NTX5467

Just keep in mind that that NOS fabric is still as old as the car is so it needs to be treated with respect when in the car.<P>About 20 years ago, a friend had a '64 Cadillac that he was getting fixed up. He got the body and paint work done, plus the mechanical stuff too as it would be a family car when done. He went to great lenghts to get the correct OEM seat fabrics. When done, the trim shop workmanship was decent, but not show winning, but the whole deal looked good.<P>I saw the car about 2 yrs later and the interior was "gone". The NOS fabric was in pieces due to the kids "being kids". It was the daily driver family car too so you can imagine that situation.<P>"Repro" fabric would be the better choice to me due to the fact it is "new" or "no age". But anytime you repro something without licensing consent, it has to be a little different than the original (to avert copywrite infringement issues). Typically, it could be a lower thread count or less backing material.<P>Just as with the NOS motor mounts the other week, the same things could also happen with NOS interior fabrics. <P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

You might investigate if someone or an older Buick dealership in your area has a GM parts book for that model. Sometimes, in addition to the GM part number they will also list the then-current vendor part number (as in BCA or Bower or Timken, etc.) that your bearing shops might be able to work from. Also, that axle should be a specific Buick axle, I suspect, but then I'm used to people calling Chevy axles by their number of rear cover bolts. In that respect, make sure they are looking for bearings for a Buick.<P>NTX5467

Thanks for that great information, Scott!<P>By the way, Scott, your convertible IS the most outstanding vehicle of its type in the known universe! Congratulations on the great job you did with it!<P>I also hope we'll see it and your family at the 2004 BCA National Meet in Texas!<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I concur, I recall them being the green engine color. As they were probably painted when installed on the engine, they might not have a full coat of green paint on the bottom surfaces, but a feathering of overspray on them around the edges.<P>NTX5467

In the mass of vacuum lines under the hood, you might check the emission system evaporative emissions cannister. Some of them had the purge valve on top of the cannister. If the valve has gone bad, it can cause a loud whistle under certain vacuum conditions.<P>On some vehicles, the "canister control valve" is inline with the mass of vacuum lines near the front of the motor. Also, if that valve goes bad with a bad diaphram, it will make the carb go full rich and "fog mosquitoes". If, by chance, the whistle varies with manifold vacuum levels, I would suspect the valve was a prime suspect.<P>If you unhook any of the vacuum lines and find raw gas in them, the valve has gone bad. Plus when the carb goes full rich from the valve going bad, only replacing that valve will fix the situation--not tune ups, carb rebuilds, or anything else people usually try first.<P>Hope this helps.<P>NTX5467

I don't guess you ever saw Lutz's explanation as to why the Bengal was cancelled. I saw the Bengal up close and personal when it was at our regional show last October. It was one of those cars that might have looked good at a distance, but was not configured to be a real production car in its conceptual form. Personally, I think the Blackhawk was a much better vehicle.<P>Considering the way GM was going under the Zarella "bunch", it's a wonder they ever thought about doing anything special for the 100th anniversary of anything as they were always, reportedly, in meetings. The "Last 500" Intrigues were seemingly an afterthought too and had a specific color plus interior items specific to that "model". The last Eldorados had two special colors for them and little else special or unique. In those perspectives, what is being done for the 100th Anniversary Buick LeSabre and Park Avenue are "par for the course", so to speak. <P>It's always nice to have the "first year" and the exclusivity that allegedly goes with that, but it's also an observation that it takes about 2 yrs for a GM vehicle of old to get "right" with things (fit and finish, etc.). Therefore, it seems you have paid your dues for your orientation, but it's your time and money.<P>I concur there is little new for the 100th anniversary, but something's better than nothing! Considering the model cycles that were already in place, what we're getting is probably all we could have gotten anyway. If they'd put the supercharged engines in a LeSabre 100th Anniversary Edition, for examaple, it might be a better deal and give people a reason to buy them. <P>As I understand it, there will be no production limits on these 100th Anniversary Buicks either. That takes the "low production number" collectors out of the loop too. But I suspect that how many are built will be determined by how hard the GM reps merchandize those cars to the dealers.<P>I wasn't aware the Park Avenue had been so "stable" in its styling until I looked at things a while back, yet new features have been added every so often. Vehicles in that price class typically don't change as often as in other price classes anyway. Change can breed contempt just as much as familiarity can--just depends on the market and its clientel.<P>I regret that you've had poor experiences with your past GM vehicles during their warranty period, but I strongly suspect there are some other realities at play here too.<P>Just some thougths . . .<BR>NTX5467

