old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Part of the reason for high prices is that the individual stations are charging what the traffic will bear. Sometimes it is a certain area...isolated county or city. Sometimes there is a 30 cent difference in price within a mile or so; i've noticed this in Dallas and San Antonio...near identical Mobile stations and both are equally busy! Apparently not everybody is as price consious as I am.<P>Willie
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Completed a 2 week trip from south central Texas to the Nationals and back by way of Boston: drove over 4700 miles and used 300 gallons of regular unleaded in my 55 Century 322 rebuilt with low compression pistons (125lbs cranking compression).<BR>The lowest posted price I saw was 1.089 and the highest was 1.899 for regular unleaded...the lowest and highest I paid was 1.169 and 1.689. The lowest prices were in Texas and Arkansas; the highest was in eastern NY, MA, etc.<BR>Sorry to all who live there but the gas in the northeast STINKS: it had a foul odor when I pumped it and burned the eyes, it stunk when the car was idling, the drivability was horrible...lumpy idling,dying hesitation,and poor gas mileage ( gas mileage was 17-17.5 mpg until I got into that stinking gas and fell to 12-13mpg). Even the diesel trucks smelled bad. Also don't buy gas from the Seneca indians in southwestern NY...all of the local gas was 1.599 and their's was 1.309 (s good deal, right?) BUT I put 22 gallons in a 20 gallon tank when I expected to put in 18 gallons! ( Their pumps did not have the state weights and measures seal.)<BR>I had an encounter with a lady(?) in PA who was filling her Geo Metro at the next pump...she asked what my gas mileage was and after I told her she proceded to give a speech on the environment and that I was the reason the gas prices were so high! She drove off in a huff when I told her that I had a dozen oil wells back in TX (not true) and thanked her for buying my high priced gas!<BR> Other than gas I only used 2 quarts of oil...no other repairs or adjustments (should have put in a SBC so I could have had more fun fixing it on the road)<BR>Willie
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Just checked the bearings after the trip to the nationals...4725 miles... and all is well; the cage/retainers had plenty of grease and the bearings were wet. As i mentioned previously I used synthetic grease (Valvoline) so will ignore until the next time I do some brake work.<BR>Willie
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Many years ago I saw a 55 with duals...the pipes were run outside the frame rails with very small glass-pak mufflers...ask your local muffler shop. This is not the best place for the exhaust system if you drive in the rain but for a fun car it should not be a problem. Years ago I had a 55 Special with a single straight exhaust (no muffler), really nice sound and not as loud as a 57 Ford Y-block with dual glass -paks!<BR>Willie
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Could not find the fibrous wheel bearing grease so I went with synthetic...will check the bearings after my trip to the nationals, about 4-5k mi.<BR>Will give an update then.<BR>Willie
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The owners manual says to repack every 10K miles. I'm going to look into synthetic or at least stick my finger in some.<BR>I've heard of some bearing failures on the rear axel when using recent aftermarket....I usually make do with good used bearings or NOS or NORS from way back.<BR>Willie
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Pulled the drums on my 55 after 5k miles and the wheel bearings (ball bearings) were nearly dry. I used the same grease I use in all my cars and trailers: Valvoline EP NLGI No.2 soap base. Seems that the grease does not stay put and slings out...most of the grease was out of the cage/retainers, bearings and races. The bearings were all good but for how long? Other vehicles with tapered roller bearings have plenty of grease after 50K miles. A few months ago I pulled the drums off a parts car and there was plenty of thick sticky fibrous grease. I drove 55 Buicks when they were just used cars and only serviced the bearings when I did some brake work. Also I DO know how to pack bearings and adjust.<BR>Is there a more suitable grease available? Or do I just repack every few thousand miles?<BR>Thanks in advance...Willie
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All of my cars with carburetors stink like gas when summer temperatures start (March around here) and I still have the more volatile winter gas in the tank (also more prone to vapor locks)...try your's with fresh gas.<BR>Willie
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I have an OLD can of Permatex hydraulic jack oil that is labeled for hydraulic jacks AND lever shock absorbers.<P>Willie
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You're right: nailheads are more expensive to rebuild than a sbc; but Buicks in general are more expensive to restore than the popular Chevies and Fords.<BR>I choose to restore 55 Centuries, nailhead and all, instead of a 55 Chev which would be easier and less expensive. But look what I end up with, a BETTER car: looks better, drives better, rides better, and has more power. Reliability has never been a problem...I drove a 55 Special 365,000 miles and never touched the rear end, transmission, suspension or engine except for valve jobs or water pumps; I never saw the inside of any to these components until I restored my first a few years ago.<BR>Every summer I drive 3-4,000 miles without worry and have had no problems I could not fix ( I do carry a few extra parts: fuel and water pumps, starter and generator, and a set of tools).<BR>A well maintained original Buick is probably more reliable than something cobbled together with parts of many cars even if all of the cars and parts are Buick. <BR>Some talk of upgrading for safety like brakes and steering...not a problem if you drive a 50's like a 50's car...are you going to drive that 85 Riviera frame brakes and suspension like a 2001 Corvette? My point is to drive any car only up to it's capabilies; myself I like the original experience rather than the kit car.<BR>Build your car to your liking and give me a ride in your new creation...I appreciate the work that goes into any project.<BR>Willie
