old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Brad<BR>These shocks will last indefinitely if you keep fluid in them. I have rebuilt a few sets: remove top and all plugs and clean and flush what you can. I removed the lever by cutting to the shaft opposite the arm, hammered a wedge in the groove and removed the shaft; next you have to carefully pry off the sheet metal cup to get to the O-ring and replace it; the cup will not press on as original so I used JB Weld to secure it; the arm is replaced to original location, drilled and tapped across the cut and a bolt installed with Locktight...20,000 miles and good control with no leaks or failures.<BR>Willie
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The interior colors will match the red&white exterior and was certainly available from the factory...I have a 63 (four door hardtop) that came from the factory with dover white and gulf turquoise exterior and a red white and black interior!<BR>Willie
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Hello all...checking in with my trio. The 66c was an early production from Flint; the two 63's were late production and built in Arlington Texas.<BR>Ken: Who was the saxophone player you mentioned? Does this mean you are a sax player also? If so...my condolences...I play flugelhorn...another instrument hard to play well and in tune!<BR>Howard: Is your AC factory air or an aftermarket unit? Some of the factory air cars used a filter/dryer in the liquid line at the location you mentioned (3/8 flare fitting) and are easily replaced with availabe replacement from auto parts suppliers or refrigeration suppliers. Both of my 63's have working factory air so if you or anyone needs help let me know.<BR>Willie
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Hi Tom<BR>The shocks are filled as Old Guy stated through the hole in the top with the square plug...use hydraulic jack oil. If the fluid level was very low leaks will not be apparent until after you fill the units. About the car sagging with weight in the trunk this is due to the 46 year old coil springs getting tired...shocks will not affect ride height, just bounce.<BR>About the brakes: the original manual brake master cylinder was directly below the driver's side floor and filled through a hole in the floor (with a cover plug) after you removed the sill plate and turned back the carpet and padding; the original power brake master cylinder was in a similar location but was filled from under the hood next to the steering column. No telling what was changed when the brake system was modified so you will either have to keep what you have working or get a complete manual system from a parts car: including all of the linkage and near by brake lines...check with Ken at Wheatbelt.<BR>Willie
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Next questions: Can you change bell housings on the transmission ( put a 364 bellhousing on a 55 tranny)? Can you change engine and transmission (364 + mataching dynaflow)?<BR>Willie
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Hi Tom<BR>Congratulations on a good looking and driving car! Don't hesitate to ask if you have an questions!<BR>Willie
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Hi Ken<BR>The bushing and rubber was originally an interference fit but I glued mine with weatherstrip cement....the copper pipe union sounds like a good idea and will be much cheaper than the only one I had machined (why didn't I think of that?) Paint black gray or clear...my original car shows some black on the case but I have seen gray or clear at shows.<BR>I never worried about the bearing..just carefully assembled.<BR>I think that the pitman arm has a notch and will only go on one way....if not center the steering wheel and install with the front wheels straight ahead....or get it close and the alignment shop can fine tune it.<BR>Willie
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Ken<BR>Take your purple stuff and clean it, paint it and install...and since you took it out of a donor car you now know what is involved in the installation. Paint the steering column and be sure the horn wire and contact and intact...if the brass bushing over the rubber sleeve is cracked or missing replace it now. I could not find one so I had one machined.<BR>Willie
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Update...did not like the relay (borrowed one from a 92 Merc) so I wired in a couple of 1157's in series to simulate another set of brake lights activated by the mechanical switch ( the bulbs are in a bandaid can in the left kick panel).<BR>This project was not that hard but I would NOT buy another Rostra unit! First you cannot buy from Rostra or a distributor, only from an installer who would not install it anyway, charged for installation and then was clueless when I asked for help and now they tell me that the unit is not returnable and has no warrantee if not installed by them. Second Rostra technical support would not even talk to me since I was not an installer!<BR>I bought a mechanical brake lite switch from a street rod supplier who also sells cruise units which are less expensive and have support available...too late now.<BR>Thanks Lee for your help...if I were around the corner from you it would have been working much sooner.<BR>Willie
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Finally I might be on the right track...could not get it work even with a new mechanical switch unless the cold side of the switch was wired thru a bulb filament to ground, but not just any bulb, a small bulb used for side markers did not work. Right now I have an old headlight bulb laying in the floor attached with alligator clips, it comes on when i apply the brakes but the cruise does work. Next I will substitute the bulb for a relay and see if it likes that or try a couple of 1157's....details to follow....<BR>Willie
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Needed: window molding C-pillar Le Sabre 4dr ht.