It probably was a rubber boot of sorts. They still used that configuration up into the middle '80s, but the boot was always serviced with the intermediate steering shaft.<P>I suspect that at some time in antiquity, the boot was available separately and you could basically rebuild that joing, but I have not been able to find anything in the old books where there is a part number. The earlier boots had several folds in them whereas the middle-'80s ones were smooth and much shorter.<P>I suspect that there are some somewhere, but I haven't been able to find them yet. I need similar things for my '77 Camaro. I would have figured I would have run across some in the reproduction industry, but none yet.<P>I do have a friend that rebuilds front wheel drive axles. He has a whole load of boots of different sizes and such. I suspect that one will probably work on the steering shaft, but haven't got that far yet.<P>Anyone have any other ideas??<P>NTX5467

A couple of things to consider --<P>First, go into something like <A HREF="http://www.tirerack.com" TARGET=_blank>www.tirerack.com</A> and find some tires of the desired size. Then go to the "specs" area for that particular tire model and see what the "section width" measurement is. With that total width dimension, compare what it is to your current tires and see how much wheel well area will be consumed and if anything will hit the suspension.<P>Second, find out what the backspacing is on the wheels you want to use. This is the dimension from the inner mounting surface to the inside edge of the rim. Also, notice where the center of the tire will be (side to side). This way, you can see where the inside of the tire and wheel will be in comparison to where they are with the stock wheel. Now, get the same back spacing measurements from your existing stock wheel and determine where things will be with the projected tire/wheel combination. Don't forget to consider the upper edge of the fender and also with the front wheels turned to each extreme of turning. It could be that a wheel that fits great in the straight ahead position might hit the inner fenders when fully turned one direction or another (due to the wider section width and tread).<P>Third, there is a lot of camber change in those GM front suspensions as the wheels turn from right to left and vice versa. Putting a really wide tire/wheel on there will put a lot of stress on those short sidewalls and could even raise the edges of the tread off of the ground during tight turning maneuvers. Similarly, with those short sidewalls, the rims and tires will be much more vulnerable to holes (potholes) in the road as there's now basically no height in the sidewall to absorb these things. A wheel could also be bent plus cutting the sidewall.<P>Also, those wider treads are much more suceptible to hydroplaning on wet roads. Even that tread has deep grooves when new, it's like taking a wide piece of cardboard and wiping it against the water--what water can't escape between the grooves will be trying to lift the tire from the pavement. The wider tires might not corner any better than a similar 60 series tire due to the wide and narrow contact patch on the ground.<P>This brings up another side issue, if you need a new wheel a few years down the road, the aftermarket typically is always chaning their product lines. It's possible that a new wheel to match what you get could be discontinued from the manufacturer.<P>Just because everyone's getting 17" wheels and tires doesn't mean they are the best thing to have. But do be advised of some of the reasons to NOT get them. Your current wheels you have will support P245/60R-15 sizing (basically the old G60-15 tire size that came on the Skylark GS cars of the earlier times. That's a pretty wide tire without the same degree of problems with the size you're mentioning. Adding a set of those tires to your existing wheels will be much less expensive too!<P>It's your money, just be an informed shopper.<P>NTX5467

