NTX5467

The manual I was looking at is the 1970 "Buick Chassis Service Manual". It has many "body shop" type items in it(graphics of the front end sheet metal and how to adjust/aligh it too). The GM "Body Manual" of those years was more involved with how to adjust door glass and those types of things and, for what I generally get into, not what I need. It also covers all makes and models instead of just Buicks or Chevrolets or whatever. Hence, it's more universality.<P>Those old GM chassis service manuals contained a whole lot of information regarding specs, theory of operation/design, and other great information that the modern manuals replace with trouble trees that end in "replace part" instead of telling people how to repair them. Different orientations for different times.<P>There are some vendors who also have these things on CD-rom media. I haven't personally used any of them, but they are supposed to have the service manual and parts manual and even some sales literature on the specific year of vehicle. I understand they might be a little pricey, but not when compared to finding good, useable manuals and sales lit. Otherwise, there are several literature vendors you might check with at swap meets or from ads in The Bugle.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

The front fenders are bolted on. You can see how they attach in a Buick Service Manual illustration and in the GM Parts Book illustration section. <P>In my '70 Buick Chassis Manual, it shows:<BR>1 bolt at the bottom of the A-pillar (seen with the door open), 1 vertical and 1 horizontal that go directly into the cowl (near the a/c blower motor), and 2 at the bottom rear horizontal section of the fender behind the wheel. Then there are two at the front where the upper rail of the radiator core support has a flange that mates with the upper fender using 2 bolts.<P>In removing the front fender, don't forget to take the hood hinge loose from the fender itself (supporting the hood or removing it entirely!).<P>Hope this might help get you started.<P>NTX5467

Seems like POR-15 has a good rust remover liquid/gel that seems to work reasonably well from the demos I've seen at the swap meets. Seems like there's another brand too. They might all be the same stuff, but it might take a chemist to determine that. They all typically neutralize with water.<P>The "carcinogenic" issues are related to the particulate size of the dust. I suspect the EPA stance on these things are somewhat overblown (all things considered), but that's probably where all of that dialogue originated. A blast cabinet really is the best way to do small work as it keeps things a lot cleaner and the media is easily recycled.<P>When we were doing the sandblasting activities a while back, we went to a commercial sandblaster locally and bought the sand. It might have been more expensive, but it was local and it was in grades.<P>Be sure to follow the sandblasting with a good metal prep that will get into all of the little craters in the "cleaned" part. If this is not done, the paint/primer will skin over and not penetrate well--result is poor adhesion and other issues. We sandblasted a vehicle, primed it, and within two weeks of dry summer weather, rust was popping through the primer. We took the "advice" of people who should have known and primed the bare metal without metal prepping it.<P>Since those days, there are all kinds of new blast media. Glass beads, aluminum oxide, soda, and even plastic. Just as with wetsanding a paint job, use the blast media to just take off what you're wanting removed and maybe even stop early so you don't remove too much of the base metal with your activities.<P>NTX5467

Thanks for that additional information.<P>NTX5467

There are lots of "ins and outs" with car covers. There are universals and custom fits. There are several fabric choices too.<P>You might contact Barney Eaton (of the Reatta Division) at "barney@texas.net" for information and pricing as he sells them. I suspect he can cut you a deal and also advise you on the fabric that would suit your use best.<P>I found that email address on a reatta.org link so if it doesn't work, email me back direct and I'll get his snail mail address for you, but I think that email is correct.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Last time I knew about sandblasting equipment, which has been a while, the sand came in "fine", "medium", and "coarse" grades just as regular sand paper did then. Similarly, you used the sand in a manner such that you used the coarse for the quick cut of heavy accumulations, then switched to the finer grades for finish work. Your instructions with the unit might have covered that strategy and should also indicate what media the existing spray tip/nozzle will work best with.<P>With respect to filter/respirators, the type the body shop painters used to be advised to use had two round filters in the front and acitivated charcoal in the filter mix also (looking somewhat like a WW2 "gas mask"). If the one you have is rated for "nuisance dust" you might see if there are any filters for it that will filter down to a smaller particulate size. Some of the automotive paint suppliers in your area might be able to help in that situation.<P>Hope that might help . . .<BR>NTX5467

