old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Hi Tom<BR>I checked my cars and it seems that power and manual brakes are completely different. I do have a parts car with manual brakes, but it may take me a few weeks to remove. If you are in a hurry try Ken at Wheatbelt in Oklahoma (580-855-2449). You need everything from the petal to the master cylinder and the pipe from the master cylinder to the distribution manifold where the brake light switch is located. E-mail me for specifics (in my profile)<BR>Willie
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Hi Tom<BR>Give me a few days to look at my cars. I may even have the parts that you need on one of my parts cars. <BR>Willie
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See if your local automotive machine shop will soak it for you...they should have a cresylic acid or other solution they use to clean aluminum heads...wire everything together and put it in your own basket.<BR>Willie
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I have one that you can have...just replace later when you find one at a reasonalbe price.<BR>Willie
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Tires for that size car and load range evolved over the years: 7.60-15 became 8.45-15 became 8.55-15 became H78-15 became P225-7%B-15 (or P225-75R-15 for the radial).<BR>These all have the same load carrying capacity but became progressively wider and lower.<BR>Coker tire has 8.55-15 with 2 white wall sections...probably the closest match.<BR>Willie
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Ken<BR>If you are talking about the exhaust connection to the cross over heat should work well on the nuts. If not the nuts can be cut with a nut splitter....I even had to saw a few studs and replace after everything was apart.<BR>Good Luck<BR>Willie
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3.36:1 rear gears from 55 Century with straight drive shaft. New bearings and pinion seal. "Tested" for 1400 miles: quiet and guaranteed. $400 plus shipping and packaging. This unit is a bolt-in for 55 century and special...will work on 55 roadmaster and super if you change the drive shaft..will also work on others prior to 55 if you change tne drive shaft.<BR>Willie<p>[ 04-19-2002: Message edited by: old-tank ]
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Who is Mariah Carey?
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Other possibles: stuck or sticking intake valve(s); bad or broken spark plug(s) or gap too wide ; bad spark plug wires or mis-routed or too close together (induction firing); distributor problems (cap, rotor, points, condensor, wire from points to dist junction, gear, shaft & bushing wear, timing); coil; ballast resistor, Plugged exhaust (rag in manifold, muffler baffles)<BR>Try one thing at at a time and use known good parts.<BR>Good Luck<BR>Willie
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Finally got it swapped and working...the verdict: the torque tube leak is fixed; no new noises or problems and the seat of the pants acceleration is better..feels like stock with low speed driving and still hauls at higher speeds.<BR>Now I have a 3.4 gear set to collect dust or sell.<BR>Willie
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Got my gaskets today, two days after I called..guess I made enough noise....<BR>Willie
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FYI...the higher the dwell the closer the point gap and the lower the dwell the wider the point gap.<BR>Willie
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Some observations on tires: I agree with Ken and Bill that bias ply tires handle well if the tires and suspension are in good shape. I have used radials on a 55 and although the stability was slightly better the tires P225-75R15 were too wide and rubbed on the frame and inner fenders; also the diameter was smaller than the bias ply 7.60-15 and the speedometer/odometer was not accurate. They were also heavier, increasing the unsprung weight and making the ride rougher. To me the radials were noisier. 55's have no rubber bushings in the suspension except for the sway bar and panard bar. Not all bias ply are created equal but I have recieved good service from Coker's BFG tires...some of which are 15 years old and still look good.<BR>After 5 years steel belted radials WILL start belt separation no matter how few or many miles: this is OK for a daily driver that is driven 20,000 miles a year but most of our collector cars will be driven 5,000 miles or less a year. How safe is a new looking set of 6 year old radials with 15,000 miles and separating belts? Even the vendors of WWW radials do not specifically recommend these tires for use on old cars and are sold as is: you are on your own if they rub, come of the rim or even if they cannot be balanced.<BR>I limit the cruising speed of my 55's to 70 mph, keep the following distance at 4 car lenghts and take corners slower than with my modern cars and trucks..in other words drive <BR>to the capabilities of the car. Enjoy your Buick no matter what kind of tires!<BR>Willie
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Ordered some gaskets a week ago (torque tube and differential)...called today on the status since I have not recieved, was told they are waiting to ship, two to four weeks behind.....<BR>If you need it soon don't order from these guys.<BR>Willie
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I called twice a couple of days ago: no answer the first time; answered the second time but put on hold 3 times before I got my order processed. I was irritated by the constant "bad mouthing" of the previous owner who may have been a poor businessman and lacked "people skills" but treated me well and was my friend......
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Mike<BR>Your Novi air is in the factory location but is an after market unit...factory air was Frigidaire.<BR>The power windows are electric and are servicable easily...let me know your model and I can scan the R&R and give tips on rebuilding yourself.<BR>Willie
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Try Chester & Herod...800-659-9138
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Hi Scott<BR>Got you covered on this one ...will send you a scan of the page that details this.<BR>Willie
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Scott<BR>No change yet...waiting on pinion bearings...found one pit on the front bearing...probably last forever but since I know it's there it gets replaced.<BR>Will be in Kokomo but will not have a car judged nor will I be a judge (they had me on a team judging Reattas; totally unfair to those owners since i know nothing about those cars and don't care to; the team captain was an a$$hole who kept putting me down for my lack of knowledge on Reattas; never got a judging pin...big deal)<BR>Willie
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Scott<BR> I have a 21 tooth (for 3.36 and 3.41 rear gears) and a 19 tooth (for 3.6 rear gears with 7.10-15 tires)...will probably use the 19 tooth since the 20 tooth seems to be so rare.<BR>Willie
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Hey Scott<BR>See the thread: <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=001178" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=001178</A> <BR>I am changing my 3.36 rear to the 3.6 out of my Special parts car...the 20 tooth is correct for the 3.6 and 7.60-15 tires.<BR>So what am I trying to do???....trying to burn rubber when I play in the street.<BR>Willie
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55 dynaflow speedometer gear needed: 20 tooth<BR>thanks <BR>Willie
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]check this out: <A HREF="http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=1803774343" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=1803774343</A> <P>]<p>[ 02-16-2002: Message edited by: old-tank ]
55 rear gears for sale
in Buick - Buy/Sell
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No pictures..assembly is in like new condition inside and out...painted housing...bearings are NOS/NORS USA made and unit is ready to be installed. Someone out there needs this unit..if you are choking on the $400 then make an offer (used are $200+; it will cost you $500+ to rebuild yours) This unit is guaranteed!<BR>Willie