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old-tank

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Posts posted by old-tank

  1. There is a good chance that you have carburetor problems, most likely a piece of crud in one of the main jets in the bottom of the bowl. One side of the engine is not getting any gas...backfiring is from a lean condition if the ignition is OK. You can solve the immediate problem by taking the top of the carburetor off and then remove and clean the jets...a complete rebuild may be needed. Anyhow put on a good fuel filter afterwards.

    Willie

  2. The earliest radials made for American cars were terrible! In 1972 I bought a set of Gates radials for my 1971 Olds 88...never could balance those suckers and the over-steer and "tail wag" took some getting used to. I then put on a set of Firestones and still could not balance even after truing and spin balance on the car. Happily went back to bias-belted.

    Later I bought a 76 Olds 88 that came with the GM spec radials (BFG) and still balance problems (but the oversteer was better) until I put on MichelinX.

    Now I buy a set of quality radials and computer balance and forget until replacement.

    If you bought quality bias ply tires when they were all you could buy (1960?) they were probably better than any that are currently available. All of the technology(?) and manufactuing effort was focused on making good tires. Also the roads 30-40-50....years ago were much wore than those that we drive our collector cars on today. Coker tire BFG's are probably the best that are current available.

    If I could I would change the slow ratio steering and the puny sway bar on my 55's before changing to radials. A few years ago the radial tires on my 76 Olds were "ice-picked" on the side walls and while waiting for my insurance company to investigate and pay I put on a set of 7.60 www intended for one of my 55's and the ride and handling were not much if any changed.(that car did look like a pimp-mobile with www)

    A few more observations:

    Bias ply are still common on large trucks

    If you want radials, put them on after you rebuild the suspension, not instead of rebuilding.

    Willie

  3. I like the glossy but I would also like more content. I looked at a 1997 Bugle: dull paper and no inside color pictures; the paper was still fairly thick. I also just looked at a Cars and Parts magazine with lots of color photos inside and outside that looked as good as the current Bugle. The paper is thinner and a little less glossy and the 130 pages was as thick as the 30 pages in the Bugle! The binding was also different...no staples. The current Time magazine has nice pictures, thinner paper and staples. I would not like to see the Bugle printed on paper like the bulk of Hemmings but there are satisfactory papers out there that would allow more content...even 10 to 20 extra pages would be a treat. The thick and slick paper in the Bugle is great for pictures but over-kill for text.

    Willie

  4. Thanks Rocketraider

    The beast only has 100K since the last rebuild and runs well and quiet. If I pull the engine I will be tempted to replace it with one built like a 70 Delta Royale that I owned...enormous quantities of premium fuel if you exercised it but 17-20mpg using the cruise control on interstates. Also the 76 is my daily driver and if I take it apart it will be months before it is on the road again. So far I haven't found anyone willing to do it for me at any price. And the slobbering goes on...

    Willie

  5. I have had undercoated cars here in south central Texas and it probably helped as a sound deadener. You will learn to hate it if you want to remove it during a restoration. POR-15 will not hold up if the treated part is in direct sunlight like on a trailer (needs to be top coated); will not hold up on battery trays and brackets; and did not adhere after trying to remove fabric glued to it. In most cases acrylic enamel will hold up as well.

    Willie

    • Like 2
  6. Hi Scott

    Hood hinges and glove box door latches are a big pain on 55's. Maybe those door poppers talked about on another post is the answer.....

    Anyhow I have 3 of theses beasts and they are all gimpy. First try pushing in on the door while pressing the button. This only works if the latch is still functional. Second try the 'gorilla method': loop a thin cable around the door and use a slide hammer to yank on it...may cause damage, I have used this on parts/junk yard cars. Third take the top of the dash off. I can scan and email or post here if needed.

    Willie

  7. Sorry, this only works on 55 Buicks and I don't have a digital camera yet. There is plenty of material in the repair kit for practice, practice, practice...the finished product should look like a new part and only inspection from the inside will show it was repaired.

    Willie

  8. Update: I bought a plastic bumper repair kit at NAPA (765-1540) and rattle cans of SEM primer/surfacer(39133) and color coat and it seems this is going to work well. The kit even came with a small piece of expanded metal aluminum for support which I used in addition to some screen wire. The finished product looks good.

    Now the bad news the kit was over $25 and the paints were over $20...figure $50 with all the incidentals like sand paper,masking tape,....labor= $0 for 4 hours over 2 days.

