NTX5467

The injection unit you speak of is the "Central Port Injection" unit that is one big injector feeding the six smaller injectors for each cylinder. From what we've seen, the main issue is them "dribbling" with time and age, causing the EGR system to clog up and malfunction. If you'd done that repair on your own, or had an independent shop do it, you would have paid labor BOTH times on that repair, even though the part obviously was parts warrantied the second time. So, even though a secondary issue caused the second failure, it was still cheaper to let the dealership do it.<P>The $700.00 (approx) for that part is still cheaper than the $150.00 (approx) each for fuel injectors on the port fuel injection motors. Similarly, most of these things are covered under the factory emissions system warranty or extended warranties so the out of pocket expense to the customer is minimal (if they bought the longer term extended warranty). <P>At the present time, my regular driver is my '77 Camaro that I bought new. Now, it's not the most pristine thing around, but I do keep it reasonably maintained myself. With 564,000 miles on the original 305, I suspect it's already outlasted many imports famous for their long term durability. Your experiences might vary. I also have some other American cars too, most with higher mileages and still in good condition.<P>If I need a newer car for an out of town or weekend trip, I head to National or Thrifty or Dollar for a rent car. That $100.00 for a weekend rental is cheaper than car payments. Plus, if something breaks, I call somebody, but no problems have been encountered yet.<P>I suspect that even a lowly oriental import will have no trouble running farther than 100,000 miles with no trouble. I remember, as you probably do, when cars were worn out at 80,000 miles. I thought I was doing good to get a Chevrolet engine to run 200,000 miles, but I'm well past that now. Engine repairs? I put a Cloyes Plus Roller timing chain set in it at 92,000 miles when I replaced the timing chain, upgraded from 2bbl to 4bbl, and slightly upgraded the cam.<P>The modern cars might lack the heavy metal of prior decades, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are "junk" or "throw aways". In some cases, we regularly see customers with 150,000+ miles on their late model GM cars. Probably for driveability issues, so we put new plugs, wires, and other ignition parts (which were still original in many cases) and things are fine again. And we do see a good deal of vehicles with fuel pump failures from not changing the fuel filters often enough.<P>The one area that many of the newer cars might be classed as "throw aways" is when they get seriously whacked in a wreck. All of that energy has to go somewhere so the basic body structure deforms. Less repairability in some instances (especially the smaller cars) when compared to something from the 1970s, for example, or more expensive repairability when it happens. Yet, I do know I'm safer in a later model car than in my more vintage ones. A later model car that gets better fuel economy with less required maintenance and markedly less exhaust emissions too.<P>I regret that you have such a low opinion of dealership service technicians. Granted, there are some good techs out in private shops who do a very good job for their customers. In fact, if you do have a private shop technician that is very good, you certainly need to take care of him as he's a vanishing breed. <P>One advantage those private shops have is that they can pick and choose their customers as they desire. They can also pick and choose the types of repairs they do. By doing things they are good at (maybe branching out in some cases to other areas) they keep their customers happy and build a loyal customer base and the profitability that comes from that. <P>At the dealership level, we have to be ready for anything. We are expected to "work miracles in an instant" sometimes too. If we make a customer mad, it could well be reflected in our CSI ratings with the manufacturer. As a result, we tend to get all of the other repair jobs the private shops or chain shops don't want to do--plus the repairs that owners tried to do and couldn't (loosing some of the parts in the process) complete for various reasons. It takes more money to support a dealership service department than it does a private repair shop too--hence, the higher labor rates and such. <P>In many cases, you still get what you pay for. If you look at the value you get from your private shop mechanic (who hopefully's been in business for a good while) at his labor rate versus what the dealership has to maintain as a matter of daily business at their higher labor rate (which is approved by GM as that what GM agrees to pay for warranty work), there is value in both places. The private shop can rely on AllData for their service information whereas the dealership has a direct line into GM Tech Assistance plus rooms full of current service manuals and other information via the Internet. In some cases, we have to use all of those resources too.<P>Key thing is that you are doing business where you are most comfortable, but at some time or another, a dealership experience can be the least expensive alternative in the long run.<P>Just some additional thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