I know that sand is a common blast media, but you might have better luck with glass beads or plastic. I suspect the glass beads or plastic might not be quite so critical to moisture as the sand can be and still work well. As always, make sure the gun head matches the type and size of the blast media.<P>What about using some of the liquid dip rust remover solutions instead of sand (provided they are compatible with the metals you are cleaning)?<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Once you do get it loosened up and removed, be sure to polish and deburr the shaft so the friction surfaces are nice and smooth and round. If you have a rebuilding kit, there probably would be a bushing to go into the manifold to serve as the friction interface for the heat riser shaft. <P>Once the new bushing is installed (which would apply to the existing bushing if you are just freeing things up), you might need to get an appropriately sized reamer to "clearance" the ID of the hole the shaft will be inserted into. This plus the polished shaft will ensure that there is no binding or excessive friction on the shaft so the thermostatic spring on the heat riser can work properly. It's better to be a little loose than to be too tight. From my experience, if you can't turn it with your fingers and the spring will snap it closed when cold, it's too tight.<P>During reassembly, after making sure the clearances are ok "dry", you might lubricate the shaft and bushing with GM Heat Riser Lube or similar (in a spray can) as it has a certain amount of graphite in it. It's also a penetrant.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Selling it back to the same salvage yard might be the best option. Naturally, they'll probably pay you less than you paid them (and hopefully come and get it). Even if they came and got it and paid you $1.00, you're still ahead in the game as you now have parts and will not worry about a municipality being on your case for a junk vehicle being around.<P>Even if it was the same salvage yard, they might want to see the purchase documents they gave you initially as proof that the "remains" do belong to you, so you might make some copies just in case. Then, they can also give you a receipt for the merchandise to keep their books straight too.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Hopefully, there should also be a contact listed in The Bugle on the page with all of the chapter directors and their respective chapters. I beleive the regional coordinators and such are also listed on that same page.<P>Hope you find a chapter to your liking.<P>NTX5467

I suspect the screws to hold the two case halves together might be normal 1/4-20 thread bolts. You might even chase down some some Allen head bolts for an incognito trick look, if you desire, as some replacement bolts have differing size hex heads for the same thread size. Be sure to get some narrow flat washers or lock washers to put under the bolt heads (if you lost them too).<P>Can you punch the pivot pin for the pump arm out and remove it that way or would that help?<P>I suspect that whatever metal peening you remove will have to be "repeened" when the new diaphram is installed, unless they have some other method of secure attachment.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

You did swap the computer calibration "chips" from the old ECM to the new one? I know that sounds very elementary, but one of our experienced customers did not do that so it can happen to even the "good" people.<P>Hopefully, you bought a GM ECM instead of an auto supply unit as if you do discover (at the dealership) that your current ECM is bad, GM will not accept the aftermarket reman ECM for the core on a GM unit. Just an advisory on that issue . . .<P>When the vehicle first had the problem, did y'all pull the diagnostic codes first before you started chunking parts at it? Just curious.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

You might check the front page of the BCA website. Look on the left hand column and you can probably find who ever you might desire to contact on that matter.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Keep in mind that in order for those brochures to be ready for distribution to the dealers in about September of the year, the vehicles had to have been photographed and the layouts finalized several months prior to that. That would mean they were using pre-production vehicles which might have some "differences" from what actually came down the assembly line. Similar with service manuals too. Hence, some of the air brush "mods" y'all have discovered--not to mention some ill-fitting or slightly different chrome trim. I suspect that if they could do some air brush work to decrease costs and expedite the process (with respect to chrome trim, emblems, etc. that might change on the next year's model which also used the same sheet metal as last year's model) it probably happened.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467 <P>Back in the '60s and thereabouts, I always liked to see pictures instead of drawings of the cars. That was when the Pontiac brochures were all "art drawings" by their famed duo of artists (one of which is still alive, I believe). Looking at them now, I have come to appreciate them for the great car art they are (but I still like the detail in the photographs).

