NTX5467

As I recall, "everthing" goes through the touch screen--heat and a/c climate controls, radio, engine gauges, and diagnostics--really quite neat. If the touch screen is just basically the "control head", then there will be another "box" that is the "guts and amplifier" for the radio somewhere under the instrument panel, I suspect. That's where the antenna lead-in will be plugged into, not the touch screen itself (it is a fancy CRT just like a television tube, basically, that relies on other circuitry to make it work, just like a more modern touch screen computer setup). You might head down to your local GM dealership and ask them to pull up a picture of the sound system for your car on their computerized GM Parts database. It should, hopefully, detail the radio system on the car. You might also trace the antenna lead-in and check it for degradation or possible water seepage into the coax from any cable joints (as the initial cable from the antenna itself that plugs into the rest of the coax going to the radio box). There might also be an illustration of the power antenna and the related coax lead-in cables between the antenna and the radio box too. The problem could be an age issue with the antenna itself too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Those torsion bars for the deck lid usually don't break, hence no need for the repro people to have them. They are basically "salvage yard" items. In those earlier times, they were probably more "universal fit" than might be expected--probably why there are three or so slots for "adjustment" of the spring tension preload. Key thing would be their length and diameter, plus the length of the lever arm (where they go into the slots). Request the salvage yard people to consult their Hollander Interchange Manual to see what other years and models of vehicles might be suitable donors for these parts. Maybe even dedicated "right" and "left" items too? If you find a suitable donor vehicle, be sure to check the rods you get for rust and/or cracking. Rust will degrade the surface and cracks can contribute to that. Prior to repainting them, be sure to clean the surface and probably lightly sand it with some fine grit abrasive to get it cleaned up for inspection prior to the painting operations. Using some brake clean (or some other non-oily evaporating solvent) to possibly show up minor cracks and such might be a good idea during the cleaning phase too. Don't forget to put the rubber sleeves on them too, where they might rub together. As you probably know, there is quite a bit of tension in those torsion bars and getting them installed can be an "experience". Enjoy! NTX5467

Wicking ability has no real bearing on whether the oil is synthetic or not. Case in point, several years ago a friend put Castrol GTX in his engine and then comnplained about the oil leaks. When he got through cussing the Castrol, he went back to Pennzoil and the leaks stopped. Having used Castrol in all of my engines, all of which were in used cars, I knew that it did not leak out any worse than other oils did. I asked my machine shop associate about that. His comment was that the Castrol was getting into places that the Pennzoil was not, hence the Castrol "found" the gaskets/seals that were prone to leak--wicking ability--whereas the Pennzoil did not. I concur, modern oils are much better than the were even 10 years ago. The specs keep getting tougher and the designation letters keep getting deeper into the alphabet. Lots of foreign manufacturer requirements too--not to mention "turbo" compatibility. Synthetic oils can offer longer life than non-synthetic oils, but you didn't hear those longevity claims in the earlier days of synthetic oil advertising. My machine shop associate did mention a Chevy small block that a customer brought in for a rebuild. 100,000+ miles on Amsoil with 3000 mile changes and it still had good hone marks on the cylinder walls. Back then, it was more about extended change intervals than 300K mile engines. Yet the manufacturers never did "bite" for the extended change intervals the synthetics claimed they could do (but with THEIR different synthetic-rated oil filter, which looked like it was more old rags than filter media). So, if you wanted you engine covered by the factory warranty, you had to use the petroleum-based oil change intervals. Other than wear issues, one main area in the synthetic portfolio is decreased power consumption and better flow at all temperatures. In modern times, this can relate to more power at the flywheel and better EPA economy numbers. Plus, if you have a $50K Corvette or Cadillac, you can afford the extra money for "spec" synthetic oil. At one point in time, even Valvoline did not recommend their synthetic oil in pre-'85 (or thereabouts) engines. Why? Seal compatibility, most probably. In reality, the oil's viscosity has little to do with engine longevity. Multi-weights might flow sooner upon startup, but that little issue is not going to wear an engine out in 60,000 miles--period. It didn't do that even in the 1970s! It's more about maintenance for the way the vehicle's driven. In a modern engine, getting the oil flowing as soon and as easily as possible helps get the engine through the emissions-critical start-up period a little quicker so the computer can go into feedback mode sooner for ultimately decreased emissions AND better fuel economy. That's been the driving force behind multi-weights and synthetics more than getting an engine to last 300K+ miles. We've had many engines come through our shop with over 200K miles and they've used nothing but normal 10W30 oil in them, but with quality oil filters. I highly suspect the reason that Royal Purple is the current vendor for the military contracts mentioned has more to do with price than anything else. The Government, Ford, GM, or whoever sets the specs and then puts those specs out for bids. You know the rest of the story . . . Not to say that Royal Purple is not a good product, but it's probably more about efficient use of the taxpayer's money. Might even be part of some bid strategy to use local area vendors too. As for the rope seal seep, I concur that trying blended synthetic oil might be a good move for diagnostic purposes. Even going back to basic oil might be the next step. But do NOT think that using petroleum oil will keep you engine from cratering before 100K miles as, after putting over 350K miles with only petroleum oil (20W50), with decent maintenance, it's more about maintenance than the viscosity of the oil--from my observations--so long as the vistosity is not too high for the application. Remember when 50W racing motor oil was common? Reason you don't see that any more is that it was determined that it took more power to run the oil pump with that weight of oil in the engine--unless it was a race motor that had lots of fuel dilution that needed to start at 50W to keep the motor alive. Remember in the 1960s? An engine that had 100K on it was "worn out". Wasn't because specifically of petroleum oils, it was the quality of the oils and the related oil filters. Since that time, both have improved markedly! Even the totally worst oil today is probably better than the best oil of the early 1960s. And then there's the additive package that makes up the oil. All kinds of friction modifiers that can be in there too--petroleum or synthetic. In reality, use the best oil you can afford AND works with your engine combination. Then, use a quality oil filter of at least OEM spec quality, but beware of those "premium" filters that have been sold. Lots more cost for little benefit. Even the basic ACDelco Duraguard filter is better than ACDelco filters were in the 1990s, with respect to smaller micron ratings. Then, determine which viscosity rating meets the factory specs and the way you use the engine, but usually 10W30 or 10W40 can be the best compromise. Even 30 weight oil can be the best oil in some applications, temperature ranges, and engines. The fact that modern manufacturers might not recommend straight weight 30 motor oil has more to do with getting their engines past emissions and fuel economy tests. What they use as the "spec oil" in those test/certification engines has to be what they recommend the customer use in their vehicles. GM's declining to recommend 20W50 oil came in the later '70s or early '80s. The service bulletin mentioned "viscosity improver buildup behind the oil rings" as the reason. Loss of oil control could mean increased emissions, typically. I knew that wasn't happening in my car, but the Pennzoil rep said that GM tested all oils and they found a few that did cause that problem, hence the declining to recommend that viscosity of oil. In reality, it could have had something to do with fuel economy ratings too (more power to run the oil pump = more fuel used to do it). Many side issues! Just some thoughts, NTX5467