The Painless Wiring operation grew out of the street rod hobby several years ago. All of the pieces are OEM Packard Electric items (or were back then) with more late model style fuse/relay/flasher items. In the years since that first start, Painless has expanded their operation and product line greatly. If you buy the kit from GMPerformance Parts, it's a Painless Wiring kit. I suspect that color codes are compatible with existing GM architecture too.<P>From what I gather, their kits are somewhat generic so you might have to do some cut and connect activities at the wire ends. But, to me, the best thing is the OEM Spec pieces as it has been observed that some of the repro wiring harnesses might not have the same quality of wire/insulation as the production items did.<P>Plus, I can drive to the Painless office in about 25 minutes. I know the owner and one of his development people. From what I've seen, they are quality people.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Geno, one thing I like to do with intake manifold gaskets is to get some high temp silicone, lay the individual gaskets on a flat surface, spread the silicone so that it lays in the embossed grooves in the gasket, smooth it out with a gasket scraper, and let it tack off before putting a thin coat of silicone on the other side too.<P>The thin silicone coating on each side will make it easier to clean up later if you have to pull things apart. The resultant bead of silicone in the embossed grooves will serve to make the older style gasket into the "Print-O-Seal" gasket that seals much better.<P>Your comments about using discretion in how much silicone sealer is used is accurate. Pressure and gasket compression are the main modes of sealing, the silicone is there for added durability and longevity of the seal. If you think of that bead of silicone doing the same thing as PlastiGage (when you check bearing clearances with it), it becomes clear that big blobs are not needed.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I can tell you that the media accounts of this are far overblown. <P>In the near past, GM did have some codes in their computers to keep generic scan tools from being able to read the data, but the dealers are supposed to reflash the computer -- for free -- on the affected vehicles. If a dealer refuses, just call the 1-800 customer assistance number and those people can get things straightened out with the service people.<P>As for some Mitsubishi engines, if the same engine is in a Chrysler, tell the scan tool it's hooked to a Chrysler and it will probably work. It seems that the import makes have used the apparent loopholes in the OBD II rules to keep generic tools from reading their codes.<P>I also guess that many people have forgotten that they can buy service manuals which have the codes. Then they just need the scanners to read them.<P>Now, what many people away from the dealership end of things seem to forget is that some codes do interact and can produce a false code situation. If you go to Jiffy Lube (for example) or AutoZone and they pull codes from your computer, replacing those particular parts doesn't necessarily mean the codes will not reset later--meaning you still have to know what causes a code to set rather than just starting to replace parts. Plus, after you pay that aftermarket repair shop to pull those codes (from what I understand, they will charge basically 1 dealership hour labor for that little deal), then take the list of suggested repairs to another repair shop or dealership, you will pay the diagnostic fee AGAIN as that technician will use his diagnostic tools to verify any suspected diagnosis situation before replacing any parts. So, that aftermarket repair shop just victimized you worse than any car dealer would have if you'd gone there first. I understand that AutoZone will do it for free, but they want to sell you the parts. <P>GM will sell their Tech2 diagnostic tools to the aftermarket repair shops too, but the employees will have to be well versed in what all of the in depth information that tool will supply really means. For example, you can watch the action of each sensor as it does its thing, pull a snap shot of when a code is set, and look at the operating parameters to see when the code set (some Corvette engines have not been warrantied due to that particular feature, as I understand). <P>Which gets to the other part of why that whole deal is overblown, in my opinion--the aftermarket or chain shops who are complaining probably do not have very many employees who FULLY understand what the scan tool might be telling them. If they don't have anyone really capable of doing emissions system repairs, then they don't need to be doing or trying to do those repairs. This is just common sense and also protects the customers. <P>After that shop puts on a bunch of aftermarket parts and the check engine light still comes on for the same reasons, your vehicle will still probably end up in the dealer's shop. It might cost a little more, but look at the time and other expense that would have been saved if that's where the vehicle ended up first.<P>For example, if the code for a malfunctioning EGR valve sets, they will replace the EGR valve without really noticing that the EGR passageways are clogged with excessive carbon deposits. Deposits due to dribbling fuel injectors or a leaking Central Point Injection unit, typically, or poor quality fuel. When the same code sets a while later, all of the easy money they made is gone as the second repair will be "no charge". In other words, these repair shops can easily get in over their heads with repairs they don't know how to do correctly and make their own problems later on all by themselves.<P>Then there was the Olds 88 that came into our shop with a Service Engine Soon light that kept setting an evap emissions code--although everything checked out fine. After about an hour or so of making sure things were as they should have been, the technician started to disassemble the inner front fender to check the cannister itself (as the paint texture on the fender indicated some repaint activity). The cannister was found to be cracked from a previous body shop repair, but the body shop did not replace it for some reason. It's these hidden situations that many fast service repair shops don't forsee taking up their valuable stall space. <P>The modern engine management computers are much more sophisticated than in prior times and will become more sophisticated in the future. Would you want someone with just first aid training doing heart surgery on you? That might be a little extreme, but there are some classes of repairs that need to be left to those qualified and trained to do them.<P>Now, although there are computers running things now, the same interactions of fuel and ignition still apply now as in the past. Each can act like the other in causing problems. Plus, a loose or malfunctioning gas cap can set a code too (from the evaporative emissions self checks).<P>On the surface, the media tried to make it another one of those "big guy vs. little guy" deals, but there is still nothing to prevent the little guy from doing anything they can afford to do. Plus, there is some wisdom in keeping people who don't know what they are doing from getting under your vehicle's hood--all in the name of consumer protections. In the mean time, the cheapest way out in the long run might be the more expensive in the short run.<P>As for owners still doing normal maintenance items that might be considered "tune up" items, you can still do that stuff with no problems -- unless you have problems with spark plugs in an aluminum head. The wires, cap, coil, filters, and other ignition items can still be replaced without dealership assistance. Some of the emissions items can be replaced too, for that matter, just as in the past. But, it's not 1970 any more, and the people who get very much deeper than that need to know what they are doing--for everyone's mutual benefit.<P>As for spark plugs, Loren, we sell AC-Delco platinum plugs all day long for $7.99 each (retail). I also discovered when I bought some Motorcraft Platinum plugs, for an Aerostar in our shop, from O'Reilly's (for about half that price) that these Motorcraft plugs only had ONE pad of platinum on them whereas the ACs had TWO--one on each side of the air gap. <P>It does pay to be an "informed shopper" in automotive issues just as in other aspects of business. Profits must be made to support business everywhere in the supply chain.<P>The argument about the car companies driving the smaller repair shops out of business has been around since the first computers appeared on cars in the later 1970s. My observation is that most of the independent repair shops closed due to their owner's retiring or becoming deceased, not from automotive repair issues. In other words, there are too few younger people desiring to get into the automotive repair business as there are easier ways to make a living in our computer age. The ones who do get into the business (who have grown up with computerized issues) and are well capitalized, tend to do well. <P>Sorry for the length, and maybe I'm a little biased after seeing all of the private shop and/or owner blunder fixes come into the dealership to be taken care of, but those are just some thoughts on that issue<P>NTX5467