If you find brake fluid in the booster, just get some strong paper towels and soak it up and then CAREFULLY put the paper towels in a suitable container for appropriate disposal. There should not be that much brake fluid in there anyway as the excess would leak out (with the obvious trail on the front of the booster). Regular brake fluid and paint are not good friends!<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Typically, everyone pulled just the engine by itself and left the trans supported by a floor jack or other suitable fixture. Sometimes, you can stick some long bolts through the trans bellhousing bolt holes and use a piece of straight metal to span the space between the frame rails with as the bolts lay on it.<P>You can purchase a winch attachment for your engine hoist that will let you pull the trans/engine combination. It tilts the engine front upward to let the trans clear what it need to clear as the whole thing comes out. I believe that TransDapt sells that stuff. Don't forget to take the rear trans mount and maybe the transmission crossmember loose or removed before doing it this way. <P>It's really works pretty slick to do it this way as you don't have to worry about hooking up the converter to flywheel bolts from under the car. But you'll have to take them out anyway to separate the trans from the engine, just a matter or where you do it and how comfortable it is.<P>Be sure to mark the hood hinge bolts and such so you can get it put back in the same place. You might need a hoist for the hood by itself too.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Those are the sonic sensors for the parking assist option. I wish they didn't look like painted "zits" on the bumpers, though, and wish they could disguise them better, but I guess you need to see what you paid for. There's a display inside (visible with audible warning tones) to tell you how close you are to something back there.<P>They also exist on Ford Windstar vans too. They would make sense for a SUV or van-type vehicle, but on a lower to the ground car I might question the necessity of it. But if it saves lives and property damage, it could have it's good points. <P>I guess it's a more reasonable alternative to the rear video camera on an Infinity Q45 though.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I read a short interview of Tiger in The Automotive News (July 1, 2002 edition) last night. Tiger's very happy with his Buick contract and has enjoyed being associated with the "Buick family" as he called it. There was no mention of when the next contract will be negotiated.<P>I read the DetNews article, Roberta, and it appears the script was wanting him to be something other than the good guy he is. Hence, he wasn't comfortable with it and questioned it (from what I could see).<P>The Escalade might have a humble Chevrolet as it's base, but with all of the stuff it has (AWD, electronic suspension controls with Stabilitrack, specific instrument cluster and instrument panel items, electric heat in the rear seats, and other Cadillac specific items) it's more worth the price over an similar Tahoe (which can peak at about $41,000 or so window sticker) than the Lincoln Blackwood is compared to a Ford pickup.<P>The Blackwood's stainless steel lined bed (with the rear bed cover and related items) was a great concept vehicle and a neat production vehicle, but where they blew it was on the interior. For some reason, the rear seats on Ford crew cab pickups have been "small" for some reason--narrow doors, no rear seat leg room, etc. The current models have what amounts to two jump seats with a wide console between then. All the Lincoln has is different upholstery from the Ford. Even the Navigator has a much better rear seat accomodation! It looks like a Lincoln from the outside, but inside it screams "Ford with a different leather interior" to me.<P>When I compared both at the new car show, the Cadillac wins hands down inside and out--period. If I was going spend that kind of money, it would probably be a BMW X5 or the Escalade, but the Escalade would probably be the pick due to greater cargo area.<P>The first gen Escalade was a warmed over Tahoe, but the current one has enough Cadillac-specific stuff in it to earn it's Wreath and Crest. The only thing I'd add would be some brushed stainless sill plates with "CADILLAC" on them for all four doors and the rear hatch.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

What you are talking about as "struts" are actually "strut replacement cartridges".<P>Your options:<BR> -- the AC-Delco "Reactek" strut assemblies that are OEM equipment on GM cars. This should put things back like they used to be, maybe even a little firmer but not harsh. Source--GM dealers and probably AC-Delco suppliers, but AC-Delco also makes a full line of other struts that seem to confuse matters. Key words = "Reactek" and "strut assembly"<BR> -- KYB does make a strut assembly for your car (I checked their website a while back for fwd Buick applications). I wasn't aware of any reliability issues with them as they are typically a solid aftermarket brand. Handling and ride would be firmer than stock, though, which can be good. My preference would be KONIs, but they aren't available for some reason. KYB does have a list of retailers and installers you can access on their website who should be able to address your concerns on reliability and warranty issues.<BR> -- The Gabriel items you mention are "replacement strut cartridges" and not "strut assemblies". The regular strut, as you see on your vehicle, is a complete assembly (less the spring and upper mounting items). What most of the aftermarket companies do is sell "the guts" of the strut in the form of a cartridge. To install the cartridge, the strut assembly must first be removed. Then, the upper area is cut to remove the cartridge (the shock absorber part) from the housing. Then, the cartridge tube should be inspected to make sure there's a little oil in the bottom (helps with heat dissipation). The new cartridge is then put into the existing strut housing, a nut cuts threads into the housing to hold the new cartridge in place, then the refurbished strut is reinstalled on the vehicle.<P>When you price strut assemblies at the dealership, the price might seem high compared to the $40.00 you mentioned, but when you figure the extra labor to install the strut cartridges, the total price is not too far off. In either scenario, you'll need to have the front end alignment done as the lower strut attachment is also an alignment adjustment area.<P>For someone that's going to keep their vehicle for ever and 3 days, or whose driving environment wears out the suspension components fast, the cartridge deal would be the cheapest in the long run (if you're going to keep it long enough to need 2 or 3 sets of cartridges), but otherwise, the most expeditious way would be the strut assembly replacement. Plus, there's less room for things to get mucked up by a poor installer that way too.<P>Strut replacement is not the same as with shock absorbers. To do strut replacement, you need to disassemble the front suspension and need an approved strut spring compressor tool affixed to a solid mounting area. Definitely not the same as unbolting a few bolts and swapping shock absorbers as in the older days.<P>Gabriel's a long time and reputable brand, for sure, but I got some of their VST Technology shocks for the front of my '77 Camaro (while I got more money to buy some KONIs) and they were awful. The front end felt like it was floating all the time, especially after the first 1000 miles or so. Whenever the VST stuff was supposed to kick in, it was way too late or it was way too soft. I really liked their old Striders, but their new stuff is very different. <P>Monroe's got some of the similar (what I call "flaky technology") stuff in their newer shocks/struts, but my pref would be the KYBs since I couldn't get any KONIs for that application.<P>It's your money to spend. Just be an informed shopper and know what you're buying before you do it.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Sounds like the master cylinder is "bypassing", meaning the cups on the piston have probably deteriorated and the whole deal needs a quality rebuild or a reman cylinder unit.<P>If it was the booster, the pedal would be hard and there would be a hiss and/or an engine miss when the pedal was depressed (due to the vacuum leak in the booster diaphram).<P>If there's a "trail" starting where the cylinder bolts onto the booster and moving toward the bottom of the booster "can", you'll probably find the booster diaphram has a puddle of brake fluid in it from the leaking master cylinder piston cups. Usually, such a trail will precede master cylinder problems.<P>NTX5467

