need a different manifold for the Carter. That Rochester IS a lousy carb!
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Justin
You are right about NAPA and other real parts stores (not Autozone)...always try that first.
Please share your list with the rest of us.
Willie
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I put AC R43 plugs in my 55 322 and they were fouled in 20 miles. That also was using Petronix. So I cleaned an old set of AC44's, set the gap at 0.040 and after 22,000 miles they still look like new. Using the plain 43 44 or 45 plugs will probably be OK. My wires are solid wire.
Just my experiences.
Willie
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On the subject of those Guide 12v bulbs: If you look carefully inside you will see a small bulb inside and not just filaments; many of these have the silver on the reflector tarnished so apparently the whole bulb is not 'sealed'. I have a pair on one of my 55's and an extra good bulb and one with the low beam out. This is a very rare item since I have not found any at the swap meets and wrecking yards I frequent. These are not being repro'ed as are the T-3's which started in 56.
Willie
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Remember you can not have too many 55 Buicks! Age not miles makes the engine dirty. I bought one of my centurys in 1976 with 7000 miles and it had a dirty and rusty engine compartment and marginal paint. It now has 20,000 miles and runs strong. But it is a money pit: 5 batteries, 3 water pumps, 3 fuel pumps,replaced or rebuilt wheel cylinders twice, rebuilt master cyl, replaced seals=axle pinion torque tube and trans also gasket set for trans. repaint and replate (cheap job and needs again) reuphostry. And I still need to pull the engine to replace the leaking freeze plugs head gaskets and crank seals. Time deteriorates more than use. On the other hand this low mileage car will not need suspension parts or a complete rebuild. I would consider buying it if the price is right.
Willie
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I am in aggreement with AK Buickman. I have bought 5 sets of 760-15 BFG bias ply tires from Coker Tire and have had no failures in the two sets I have worn out. All have balanced well, worn evenly and handle well. And they look good too.
Willie
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Just get the originals replated. I use zinc on mine. Check with your local platers.
Willie
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Upholstery supply companies in larger cities should be able to supply "waterproof cardboard" for door panels and "interior cardboard" for package shelves,etc. In San Antonio I use JF Hagan.
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So what's your point? Packards don't need valve cover gaskets or valve covers? I've never had a need to run any engine with the valve covers off for more than a moment to establish that oil is or is not getting to the rockers.
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Send it back. You will weaken or kink it if you try to un-bend or re-bend, and then it will be non-returnable. Send your old lines for a pattern or make a pattern from bendable wire. With a little practice you can bend and flare straight pieces unless it is stainless which is extremely hard to flare with hand tools.
Willie
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Brad
Some more answers. From my 1955 parts book: the 322 uses a different fly wheel than the 264 whether dynaflow or standard trans. At the other end the the 322 uses a harmonic balancer and the 264 used a pully. The same cranshaft is used in both engines. I can't help with any 364 or straight 8 interchanges or with other years the 322 and/or 264 were used. I have no idea how they are balanced, but probably both internal and external: I am helping a friend rebuild a 55 322 now and it is still apart. The dynaflow flywheel will bolt on only one way as long as the alignment pin is on the crankshaft is present and of course the harmonic balancer will only install in one position. The flywheel has holes to make it lighter that are opposite the rear crankshaft counter weights making it heavier in line the the crank weights. The harmonic balancer has a built in offset weight that is in the same plane as the front crankshaft counter weights. I have had engines balanced and the machine shop needs all of the rotating and reciprocating parts: balancer and/or pullys, crankshaft, flywheel, pistons, rods, pins, rings and if possible the torque converter or clutch parts. On a previous rebuild they took material off the pistons and rods and added material to the dynaflow flywheel...on this current project material was removed from the rods and some was added to the crankshaft. You will see what I?m talking about when you get one apart.
Willie
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Hi Brad
Good to see you back.
I remember from some of your previous posts that you wanted to adapt a different tranny to your 322....check this out:
http://transmissionadapters.com/53-66_nailhead.htm
If this does not help I can check my parts book for 55 322 tomorrow.
Willie
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Was there PLASTIC? I didn't even notice. I was too busy having the good time of a lifetime taking it all in, visiting with friends and even discussing machine shop disasters with the next table. So much to do and see and so little time. You don't go to these things expecting someone to show you a good time, you make it happen yourself.
Willie
Dynaflo & Rearend swap out 54/55
in Buick - General
Posted
Mr. Earl
I live just south of Austin and still have a rebuilt 3rd member from a 1955. There is also a recycler close by(John's Salvage: 830-379-2092) that specializes in OLD OLD parts and there are some 54's and 55's small and large series. He may still have the drivetrain from a 55 Super that was running before it was rolled. Let me know if I can help.
Willie