Key thing here is to shut the hood for a while and walk away and go do something else. I suspect the "frenzy" level is still a little high, which can undermine things somewhat. Naturally, your own personal "oil pressure" is still a little high--and understandably so.<P>Many of the things you did NOT mention would indicate cracked heads or blocks. In any event, gasket issues would be the cheapest and easiest things to fix. The intake manifold gasket would be the first thing to come off anyway so that could dictate the place to start. Many of those gaskets have markings on them ("front", "top", etc.) that could be easily overlooked. <P>You know you've got an unpleasant task ahead of you, or at least one that you didn't expect or want. You're also not the first one that's had something like this happen to them. If you approach this affair as a "learning experience" instead of an unpleasant task, it will be better. Most every mechanic has some "war stories" of indiscretions they made some where at some time that were not funny at the time, but were later.<P>Or you can continue "beating yourself up" and open your checkbook at the repair shop. Paying them to do something you could have done.<P>The choice just depends on where your "head's at".<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

There are a couple of options here.<P>The first might be to loosen the manifolds and then retorque the center bolts in sequence by themselves. Then do the outer bolts in sequence. Hopefully, getting the center ones done first might work around the situation.<P>The second option would be to get the manifolds "surfaced" on what I call the "rotating rock surfacer". This is how many older machine shops surfaced cylinder heads when having a lathe was too expensive or "fancy". Take off just enough metal to get a uniform surface and no more.<P>At that point, you can reinstall the manifolds and tighten in the specified manner.<P>The variation of this would be to also put a black header gasket set or the exhaust manifold gaskets that would come in an engine overhaul gasket set between the manifold and the head. Many engines that did not use exhaust manifold gaskets from the factory would have those gaskets in the overhaul sets, or available separately, from the gasket suppliers.<P>Also, be sure to put the correct fasteners back on with the manifold. If there were flat washers under the bolt heads, use them. If there were not any, I strongly recommend you find some that are just barely larger than the bolt head while still having the correct inner diameter. Still follow the factory torque procedures.<P>Washers, you say?? Yes, washers. As the manifold and engine heat and cool, the manifold will see greater heat variations than will the cylinder head. I suspect you'll also discover the bolt holes are a little bigger than they need to be. If a bare bolt head digs into the manifold and restricts it's "movement" as during the heat/cool cycles, the manifold can crack. Plus, the flat washer will allow a better interface during the torqueing process.<P>Sometimes, you can be sneaky and coax things along with the alternate torque procedure I mentioned first, but surfacing the exhaust manifold is a reasonably common deal too, but can't be done more than about once before the manifold bolt flanges could get too thin.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