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Hi John<BR>Other possibilities on your upgrade: rebuild your 1953 322 (188hp) to 1955 (235hp) or 1956 (255hp) specs or use a later nailhead (364-401-425). Also the later dynaflows with switch pitch give much better performance than the 1953.<BR>If you use a 455 build it to 1970 specs because a 1974-1976 smog motor will not have as much power as some of the larger nailheads. Any of my 1955 Centurys will accelerate faster than my brother's 1976 Le Sabre 455 (the 55's do have a weight advantage...3800 to 4100 vs 4500 for the 76... and more advantage on the axle ratio...3.41 or 3.39 for the 55 vs 2.43 for the 76)<P>Good Luck...Willie
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'give it a knock to loosen it up.'....worth a try. Anyhow the vibrator is a metal cylinder (if you pull it out it has 3 or 4 pins) next to the power transformer , the largest metal cube in the case...this looking at the tube side which can be accessed in some radios without removing the radio. The vibrator functions to convert your 6 volts DC to AC which is jumped to about 100 volts AC by the power transformer, then it is turned back to 100 volts DC by the rectifier tube.........<BR>More information than you need? Everytime I had trouble with a vibrator it needed to be replaced. Most vintage radio repair places can sell you a solid state vibrator substitute. (vibrator substitute is redundant since a vibrator IS a substitute!!)<BR>Willie.... Never been accused of being 'G' rated
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Welcome to the shiftless world of Dynaflow! For more power at full throttle in drive the 55 tranny has a variable stator that acts sort of like a lower gear or passing gear. But for maximum acceleration even the owners manual says to start in low and shift to drive at 45 mph. Still don't expect to much from your 264 cu in motor rated at 188 hp (gross...probably 140 net)<BR>Willie
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Check your transmission fluid level, if OK see your service manual on the proper adustment of the torgue ball...if too tight it may bind and release and cause clunks, pops, and maybe bucking. Could be an ignition problem such an interrmittant short as the vacuum advance is actuated...quick test drive without the vacuum advance connected.<BR>Willie
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The top center winshield molding CANNOT be removed without removing the windshield!<BR>Willie
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Ken<BR>The inner race is the one pressed on the axel shaft.<BR>One other thing to check...be sure you are not getting transmission fluid past the torque tube seal into the tube and into the rear end...this will overfill the rear end dilute the lubrcant and even good seals will not hold. On all my 55's I drill a small hole in the bottom of the torque just in front of the rear flange to check and/or drain fluid from the tube.<BR>My understanding on the necessity of the inner seal is to keep the rear lubrcant out of the grease which may dilute or be incompatible. Also the fill level on the differential is lower than the axel bearings.<BR>Willie
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Ken<BR>The reason for the inner and outter seals is because the bearings and the space between the seals is packed with grease. If you are getting axel lubricant leaks then both seals are shot. Replacement is pretty straightforward ...just pay attention to the shop manual. I had to rig a puller to remove the bearing from the housing. If you need to replace the inner race there lots of ways to cut chisel or grind it off but replacement is easy...just heat the new one with a propane torch and drop in place!!<BR>Email me with your phone number and I will call you with details.<BR>Willie
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I use 20W-50 in all of my daily drivers and in my 55's with the 322.
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Hello again Bill<BR>Called the local muffler shop and they have your pattern!!<BR>willie
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Bill<BR>Stay away from Kepich if you can! the system I bought for my 55 was horrible: Y-pipe would not match up to the manifolds and the tail pipe had kinks gouges and pinched down where it goes over the axle. Then I had to pay to send it back (still didn't fit) and then pay to send it back again. They refunded the price of the product but not the orininal shipping charges!!...a $75 lesson....<BR>There is a shop in Seguin that has patterns for many old cars...I'll check on yours...all you will need to buy is a muffler from hopefully someone other than Kepich!!<BR>Why aluminized?...it's cheaper and quieter than stainless and will last a lot longer than regular steel.<BR>Willie
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If you use a 12 volt battery to power the dwell meter you will be running the car on 12 volts!! Even 12 volt cars that have a resistor in the circuit will have 6-10 volts at the distributor. I looked in some of my shop manuals and they ALL say to check spring tension...I've never done that...just install the points and condensor; set and check on three or four lobes and forget it for 15,000 miles. If you want to double check with a dwell meter 8-cylinder cars should be 26 to 34 degrees ( remember that the closer the points the higher the dwell )<BR>Willie
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WANTED; C-pillar window molding 76 Lesabre 4dr ht non vinyl top, Respond by email or this forum.<BR>Thanks Willie<BR><B>window</B><p>[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: old-tank ]
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Is it actually hot or does the guage just read high? If it is belching coolant all over the road it is HOT. On my 55 322 the guage was showing hot with a new clean motor and new cooling system so I put a mechanical guage on the other head and at 200 deg the stock guage was high enough to make me nervous and at 220 deg the stock guage was pegged and definitely giving me white knuckles! With pressure and antifreeze you can go higher than 212 deg before boiling over. Most new cars have 195 deg thermostats.<BR>Just some observations...Willie
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55 Buick is 12 volt. I have one that did the same thing..never did figure it out...rewired and the indicators work with the turn signals AND the brake lights...good conversation starter with a new passenger.<BR>Willie
'55 Generator noise & sparking questions
in Buick - General
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Scott<BR>What is the charge rate on your amp meter? A fully charged battery will show no charge or discharge with the engine running. The larger the load on the generator the more noise and sparks it will produce...weak battery or lights/ accessories in use. It does sound like exessive brush wear although the initial break-in wear is always greater.<BR>Willie