From what I recall, the basic specs on those engines did not change significantly, if at all, in those particular years. If you take that power increase and factor it by .85, that's the "real" extra power that's getting to the ground. You can play those numbers all you like, but unless you're an advertising junkie or a non-bracket drag racer, those few extra horses or lbs-ft of torque might not ever be noticed. What makes "street performance" is responsiveness more than power at 4000rpm. Therefore, if there were any changes, they might well have come from more refined engine management electronics as things became a little more fine-tuned with time or a more effective catalytic converter. The Chevy 3.1L V-6 is a good running motor, generally, but is limited in performance by the intake manifolding and exhaust manifolding on the engine. It's all tuned to be working together and changing any one thing will not be worth the expense for the benefits received, typically. For any performance "mods" and such, check out the Pontiac Grand Prix (W-car) websites plus RegalGS.org. Maybe even GMHighTechPerformance magazine, a bi-monthly publication. Just remember that if you free up the exhaust, for example, you'll find the bottlenecks upstream of that area and will then need to made compensatory changes there to fully realize the possible benefits of the exhaust. One thing leads to another, as they say. If you really want a neat 60 degree Chevy V-6, the first major "freshening" of the engine is under the hood of the 2004 Malibus in the form of the Vortec 3.5L V-6. It makes 200 horsepower and better torque than before, but does it much more fuel efficiently. It'll run circles around even the current 3.4L V-6 and get at least 10% better fuel economy in the process. I rented one of those cars last week and saw 36+mpg at highway speeds with the cruise control used. Neat car! Burns rubber, turns corners, stops, and still gets better fuel economy than many imported 4 cylinders! Maybe it's time to trade up??? A 3.9L version will be in the new Pontiac G6 too. Don't even think about swapping one of those engines into your Century either! Much too involved and complicated. Not to mention emissions rules too!!! Just some thoughts, NTX5467

It might be that the wiring connectors will be the same for both columns, as was discovered when a friend was prepping a '72 Monte Carlo column for installation in his '55 Chevy Nomad--even the same color codes, but with different connectors in that situation. One thing to take note of is where the dimmer switch is or is not on each column. Seems like the LeSabre column will be on the turn signal lever and the other one will be on the floor. Then there's the wiper switch wiring too! If the column being replaced has what I call the "Tilt-A-Way" or "Thunerbird Syndrome", due to looseness in the column due to the looseness of certain bolts or the failure or a related pot metal casting, then that's repairable by people who know how to repair those things. Typically, it requires disassembly of the column below the tilt joint, so you HAVE to know what you're doing with that repair. If the long bolts below that are loose, they can be retorqued. If the related pot metal casting has cracked, then it will need to be replaced. When the steering wheel is allowed to pop up against the "bump stop" (the upper part of that pot metal casting), it eventually will crack from the force as it is somewhat thin in that area. On those castings, GM had a multitude of them for particular applications, but there can be more interchanges with them than the GM part number proliferation might suggest. Might even be somebody that advertises in your local paper that has a repair service to repair those columns too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I would suggest that anyone who is going to do a "totally correct" restoration have an assembly manual for their car, or the closest thing you can find to it. In addition to the detailed drawings and things John mentioned, you will also find specifications of what lube when where, how much lube, how the hose clamps were positioned on the hose, and many other seemingly insignificant items that you might not think about, but were important to putting the vehicle together. The other thing John mentioned about engineering revisions (with the date and person that signed off of them usually listed!), plus the proposed and scheduled options that were cancelled for some reason, can be highly informative. Assembly manuals can be very good investments too. What they typically will NOT do is tell you is how to put the various pieces together to make the finished vehicle (at least the one I have for a '70 Camaro is that way), but the various drawings can give you a good idea of how things fit together, not to mention the specified fasteners (nuts, bolts, etc.) by GM Part Number (at the time the vehicle was built). Lots of things you will not find anywhere else! There might be some sources other than online auctions, possibly? Enjoy! NTX5467