In recent history, with Chevy V-8s specifically, the pilot bearing that was used was the oilyte bronze bushing. When the 6.2L diesel V-8s came out, they had a roller bearing of the same size for a pilot bearing. That particular pilot bearing was the exact same dimensions as the previous pilot bushing. In later years, the pilot bearing has replaced the pilot bushing. That scenario would lead me to suspect that a pilot bearing would be a heavier duty situation than the bushing.<P>In the case of what you have, everytime the clutch comes out, the end of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing/bushing should probably receive a little grease on it for good measure, but we probably know how often that happens.<P>You could probably use a bronze bushing in place of the bearing if you desire and can find someone to make/adapt one for you. But it might be easier, cheaper, and more expeditious to just put the correct bearing in there (sufficiently lubed) and be done with it.<P>In some of the 1990s S-10 4cylinder applications, they use a larger "spacer" or "adapter" to hold the pilot bushing. Spacer goes into the hole in the end of the crank and then the bushing is installed into the spacer. Depending on the dimensions of what you need, starting with a spacer situation (as I have mentioned) and then finding a suitable bronze bushing might be quicker and cheaper than trying to get a machinist to start from scratch doing something he hasn't done before. Not to mention being cheaper too. I still favor putting the correct parts back in there though.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Greg made some very good comments.<P>I concur that you will probably find the tow limit to be 1000lbs as that's pretty much were most of the late model GM front wheel drive cars are rated. That would also indicate a Class I hitch (avaliable either with a bolt-on style flat metal hitch or a small shank hitch that takes a 1" square insertable shank and probably a 1 7/8" hitch ball.<P>As Greg mentioned, there are many factors which go into formulating the tow ratings. Engine power, transmission capacity and cooling, BRAKES, chassis tuning issues (soft vs firm vs Heavy Duty), and body structure (unit body or body-on-frame.<P>Along with the tow rating, there will also be a comparable tongue weight specification. Don't forget to make sure that the rear springs might need some assist from air struts (the later variation of air shocks) as the automatic level control equipped vehicles have on them. Got to keep the car level with the tow item attached to the hitch.<P>Everyone used to tow with cars--key word "used"--but with the increasing weights of what people desire to haul around these days, they probably need something on a "real", full size light truck chassis platform to handle things as they need to be handled in modern driving conditions.<P>Just some thoughts . . <BR>NTX5467

In the back of the Roster, there will be a listing, as mentioned, of each Buick model that year with the number produced also listed.<P>In earlier times, the model was listed by a two digit number (Model 75 would be the '58 Buick Limited series), sometimes followed by another letter or number to indicate "which" Model 75 Limited was being referred to.<P>You'll notice that in 1959, the models are now 4 digit numbers. These numbers decode as: 4419 = 4 is Buick Division, 4 is sales level (LeSabre in this case with higher model levels having higher numbers), 19 is the internal designation for 4 door sedan. In this case, it's a '59 LeSabre 4-door sedan. It could also be called a Series 4400 in some Buick literature.<P>Then, in the later 1960s, the 4 digit number became a 5 digit number. 4 still means Buick Division, the next two digits define the model series, and the last two digits still define the body style. In 1973, the second pair of digits became letter designations for the same things (i.e., model series) as the letters were the internal platform designation of the body series.<P>Beginning with the 1995 model list in the Roster, the first "4" is dropped from the model designation as that meant "Buick Division" anyway.<P>Being in the parts end of things at the dealership level, it was much easier for me to think of models in the later designations, for example a BL39 would always be a LeSabre 4-door hardtop regardless of which year it was produced in. Then, when we went to the computerized parts database, my strategy became more important and was adapted to something like "B76B" to get me to items for a 1976 Buick LeSabre--past that initial model loggin, then the body style became important.<P>Notice that engine size usually is not an issue with the basic model number. As model years advanced, engine size was usually tied to the various models. You might also notice that most of these model numbers also appear as part of the first section of the vehicle's VIN, especially in earlier times. There is a particular digit in the middle of the VIN for engine designation just as producing plant and year model.<P>Therefore, in your model listings, just the numeric or alphanumeric listings (minus the initial "4" in the 5 digit listings) are what's important for updating your vehicle information.<P>The GM model designation system is really pretty simple when you understand it and learn to think in those things, but in earlier times I never did understand the seemingly unique to Buick reason for calling models by a "series number" in the owner's manual instead of just calling them a "LeSabre" or whatever (something lay people could understand)--but that's just part of the uniqueness of dealing with Buicks.<P>Hope this helps and hasn't confused too much.<P>NTX5467

The other suggestions certainly have merit, but I wonder that possibly the catalytic converter might be having a restriction issue at that higher mileage. I believe there's a ball joint connection where the lead pipe joins the pipe just prior to the converter, so it would be easy to take things loose there and see if it makes any difference (with the car parked, of course!).<P>I concur with the comments on the Bosch spark plugs. I never did mind charging a customer full retail when they said the just put some Bosch Platinum plugs in and they wanted some new AC-Delco plugs back in their vehicle. Some of the newer Ultras have Nippondenso Platinums as the OEM spec plug--the replacement AC-Delco box even has the Nippondensos in them too. In any event, where ever you get the AC-Delco plugs from should also be able to get you a set of AC-Delco plug wires too (pre-terminated and ready to install).<P>The other things I can think of that might cause a problem (throttle position sensor, oxygen sensors, etc.) should all set a code in the computer.<P>One other thing might be the change of fuel mixes from cooler weather to warmer weather? Or maybe just a bad tank of gas?<P>In any event, getting the ignition issues sorted out and freshened up would be a good start. Plus running the mentioned pressure checks on the fuel system.<P>Sometimes, a deposit buildup in the throttle body can cause problems, but they are usually related to poor idle quality and lower idle speed. It probably would not hurt to use some carb cleaner on the throttle plates and make sure the Idle Air Control operatives are working as they should. 3M makes a "throttle plate cleaner" and I suspect you can find something similar over there.<P>Once everything's back to snuff, you'll enjoy that Buick again!<P>NTX5467