When I quoted the parts price the other night, I was working from memory. When I checked it last night, the injector unit was right at $475.00 and the upper intake gasket would put things at the $500.00 level.<P>There are some good trade schools out there and we've been lucky to snag several of those younger guys. We've got another guy on our night shift (born in about '72) that I had to give a quick short course on '85 Chevy pickup electronic engine controls as "he didn't know about those older vehicles". But he was a part owner in a private and a chain repair shop, with several years experience with Nissan so he can figure things out.<P>Yes, there is a shortage of younger people who desire to be automotive technicians. What they don't realize is that in a larger metro market, they can easily crack the $50K/year range pretty easily after they get a few years experience. GM has a cooperative plan where the participant will come out with an Associate of Arts degree and a job as a trained technician, which is a pretty trick deal for someone so motivated. GM, Ford, and Chrysler are all pouring as much into the high school auto shop courses (when they are NATEF certified) to get the ball rolling in the high school vocational levels. Even the import makes are in the game too.<P>In most cases, the days of hiring someone off the street to work on cars are pretty much gone--unless they've got manufacturer credentials of courses passed and good work experience. But, it still happens in some cases.<P>And, of course, the next niche in the technician's world will be vintage cars, meaning "pre computer" era. Back when they knew what real sheet metal was. I'll tell you about my adventures trying to find some "distributor point grease" in the current auto supply world another time . . .<P>There's plenty of room in the automotive world for our more vintage vehicles and the newer stuff too, we just need to find that comfort zone.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

As far as "numbers" go, station wagons are a vanishing breed of vehicle. There typically were fewer produced than the more desirable hardtops or convertibles plus they were used for what they were and discarded. There were some fabulous station wagons built in the '50s and '60s too, but few people really appreciate them so they'll walk right past a pristine station wagon to a more common hot rod GS with wide tires and chrome under the hood.<P>The link John provided is to one of the largest station wagon groups in the USA. A good station wagon deserves to be saved and restored, but the market for such will never be there like it would be for a real GS Stage I, for example.<P>NTX5467