As I recall, if you can find the original Protect-O-Plate for the vehicle, that will have some information stamped into the metal plate that can be helpful. Otherwise, the Buick (from GM) parts books usually detailed where the stamp codes were located (in the front pages of the book) and what they might be. The '68 Buick service manual also has some of that information too. As for casting numbers, I found a book at Barnes&Nobles that has casting numbers for most everything on the engine and other related items for a vast number of cars dating from the early '50s. Documentation can be tricky on some GM cars. KEY THING -- whether or not the performance package was designated as a separate model (by decoding the VIN) or was an option code for a lower level vehicle. This is what makes cloning first and second generation Z-28s more difficult than a similar Road Runner or GTX. In the case of the "option" status, there will still be some unique-to-that-model items to look for--hopefully--which is how to determine a real '69 Z-28 from a clone. Redline on the tach will be specific to particular engines. The tire pressure decal might relate to a particular tire size for the performance model (15" in the case of th Z-28). Then there are other external engine parts that will be specific to the particular engine--i.e., carb number, distributor number--which HOPEFULLY have not been changed during the vehicle's earlier life. In that earlier time frame, distributor calibrations needed to be very specific to the vehicle application for emissions purposes (different timing calibrations for manual trans, automatics, models, axle ratios, etc.) and I rather suspect Buicks were in the same situation as other cars were back then in this respect. As for the transmission and rear axle, the trans could have heavier duty internals (more clutches in the clutch pack, different torque converter, higher upshift governor) and therefore generate a different production code. Similar with the rear axle and the gear ratio in it. Boxed rear control arms might be an indicator too, if they were in the factory production mix, but they could also relate to a normal suspension upgrade to include the F41-style rear sway bar suspension package. There might be some of the GS people that could further detail many of these things, I suspect. Sometimes, in documenting these vehicles, you have to look at the total vehicle combination to make sure of what you have instead of just a few specific items that are easily noted. The OTHER side of things is that GM typically would build most any combination of vehicle equipment back then so it might have been possible to custom order a Skylark with most of the GS items, but on a regular Sklark model (like some of the documented '57 Fuel Injection Chevrolets or the later '68 Biscaynes 427 V-8s). This is where looking at the total vehicle and all of the "little things" (even the casting numbers on the body mounts!) comes into play. In the "general" sense of things, as I understand it, "numbers matching" would mean that at a minimum, the vehicle has the "as produced" engine in it that matches the VIN of the vehicle. ALL GM engines have some sort of casting number, casting date, and part of the VIN for the vehicle it is destined for (in many cases, the VIN segment is on the ones from the early'70s on many of the carlines). As I recall from the '68 Buick service manual, there is a "two letter" stamp on the left hand front of the block and matching similar stamp/castings(?) on between #1 and #3 spark plugs on the heads (working from memory here!). Some of this information could be on many of the Buick-related informational websites and other places, but seeing it in print in the appropriate GM publications might be a better source. On later vehicles, there are also many "hidden" numbers to help track theft recovery efforts. I'm not sure just how extensive those stamp numbers were in the earlier times, but they could be there on the earlier models too--if you know where to look. As you continue to disassemble the vehicle, be SURE to photo-document all of the parts of the vehicle, noting color daubs, paint stripes, etc. that would also indicate particular production designations for the parts. Clean and then refinish the parts in the closest possible match paint and then reapply the paint/inspection markings. Much of that stuff is available, but not specifically for Buicks (I suspect), from the Chevrolet and Pontiac restoration sources, so networking and cross-shopping can be a good thing to do. On the production line, it was easier to look at a color code to match than a letter code. Then, when individual bolts were torqued, they would receive an inspection "mark" of some sort to indicate everything had been done and passed inspection for that particular component (i.e., ball joint nuts). This is why it's so important to document these things before you refinish/replace those parts. Even if you don't plan to do a concours restoration, doing these little things (CORRECT finishes and inspection stamps/daubs) can make a nice car even nicer. Although there were build instructions on these things, how these things were done was variable with respect to the particular plant, time of assembly, and even who was on the line doing the inspections and marking functions when that particular vehicle was assembled. Sometimes, it would be with a grease pencil of a particular color or particular making code and other times it would be done in paint or inspection stamps of particular codes and colors. Enjoy! NTX5467

Perhaps the BCA might need to consider such a technical review board for such issues? This would take the decisions out of the Board's control and also "depoliticize" these things and hopefully take such things to a "higher ground" situation rather than who's sitting on the Board at the time the question of "radial tires" (or whatever) is raised AGAIN. Hopefully, with all of the tech advisors already online in the BCA, such a review board could be configured rather easily. Thanks for sharing that bit of information with us, Keith. Respectfully, Willis Bell 20811

What I discovered when researching my '68 LeSabre convertible might still be operative for the later models, there were two full size GM convertible top mechanisms. One was for the normal B-body cars (i.e., Impala/Caprice, Catalina/Bonneville, Delta88, LeSabre). The other was for the higher level Olds 98, Electra, and Cadillac DeVille models. Longer wheelbases = longer interior lenghts = longer tops, typically. The weatherstrips that attach to the convertible top can all be common within the respesctive model groups, but the weatherstrips that attach to the doors themselves would most likely be specific to the particular models and years of vehicles. Basically, what attaches to the convertible top and related mechanism could be common between the various carlines, but what attaches to the body of the car itself would most likely, generally speaking, be specific to that carline vehicle. In the case of the top latches, they might be different between the different car lines, but could have the same architecture and interchange--provided the only difference might be the shape of the handle you move to latch the top. The best way to research your vehicle would be with some vintage GM parts books. If the Buick parts book has the same part numbers as the similar Chevrolet parts book, then my basic theory of interchangeability could be confirmed. The convertible top vendors might offer "Chevrolet" applications and not offer "Buick" applications, even though they might be the same GM parts, so finessing their offerings when you contact them might be necessary. On my '68, even the casting numbers on the weatherstrips and body mounts match what's in the Chevrolet parts book for a similar Impala model, so there might be more common "stuff" than many of the vendors might be aware of, outside of their "universal fit" items. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

In those earlier systems, typical of similar systems on other GM vehicles of that era and earlier, the transducer (what the two speedometer cables attach to under the hood) might be having a problem. There are some adjustments on it, but you have to know where they are. The other major component of it is the servo (what moves the throttle linkage) and it could be experiencing a vacuum leak or similar. The mechanical parts of the system are in the transducer, which uses speed input from the speedometer cable, to vary the vacuum to the servo. If there's an external vacuum solenoid on the bottom of the transducer, that's for the "Resume" function which later models had. There can also be some vacuum lines that attach to a brake switch near the brake pedal inside the car. Checking the vacuum lines might be a good first place to look. There are some different models of transducers, depending on "Gas" or "Diesel", and whether or not the vehicles have an indicator light for the cruise control on the instrument panel. The indicator lamp units will work pretty much "everywhere" (the "light" terminal would not be used, for example), but from what I recall from those earlier days, there is something different inside regarding the gas or diesel units (maybe a drilled restrictor orifice in the brass fitting?). Most units had the "ON" switch on the turn signal lever or were "always on" when the ignition switch was "ON" too. A few models had actual "ON-OFF" switches on the instrument panel, which usually had an "ON" indicator lamp. Later versions had the "ON-OFF-Resume" switch on the cruise level itself (with or without the indicator lamp). I'm not sure where rebuilt transducers can be obtained any more, but checking with your local AC-Delco radio service center might yield some answers (many of the older radio service centers also reman'd the cruise transducers or knew where to get them). Perhaps some Google searches too? "Everybody" used to have these things, but as the cruise systems went fully electronic, that number of sources has tended to dwindle. Hopefully you can find somebody near you that has them AND has some sort of warranty on them. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