A non-restrictive (i.e.,. reasonably fresh) fuel filter is of extreme importance for several reasons. Not only does it let full pressure get to the pressure regulator on the injector rail, it also keeps the pump from drawing too much current (sometimes melting or discoloring the insulation on the wires which supply electricity to the pump on the sending unit itself). Usually, when the filter is restricted, the pump will have a louder whine that should be audible away from the vehicle.<P>Any time the pump is changed, a new fuel pump strainer should be installed--period.<P>Inside the tank, there should be a white plastic baffle that the pump will sit down into. This special plastic keeps fuel around the pump. Make sure that the locating dowels and retainers are tight and that it hasn't broken loose from the inside of the tank. If it's loose in there, but the locating dowels are still there, some appropriate push on retainers need to be replaced. Loose baffles were a problem with the '87 fuel injected Suburbans, which generated the necessary rust resistant flat washers and push on retainers to keep the baffle anchored.<P>Keeping the tank at least 1/4 full is a good orientation. The pump can generate a little heat and the fuel around it does serve as a heat sink, but that heat is less than the flash point of the fuel. The GM pumps are pretty durable at low fuel levels, but they will go away if they run too long with no fuel pumping through them.<P>When a customer comes in with a pretty new car with a fuel pump problem (i.e., died on the road or extended crank time), they will usually admit to running out of gas recently. If they come back again in about 10,000 miles or so with the same issue, it was probably due to a lack of fuel issue again.<P>Always put a new inline fuel filter with a new pump. The failed pump could have put some trash in the lines (which might be partially clogging the old filter).<P>Prior to pulling the tank down, put a meter on the fuel rail and check the fuel pressure. It should come up immediately when the pump is powered up. If, during crank mode, it starts low and builds to the minimum pressure for the engine to run, it's a pump issue. Doing these diagnostics prior to pulling the tank down might be advisable as you'll then know where things are.<P>When those LeSabres were new, there were some fuel pump noise issues that were addressed with a couple of service bulletins. Usually, a "pulsator" or "damper" was put inline on the pump output side just before the pressure line joined the tubing in the sending unit. I don't recall the pulsators ever causing a problem, but at this point in time it could be a possibility. Seems like they were later added in regular production or some other change was made so they weren't needed.<P>My recommendation would be to run the pressure checks and see where things are. Then, put a new fuel filter on an see if things change (pressure or fuel pump noise). You might also backflush the filter to see what might have been in it. Plus, check the voltage at the connector to the fuel tank sending unit to see if it's where it needs to be.<P>For some reasons, the new "reformulated" fuel can clog the inline filters. Therefore, we recommend filter changes at about 30,000 miles (even though there might not be a recommendation in the owner's manual for such).<P>One other word of caution . . . have the tank as near empty as you can before you drop it down from the bottom of the car. Gas weighs about 6 lbs per gallon by itself, not counting the tank and sending unit. It would also be advisable to have the car on a lift with a transmission-style jack to support the tank as you lower it.<P>It might also be possible to access the sending unit/pump by removing an access panel in the floorpan (in the trunk area, under the mat). Some of the later ones are this way and it makes things much easier.<P>Perhaps it would cost more, but I believe that if you have the fuel pump replaced at a Buick or GM dealer, the pump will carry a limited lifetime replacement warranty as long as you own the car. If they install it, I believe it's "parts and labor" but if it's an over the counter sale, it's for parts only. That's the most expensive way to do that deal, but with proper documentation, it should be the last time you have to pay for that repair . . . I'd recommend you check out that option!<P>Plus, if there are some other issues causing the failures (vehicle-related), they'd probably find them too, plus having the diagnostic tools to check the necessary things too.<P>Back then, we had many more problems with the mass air flow sensors than we did with fuel pumps. The car would die out or start running poorly, all of a sudden, but if you tapped on the sensor, it could run fine again. Another reason to have good diagnostics for the problem as you can chunk lots of parts at these newer vehicles and not fix anything.<P>Other things to check for would include the oil pressure sending unit (which tells the ECM to power up the fuel pump when oil pressure is present outside of the crank mode). There might also be a fuel pump relay in the circuit. Have you checked the fuel pump fuse?<P>Thanks for reading through this with me.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467<p>[ 06-27-2002: Message edited by: NTX5467 ]

Hopefully, you put some camshaft lube on the lobes of the camshaft to help the lifters break in, even if it was the existing cam. Also, it's advisable to "prelube" the lifters (in a pan of oil to compress their plungers to force the air out of them) before they go in the motor. Then prior to start up, using an electric drill motor to prime the oil pump and put pressurized oil into the various galleys and passageways in the block. If, per chance, some air got trapped in the lifter galleys, it could well take a while go get out. Some engines are more critical on that than others.<P>For example, it used to be a problem to have noisy lifters just after an oil change on 454 Chevies (early '70s time frame). The fix was to use front galley plugs for the lifter galleys with a .040" hole in them to let the air escape when the engine was restarted.<P>Has someone put a manual oil pressure gauge in the engine to see where the oil pressure actually is or isn't? You can temporarily screw it into the same hole as the oil pressure sending unit goes (possibly having to short across the sending unit so the electric fuel pump might run).<P>All of these items are pretty generic recommendations. Knowing which engine it is might provide some more specific recommendations.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