The injection unit you speak of is the "Central Port Injection" unit that is one big injector feeding the six smaller injectors for each cylinder. From what we've seen, the main issue is them "dribbling" with time and age, causing the EGR system to clog up and malfunction. If you'd done that repair on your own, or had an independent shop do it, you would have paid labor BOTH times on that repair, even though the part obviously was parts warrantied the second time. So, even though a secondary issue caused the second failure, it was still cheaper to let the dealership do it.<P>The $700.00 (approx) for that part is still cheaper than the $150.00 (approx) each for fuel injectors on the port fuel injection motors. Similarly, most of these things are covered under the factory emissions system warranty or extended warranties so the out of pocket expense to the customer is minimal (if they bought the longer term extended warranty). <P>At the present time, my regular driver is my '77 Camaro that I bought new. Now, it's not the most pristine thing around, but I do keep it reasonably maintained myself. With 564,000 miles on the original 305, I suspect it's already outlasted many imports famous for their long term durability. Your experiences might vary. I also have some other American cars too, most with higher mileages and still in good condition.<P>If I need a newer car for an out of town or weekend trip, I head to National or Thrifty or Dollar for a rent car. That $100.00 for a weekend rental is cheaper than car payments. Plus, if something breaks, I call somebody, but no problems have been encountered yet.<P>I suspect that even a lowly oriental import will have no trouble running farther than 100,000 miles with no trouble. I remember, as you probably do, when cars were worn out at 80,000 miles. I thought I was doing good to get a Chevrolet engine to run 200,000 miles, but I'm well past that now. Engine repairs? I put a Cloyes Plus Roller timing chain set in it at 92,000 miles when I replaced the timing chain, upgraded from 2bbl to 4bbl, and slightly upgraded the cam.<P>The modern cars might lack the heavy metal of prior decades, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are "junk" or "throw aways". In some cases, we regularly see customers with 150,000+ miles on their late model GM cars. Probably for driveability issues, so we put new plugs, wires, and other ignition parts (which were still original in many cases) and things are fine again. And we do see a good deal of vehicles with fuel pump failures from not changing the fuel filters often enough.<P>The one area that many of the newer cars might be classed as "throw aways" is when they get seriously whacked in a wreck. All of that energy has to go somewhere so the basic body structure deforms. Less repairability in some instances (especially the smaller cars) when compared to something from the 1970s, for example, or more expensive repairability when it happens. Yet, I do know I'm safer in a later model car than in my more vintage ones. A later model car that gets better fuel economy with less required maintenance and markedly less exhaust emissions too.<P>I regret that you have such a low opinion of dealership service technicians. Granted, there are some good techs out in private shops who do a very good job for their customers. In fact, if you do have a private shop technician that is very good, you certainly need to take care of him as he's a vanishing breed. <P>One advantage those private shops have is that they can pick and choose their customers as they desire. They can also pick and choose the types of repairs they do. By doing things they are good at (maybe branching out in some cases to other areas) they keep their customers happy and build a loyal customer base and the profitability that comes from that. <P>At the dealership level, we have to be ready for anything. We are expected to "work miracles in an instant" sometimes too. If we make a customer mad, it could well be reflected in our CSI ratings with the manufacturer. As a result, we tend to get all of the other repair jobs the private shops or chain shops don't want to do--plus the repairs that owners tried to do and couldn't (loosing some of the parts in the process) complete for various reasons. It takes more money to support a dealership service department than it does a private repair shop too--hence, the higher labor rates and such. <P>In many cases, you still get what you pay for. If you look at the value you get from your private shop mechanic (who hopefully's been in business for a good while) at his labor rate versus what the dealership has to maintain as a matter of daily business at their higher labor rate (which is approved by GM as that what GM agrees to pay for warranty work), there is value in both places. The private shop can rely on AllData for their service information whereas the dealership has a direct line into GM Tech Assistance plus rooms full of current service manuals and other information via the Internet. In some cases, we have to use all of those resources too.<P>Key thing is that you are doing business where you are most comfortable, but at some time or another, a dealership experience can be the least expensive alternative in the long run.<P>Just some additional thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