What about the hydraulic lines? There have been some cases where brake lines would look good on the outside, but be "delaminating" internally and not letting fluid flow freely. Usually, the inner layer will come apart and let fluid flow one way but not the other, depending on how it came apart and resisted fluid flow past it. Air in the system can be a problem too. If you can configure some way to do it, you might seal the plug where you put fluid into the reservoir and then use a hand pump to pull a vacuum on the reservoir. This should get the air out of the system, just as it does on the brake systems at the assembly plant when the cars were built. Seems like on of the convertible supply companies had a gallon of fluid they sold that came with the appropriate installation tool to add fluid without aerating it? Maybe a "correct" way and position to add fluid to the reservoir too? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

What was somewhat common, at least from my observations, was that the crankshaft didn't usually "break", but the middle main bearing journal wore excessively (making the knock you might hear) due to too much clearance. My machine shop operative relates that this was due to the way Buick machined/cast the blocks back then (noting too that one of the first things the Buick V-6 perofmance manual mentions is getting ONE long drill bit to enlarge the main bearing oil galley in the middle for one continuous galley of a common size). In theory, the middle main bearing only requires "so much" oil to keep it lubricated, so using two larger drill bits that did not "meet in the middle" (more song lyrics!), resulting in a smaller galley section for just the middle main bearing, coupled with so-so maintainance over long periods, usually resulted in those engines needing a "crank kit" at about 70,000 miles or so. No breakage, just wear. Easily replaceable, but the engine has to be removed from the chassis. As I recall, the only difference between the Cutlass Hurst/Olds with 165 horsepower was the exhaust system rather than anything internal in the engine. The Turbo200 is a three-speed automatic. The Turbo200-R4 is the 4-speed version with the 4th gear being overdrive. It's highly possibly that your Regal has a 2.41 rear axle ratio--which is NOT compatible with the overdrive transmission as it will make the cruise rpm tooooo low, further making the car feel "doggy" or "piggy" or just plain weak plus making the transmission "hunt" for a gear to stay in on the highway, which is not good either. It'll take a good bit more power than what you have to cause problems with the 7.50" rear axle, but I mentioned that as a point of interest if you should desire to "get crazy" of something in the power deparment with other larger engine alternatives (like a 455 or something). The OTHER thing to consider is how the engine swap will play out with your local state emissions checks too! If you change the engine from one vehicle from another, you need EVERYTHING from the donor vehicle on your vehicle--period. Everything that can relate and be affected by the engine in a particular chassis of vehicle, from the fuel tank forward. NO guess work here! Once those state inspectors see something has been changed, they'll start making a "laundry list" and then it's up to you to prove it's all been done to specs for that vehicle. In some cases, even putting an OD trans where it didn't come will affect tailpipe emissions due to the different cruise rpm levels (and related grams/mile of pollutants out the tail pipe). That extra power from the 307 might seem enticing, but remember that you'll end up with a vehicle that's a little heavier (why you'll need the heavier duty front springs due to the additional engine weight!). Therefore, the additional engine weight combined with the marginally higher horsepower rating could result in a vehicle that you've spent some money on to make it better and "faster" that really isn't either. Much wrenching, flailing of tools and hands, more money changes hands, for basically no real benefit of the customer. Also, make sure the intake manifold on the Olds is not aluminum. Many of them back then had issues with erosion in the seal area of the water passages in the intake manifolds where it mates with the cylinder head. They were very expensive back then and very hard to find in the salvage yards too--and that was 15+ years ago! Definitely NOT the $50.00 item they would have been for a Chevrolet! Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Isn't that line, "It never rains in California . . ." from an Eagles song? hehe Seems like I remember the "rain in sunny California" being called "liquid sunshine" by some of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce people back in the '60s as they promoted the "Sunny California" orientation back then? When I was at Kokomo for the national meet up there, there was a very good documentary on the Beach Boys on a cable channel one night. Quite interesting how it all interacted with the whole California scene back then! Many of those songs had real meaning to them plus generations of other young people too. Lots of great music back then! If you're in the Google mood, punch in some of the '50s television shows (like "77 Sunset Strip") and see how much is out there on those older shows! Wonder if they'll have a list of how many show episodes that Broderick Crawford or Perry Mason drove Buicks in? John, if you have the ice scrapers that are the "fancy ones" with the brush on the other end of them, you can still use them to brush off the sand when you go to the beach. The scraper end could be used to mould sand castles too! Enjoy! NTX5467