In the earlier times, at least in the world of BowTies, the starter main housing could be either "long" or "regular". The "long" one was due to more windings and a resultant higher torque capacity unit for bigger motors and such. It's been the prefered unit, as a result until the later gear drive starters came online.<P>Also, the aluminum end housing was shaped to clear the particular bell housing of the transmission attached to the engine. There were probably a dozen or so end housings for Chevrolets alone! Now, they've finally configured the end housing to fit everything.<P>The architecture of your end housing is what spaces the starter out from the flywheel plus clears the bell housing area of the transmission correctly. Two end housings can look similar, even with the same bolt hole pattern, and still have different build heights (which determine how the starter drive gear meshes with the flywheel). Typically, at least on later Chevy motors, the different diameter flywheels required different starter end housings, but usually of different bolt patterns (i.e., straight or offset). Similarly, there are starter shims available for these Chevy starters to correctly space the end housing so the starter drive meshes correctly with the flywheel ring gear.<P>According to a Chevy service manual I found a while back, with the starter drive gear "engaged", there should be about .040" clearance between the deepest part of the ring gear and the deepest penetration of the starter drive gear. It might be that you need to space the starter out from the flywheel before you get a new flywheel and have similar issues again. The starter might also turn faster without having to fight the flywheel quite so much.<P>When you go to the auto supply or dealer to get a reman starter, you always have the option of taking the core back later instead of handing it over at the point of first sale. This way, you can take the "new" starter home and swap the end housings before you install it. It might also be a good idea to put a new drive end bushing in (and lube it too) your existing end housing too. End result, you will have a starter with new guts working in conjunction with your drive end housing of known quantity and architecture/clearances. Then, when you're done, take the core back for core credit -- if you don't keep it to be rebuilt by a known good rebuilder later on. <P>In prior times, it was nothing to put new brushes and bushings in the starter, dress the armature, change the solenoid, and put it back on the car. Not too hard to do either! Those parts are still around, but aren't as common as they used to be as the orientation now is to do exchanges instead of repairs. After all, all you're doing is replacing the worn parts and everything else should be good as it was working beforehand. But times have changed . . .<P>I don't know how many starter drive end housing variations there might be for Buicks engines, but suspect there are less than the multitude for earlier Chevrolets. I would trust an AC-Delco reman starter to have the correct end housing more than I would from some other rebuilder/reman facility where they dump everything in a vat and such. Even so, a friend that used to have a large repair shop said he never used the starter end housing on the replacement starter (even the preferred AC-Delco units), he always swapped them out with the existing starter that came on the car--greatly reduced the problems later, which came out of his pocket.<P>I suspect you can find a replacement flywheel from the auto supply sources or transmission shops at a decent price. Just make sure it matches the old one in all respects.<P>I don't know what sort of time frame transpired between the time you purchased the reman starter and your request to retreive your old one, but the retreival should have been a doable deal as I rather doubt they ship the cores out daily or even weekly. The only thing would have been to firmly know which one was yours. In one respect, if you paid the core charge, they should have given you the chance to find the one you thought was yours (provided you knew which one it was), but most don't desire to deal with that. I do know that many of the main auto supplies put tracking stickers on the core boxes so they know what they are and where they came from (and how many might "get lost" somewhere). <P>Many auto supplies and all GM dealers require the core be returned in the box the new part came in or there is no core credit issued as they can't get their money if the part is not boxed.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

One neat thing about the GM800 power steering gearbox is the large variety of gear ratios available for them. From slower "straight" ratios, to fast (2 turns lock to lock) "straight" ratios, to the variable ratios of the later 1960s. You might find some reman facility that can put the faster ratio in your gear box. Adding a smaller factory steering wheel can help the overall effect too.<P>Adding the sway bars and upgraded shocks should help a bunch. I haven't used KYBs yet, but got hooked on KONIs a good while back and like their combination of ride and handling, plus the adjustability factor. It sounds like you're headed in the right direction, though.<P>NTX5467

Eibach (made in Eibach, Germany) springs are a quality product. They are more high performance oriented and will typically lower the ride height about an inch or so. They are typically progressive in their windings (some coils are closer together than others) for a smooth ride that stiffens up with greater deflection. They typically are a major buzz word brand just as Baer Brakes and Flowmaster Mufflers, which can be good and bad.<P>To me, the main issue would be the lowered ride height -- and what that will do to ground clearance with the chassis and exhaust system (including the rear of the pipes!). What might look "cool" or "kewl" could not be easy to live with in real life if you have to compromise where and how you drive just for "the look". I'd rather have suspension travel so the springs and shocks can do their things as designed (without bottoming out), yet upgrade shocks and sway bars instead of changing springs, unless they are sagged and need to be changed, but I'd find some factory replacements for the upgrade suspension package, probably.<P>There are some advantages with lowered ride height and the similar lowering of the vehicle's center of gravity, but upgrading the sway bars and shocks can accomplish pretty much the same thing with less expense and effort--unless you're going to be in some road race class racing activities where an altered ride height is acceptable and needed.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