The Painless Wiring operation grew out of the street rod hobby several years ago. All of the pieces are OEM Packard Electric items (or were back then) with more late model style fuse/relay/flasher items. In the years since that first start, Painless has expanded their operation and product line greatly. If you buy the kit from GMPerformance Parts, it's a Painless Wiring kit. I suspect that color codes are compatible with existing GM architecture too.<P>From what I gather, their kits are somewhat generic so you might have to do some cut and connect activities at the wire ends. But, to me, the best thing is the OEM Spec pieces as it has been observed that some of the repro wiring harnesses might not have the same quality of wire/insulation as the production items did.<P>Plus, I can drive to the Painless office in about 25 minutes. I know the owner and one of his development people. From what I've seen, they are quality people.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Geno, one thing I like to do with intake manifold gaskets is to get some high temp silicone, lay the individual gaskets on a flat surface, spread the silicone so that it lays in the embossed grooves in the gasket, smooth it out with a gasket scraper, and let it tack off before putting a thin coat of silicone on the other side too.<P>The thin silicone coating on each side will make it easier to clean up later if you have to pull things apart. The resultant bead of silicone in the embossed grooves will serve to make the older style gasket into the "Print-O-Seal" gasket that seals much better.<P>Your comments about using discretion in how much silicone sealer is used is accurate. Pressure and gasket compression are the main modes of sealing, the silicone is there for added durability and longevity of the seal. If you think of that bead of silicone doing the same thing as PlastiGage (when you check bearing clearances with it), it becomes clear that big blobs are not needed.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I can tell you that the media accounts of this are far overblown. <P>In the near past, GM did have some codes in their computers to keep generic scan tools from being able to read the data, but the dealers are supposed to reflash the computer -- for free -- on the affected vehicles. If a dealer refuses, just call the 1-800 customer assistance number and those people can get things straightened out with the service people.<P>As for some Mitsubishi engines, if the same engine is in a Chrysler, tell the scan tool it's hooked to a Chrysler and it will probably work. It seems that the import makes have used the apparent loopholes in the OBD II rules to keep generic tools from reading their codes.<P>I also guess that many people have forgotten that they can buy service manuals which have the codes. Then they just need the scanners to read them.<P>Now, what many people away from the dealership end of things seem to forget is that some codes do interact and can produce a false code situation. If you go to Jiffy Lube (for example) or AutoZone and they pull codes from your computer, replacing those particular parts doesn't necessarily mean the codes will not reset later--meaning you still have to know what causes a code to set rather than just starting to replace parts. Plus, after you pay that aftermarket repair shop to pull those codes (from what I understand, they will charge basically 1 dealership hour labor for that little deal), then take the list of suggested repairs to another repair shop or dealership, you will pay the diagnostic fee AGAIN as that technician will use his diagnostic tools to verify any suspected diagnosis situation before replacing any parts. So, that aftermarket repair shop just victimized you worse than any car dealer would have if you'd gone there first. I understand that AutoZone will do it for free, but they want to sell you the parts. <P>GM will sell their Tech2 diagnostic tools to the aftermarket repair shops too, but the employees will have to be well versed in what all of the in depth information that tool will supply really means. For example, you can watch the action of each sensor as it does its thing, pull a snap shot of when a code is set, and look at the operating parameters to see when the code set (some Corvette engines have not been warrantied due to that particular feature, as I understand). <P>Which gets to the other part of why that whole deal is overblown, in my opinion--the aftermarket or chain shops who are complaining probably do not have very many employees who FULLY understand what the scan tool might be telling them. If they don't have anyone really capable of doing emissions system repairs, then they don't need to be doing or trying to do those repairs. This is just common sense and also protects the customers. <P>After that shop puts on a bunch of aftermarket parts and the check engine light still comes on for the same reasons, your vehicle will still probably end up in the dealer's shop. It might cost a little more, but look at the time and other expense that would have been saved if that's where the vehicle ended up first.<P>For example, if the code for a malfunctioning EGR valve sets, they will replace the EGR valve without really noticing that the EGR passageways are clogged with excessive carbon deposits. Deposits due to dribbling fuel injectors or a leaking Central Point Injection unit, typically, or poor quality fuel. When the same code sets a while later, all of the easy money they made is gone as the second repair will be "no charge". In other words, these repair shops can easily get in over their heads with repairs they don't know how to do correctly and make their own problems later on all by themselves.<P>Then there was the Olds 88 that came into our shop with a Service Engine Soon light that kept setting an evap emissions code--although everything checked out fine. After about an hour or so of making sure things were as they should have been, the technician started to disassemble the inner front fender to check the cannister itself (as the paint texture on the fender indicated some repaint activity). The cannister was found to be cracked from a previous body shop repair, but the body shop did not replace it for some reason. It's these hidden situations that many fast service repair shops don't forsee taking up their valuable stall space. <P>The modern engine management computers are much more sophisticated than in prior times and will become more sophisticated in the future. Would you want someone with just first aid training doing heart surgery on you? That might be a little extreme, but there are some classes of repairs that need to be left to those qualified and trained to do them.<P>Now, although there are computers running things now, the same interactions of fuel and ignition still apply now as in the past. Each can act like the other in causing problems. Plus, a loose or malfunctioning gas cap can set a code too (from the evaporative emissions self checks).<P>On the surface, the media tried to make it another one of those "big guy vs. little guy" deals, but there is still nothing to prevent the little guy from doing anything they can afford to do. Plus, there is some wisdom in keeping people who don't know what they are doing from getting under your vehicle's hood--all in the name of consumer protections. In the mean time, the cheapest way out in the long run might be the more expensive in the short run.<P>As for owners still doing normal maintenance items that might be considered "tune up" items, you can still do that stuff with no problems -- unless you have problems with spark plugs in an aluminum head. The wires, cap, coil, filters, and other ignition items can still be replaced without dealership assistance. Some of the emissions items can be replaced too, for that matter, just as in the past. But, it's not 1970 any more, and the people who get very much deeper than that need to know what they are doing--for everyone's mutual benefit.<P>As for spark plugs, Loren, we sell AC-Delco platinum plugs all day long for $7.99 each (retail). I also discovered when I bought some Motorcraft Platinum plugs, for an Aerostar in our shop, from O'Reilly's (for about half that price) that these Motorcraft plugs only had ONE pad of platinum on them whereas the ACs had TWO--one on each side of the air gap. <P>It does pay to be an "informed shopper" in automotive issues just as in other aspects of business. Profits must be made to support business everywhere in the supply chain.<P>The argument about the car companies driving the smaller repair shops out of business has been around since the first computers appeared on cars in the later 1970s. My observation is that most of the independent repair shops closed due to their owner's retiring or becoming deceased, not from automotive repair issues. In other words, there are too few younger people desiring to get into the automotive repair business as there are easier ways to make a living in our computer age. The ones who do get into the business (who have grown up with computerized issues) and are well capitalized, tend to do well. <P>Sorry for the length, and maybe I'm a little biased after seeing all of the private shop and/or owner blunder fixes come into the dealership to be taken care of, but those are just some thoughts on that issue<P>NTX5467

