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About jake1960

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  1. The second one down I think is for 1929 and 1930. Same as my 29 DA. Jake
  2. Do you know how I can test it to be sure it's good. Thanks!
  3. This appears to be a North East Electric ignition coil, but I haven't a clue what year or engine this was used on. Anyone know the application and value? Thanks, Jake
  4. Well Murphy's law strikes again. After all is said and done I returned the stinkin new starter motor and the new new starter motor works perfect even with no shims. Thank you! to all for your ideas and advice. My problem was the starter worked fine when checking on the bench so I ass-u-me-d it was good but the stinkin solenoid was bad but wouldn't show as bad until against the flywheel.....where do you suppose they "remanufacture" old starters? The local nursing home perhaps? Regards all, Jake
  5. THANKS Steve! This now makes more sense to me. I appreciate long and wordy explanations. I didn't realize the gear is completing the curcuit so power is still present until gear is no longer touching flywheel. That explains why it work perfectly on the bench. The old starter did NOT have any shims that I saw. Can you explain what they look like or can I pick some up at Autozone or the like? Can I use washers? I knew it has to be something simple as it started up like a brand new car a couple times.....didn't hardly even crank 1/2 revolution. I will get some stinkin shims and let you know how I make out....it's such a long walk into town... Regards, Jake
  6. OK thanks for this idea. I have heard about shimming the starter years and years ago but never actually had to do it. May I ask why the starter motor would keep cranking if there is NO power to it whether it is shimmed or not? Why would the starter motor continue to crank if the key is off whether shimmed correctly or no shims at all? What am I missing here? Thanks, Jake
  7. Is it possible the solenoid on the new remanufactured starter motor is bad, but why would it work properly when on the floor and not installed? Hmmmm.... jake
  8. I think I'm going to lose my mind. I took the starter back out. Traced all wires back to the block on firewall. Saw no melted areas or broken spots. Retaped with elec tape. I layed the starter on the inner fender. I ran a separate ground wire to the housing from the battery, hooked up the other solenoid wires and tried the ign switch. Works great. Spins when I turn the key and stops spinning when I let go of key. I then re-installed the starter again and hooked up the wires. Reconnect battery cable, tried the switch and starter engages and continues to crank after I let go of the key. It did start the engine 1 time and then it just cranks all by itself when I tried the next 10 times, funny thing is it doesn't sound like the engine is trying to fire and it does not start up and keep starter engaged as you might think. It seems as if there is no spark when the starter malfunctions and once in a blue moon when it functions properly the engins starts up immeadiatley as would a fine tuned automobile. Please where do I look next? Thanks in advance for all help or ideas, Jake
  9. Thanks Rocketraider, The solenoid is new as it came on the new starter motor and seems to work just fine on the garage floor. (I did check as I realize it is possible to get a bad new part sometimes, Murphy's Law) The wire problem seems more right, since this was overcranked last year perhaps the wires got too hot and melted together? I would guess then, the small wire to "S" terminal on solenoid must be touching something?? where it shouldn't be? Can anyone tell me where each wire goes to or comes from on this curcuit? There is the Battery cable which I know goes to the battery. Then there are 2 more heavy (10 gauge?) wires on the same post with batt cable. Then 1 small wire to "S" on the solenoid. All help is appreciated, Jake
  10. I just saw your picture and those definately look like valve seal remains to me. Jake
  11. Hi J.D. Perhaps they are parts of the timing gears. If so you are probably going to be broke down along the road soon. I don't know what year they stopped making the teeth on the timing gears out of nylon or plastic but you are probably in that age group. Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Jake
  12. Here's a pisser! I have an 83 Olds Delta 88. Last year the starter motor quit on me probably from excessive cranking. After sitting at least 12 months I got a new starter motor and installed. First time I cranked it the starter motor cranked and did not stop cranking even after I turned the key off for about 20-30 seconds. Next try it worked fine and engine started right up. Since then the next 10 times it continues to crank and not start engine with the key off. I have replaced the switch on the top side of the steering column thinking the spring action was shot. No difference. I have removed the starter and tested it on the garage floor with jumper cables. Works perfect. I re-installed and it continues to function ABnormally. Any help is greatly appreciated. Jake
  13. Thanks very much, It sounds like you know your Windsors. This is a Dartline model. What does "forward look" mean?? The engine number is on front ledge ahead of the galley cover. 58W27400. I guess that makes this a 354 Polyspherical engine (Spitfire on valve covers). The VIN is LCI 24648 or LC1 24648. Are these huge cars worth much $$$. I paid $1500. It is complete but will need quite a bit of work, including brake and trans and interior work. May be easeir to just swap in a known good trans? The body will be the easy part on this project, for a change. What value if in very good condition? I don't do frame off resto's. Just a ballpark so I don't get carried away on this. Thanks, Jake
  14. Unfortunately due to cicumstances beyond anyone's control I will be parting out my 81 toronado which had only 56,000 miles on it. There will be no front end body parts available unless you have an AWESOME tool set. Contact me with your wants and I'll see if I have it. Interior is dark blue velour. E-mail me direct to smith@teisprint.com with "Toro Parts" in subject line. I am in Northeast PA, zip is 18414..