Chevrolet has used some push in rubber plugs instead of screw in caps for their oil "add" holes in valve covers. Seems like the first ones were in the early '70s on the small blocks and they have been updated (in graphics and such) over the years. I don't know if that will match the hole diameter you need for your Buick motor though. <P>Seems like the more current applications would be the G-vans which need an extension from the valve cover to the front of the engine so you can add oil with the hood up.<P>The rubber stopper deal sounds interesting, but there might be different rubber compounds that would react differently with engine heat and exposure to engine oil.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

There is a "grease" that GM has been using in production for quite some time. Many of the replacement sockets are packed with it in them. Many of the bulbs that are removed (for whatever reason) within a few years of production (in recent history) typically have it. It appears to be a thick, lithium-type grease that is yellowish/brownish in color.<P>I initially suspected it had something to do with corrosion resistance (as we usually saw it on rear sockets and bulbs) but later determined that it could well be there to aid in heat transfer to the socket and its mounting area. This way, the heat the bulb produces is spread more evenly instead of being concentrated with the locating pins and contacts. As the mounting areas and sockets become lighter in weight and construction, the heat transfer issue could be more of an issue than in the past when sockets and such were more substantial.<P>For some reason, we're not seeing it being used as much now as it was in the '80s and '90s. I have seen the "bulb lube" at the store, but I suspect it's more along the lines of the thick, dielectric silicone that goes inside the spark plug boots. <P>You can also use the dielectric silicone to coat anything rubber that might squeak (i.e., hood bumpers, weatherstrip) in addition to its original spark plug wire uses. It's thick-bodied, opaquely clear, and a little bit goes a long way. Motorcraft was one of the first sellers in the later 1970s and others now sell it in smaller amounts.<P>Whatever "goo" you found could be something that someone read about in some "tips" or something. Might not hurt to clean the socket out and "relube" it?<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Correct, there is NO difference in the 5.7L LT1 enigne that came in the Roadmaster, Cadillac, or Chevrolet Impala SS. Same camshaft, same heads, same compression ratio, same dual exhuast, same horsepower.<P>The main difference was in the chassis components, as the Roadmaster did not have rear disc brakes. Also, what gave the Impala SS it's higher top speed was the lack of a top speed fuel shutoff in the computer plus the fact that torque converter would also stay locked up at WOT (just as Corvettes and Z28s did, as they also had speed V or higher speed rated tires).<BR>If you notice how the left hand exhaust lead pipe is shaped coming from the left hand exhaust manifold, that particular LT1 engine application now uses a PF52 oil filter instead of the "normal" PF35 or PF 1218 AC oil filter. To accomplish this deal, there is an alloy mounting "plug" that goes into the block as the earlier filter mounting "adapter" did, except it rotates the filter toward the side of the engine block for greater exhaust pipe clearance and is configured for the smaller diameter PF52 filter. This neat little item could well come in handy in street rod applications of any Chevy small block engine. If vertical clearance is also an issue, the shorter PF47 could be substituted for the PF52.<P>All of the chassis sway bars and springs would bolt right into a Roadmaster and Cadillac as they do on the Impala SS--sedan models only. Same with the rear disc brake setup.<P>The performance chassis setup on the Roadmaster was the "trailer package". Same components as the upgrade suspension on the regular Caprice, but not the same items as the SS had.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

Steve's got some good recommendations. <P>Another thing would be to get some gear marking compound (still available from GM) to check the actual pattern on the ring gear. Those procedures are covered in most any factory service manual and can be performed without any special equipment (other than a brush to apply the compound).<P>Basically, I concur that if it's not making any noises or whines or clunks, a fluid change might be all it needs.<P>Usually, a 171,000 or 271,000 mile car will have other tell tale signs of the higher mileage.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

It could be "old" rubber that has become brittle and will not handle the stretch anymore. Consider, most of those mounts were probably made many years ago and have been sitting in some warehouse since then, maybe not the same type of aging as if they'd been on a car, but they still aren't very new either.<P>You can probably find some mounts made with polyurethane, which might be a better alternative than solid mounts, but still not a good alternative to me.<P>If you can find some of the factory fix restraint kits (like they had for the Chevies back then) or get something of that nature made, it would be a better alternative. If you're pulling the rubber mounts apart, instead of the rubber breaking it will transfer those stresses to the exterior of the engine block casting. Many dirt track motors running solid side mounts tend to break the block in that area for just that reason.<P>The more solidity there are in the engine mountings, the more vibration will also be transfered to the chassis and car body. This is a main reason I'd stay with rubber mounts and put the restraint cables on them.<P>What would be the possibilities of upgrading the mounts to the later models that had internal travel limiters in them? Or even modify the mountings to use the upgraded Chevy mounts? I suspect these might be the best choices in the long run, plus getting a mount that is regularly available with fresher rubber in it.<P>NTX5467