Key thing here is to shut the hood for a while and walk away and go do something else. I suspect the "frenzy" level is still a little high, which can undermine things somewhat. Naturally, your own personal "oil pressure" is still a little high--and understandably so.<P>Many of the things you did NOT mention would indicate cracked heads or blocks. In any event, gasket issues would be the cheapest and easiest things to fix. The intake manifold gasket would be the first thing to come off anyway so that could dictate the place to start. Many of those gaskets have markings on them ("front", "top", etc.) that could be easily overlooked. <P>You know you've got an unpleasant task ahead of you, or at least one that you didn't expect or want. You're also not the first one that's had something like this happen to them. If you approach this affair as a "learning experience" instead of an unpleasant task, it will be better. Most every mechanic has some "war stories" of indiscretions they made some where at some time that were not funny at the time, but were later.<P>Or you can continue "beating yourself up" and open your checkbook at the repair shop. Paying them to do something you could have done.<P>The choice just depends on where your "head's at".<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

There are a couple of options here.<P>The first might be to loosen the manifolds and then retorque the center bolts in sequence by themselves. Then do the outer bolts in sequence. Hopefully, getting the center ones done first might work around the situation.<P>The second option would be to get the manifolds "surfaced" on what I call the "rotating rock surfacer". This is how many older machine shops surfaced cylinder heads when having a lathe was too expensive or "fancy". Take off just enough metal to get a uniform surface and no more.<P>At that point, you can reinstall the manifolds and tighten in the specified manner.<P>The variation of this would be to also put a black header gasket set or the exhaust manifold gaskets that would come in an engine overhaul gasket set between the manifold and the head. Many engines that did not use exhaust manifold gaskets from the factory would have those gaskets in the overhaul sets, or available separately, from the gasket suppliers.<P>Also, be sure to put the correct fasteners back on with the manifold. If there were flat washers under the bolt heads, use them. If there were not any, I strongly recommend you find some that are just barely larger than the bolt head while still having the correct inner diameter. Still follow the factory torque procedures.<P>Washers, you say?? Yes, washers. As the manifold and engine heat and cool, the manifold will see greater heat variations than will the cylinder head. I suspect you'll also discover the bolt holes are a little bigger than they need to be. If a bare bolt head digs into the manifold and restricts it's "movement" as during the heat/cool cycles, the manifold can crack. Plus, the flat washer will allow a better interface during the torqueing process.<P>Sometimes, you can be sneaky and coax things along with the alternate torque procedure I mentioned first, but surfacing the exhaust manifold is a reasonably common deal too, but can't be done more than about once before the manifold bolt flanges could get too thin.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