In many respects, the Olds 307, while bigger in displacement, was NOT much better in power than the 231 you now have. If you do decide to do that swap, also get: the COMPLETE computer and ALL related wiring harnesses from the donor vehicle, front coil springs (to compensate for the heavier engine weight), and most probably the radiator and transmission too. And that doesn't account for getting the exhaust and other things hooked up nor new motor mounts while you've got everything apart. If you desire a bigger engine, a much better choice would be a 350 Olds or even a 403, but the same (or more) issues mentioned above would also be operative too. Or even a BUICK 350 (and transmission) from a larger LeSabre of that general era (for the computer items). But, if you get too far out of whack with the "power" thing, you'll need to find a heavier duty rear axle than the existing 7.50" ring gear unit in there now. None of these things are not out of the realm of "hot rodding", but it just depends on where your orientations are, how much time you can have the car "down", and how much money you have to spend. In some respects, you could do a lot worse than just to repair the 231 V-6 in there now. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Perhaps the best way to see what your most accurate speed is would be to use a G-TECH device. Not only will they read lateral Gs, but also time/distance and speed (why you can use them to do timed acceleration tests outside of a "trap" set up at the drag strip). Modern electronic speedometers CAN be much more accurate than the earlier cable-driven ones, for obvious reasons, but there's still a tolerance level and basic calibration spec just as in any other electronic meter device. There are still parameters within their software for certain tire/vehicle combinations which do the same thing as the older driven/drive gears in the transmission. Analog or digital, the base calibration has to be accurate for the vehicle specs. In an article on the then-new letter designations for tire size in the late 1960s, CAR LIFE magazine listed the "standard" sizing specs for each tire size, from A to L letters. As the first batch of "letter" tires were the also then-new 70 series tires, that's what they had listed. The "standard" size for each letter of the 70 series tires were listed and it was also noted that government specs would allow 7% deviation from those sizes. Nothing was said about the additional deviation for tires which had gone from 11/32" tread when new to 2/32" when totally worn (at the tread wear indicators), nor high speed "expansion" for the non-belted tires of that era. So, considering all of these factors, speedometer accuracy can be something of a "crapshoot" in some cases. Knowing that how you arrived at your "corrected" speed, either by pacing and factoring the indicated speed into actual speed or getting things done by trial and error and road timing, is reasonably accurate can give you some extra confidence should your observed speed be questioned. As mentioned earlier, the tire charts in the manufacturer's respective websites (section width when mounted on a particular width rim, rev/mile, etc.) can be a very good source for seeing what size you might need. Downside is that many of us have gotten so used to seeing wider tires on all vehicles, that putting something of the correct section width on an older car makes them look reallllyyyy skinny and undersized. For example, the P225/75R-15 tire on a 6" rim is usually listed as 8.8_" in section width, making it fit more of the old 8.85-15 or J78-15 sizing instead of the H78-15 sizing that it usually replaces (maybe due to the sidewall deflection at road load making the "taller" radial tire be the same "rolling" height as the older bias ply type tire?). If the 8.45-15 tire size is close on particular vehicles, as noted, then the P225/75R-15 will be closer still. Please note also that for each 1/2" of rim width variation, that results in a .2" difference in section width "as mounted". And then there's the "offset" spec that can affect tire/body/suspension clearance too. When determining what tires your vintage vehicle might need, use the manufacturer's dimension charts to make sure the cosmetics stay reasonably the same. If the physical sizing is the same, the load carrying capacity should be in the ballpark too, usually higher with the newer P-metric tires and their 35psi+ max inflation ratings. You can size the tires by using the carrying capacity ratings alone, but you'll usually end up with tires with a smaller circumference and that will lead to road speed being a good bit slower than what the speedometer indicates. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

The old 8.45x15 size became 8.55x15 and then basically changed to the H78-15. The P225/75x15 size actually measures (from the tire dimension charts in www.tirerack.com and other similar websites) to the 8.85-15 or J78-15 sizes, but those are the generally accepted substitutes for the earlier H78-15 sizing. The tire size page on the Miata website is really neat! Only thing is that it deals in absolute sizes that leave no room for production variations between tire brands, which is why the "Revs/mile" information in the charts for the different tires at tirerack.com come in handy. Now, if you really want to spend some time and see just where your speedometer is, accuracy wise--speed and distance--find about a 10 mile stretch of reasonably straight and flat interstate with mile markers. Five miles might work too. 60 mph = 60 seconds/mile By keeping a steady speed through several of the mile markers (why a straight and level road comes in handy!) you can see where the odometer calibration is (it's driven directly off of the speedometer cable). Getting the odometer calibrated first is important as then you'll know which way to go with the speedometer gear/adapter, if needed. The speed cup of the speedometer, that moves the speedometer needle against a clock spring, is run by the spinning magnet that turns inside the speed cup. The calibration here is done by "zapping" the magnet momentarily (with the appropriate tool at the speedometer shop) to make the magnetism stronger or weaker so that the indicated speed is accurate (within specs, which usually are +1 fast to -4 slow from the actual speed (from what I saw in an ACDelco speedometer and gauge catalog one time). Therefore, getting the cable speed/odometer calibration correct FIRST is important to getting things to closer tolerances. From the Miata tire webpage, you can get a "Revs/mile" figure for that "perfect tire" and then use the similar numbers in the tirerack.com charts to see where what you have might fall. The P225/70R-15 size is the old G70-15 size so it could be possible it is "shorter" than what the vehicle was set up for from the factory. Perhaps the next size up P235/70R-15 size (rear wheel drive Roadmaster size and also on many late model S-10 4-dr Blazers) might be a better alternative (also available in white sidewall too, if that's a consideration)? After doing the driving calibrations (as mentioned above), then you can figure what "indicated" speed you need to run to do the "actual" posted speed. It might take a little time to do it, but then you'll know where everything's "at" until you might purchase new tires or get the speedometer calibration customized for what you have. Enjoy! NTX5467

Joe, with all due respect, looking at "blue sky" items will always be controversial in one way or another. It's always good to look forward to predict where things might be at the "three-five years out" timeframe--that should be part of normal business planning--BUT I still have not seen mention of the financial and "make it work" issues and THOSE items alone might make PayPal not a good thing for OUR organization. Yes, surveys can be dangerous. If you have read Bob Lutz's book "GUTS", he talks about surveys of existing and potential customers. The example given is asking people how many cupholders they would like to see in their next minivan. Of course, the more the better and most everyone will say they want the largest number on the survey. When asked if they'd pay $200.00 more for all of those extra cupholders, they'd probably say "No". The main message is that if you believe all of the information collected by surveys, as GM typically did for a while, without putting it all into perspective as to what it would cost to get there, then where you end up could be detrimental even though you are giving the customer (current and potential) what they want. Surveying "potential" BCA members could be dangerous in this respect. If they do not join, then it could be determined that they were not really serious about joining in the first place and the survey results can be skewed somewhat from what they might have otherwise been, just as the survey results of Mr. Lutz's cupholder survey (and others any other car company might do) while at Chrysler. Every job has it's price and those doing it have their respective tolerance levels for those things. IF PayPal would introduce added issues to the daily business climate of our office managers, they might decide they need more money to perform their functions--normal situations that we all can understand. Therefore, will the total membership be willing to pay more dues to support the greater overhead of operating the BCA for the convenience of a few members (not to mention the factoring issues previously mentioned that would further erode net profits from memberships)? Until THESE factors are researched, evaluated, resolved, AND voted on by the BCA Board, all of the "future of business" and "convenience" comments will be terribly one-sided as certain agendas in that area are touted as "what the BCA needs to do". As mentioned, how all of these things play out with respect to our sizable number of international members should also be seriously considered as any decision does not need to alienate THEM either. It seems that this discussion has turned into something of a "promotion" for PayPal. We all like to look at "blue sky" situations as we plan for the future, but paying for that blue sky has to be evaluated also. And then there are also credible reasons for not flying as high as some might like to. There's costs involved in any business function/activity and as the current BCA members are the ones paying the bills, it's THEIR money we're dealing with. If all of those potential members that say they would like for the BCA to do thus and so DO JOIN, then they can have THEIR orientations put into the mix. There are many much more compelling reasons to joing the BCA OTHER THAN just how you pay your dues! Respectfully, NTX5467