Some great comments!<P>Many times, we look for "band aid" fixes for things (high flow pumps, lower temp thermostats, etc.) related to engine operating temperatures, yet the first thing that should happen is to make sure everything's "to spec" in all aspects of what you have. The core plug remove-and-clean operation is a very good idea for any vintage vehicle. The "wetter water" additives were originally designed for dirt track racers, I believe, which needed all of the help they could get in the cooling system area. Getting more of the water in contact with the inner surfaces can be of benefit in the heat transfer considerations, but if it might change the laminar flow characteristics, it could also cause more turbulance around the cylinders, which is not a good thing.<P>Personally, I'd stay away from cooling system flush products as they might cause more problems than they would help. They can remove the scale that has kept the ready to happen perforations sealed up on the core plugs, radiator areas, heater core areas, and applicable piping. Even if it doesn't leak with water in the system, it could well leak with the antifreeze in it. <P>I concur with the orientation that if they didn't have that many problems when new, a completely stock, refurbished system should work just as well now. The only modifications I might suggest would be some incognito seals to make sure all of the air went through the radiator and not around it.<BR>The other issue might include transmission fluid temperatures if it has an automatic transmission. Also make sure the oil pan is not covered in gunk as the oil carries heat away just as the coolant does.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

You might see if you can find some original Buick sales brochures (either "full line" or "Skylark only") that would cover the model you have. These sales brochures should have pictures of the available interiors, many options, and the specs on the vehicle in the back. Naturally, they'd probably have the GS models in them too so the price might be a little more than normal due to that.<P>Another source that might be more readily available (and available from the Barnes&Noble website at a discount) is the "Standard Catalog of Buick" that lists each year by itself with lots of fine print on options, standard equipment, specs, and production figures. There might even be a price guide (in effect at the time the book was printed) so you can get an idea of potential value.<P>I've got a '70 Skylark Custom 2-dr hardtop that is a basic 350 2bbl car. It's a nice driver and I have some 15x7 factory chrome wheels for it. Those, plus some appropriate tires (either P215/70R-15 whitewalls or P225/70R-15 Radial T/As) and heavy duty shocks and a sway bar upgrade will make it a nice driving car that gets good fuel economy and looks "nearly" like a GS while not looking like a GS clone or hot rod.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

If you've never welded before, you need to take a class at an area vocational school on that subject and learn to do it right.<P>There are all sorts of little things like "weld penetration" and "surface prep" and "gas flow" and "eye and body protection" that you need to be fully cognizant of before starting. That might delay your project, but it will also make the project better when finished.<P>NTX5467

The "drum brake valve", I suspect, is just a divider block with the switch to sense if one brake circuit looses fluid pressure, turn on the brake system warning light, and nothing more. The disc brake proportioning valves might also have that same switch, but they do limit pressure whereas the drum brake items don't and many times look different from the similar drum brake item.<P>From my own experience, disc brakes will have a little less solid pedal feel (especially with a vacuum booster compared to a hydroboost unit) than a pure drum brake system. <P>If you've power bled the system to no real improvement, they you might consider putting a vacuum on the master cylinder to get any small air bubbles that might be trapped out of the system. When the vehicles are on the assembly line, they pull a vacuum on the brake system and then add the fluid and similar with the coolant.<P>Otherwise, you might be flexing the pedal and overriding the master cylinder if you press hard enough.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

When those cars were new, when a timing chain was needed, no one typically wanted to pull the crankshaft sproket off so all that was changed was the camshaft sproket (which probably had some broken or missing nylon teeth) and a new timing chain was installed then too. Unless the crank sproket had a lot of wear, it was left alone.<P>You can debate if it's best to use "matched" items, but they all are supposed to be built to the same blueprints anyway--otherwise they would not work correctly. There might be some differences in the quality of the parts between the less expensive and the respected name brands, but for a stock motor I suspect most anything will work acceptably well.<P>Of course, you can always put a roller chain setup in there and not worry about it for a loooong time. I put a Cloyes Plus Roller set in my '77 Camaro at 92,000 and it now has 565,000 on the unrebuilt engine and same timing chain set. But when you do that upgrade, they are sold in a matched set and it does take all three pieces.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Thanks for the clarifications on the vacuum hose hookup.<P>I suspect the spring might be broken in the housing instead of just weak. If the vacuum advance has a big hex nut with the vacuum hookup on it, you can unscrew it to access the spring. I don't know that would solve getting it fixed, but it could be diagnosed that way, possibly. Otherwise, I suspect you'll need to get that situation repaired before you can get everything fully dialed in as it needs to be.<P>Thanks, <BR>NTX5467