In recent history, with Chevy V-8s specifically, the pilot bearing that was used was the oilyte bronze bushing. When the 6.2L diesel V-8s came out, they had a roller bearing of the same size for a pilot bearing. That particular pilot bearing was the exact same dimensions as the previous pilot bushing. In later years, the pilot bearing has replaced the pilot bushing. That scenario would lead me to suspect that a pilot bearing would be a heavier duty situation than the bushing.<P>In the case of what you have, everytime the clutch comes out, the end of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing/bushing should probably receive a little grease on it for good measure, but we probably know how often that happens.<P>You could probably use a bronze bushing in place of the bearing if you desire and can find someone to make/adapt one for you. But it might be easier, cheaper, and more expeditious to just put the correct bearing in there (sufficiently lubed) and be done with it.<P>In some of the 1990s S-10 4cylinder applications, they use a larger "spacer" or "adapter" to hold the pilot bushing. Spacer goes into the hole in the end of the crank and then the bushing is installed into the spacer. Depending on the dimensions of what you need, starting with a spacer situation (as I have mentioned) and then finding a suitable bronze bushing might be quicker and cheaper than trying to get a machinist to start from scratch doing something he hasn't done before. Not to mention being cheaper too. I still favor putting the correct parts back in there though.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Greg made some very good comments.<P>I concur that you will probably find the tow limit to be 1000lbs as that's pretty much were most of the late model GM front wheel drive cars are rated. That would also indicate a Class I hitch (avaliable either with a bolt-on style flat metal hitch or a small shank hitch that takes a 1" square insertable shank and probably a 1 7/8" hitch ball.<P>As Greg mentioned, there are many factors which go into formulating the tow ratings. Engine power, transmission capacity and cooling, BRAKES, chassis tuning issues (soft vs firm vs Heavy Duty), and body structure (unit body or body-on-frame.<P>Along with the tow rating, there will also be a comparable tongue weight specification. Don't forget to make sure that the rear springs might need some assist from air struts (the later variation of air shocks) as the automatic level control equipped vehicles have on them. Got to keep the car level with the tow item attached to the hitch.<P>Everyone used to tow with cars--key word "used"--but with the increasing weights of what people desire to haul around these days, they probably need something on a "real", full size light truck chassis platform to handle things as they need to be handled in modern driving conditions.<P>Just some thoughts . . <BR>NTX5467

In the back of the Roster, there will be a listing, as mentioned, of each Buick model that year with the number produced also listed.<P>In earlier times, the model was listed by a two digit number (Model 75 would be the '58 Buick Limited series), sometimes followed by another letter or number to indicate "which" Model 75 Limited was being referred to.<P>You'll notice that in 1959, the models are now 4 digit numbers. These numbers decode as: 4419 = 4 is Buick Division, 4 is sales level (LeSabre in this case with higher model levels having higher numbers), 19 is the internal designation for 4 door sedan. In this case, it's a '59 LeSabre 4-door sedan. It could also be called a Series 4400 in some Buick literature.<P>Then, in the later 1960s, the 4 digit number became a 5 digit number. 4 still means Buick Division, the next two digits define the model series, and the last two digits still define the body style. In 1973, the second pair of digits became letter designations for the same things (i.e., model series) as the letters were the internal platform designation of the body series.<P>Beginning with the 1995 model list in the Roster, the first "4" is dropped from the model designation as that meant "Buick Division" anyway.<P>Being in the parts end of things at the dealership level, it was much easier for me to think of models in the later designations, for example a BL39 would always be a LeSabre 4-door hardtop regardless of which year it was produced in. Then, when we went to the computerized parts database, my strategy became more important and was adapted to something like "B76B" to get me to items for a 1976 Buick LeSabre--past that initial model loggin, then the body style became important.<P>Notice that engine size usually is not an issue with the basic model number. As model years advanced, engine size was usually tied to the various models. You might also notice that most of these model numbers also appear as part of the first section of the vehicle's VIN, especially in earlier times. There is a particular digit in the middle of the VIN for engine designation just as producing plant and year model.<P>Therefore, in your model listings, just the numeric or alphanumeric listings (minus the initial "4" in the 5 digit listings) are what's important for updating your vehicle information.<P>The GM model designation system is really pretty simple when you understand it and learn to think in those things, but in earlier times I never did understand the seemingly unique to Buick reason for calling models by a "series number" in the owner's manual instead of just calling them a "LeSabre" or whatever (something lay people could understand)--but that's just part of the uniqueness of dealing with Buicks.<P>Hope this helps and hasn't confused too much.<P>NTX5467