Joe, I understand your orientations to keep moving into the future with eCommerce and such. There is no doubt that it is here to stay, but it's not whether or not you have eCommerce available, it's how it's managed, promoted, and used that puts the real value into that equation. Marketing and Customer Relations Management (CRM) are key aspects that must be done correctly or eCommerce doesn't reach the levels it needs to for optimum results. For an organization with such diverse membership demographics as the BCA has, what might be great for some might also introduce enough added complexity for our office administrators that it might cause more stress in the workplace, perhaps, than the benefits for the members might provide. In other words, it needs to be mutually beneficial for all parties--even in a social environment where the customer is catered to regardless of the cost of that activity. eCommerce does have some definite positives about it, but if you are a person that likes to pay cash or use money orders, how do those orientations fit in? Not everyone has or desires to use credit cards for everything. Some might also be "recovering creditcardaholics" too. Unfortunately, there have been a good number of failed eCommerce ventures. One was the "next wave of grocery purchasing" that was a big deal in some metro markets, only to not cover costs, yet are now resurfacing in some areas. Sure, you can sit there in your pajamas and order groceries at 3:00am, but somebody's still got to be there for the delivery. Look how long it took Amazon.com to turn a solid profit, for example. Gross cash flow is one thing, net profits are another. I still remember about 10 years ago. Our chapter did an approved chapter project of getting some mouse pads made with the BCA logo on them. Personally, I thought the prices were a little high, but everyone thought it had possibilities to make money (even though our selling price was a little higher than other similar, but not BCA-logoed, items were at the office supply chains). Many chapter members bought them and some members took them to another BCA national meet to sell at our chapter table there. Some were sold, but not to expectations. So the story goes . . . one elderly man came up and inquired as to what our members were selling. "Mouse pads" was the reply. The gentleman looked kind of funny and replied something to the effect that he didn't want mice in his house much less give them a place to sleep. The further explanations about a "mouse" being a computer part instead of a rodent didn't seem to register. While many senior citizens have embraced the Internet and can use computers competently, there are still many in that generation who have no desires to even own a computer (just like not having a car without a column shift, as in their generation a column shift meant "upscale" from the floor shift the lower priced cars had back then). We in the BCA do not need to abandon those customers/members for any reason. Personally, I might be wrong, but having credit card capabilities and PayPal would be somewhat redundant in nature--everyone has their own "favorite" way of paying their bills (i.e., cash, money order, checks, credit cards, PayPal). I would also hope that whatever fees involved in processing PayPal items are in line with those of processing a common MasterCard or Visa or Discover transaction (AMEX users, don't feel "slighted" but those fees are or used to be several percent higher than the MC, Visa, Discover fees, which is why not everyone accepts AMEX cards). To me, having secure online credit card transactions available would be a plus. I also concur with Barney's comments about using the "Three Year Plan" for renewals. With the Lifetime Memberships being phased out, this is the next best deal and one that is priced such that more could potentially benefit from it. These renewals can help with long term planning of expenses and related items, which can be benefical to the entire organization. In all due respect, this subject can be replayed every quarter for infinity, but to me the bottom line would be whatever additional costs would be involved with PayPal and/or secure online credit card transactions, whether they could be done directly or would have to be factored through various banking institutions, or whatever. If the costs of doing these things will add to existing costs without really helping things, it would be a wise business decision to fully consider all of the angles instead of just a few as there are "no free rides" in the financial end of things. By the same token, if these added costs were considered "investments in the future" and really did pay off, things could be expanded from there. Yet, at this point in time, it all could be nothing more than a "crapshoot" as to what to do and when. Not everyone feels comfortable with the famous comment that Tom Cruise made in "Risky Business" when it's THEIR money somebody's playing with. I understand the perceived frustration you might have in the workplace, Joe, in going over and over the eCommerce proposal, answering and re-answering the same questions in the approval process you're progressing through. Obviously, everybody wants to feel comfortable with what might be getting ready to happen such that no surprises happen or unforeseen problems suddenly pop up, but at some point in time, somebody's got to give the "Let's Do It" signal and let things happen. Hopefully, market conditions might not have changed in the interim and everything will work as designed, with a feedback loop of continuous improvement. Perhaps an expansion of the current membership dues payment types can be on a future BCA Board's agenda and that full information on processing costs will be presented for the Board's consideration? I suspect that offering an online survey in this Forum might also tend to skew the results of the survey, unfortunately, so a printed survey in The Bugle might a better way to do that. When all else fails, "default" = pen, ink, and "snail". Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Back when I was really believing the "unbiased" orientation of CU, I remember seeing some of the same things Reatta was mentioning about how one version of the same vehicle from the same plant got low ratings yet another one with something just slightly different would do better, in a non-related area such as paint, squeeks/rattles, etc. JDP has many surveys they do. The Initial Quality survey, The Desireability survey, and the Long Term Reliability survey (which is the one mentioned for 2001 cars). Knowing how far GM and Buick have come in those areas since 2001, there's no reason for the newer vehicles to NOT be great vehicles in so many respects. Many people tend to put some "weight" in what Edmunds says too. The first time I came across them was in the new car price books they used to publish in the '70s. Those guides seemed to be the most accurate from what I could tell back then. In more recent times, they host chat rooms, do tests and evaluations, and have "opinions" on many automotive things. At one time, I was highly interested in Oldsmobile Intrigues. The Oldsmobile that only had "Oldsmobile" on it in one place--the right hand back up light lens. I was reading all of the magazine articles I could on them and found a review that Edmunds had done for one in their fleet, back in '98 or so. They "hated" that car for some reason and there were few favorable comments about it in their logbook or in their comments about it. They talked bad about any dealers they took it to in LA and just how it was not "up to Honda standards". One staffer was needing a car to head to his family on the east coast and he asked about using the Intrigue. Everyone told him he ought to take the Honda instead, but he persisted and took the Intrigue (probably as it would hold all of the family luggage and baby things!). HIS entries in the logbook were highly favorable on the whole car, including the fuel economy of the (Buick) 3800 V-6. In re-reading all of their rants, I finally determined that "corporate" had them under the gun to get an Intrigue in their fleet for a long-term test. It was something they did not want to do (they'd rather have a Honda or something Japanese, it seemed, if THEY were going to drive it), yet they had to find one and quick. The one they bought was a color they didn't like AND it had the optional spoiler on the back, which they didn't like either. Hence, that car's future with them was doomed from the outset. They didn't want it to start with and it didn't get any favorable comments from them as a result. In a comparison test of "family cars" that Car and Driver did a few years ago, the GM cars (Impala, Regal, etc.) plus an Intrepid 2.7L V-6 were rated lower in most every area they were graded in. The poor Intrepid, with the 2.7L V-6 was ridiculed for being so slow(??). The GM cars were mentioned as being "dated" with "ancient" motors. Yet the Honda was chosen for it's refinement and better value. Most of the editors in that test were younger people who probably never had been on a family vacation where rear seat leg room AND trunk space were prized commodoties! Many times, the buying public is somewhat fickle. They'll take on over an American car as being spacious, comfortable, luxurious, and having great trunk space, yet their world can only be "right" if they have on their "Honda/Toyota colored glasses". Their perception by others is an operative situation, it seems. With their purchase of those nameplates, they've joined a "select" group that will not admit to the extra money they pay for that priviledge in added "by the book" maintenance or how much it cost them to replace a lost ignition key (where the whole security system must be replaced!), for example, yet they'll gripe over a $25.00 GM "chip" key as being too much. They'll never talk about how little leg room's in the back seat or how thin the cushion is back there either, or that the rear seat has to fold down to have decent cargo carrying capacity. Sometimes I really wonder if the people with those cars really "tell the truth" on their surveys? I might be a little "old fashioned", but to me a "family car" should hold 4-5 people in decent comfort and have a trunk big enough to support that 2 week family vacation that was so "American" back in the more affluent times of the 20th Century. In that criteria, GM has some of the best vehicles on the market, without having to get into the SUV category. If lease residuals ever start taking a dump with Honda/Toyota/Lexus vehicles, "sales" of those cars will markedly decrease, I suspect. But that's a whole 'nuther situation. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I know that many BCA members will not attend a national meet unless they drive to the meet in their Buicks. I also understand the orientation of not driving to a national meet due to uncertain weather issues, distances, etc., BUT not attending for those reasons has some issues too. For example, in situations where facilities rentals (including at host hotels) do not meet a minimum number of "room/nights sold", where the existing hotel taxes pay for the facilities rentals, if not enough room/nights are sold at the designated hotels (which are tracked via making the room reservations through a convention/visitors bureau), then the host chapter can have to make up that difference from their gross profits of the meet (which can have other implications if other things come to pass). Similar in concept to blocking a certain number of rooms at hotels and then them not being sold and the entity that rented them having to make good on their guarantees for those rooms. Therefore, using the rationale of not attending a BCA National Meet as you don't want to drive your Buick to the meet has some side issues involved, with all due respect. We all like to see the larger number of vehicle entrants on the show field or other display areas, BUT if those rooms in the designated hotels are not rented (not just reserved and then cancelled due to "no show"), the financial implications for the host chapter can be significant (even to the point of putting things "into the red"). So, if you decline to attend a BCA National Event due to driving/distance issues, I would seriously suggest that you get there by some alternative means. Go and enjoy the event and all of the related tours, events, other Buicks you might not have seen before (and might not see again!), plus seeing old friends and making new ones. The networking activities with other BCA members can be much more fun and beneficial that you might ever suspect--not to mention finding some rare part/special tool/literature that you've been looking for for years. Attending a BCA National Meet -- even without your Buick -- can still be a mutually beneficial deal for all involved. There are many more reasons to attend a BCA National Meet than just driving to it in your Buick. Respectfully, Willis Bell 20811 Director, North Texas Chapter, BCA