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In my experience you should never sell, give away, or throw away parts unless you have at least 2 spares...because as soon as you do YOU WILL NEED IT! So what if it's an engine block...you should have a corner handy in your bedroom.<BR>Willie
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Hi Don<BR>Checked a 1955 Chilton's and it said normal oil pressure is 35...that would<BR>be hot oil...20 miles of driving. So quit worrying..oil pressure with a<BR>stock pump is more affected by bearing clearances than pump output...mine<BR>runs at 25# due to excessive cam bearing clearances...you have good engine<BR>...just drive it!<BR>Willie
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Don<BR>Did you have your heads resurfaced....if so did they dress down the broach marks so oil will not have a groove to follow...just another thought and it was a reason for one of my leaks<BR>Willie
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None of the 55's that I own or have owned (8) have or had white inserts in the knobs.<BR>Willie
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Hi Don<BR>On the oil pressure...don't worry until you put a good gauge on it.<BR>On the oil leak at the head gasket...you CAN have a leak there from two<BR>possible sources: first the oil feed to the lifters could be leaking at<BR>this point but would massive and only when the engine is running; second it<BR>could be the drain back oil from the lifters getting between the head or<BR>block and the gasket. What kind of head gaskets did you use (curious) ?<BR>removal of the head and replacement of the gasket should fix the <BR>problem...I<BR>always use a little extra sealer around all oil and water holes because I<BR>have had the pleasure of dealing with both examples!<BR>Willie<P>_________________________________________________________________<BR>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <A HREF="http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp" TARGET=_blank>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp</A>
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Well it WAS working! I got about 50 miles int a 1200 mile trip to west Texas and it started acting up: disengages for unknown reasons after 10 feet or 10 miles...sometimes uphill..downhill...level. Will not resume after this shut down but will resume if brakes are used. Also accelerated wildly sometimes right before shut down. Still shuts down when turn signals are used<BR>I did get a mechanical switch from a street rod supplier so I could isolate from turn signals...so if you say a ground is involved do I need to wire to a grounded bulb? Will try a few more things before I return it and try a different brand.<BR>Willie
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Hello Lee<BR>Thanks for your suggestions. For power I used a switched 12V source at the power seat cicuit breaker that is not affected by the turn signals. I hooked the brake wires as per instructions to the hot and cold side of the brake switch. My guess is that power is bleeding back to the cold side of the brake switch when the turn signals are turned on, but I can't prove it using my volt meter. I will try a diode on the cold side first and if that doesn't work I'll get a lever brake light switch and use it only for the cruise.<BR>On the products I used: it was the Global Cruise (no vacuun lines), the panel mount control switch which I attached to an extra ash tray face from a parts car, and the signal generator kit #250-4153 (the magnet kit would not work with the torque tube/ closed driveshaft). I could not use the 7" extension cable because of space limitations so I used another speedometer cable. The cruise cable anchor was mounted below the coil bracket and the cruise module is near the antenna. I could probably do another in less than 2 hours, but this one took 8+ hours due to reading , planning, etc. <BR>Willie<BR>Put in the diode and it still cuts off when the turn signals are activated..waiting on a lever switch,,,also it will not stay engaged below 50 mph...will hold and maintain 65-70 mph where I usually drive.<p>[ 09-13-2001: Message edited by: old-tank ]
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The brake dust from asbestos linings is no more hazardous than any other dust. <BR>The hooks on the fibers that cause the problem are ground off durings normal service. Do you see mechanics at auto repair facilities dress up like spacemen (the way they do when removing asbestos from buildings) when doing brake work? If it were that bad OSHA and EPA would be there enforcing and fining. Besides the dust is not confined to the inside of the drums and brake backing plate...it's everywhere...check the inside of your rims next time you rotate tires. Be careful with this and any dust but don't be alarmed and paraniod that this stuff is going to GETCHA!<BR>Willie
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Check your wheel carefully....I had one that was cracked and allowed enough flex to dislodge the wheel cover...scary.<BR>Willie
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Got a Rostra cruise control and it is up and working! Just a few bugs to work out...it shuts off when you use the turn signals. No permanent modifications to the car and it is mostly hidden and can be removed in 15 minutes if I need to show the car. Found out you cannot buy directly from Rostra or the distributor...just from the installer who wouldn't install it anyway,; and it's a good thing since those idiots were clueless! Trouble is I probably paid for installation. Anyone interested: details on request.<BR>Willie
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First my condolences to all directly and indirectly affected by this tragedy.<BR>Second my outrage at the perpetrators and our unregistered visitor "Zorro"...he needs to air his views in another forum or at least crawl back under his rock. I would also ask our moderators to delete his posts!<BR>Willie
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Hi Don<BR>Quit worrying about the small stuff. First on the oil pressure all of mine run pegged when cold idling or high speed and run pegged hot at high speed. When hot (20 miles) and idling the needle is in the center or slighty below...this is on 20-50. A new tight motor will run high. But you really need to put a known good guage on it to be sure.<BR>Second on the oil leak on the right side...check oil filter mount, oil pressure sending line...also if the rear main leaks it slings oil to the right side.<BR>Third remember if a Buick doesn't leak some oil it is empty!<BR>Willie
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Hi Bill<BR>For BCA judging it probably matters not what color the underside is painted since the judges are not supposed to crawl under the car or use mirrors. For AACA and other nitty-gritty outfits you might check on their tech and judging forums.<BR>For what it's worth my 55's were primer(red) color on the underside with lots of body color overspray. On my CVT I duplicated the color in acrylic enamel for durability but did not duplicate the overspray. (BOO...over restored...not "correct"...but it looks nice!!)<BR>Willie
left thread, right thread at wheel bolts?
in Buick - General
Posted
The five lug-bolts on all wheels are all right hand thread...however the spindle nut on the drivers side is left thread.<BR>Willie