    So now I can fix the bumper gouge on the wife's car....details, details, details

    Willie

  9. I had a similar problem with a Ford flathead..used an impact wrench while putting side pressure on the socket and it grabbed and backed out...may not work on a nail head with the recessed plugs. If you do get it out without removing the head, coating your drill and tap with heavy grease will minimize metal chips in the combustion chamber.

    Willie

  10. Two other possibilities: check for blow-by...remove an oil filler and rev the engine, and if smoke shoots out the rings are worn or maybe broken; are your plug wire real wire and not carbon string resistance wire, and are the plugs non-resistance? In my 322 the original AC 44 plugs are not available and the substitute is a 43R which fouled in 20 miles using petronix (replaced with a used set of 44's and it is still running well and the plugs look new at 15,000 miles). Sorry but my guess is a very worn engine.

    Willie

  11. Take the valve covers off and remove the rocker shafts ( I've had some nailheads that would not turn because of stuck rockers on the shafts). If that doesn't work take off the heads...if there is rust in one of the cylinders you can focus your attention there. You can even take off the pan and start pushing out accessible pistons. Attach your chains to the motor mounts and be careful! This will be messy and not as conveniet as using your stand but do what you gotta do.

    Willie

  12. Hi All

    I'm looking for a way to repair the plastic skirts on the front seat of my 55 Century. It has the 4-way power seat so the skirts are different than the non-power and 2-way power seats (more rare). All of these tend to crack and break at the top center and around screw holes. I repaired it previously with fiberglass mat, bondo, primer and paint and it looked perfect until I put it back into service. Would the material used for flexible bumper repair be suitable for this...anyone tried it or other methods??

    Until I find the NOS pieces that I have been looking for the last 5 years I need to repair these and it needs to be a cosmetic and functional repair.

    Thanks in advance

    Willie

  13. What are the rules?

    Registration as a User implies acceptance of the following terms and conditions:

    - Participants shall not post any material likely to cause offence, that is protected by copyright, trademark or other proprietary right - without the express permission of the owner of such copyright - or that contains personal phone numbers or addresses.

    - Participants may not use the Forums to post or transmit advertisements or commercial solicitations of any kind.

    - The appropriate Forum Moderator has the right to edit, censor, delete or otherwise modify any posted message.

    - This web site does not verify or guarantee the accuracy of the material posted to the Forums or bear any responsibility for any loss, damage, or other liabilities caused by any posted message.

    Peter...these are your rules: the listed forum moderator for BCA-General is BUICK RACER.

    The bottom line is don't micro-manage the forum...let it flow and the uninteresting posts will soon die just as this thread will eventually die.

    Willie

  14. Peter and all of my friends at this forum: I used the BCA- General forum for the initial post ?new forum? because that is where my friends are and that is where the action is?the BCA-General is the second most active forum. The subject, I thought had, general interest to all and was intended to get answers, suggestions and generate constructive criticism. The Forum Technical Questions section is an obscure outpost that I seldom visit and it appears others don?t visit either. The post ?new forum? generated 13 replies and over 200 views before it was moved. There were no posted complaints about this being in the wrong forum (we all gently suggest that sellers use a Buy/Sell forum). My last question in ?new forum? (Could a popup question be added when you submit a post asking if you want to register or login before posting?/....might cut down on the unintentional anonymous posts.) was NOT answered! You need to read the whole thread again and will see that there are three different subjects there: loss of login, skewed picture and anonymous users. I still think that just because you CAN move a post without asking the poster or readers is rude and arrogant. The ?small things and small people? crack is a local saying that was not directed specifically at you.

    Peter I probably will not call you, email or send a private message since I encourage all who call, email or send private messages to post it on the forums so we can all benefit.

    As to anonymous above he or she probably just forgot to login ( hope I?m logged).

    Willie

  15. I posted "new forum" here at bca-general and added to the thread with a question yesterday and today I finally found it in the forum technical secton. The last post was by peterg and my question was not answered. I shouln't let small things and small people like this bother me but this really pisses me off!

    Willie

  16. Here is my method for a dry nailhead: Glue rubber gaskets to the valve covers with 3-M weatherstrip cement ( all surfaces must super clean and degreased...brush a thin layer on both the gasket and the valve cover, let set up for 5 minutes and press together ); use a medium bead of anaerobic sealer on the gasket and assemble as usual. Be sure the valve covers edges are straight and that they are not bowed from overtightening.<BR>Willie

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