There are two theories for having a crossover pipe in the first place (not counting the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold). One has to do with making the system quieter and the other has to do with "sharing" capacity between the two sides of the exhaust system.<P>Up until the 1970s, all Ford dual exhaust systems (from what I recall seeing) had a crossover pipe behind the transmission. Considering that Ford's standard pipe size for everything seemed to be 2" back then, the capacity sharing issue might have come into play as well as the quietness issue. Many of the Chrysler big block muscle cars also used crossover pipes whereas the normal dual exhaust cars didn't.<P>Then there is the Dr. Gas "X" crossover pipe that has been documented by the Pontiac guys to lower 1/4 mile ets by a tenth or two. Some NASCAR guys ran them too before they were discovered.<P>The Lincoln Motorsports website has some interesting information on how the X-crossover affects exhaust sound on the late model Marks when used individually or in tandem.<P>I think that if I was not concerned with complete factory originality, I'd have a dual system built with an appropriate crossover as I believe they can be beneficial for performance and quietness. Considering that many factory systems did not use them, it could be open for debate, but at the least it can be a tuning device to get the desired sound. Plus, they can always be added later.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

If you are desiring a pipe sizing other than what was stock, then you'll have to contact a vendor that does "aftermarket" exhaust things or get a reputable local shop to bend one up for you, matching the existing contours of what's under there or would have been under there with a dual system. Finding such a "reputable" shop that will do an OEM configuration pipe setup can be very tough and have many pitfalls, though.<P>From the way your post is worded, it sounds like you are wanting a bolt-on system as many of the GM and Chrysler muscle cars have available from them. I rather doubt there will be any available for your application.<P>As I recall, the pipe in front of the muffler is decently sized, but after the muffler it necks down somewhat. Therefore, it might be easier to find as much of the factory pipes from an OEM-type vendor (NAPA's line of Walker Exhaust parts, for example) and then put a higher performance (yet decently quiet) Walker DynoMax style muffler with larger outlet pipes and then get some rear pipes built locally. This will require some sniffing through the muffler specs in the back of the book, but should be a workable situation.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Some of these things are available from the reproduction people. I believe that Ssnake-Oyl Enterprises did advertise some of what you mention so I'd look there first. They also do seat belt restorations too. <A HREF="http://www.ssnake-oyl.com" TARGET=_blank>www.ssnake-oyl.com</A> <P>Dad's '69 Chevy pickup had similar "heavy tar-like" pads with some of the white thick foam sheet insulation on top to keep it from sticking to the carpet backing. You might find similar items in the Camaro/Firebird reproduction vendors too. I suspect if you went to a major car meet, you might find the Ssnake Oyl people or National Parts Depot to see if they have something you might be able to use. Unfortunately, their items will be configured to fit other vehicles, but you can probably put several of their sets together to work in your car. <P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Try unhooking the battery for a couple of minutes and then hook it back up. I think that'll clear the codes from the computer. Of course, you'll have to reset the clock and radio and maybe reprogram the keyless entry remotes. <P>Otherwise, the easiest way is with a scan tool and you can then check for other codes (other than for the sensors you replaced) which might be in the computer's memory.<P>NTX5467

The other alternative to rear axle fluid changes is to use a suction gun, just like the service station people used to use. Not all rear axles have removeable "inspection covers" so that's the only way to get the fluid out. An example would be the Chrysler 8 3/4 rear axle where the back surface is smooth with only a screw-in plug.<P>The B-O-P rear axles are completely different from the Chevy axles in all respects. There could be some applications where the whole assemblies will bolt into the same chassis, but the similarities end there. There could also be some unique items within the same axle family for certain years also.<P>With respect to Chevrolet rear axles, the number of cover bolts typically is indicative of the ring gear diameter, with the 10 bolt typically being the 8.5" ring gear diameter and the 12 bolt axles having larger ring gear diameters. Other GM axles should not be judged in the same manner, though, as the size and shape of the cover could vary with the same number of hold down bolts.<P>It could have been that the parts person "thought" all of those axles were the same so when they start asking "unusual" questions, it might mean there's some trouble in the parts database they are using or they've mistakenly keyed in for the wrong vehicle.<P>It might seem flaky, but taking the old part along could be good advice in some situations.<P>NTX5467<p>[ 07-25-2002: Message edited by: NTX5467 ]