From what local auto historian Ed Wallace has said in times past, there have been many more issues with Mercedes quality than we hear about on this side of the water--and this was even before they spent money on SMART or Chrysler. Seems that you had to read the German papers to find this information about how many Mercedes vehicles had to have plant rechecks before they could be shipped. GM has been making steady improvements in many areas over the past years. Steady improvements in the quality of vendor items plus assembly and engineering processes are key area where progress has been made. Buick has usually tended to be up near the top of the JDP surveys on reliability and quality for many years but not as high as they are now, yet everyone's making steady improvements too so it's a moveable target that must be compensated for. And then there's the demographics of the customer base of the respective vehicles. For example, in one survey a Plymouth Breeze scored higher than the very similar Dodge Stratus--same car, same assembly line, slightly different customer base, but usually a more basic vehicle than the Dodge. This could be a somewhat significant side issue in the total realm of surveys that cannot be factored into the numbers, just as how long a particular model of vehicle has been in production in its current configuration. Numbers might be numbers, but interpretation can be talked about. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

The Limited Slip Additive is still available from GM. Many dealers that used to carry it in the past might not have it now, but it's still around in the same bottle that it's been in for a long time. Seems like the part number is 1052358. If one dealer doesn't have it, they can check on the "D2D Link" locator service or you can check Partsvoice.com too. It, like the Supercharger Oil for supercharged Buick V-6s, might take a little time to track down, but it's still possible to do. Distributor Cam Lube is still in the GM Standard Parts Catalog! Thanks, NTX5467