I believe the 3.42 was the "performance" ratio for the Riviera during that time frame. I think that'd be as far as I'd go as the 3.73 and 3.90 (moreso) would put high cruise rpm higher than what would be comfortable and reasonably economical. You could get 3.91 and lower gears in the Skylarks back then, but those particular models did not have highway crusing as a priority, obviously.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

I suspect there might be a circuit breaker in that circuit that could be kicking out with excessive electrical draws. The GM window motors are usually pretty reliable on those earlier vehicles, but the linkage could need some new lubricant on the tracks and slides inside the door or might be binding for some reason. The motors have no user-serviceable parts from GM and are sealed.<P>There also might be some plastic retainer clips which keep the glass straight in the run channel as the window goes up and down. If they come apart, it can let the glass cock and would put more strain on the motor. Usually, there's one at the top corner and on the front "short side" corner. You might not know they are there, but they are usually hidden from plain sight.<P>I think I'd pop the door trim panels off and put some fresh lube on the tracks and slides, plus check for the glass retainers I mentioned. That might be all that's needed and is certainly cheaper than new window motors.<P>With the door panels off, if you've got a good electic meter, you might make sure you've got full battery voltage to the motors. If not, you can trace the wiring to the door switches and such until you get the full battery voltage. Might be a high resistance in the simple contact switches too. <P>These are the main things I can think of that might be common between the two vehicles.<P>NTX5467

I don't fully understand your terminology "shorting the battery". <P>If you are having a situation where the battery is continually running down (i.e., loosing charge), there is a reason for that but it will possibly take someone different than a regular mechanic to find it. It could be something as simple as a chime module that is internally bleeding voltage to ground over a period of time, a dome light switch with chaffed wiring insulation, or it could be a problem inside the Electronic Control Module for the engine that is bleeding voltage to ground. Most general mechanics are not equipped to check for these things nor probably desire to take the time as it can be very time consuming.<P>Find an electrical shop or a GM dealership that has the sensitive electrical equipment to check for "parasitic draw" on the battery. Their equipment will record the minute voltages that are still working after the engine is shut off and the car is left sitting there. In this case, it could well be a larger voltage draw.<P>Does the vehicle have an aftermarket alarm system? Many times, faulty installations can cause havoc with otherwise good vehicles and their electrical systems.<P>If it takes like two weeks for the battery to go down, it's probably something small. If it takes like a day or two, it could be something like a dome light that is staying on.<P>While you're having electrical system tests run, also make sure to get a full charging system test done. Using the better equipment that a GM dealer should have doesn't take very long, but can be more accurate than what a private shop or auto supply might have in many cases.<P>Also, be advised that a dead or very weak battery can also cause the alternator to prematurely fail--especially on the newer vehicles--but not necessarily on your more vintage vehicle. Make sure that the cooling holes on the rear of the alternator are not blocked or obstructed with heater hoses or such. Blocking those cooling holes will cause the internal voltage regulator to overheat and the alternator will not produce the amps and volts it normally would, running the battery down as the vehicle runs as the engine will be running strictly off of battery power. In some cases, there is a plastic duct that should be attached to the back of the alternator to assist the cooling, but I don't recall your particular vehicle having one. As the alternator's been changed recently, it might be good to check this normally overlooked detail.<P>Usually, when a battery "shorts", it means that the plates inside the battery are touching each other and "internally shorting out". This is an internal failure mode for the battery itself, but such failures are very rare these days in cars. That's why I question your terminology here as opposed to "something causing the battery to run down."<P>Hope this helps . . .<BR>NTX5467

Sounds like there might have been some negotiations to settle the suits and only pay a percentage of the individual claims (dollar wise). Might have also been some "depreciation" issues just as the insurance adjuster depreciates the value of the 5 year old roof when they figure how much they are going to pay against a new one.<P>If you are so moved, I would think there should be a payment schedule that members of the class action should be able to get and/or should have been furnished prior to the settlement. As long as you empower a third party (who's working on a percentage deal anyway) to handle the negotiations, you sometimes have to live with the results whether you like them or not.<P>In some cases, it seems like a "bluff" of sorts as how much will you spend on litigation to get the other $680.00 (approximate) that you weren't paid.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

The Great Race 2002 started this morning, the 15th. You can check out the race route this year on the Great Race website (www.greatrace.com I believe) plus a list of entrants, their cars, and sponsors. A LOT of Fords and I counted 12 Buicks out of 128 entrants. Of particular interest might be what appears to be the entries of Coker Tire with 3 1937 Buicks.<P>The website also lists the route and where events will be held along the route.<P>Check it out . . .<BR>NTX5467