John, in prior times, there was a document (about 12 pages typewritten) that contained basically the "minimum bid specs" for doing the event and things to consider. It was quite intimidating when you first looked at it, but was pretty accurate as to what needed to be considered and submitted in the bid proposal. I know that at one time, there was supposed to be some "How To Do A National Meet" software around somewhere, but did not see any evidence of it or if it was a good deal after I heard that it was supposed to exist. I also don't know what the National Office has in their bid package information that they are sending out to possible host chapters in more recent times, but they would be the main contact in this area. Also, in prior times, the National Office sent out a request each December for a current chapter member roster so they could cross-check the lists against the national roster list. For some reason, this does not seem to being done (in conjunction with the yearly chapter directors' survey) in more recent times so the National Office would be the contact on the numbers of members/chapter/region also. Therefore, for any "numbers things", the BCA National Office would be the contacts for that information. Whether or not the BCA President or any Board member would have this information "at their fingertips" can be a variable situation as it would depend on whether or not they are regularly requesting that information from the National Office (as they process new and renewal memberships there). Just some thoughts, NTX5467

If the car has a PosiTrac rear axle, it probably needs a fluid change with the correct GM additive added. The earlier PosiTraction units were "locked until they unlock" instead of like the more recent versions that are "unlocked until they lock" and lockup via a governor weight swinging out after one wheel spins a calibrated amount. On my dad's '69 Chevy pickup, which he bought new, it would do it worse on slow, left turns (similar to what you describe). It would pop and make the pickup jump when it did. Used to be that GM had a particular part number rear axle lube for PosiTracs, but now all of the lubes are universal. When that happened, the PosiTrac additive became necessary. The "unlocked" style later units aren't supposed to need the additive, but the earlier styles definitely do. With the new fluid change w/additive, it might help to do some figure 8s in a vacant parking lot to get the new grease worked into the clutch plates. I read that in a car magazine back in the '60s. You might also want to check the condition of the trailing arm bushings too. Enjoy! NTX5467

Bid rejection? Just saying you want to do a national and letting the Board know is not really a "bid"--it needs to be a comprehensive bid package. As mentioned, it takes a good bit of planning and such, BUT it's NOT ROCKET SCIENCE or anything mystical, just sitting down and getting all of the "TriShields" (didn't want to say "ducks") in a row. As I recall, the last AZ meet was not one of the most memorable BCA National Meets in history--other than some things like heat and using the cooler hours of the day to best advantage. I also suspect that the article that came out in The Bugle, although well meaning, probably scared off many from east of the Rockies--just my gut suspicion. In reviewing the number of awards presented at that meet, there were less than in either of the 1996 or 2004 National Meets in Plano, TX--as a point of reference. There were, as I recall reading about, some major flaps about some incorrect equipment on 400 point judged vehicles. Incorrect year of wire wheels? Not to mention some big financial issues. A few current Board members probably remember these things too, but the Board is charged with making the best perceived decision on which bid is the best--regardless of who makes it. I know there are some larger chapters in the AZ and CA area and have noticed that other Buick enthusiast groups have meets in Nevada and such, so it's not like there are not enough cars in that region that, if all attended, would make a nice sized regional or national event. Not that it would be an instant financial success, though, but that's where realistically careful financial planning for the meet comes in. As Bob Leets mentioned, doing a national is not quite the same as doing a big cruise event on a weekend night, but a few aspect can be similar. The differences come in where you need to have some entertainment (tours, for example) during the earlier days of the meet (affordably priced too). Working with a Convention/Visitors Bureau to put together a hotel group nearby the host hotel/convention center complex where the meet will be can be highly preferable than dealing with hotel management, from what we've seen. But the main issue is event site selection as many that "look good" might not be when all aspects are considered (i.e., enough rooms, but not enough banquet space or parking space), so this is one of the most time consuming aspects of getting a national meet bid put together. Also, using a CVB can be advantageous as they can usually pull strings that individuals or hotel managers might not be able to. There are also many things that would be neat to do, but can easily put the operating cost of the meet out of whack. For example, figure your break-even point (number of cars/room nights/registrants) conservatively and realistically and keep that in mind as the budget is put together. If there have been some national car club events in your region/area recently, network with the people that did them to formulate the "short list" of tours and activities. Many times, there are things the locals are used to that the visitors would be excited about doing. You might be surprised. In the case of a Southern CA meet, with so many outstanding car collections/businesses/activities, doing the tours could be pretty tough, but also providing maps to things that are not "tours" can help too as smaller groups might desire to drive to those locations--self-guided tours. Having a video presentation of the meet hotel, other accomodations in the package, the actual meet venue, and general area can be a good idea too. This helps the Board see what the proposal actually is, plus those at the meeting too. Doesn't have to be a fancy presentation, but a credible one AND then you deliver what you proposed. Other than the space requirements for the banquet, there will also be space requirements for the indoor swap meet (no "drippy" parts in there), judging administration, sufficient space for trophy/award assembly, and other work space for the various computerized and manual administration functions of the meet that the local chapter and BCA operatives will be performing. So, as Bob mentioned, there are some definite side issues to deal with in a BCA National Event, but they are not as bad as they might sound, just making the long list of things to do and working through it in an orderly fashion. Once a suitable event site is found, the rest might seem easy--but the key thing is finding that "optimum", best choice (all things considered), event site. Also, what might seem like great event sites (on the surface) can turn out to be definitely "non-optimum" when further investigation is done. AND, above all, it MUST BE AFFORDABLE to attend, participate in, AND buy the necessary hotel room/nights at the hotels in the package. In reality, it's nothing more than effective planning, marketing, and execution just as if you were in a private business. The planning/selection functions can be "fast-tracked" in some cases once "targets" are determined. It doesn't necessarily have to take months to make it happen, but it can. Getting a short list of the main contenders and letting the chapter members listen to the presentations and make the decision on the best site/package is a plus too. It also helps when the main chapter members have attended other national meets and recall what went right and what could have been done better. But once the final decision is made on the bid package and it's presented to the BCA Board, then everyone needs to be committed to making it happen in the best manner possible. It can help to have a large chapter to host the event, but a smaller chapter with dedicated volunteers or a group of chapters working together than make it happen too. As much as many of us would like to see a West Coast/CA meet, the bid package must be a credible one AND able to survive a challenge from an East of the Mississippi chapter too. New York, Minnesota, CA, CO, and then GA, KS, FL, and ????? Just some thoughts, NTX5467